3m™ scotch-weld™ epoxy adhesive 2216 b/a

[Maverick]

I just purchased a series 5 kit that is 23 years old and all of the chemicals long ago dried out and were disposed of. I need to order epoxy but, I don't remember from my last series 5 kit just how much was in the kit. I thought it was a pint but that doesn't seem like enough. It's been 15 years since that build. Can anyone tell me how much I need to get?

[PapuaPilot]

I didn't do my complete build, but I would start with a set of the pint cans.

[jiott]

You will need at least 1qt each of both parts of the Hysol.

[avidflyer]

The nice thing about the scotch weld is it seems to last forever. The Hysol I bought was getting grainy after a year, and I have some scotchweld that is 25 years old, and it still works fine. Granted, I don't use it on structural parts on the plane, but any time it's something that wont kill me if it fails I use up the old stuff and save my new stock. I caught my side view mirror on the mail box one day a few years back. Think is was winter time so the plastic would have been cold and brittle. I glued the pieces back together and it's still on that car. The mix ratio on the scotch weld is kind of funky, but I have a small scale that will weigh up to about 5 oz. in grams. I put a plastic cup on the scale, zero it out, add one part of the epoxy, then do a calculation to tell me how much of the other to add. Watch the scale as I add it, stop when I get there. Mix it good and go. I was just using a bunch of T 88 epoxy the last few days, and it worked real good the same way on that. JImChuk

[jrevens]

I've used 2216 also, for several projects over the years. In my opinion it is a superior product - more highly "refined" - than the Hysol 9460. It has some potential disadvantages - the mixing ratio is a little less convenient, it seems to be a little less viscous, and it it more expensive. I could be wrong, but I suspect that price was the primary driving factor in the change to the Hysol by Kitfox at the time, but it may have been the ease of mixing. As Jim said, it doesn't "granulate" like the Hysol and also seems to have more flexibility when cured. I think the strength numbers may look a little better also. It's good stuff.

[jiott]

I have used "granulated" Hysol by warming it up and stirring thoroughly. Seems to be fine then. I will admit I haven't used any of it for critical structural joints.

[jrevens]

I have used "granulated" Hysol by warming it up and stirring thoroughly. Seems to be fine then. I will admit I haven't used any of it for critical structural joints.

I have too, Jim. I didn't want anyone to get the wrong idea... I used the Hysol exclusively on my Kitfox, but I am familiar with 3M 2216 also.

[Maverick]

What is the full Hysol designation. A google search came up with a gazillion different Hysol products. I was hoping to find a site that would allow me to do a side by side comparison.

Thanks to those of you have responded. This group is a real asset to a builder. Wish it had been around when I built my first KF. :D

[jiott]

Hysol 9460

[Maverick]

Thanks for the discussion. Reading up on both brands, reading your comments, and my past experience with the brand, I chose the 3M (1 qt).:D

[Maverick]

I decided to go with the 3M. Thanks for your help!