Oratex matching paint codes?

[TahoeTim]

Has anyone sourced matching paint for their Oratex project? (other than Oratex paint)

I have started my covering and want to plan ahead. I am using white and Fokker Red.

Thanks

[efwd]

I will be using Oratex fabric as well. As Lars has stated, getting Oratex paint can be cost prohibitive due to shipping and environmental fees. Interested in Oratex paint? Maybe you might be interested in pooling our funds to reduce the shipping Hit? Lars mentioned this too me but nothing more than in passing.
Eddie

[Esser]

What kind of paint do they use? Urethane?

[efwd]

Sorry Josh, I am unable to get on the betteraircraftfabric.com web address from work for some reason. I don't remember what it is but its not available in North America I guess. Fee's and such are associated for those of us who want to contaminate the continent. I guess money talks.
Eddie

[Danzer1]

Oracolor is a 2 part paint (base + hardener) - so guess is it's a urathane.

Why not go to a PPG auto paint supplier and have them color match with their spectrophotometer? They're pretty accurate nowadays and you can select the paint type of your choice, depending on the material you are painting.

Greg

[jrevens]

Matching the Oratex color with another brand paint should be no problem. My understanding is that Oratex is compatible with most paint types. I'm using a PPG acrylic urethane for my fiberglass & metal parts, & small areas around the juncture between fabric & fittings, etc. The color, gloss, & durability matches the Kitfox powdercoat perfectly. The white Oratex is easy... it's really "white" like the powdercoat. Just take a small fabric sample to an automotive paint store & have them match it. Chances are the paint will be glossier than the fabric. With my airplane I don't care about that too much, but you can add a flattening agent to the paint to match the look more closely. If you're really into avoiding nasty paint fumes you can check with Stewart Systems. They have matched the red color for Gary G., another builder on this site... maybe he'll chime in. If you're going to use paint on the fabric itself, other than small touch-up areas, be sure it is flexible enough & right for fabric use. Some have actually used latex house paint on Oratex also. I saw an example that looked like crap, but he figured it out & it ended up looking pretty nice.

[rocketman2tm]

I ended up getting some Limco single stage paint for my flaperons that was color match by a local store. When they color matched, they had some problems because the fabric is somewhat transparent. What I would suggest is to fold the fabric over so you have two layers, which is pretty much what you're going to have on the airplane anyway.

[Esser]

Just make sure you get aviation paint if you have PPG or another company match it cause you don't want it to crack. I think PPGs aviation line is called Densothane. I also used Endura Aviation and they can match any colour you need with over 40,000 colours in their system.

[TahoeTim]

Thanks guys. I guess it's not that big of a deal to color match. I'll have to get up to speed on which paint to use on the ailerons and cowl. One reason I chose Oratex is because I'm not skilled at paint. I guess I am stuck learning it anyway. :mad:

[jrevens]

Believe it or not, there's a guy in Texas who has covered several super cubs with Oratex, & actually covered the cowl & other parts with it too. Seems like it would be pretty difficult to make it look good, at least for me.

[TahoeTim]

I thought about that. i would be very interested in covering the cowl. I might try the wingtips since they are smaller and less risk if i mess up. if i had guts, id try to cover the ailerons :D

I am trying to figure out a couple of processes. i understand that application goes: edges, shrink, tapes. But, can you do a surface at a time? For example on the fuselage, can I complete the bottom before doing the sides? I am using John's pattern and I think it should go vertical fin, turtle deck, bottom, and finally the sides last.

I'm also seeing conflicting info about glue drying time. I see 24 hours to a couple of hours. I guess it all depends.

Its a challenging and fun puzzle to work out.

[jrevens]

Tim,

I started on the bottom first, then the sides , and finished with the top. The only reason I know of for doing the bottom last is because the bottom is the most vulnerable to damage, and if you had to re-cover a whole section (like the bottom), it would be somewhat easier if it was the last piece installed.

Glue drying time is variable depending on temperature and humidity. When it turns clear, with no milkiness, I think it's good to go. I would wait for an additional hour or 2 minimum when I did mine. Overnight is good, but it can be ready to go after just a few hours (or, you can wait for a month if you want to).

[colospace]

Out of town right now, so I'm not staying on top of the posts daily. I wanted to use Stewart Systems so I didn't have to worry for my health or have my neighbors after me. After several trials, they matched my Oratex Fokker Red pretty well I think. I did use their flattener too on the red. I am using their bright white as well and it matches my powder coat well. I am consistently getting a uniform orange peel is my only issue, though that may actually make an even better match to the fabric. When I get to my wingtips,spinnervous and lift struts, I will try thinning further.

[Danzer1]

Hey Gary,

May be preaching to the choir here, but it may help someone else.

The most common cause of orange peel is inadequate spray pressure at the gun. Usually because either the gauge is not at the gun or the pressure is read static (without the trigger pulled). The pressure required is when flowing (trigger pulled) to get full atomization.

2nd is spray distance and speed.

3rd cause is wrong tip size.

4th is poor gun or not cleaned well enough.

Thinning may help, but I'd check the rest 1st.

It is much harder out here in Denver to get everything right due to our dry climate and wide temperature swings. And so, what might be right today, might be totally wrong tomorrow.

I always check all the above and then test spray with minimal thinner and add if I need to until it flows right.

Greg

[colospace]

Finally back home. Greg your point about pressure may be worth playing with when I get back to painting (trying to get landing light provisions done to my wing tips). My gun is cleaned regularly and I'm using the recommended tip, but the gun is stamped for 20 psi max so that is what I've been using. This has worked just fine in the past for spraying automotive acrylics, but I don't think it would hurt anything to try bumping up the pressure a bit higher than that.

[TJay]

Finally back home. Greg your point about pressure may be worth playing with when I get back to painting (trying to get landing light provisions done to my wing tips). My gun is cleaned regularly and I'm using the recommended tip, but the gun is stamped for 20 psi max so that is what I've been using. This has worked just fine in the past for spraying automotive acrylics, but I don't think it would hurt anything to try bumping up the pressure a bit higher than that.


I'll agree with that also, turn that pressure up, and maybe close the volume a bit. if it appears sandy while spraying then turn the volume of paint up till it goes away,

[nemesisnxt]

Has anyone sourced matching paint for their Oratex project? (other than Oratex paint)

I have started my covering and want to plan ahead. I am using white and Fokker Red.

Thanks

If you decide to paint, try Industrial Finishes on the corner of Mira Loma and Longely in Reno. Sometimes the codes in the log books don't match the aircraft paint. We take a panel with the color needed and they'll whip up a batch in less than a day. Just take In a small piece of scrap covering.

Which weight of Oratex are you using?

-Shua