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bholland
08-06-2016, 07:25 PM
Well long story short I knocked my flaperon off the stand and even though I caught it, it still hit the floor hard enough to damage it. It appears the only damage was on the outboard end and it was bent slightly up between the last hinge and the end at the leading edge. I would appreciate any input on first, should I replace it? I called for a price on a new one and it was very reasonable, but to crate and ship it was almost as expensive as the part. I have tried to straighten it and what you see in the pictures is about as good as I can get it. Can I just Hysol the small indentions by the hinge or what would be the best way to handle trying to make it smooth again? I was also wondering how everyone is keeping the area inside the hinge area from corroding. I live near the Ocean so corrosion is an issue. The two ends I have anodized before closing and I will anodize the inside of the hinge pin that runs the length of the flaperon. I was thinking just anodize each hinge area as well. Thanks for any advise!!

bholland
08-07-2016, 03:44 AM
Sorry meant to say Alodine not anodize.

Esser
08-07-2016, 06:55 AM
You could go either way. Some guys will tell you just to replace it. Since its at the outboard end I would think there wouldn't be any damage that would effect the flaperon as a whole. It looks pretty good in the pictures. You could fill in the small dents with superfil and sand it out. The superfil will sand much better and is lighter. It's meant for body work. You will need to do a bit more prep work when you paint so it matches. (Prime sand prime).

As for corrosion protection, I would just get liberal with oil in there every annual.

jiott
08-07-2016, 04:00 PM
I would be quite leery about putting Alodine in the hinge area. It may foul the hinge bearings (nylon) and there is no way to get in there and clean up the bearings. As Esser says, just keep them well oiled with LPS1.

Dave S
08-07-2016, 05:40 PM
I have to agree with Jim - compatibility with the foam ribs bonded inside the flaperons would have to be known before experimenting with any chemical treatment. It's an unknown quantity; however, the LPS 1 is recommended for use on the bearings which means it is compatible with the construction of the flaperon and it is a pretty good corrosion blocker.

bholland
08-08-2016, 06:01 PM
Thanks for all the advice everyone. I really appreciate it!

TahoeTim
08-09-2016, 12:57 PM
I made my blocks using the full size paper template. I spray glued it to the block and cut it out.

you did find the template, right?

efwd
08-09-2016, 05:28 PM
TahoeTim, wonder if you were talking to me regarding cutting out my blocks in another thread? If so, now that you mention it I do believe I recall seeing those templates. I finished cutting them out today. I may try making another pair if I locate the templates you mention and see if they come out a bit improved from the ones I made. Thx
Eddie

jiott
08-09-2016, 10:48 PM
Don't stress too much about the blocks fitting perfectly the profile of the flaperons. The critical thing is that the chord line of the flaperon aligns with the split line of the blocks. If you have to pad some areas with duct tape, etc. thats OK. Also, the blocks do have to come together and touch, without denting the flaperon.

efwd
08-09-2016, 10:53 PM
Thanks Jim
No matter how small the advice please continue. It's much appreciated since I hadn't considered duct tape.
Eddie