Rib Lacing and Laker Leading Edge

[Cherrybark]

As soon as I say this someone will point to a thread with the answers, but I searched and read the rib lacing threads and didn't find any discussion of stitching with a LLE. I am curious how others have handled this step.

1. Proper rib lacing, wrapping both the top and bottom cap strips, then stopping at the LLE on the top side. Continuing the bottom rib stitching but only wrapping around the cap strip.

2. Drill holes in the LLE and continue tradition rib lacing right up to the leading spar.

I think I favor the first option over drilling holes in the LLE but am certainly open to suggestions.

Meanwhile, I didn't do a good job of planning the spacing of the standoff blocks that secure the #2 ribs to the bottom of the fuel tank. No matter how I try to lay out a nice lacing pattern, one of the blobs of Hysol on this rib gets in the way. I wound down work this evening going back and forth between trying to remove a bit of the Hysol or simply gluing a piece of lacing cord for that single stitch and moving on.

[Esser]

It's been done both ways but I went with option one myself. I didn't even continue lacing the bottom under the LLE. No negative pressures under there.

[HighWing]

I did exactly as you propose in 1. My leading edge is aluminum as it was pre-Laker. I ran the reinforcing tape forward to where it would extend if laced all the way. I also glued some lacing cord in places to retain the "look" in some areas. Being a Kitfox old-timer, I remember well the days before routine rib lacing. My guess is that is the primary reason for the original 1 inch wide capstrips - much more Polytac than is typical.

[efwd]

I didn't stitch the ribs under the tank, just those short segments aft of the tank. Looks Fine. Oratex glue is going to more than do the job. Just finished stitching the final wing. My pinked tapes get applied Saturday. :)

[rosslr]

Hi Carl,

i drilled a stitched right up to the forward edge - easy to do and looks good. Not sure if it adds any strength or not to the LLE and fabric but it was so easy to do it seemed silly not to.

r

[Cherrybark]

Thank you all for the quick replies. Stopping at the LLE was going to be an easy decision until Ross posted how easy it was to continue to the leading spar. At least it's a decision based more on looks than necessity.

As Eddie pointed out, Oratex glue on a 1" cap strip is pretty much a belt and suspenders situation. But rib lacing on a "sticks and rags" taildragger is so traditional, not a hard job, and there is that extra security.

[jiott]

I don't have the Laker edge, but if I did I think I would drill lacing holes up to the spar. One caution about drilling thru the fabric; I have heard of more than one case where the drill bit grabs a thread of the dacron fabric and in a wink it pulls it, making an ugly track for quite a ways in the surrounding fabric. The easy solution is to first melt a small hole thru the fabric with a small soldering iron or woodburning iron, then drill thru the underlying material.

[Esser]

I don't know, I wouldn't want chunks of mud on my leading edge that big. Function over form in my opinion. I also think my smooth leading edge looks fantastic so I have form and function in my eyes

[mr bill]

You pays your money and makes your choice.

[rainbird]

I drilled and rib laced to the fwd spar. It was easer to rib lace thru the LLE. No problems pulling threads while drilling holes. I had the pink on the fabric before drilling. I didn't drill holes thru the gas tanks to rib lace. It just didn't seem right. When punching or drilling holes put the reinforcing tape down first then make the holes close to the tap. If the hole touches the tape it will pucker when you lace.

[Cherrybark]

Nice tip on having the reinforcing tape in place before punching lacing holes. Thanks for posting that

[N213RV]

I did option #2. I also added 'false' rib stitching over the fuel tank so I had a nice uniform look across the wing from tip to root....

In addition, I rib stitched all flying surfaces. It gives the plane a more vintage look.

Your plane, your choice. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

[jiott]

My personal opinion, but I think rib lacing is especially important on any concave surface. Under the wing, including under the tank, is one of those places (the only concave wing or tail surface on a Kitfox). A few of our forum members have had that area pop loose during the final 350 degree fabric shrink. If that is the case, then I would want that rib laced for flying. Supposedly no negative pressure under there, but during turbulence??

[efwd]

That's a thought Jim. I'm resting comfortable on the statement in the manual that states that with the 1" wide cap strip the lacing is not required but most people do the lacing and it is recommended by both Kitfox and Poly fiber. How do you feel about the fact that the top surface of the tank is not glued to the surface of the tank and there are no laces on the number 3 rib at the edge of that tank? That surface is exposed to some of the most intense forces too, with the prop wash added to that area. I suppose the application of Poly Fibers Poly Brush after shrinking does some adhering to the tank but I guess you don't put it on the tank prior to the fabric going on? I have glued my Oratex over the entire tank as well as all ribs, including the false ribs top and bottom. Im very confident my top surface is secure and hope that the multiple glued contact points on the bottom of the tank do the job. Steve Wittman comes to mind.:( Always appreciate your input and help with this stuff, keep it coming.

[DesertFox4]

Eddie, yes we do coat the fuel tank top sides with polybrush before covering. Then when brushing the first polybrush layer on the new fabric, the mek based polybrush will re-soften the polybrush applied to the tank tops and meld them together. If you have ever tried peeling a properly applied poly fabric from a surface that large, you learned quickly how effective the polyfiber system really is. It is almost permanent unless you re-activate the polybrush with mek before attempting to remove fabric fom an airframe. Following the Polyfiber manual and the recommendations in your Kitfox build manual will give you real peice of mind that your aircraft's fabric will have a 20 year plus useful life.

[efwd]

Thanks Steve. I went to bed figuring I must not have read something right. Being that Im not using Poly Fiber I didn't concern myself but expected a reply from someone straitening me out. It was line 8 on the bottom fabric installation. I looked back just now and saw what I had read and understand now. Thanks
Eddie

[jiott]

I did rib lace the #3 rib. Left a small gap between the edge of the tank flange and the rib cap strip.

[efwd]

Dang you didnt miss a thing. I was afraid I would have compromised the seal of the tank after I did my leak test. Too lazy to retest it. I was uncomfortable trimmining some of the tank edge off during the time of install and as much as I wanted to, ( to give me more room between rib 1 and the inboard end of the tank) I didnt want to trash a tank. So much to learn. I may do a second build and at least then I will be able to anticipate whats next in the process. I should be much more comfortable next time. I want a Radial next time.😁

[Cherrybark]

I did Hysol the tank to the #3 rib but, looking at the width of the flange on the tank, am pretty comfortable drilling holes for lacing.

This would be easier the second time around. Didn't WarEagle help several through their builds before starting his, "Arlington 2010 Reserved Grand Champion"? Smart cookie

[jrevens]

I did Hysol the tank to the #3 rib but, looking at the width of the flange on the tank, am pretty comfortable drilling holes for lacing.

That's what I did, Carl.