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Dale Warnix
08-19-2009, 03:41 PM
I am having a problem with my motor climbing to over 180 deg when climbing out. once I level out it falls back below 180 with reduced powerI It is a type 4 witrh a 582 with a standard rad under the floor.I did not have this problem until the temp rose to the 90 deg. I read the threads with little help.I first reset the prop to 6200 st while tied to a tree .The ex pipe was short and seemed to exit right in front of the rad so it was extended several inches .I also drained and removed the lines and rad to be sure they were clear.When refilling the rad I used 50-50 mix and added
the super colling additive that is supposed to drop the temp about 10 deg.I got no results.I checked the water pump for any damage and looked to see if I had a thermostat..by now I am running out of ideas so I built another rad from a new heater core from a ford and mounted it in line with the lower rad .It was mounted just in front of the carbs.the lines run from the pump to it and then on down to the old rad.None of this helped at all.I didnt mess with the carbs because the motor has about 80 hrs and I hear that if you have to rejet veryfar from stock something is wrong elsewhere.Can any one give me any tips on what to try next.

SkyPirate
08-19-2009, 04:14 PM
what are the jet sizes in your carbs? did you order the engine and give your elevation elevation,..average summer and winter temps,..to put the right jets in to occomidate for the 2 differences ..elevation and temp.
I'm assuming you have bings? if you do pull the jets by removing the bowl on the carb,..it takes a special bing wrench to do this,..but sometimes you can file down the edges of a socket the right size ,..if my memory serves me ,..its 11/32,..but don't hold me to that..
also ..check the cables to see that both carbs are working the same together ,.. opening and closing in time.
are you mixing your gas or are you using the reservoir on the firewall?
is it a blue head or gey head 582?
if it's a grey head ,..they had a cooling problem and offer a quick fix thru rotax.
are you using an in line temp sensor,..a CHT or EGT,..

my 582 blue head ..I had summer jets and winter jets single radiator mounted under belly,.reservior injected oil. engine temps stayed pretty much normal until air temperature changes , then changing the jets in April and Oct
my field elevation was 545 ASL average summer temp 80 degrees average winter temp was 30 degrees

hope this helps

Chase

Dale Warnix
08-19-2009, 04:42 PM
my engine is a grey head 582. It is using the standard oil injection system, I have never done anything with the carbs since I installed the engine. I will get the tools and rejet it richer, I guess. It does have bing carbs. you mentioned there was a quick fix from Rotax. Tel me about it.
It maybe something as simple as carb rejeting and sinkronation ( I'm a horrible speller) the carbs. Will I need any other tools other than the socket for the jet? Sounds like you have been thru this before.

SkyPirate
08-19-2009, 05:37 PM
Rotax has a new water pump set up for the grey head 582,..you should be able to get it thru rotax ,,I've seen some on E bay ,..I bought the carb jet tool on E bay myself,..$5.00 or close to that.
if you've got literature on the motor,..check to see when de carbonizing time period is ,..to do this you pull the heads and clean off the top of the pistons .. and pull the jugs to check for carbon in the ring seats,..even being only 80 hours if the mixture due to unsyncronized carbs,..one cylinder can be more carboned up then the other.

if you don't have literature on the engine ,,rotax web site has info.
when you get tired of messing with the 2 cycle ..the model 4 fly's great with a 912 ,..and 912S,..no more 2 cycle miseries :)
or find a blue head 582,..much better motor.

don't get me wrong ..the 2 cycles weight to HP is awesome
I had a model 2 with 582 blue head I flew for a couple years ,..just had to stay on top of the service schedule.

Chase

SkyPirate
08-19-2009, 05:50 PM
one more thing ..check on "sea foam" fuel additive,..some swear by it ..it decarbs the pistons adding time between tearing down the head..
carbon built up in the ring seats makes the engine run hotter because it doesn't give the ring room to expand and contract due to heat,..DO NOT use an electric wire wheel to clean the ring seats,..you'll mess up the outer edges of the ring seat making the ring prone to twist and eventually cracking then it's replace piston jugs and rings time.
you can pick up a ring seat/groove cleaning tool at Auto Zone ..O rielly's ..Etc.
it all sounds a bit intimidating ..but after a couple times ..you can do it in your sleep. it's really not hard,..if you do remove the rings..have some tape ready ..as you remove each compression ring ..keep the top facing up ..put some tape on the top and lay them in the order they came off top to bottom ..put it back in the same attitude with tape up side up
the oil rings aren't so critical but good practice to follow the same steps

tools;

ring compressor
ring groove cleaner,..
torque wrench


Chase

Robin G
08-19-2009, 08:36 PM
Dale, I recently installed a new 582 blue head in my Mod 3. I have also had problems with temps. The coolent temp has finally settled down, but I did need to replace the gage. After testing it I found that it was off as much as 12 degrees at the higher temps. I also diluted the coolent mix from 50/50 to 30 coolent and 70 water. After the hot weather subsides, I will bring it back to 50/50 for the winter, but the water is a better heat transfer and changing the mix did help bring down the temp. I also changed the jets, but found that the engine tended run a bit rough and upon checking the plugs, saw that the richer mix was the cause. My temp problem now is EGT. When the engine is jetted to run the smoothest, the EGT climbs above 1,200 after I level out from a climb and take the load off the engine. In a climb at 6,000 RPM I have no problem, but when I nose her over to level out and build speed, the temp immediately goes to between 1,250 and 1,300. When I throttle back to about 5,600, the EGT comes back into the green but that makes for a slow cruise. Again, changing the jets makes a difference, but it also affects the smooth operation of the engine. Haven't figured that one out yet, but my ROTAX mechanic warns me about running above 1,200 -1,250 on the EGT so I would like to find a solution. Keep me posted.

robin g

Mnflyer
08-22-2009, 08:55 PM
Hi Dale, that was a problem I had also when I had a 582 installed, in fact I would seldom fly when it was 85*F or more, one thing I did was to fabricate 1" spacers and install on the rad mounts to lower it in to the airstream, this helped, going to less than 50/50 coolant mix also helped some. The lower cowl must be completely flat / level with the bottom on the fuselage if it isn't it will deflect the air below the rad causing overheating. The 582 blue head does not cool any better than the gray head, it does eliminate the air lockink / water pump cavitaing, and has an improved seal on the WP shaft but there is an improved seal for the gray head which yours most likely has as gthe improved seal came out 15 yrs ago. Good luck.
I cured my heating problems by installing a HKS that fixed many things.