Garmin 327 sticks out too far

[Esser]

So I only have one traditional "racked" avionic, the GTX327. Looking at installing this, it looks like the bezel will protrude 3/8" away from the panel. Is my only option to recess the tray away from the panel? I would have to install a wider flanged piece of angle then what was supplied with the kit.

[jrevens]

You would have to recess the tray, yes. That might make removing the unit for service a little more problematic. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do that... why would you want to? I'm assuming for a certain "look"?

[Esser]

If I install it as is, my panel will more or less be where the pink line is. I want it where the blue line is so that the black bezel is against the panel without the gap between the bezel and the tray showing.

[Dave S]

Josh,

I don't recall my Garmin Transponder being like that - might want to do a quick check to assure the the locking tab is not pointing up preventing the unit from sliding fully in.

[Esser]

Hey Dave, the pin is in correctly. It's resting flush against the tray tabs.

[Av8r3400]

Had same issue with mine. (Going from memory three years ago...)

Your lock pins are wrong. The case bottoms out in the tray and the one pin holds it in. The second pin is inside the tray.

Also check to be sure the plug in the back of the tray is correct allowing the case to go all the way in.

[Esser]

Hey Larry I'm not sure I follow what you are saying. As it is now, the bezel hits the tabs circled in pink. I've attached what the connections in the back look like. Even if I could get the bezel further back in the tray, it could only push another 1/16" into the connections.

[Dave S]

Josh,

Oh well...it was a shot in the dark:o

It appears to me that from the last photo, you may have to mount the tray a little deeper with the two tabs you circled flush with the panel.

My apologies if this isn't as helpful as I wish it was......It would be much easier if we could all be in the same room to figure it out:o

[Av8r3400]

I think the tabs circled in pink will go under the face plate.

I'm sorry I don't remember more but I had the same issue and had to rethink the whole thing and then it fit.

[Esser]

No worries everyone! Thanks for your input!

[efwd]

As Dave states.
By now you have probably cut the panel opening to allow you to slide your tray in from the front. I undercut my panel and the two tabs are what is touching the back of the panel. Only my radio fits through the panel opening.
Eddie

[jrevens]

Josh,

In your last picture, the unit appears to possibly be fully & properly seated in the tray. However, it looks like your tray may be different than mine - I also have a 327. I don't believe that mine has the 2 little tabs sticking out. Perhaps you can see what mine looks like from the following 2 pictures. My transponder is mounted above my comm radio because I prefer it that way.

[rosslr]

Hey John, Your panel looks good and you and Josh are looking dangerously close to finishing your projects! - I always follow you guys because you were both up and running and gave me great support during my build which I will always appreciate. It will be great to see you both flying.

Just a thought - have you trial fitted the two forward support struts for the top of the panel forward to make sure there is no interference with your instruments?
If not, could be worth doing.

cheers

r

[Esser]

Josh,

In your last picture, the unit appears to possibly be fully & properly seated in the tray. However, it looks like your tray may be different than mine - I also have a 327. I don't believe that mine has the 2 little tabs sticking out. Perhaps you can see what mine looks like from the following 2 pictures. My transponder is mounted above my comm radio because I prefer it that way.

Hi John,

Looks like the tray I have is an older style which may be why it's not lining up the same. I have some ideas to make it work. At the end of the day it's only for aesthetics.

Thanks Ross, I'm shooting for around May for a first flight. Gives me all winter to pick away at the daunting electrical then a couple months to tie up loose ends. Then I should have enough time to work out the kinks before heading to Oshkosh as a proud builder!

[jrevens]

...
Just a thought - have you trial fitted the two forward support struts for the top of the panel forward to make sure there is no interference with your instruments?
If not, could be worth doing.

cheers

r

I'm not sure if your question was directed at me, Ross, but I'm well beyond that point now. My panel is completely installed, windshield is in, and glareshield is trimmed & fitted. I'm trying to decide what to cover it with now.

Josh, I think you are right. My transponder tray seems to be made of a different type of metal also. Yours looks like aluminum, but mine appears to be maybe thin s.s.

[Esser]

Ross, if you were talking to I planned to move the panel support to accomdiate the tray.

John I really like your flanged panel. Eligant solution for adding rigidity and giving the glare shield something to mount to.

[David47]

John I really like your flanged panel. Eligant solution for adding rigidity and giving the glare shield something to mount to.

Totally agree with Josh. So much so that I'm going to do the same thing. Hope you don't mind me plagiarising your idea John ....

[Cherrybark]

That flanged panel does look great. Could someone with the knowledge explain how that would be formed?

[Esser]

That flanged panel does look great. Could someone with the knowledge explain how that would be formed?

On closer inspection, it looks like John added a piece of angle the whole way around.

[Cherrybark]

Think you're right Josh. Zooming way in you can pick out a seam on the left side of the top photo. And the second shows the cut wedges as it bends. If I squint real hard, it there may be solid rivets mounting the flange. Always nice to get a glimpse of the details on John's build. Then he'll drop by and, "Aw shucks, just an idea I was messing with." Must be all of the experience and patience built up from his Thorp build.

[jrevens]

Thanks, Ross, Josh, David and Carl. Yes, the flange is simply a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x 0.063 extruded 2024-T3 angle. It is notched to make it easy to make a smooth bend and remain flat, and attached with a little Hysol & countersunk solid aluminum rivets. I made short work of the notches by setting it up on my little milling machine and using a small (1/8") end mill. It's a totally unnecessary mod of course, and does add a little weight to the panel. On the plus side, it adds rigidity and a nice way to attach the glare shield, as pointed out by Josh. I drilled the evenly spaced holes at the start, and will use only the ones that prove to be necessary to help the glare shield lay down nicely. I'll insert Tinnerman nuts in the ones I use. I'm always flattered when someone uses something they saw that I had done... and this is certainly nothing very original, anyway.