Stabilizer Rib at 34 1/2"

[Cherrybark]

Looking at the picture in the manual, the horizontal stabilizer rib at 34 1/2" should, or might be, flush with one of the metal ribs. My layout of the listed dimensions has the rib 3/4" inboard of the metal rib. The corresponding elevator rib lays neatly along a supporting metal tube.

I realize the manual drawings might not be perfectly up to date. The stated measurements clearly state 34 1/2" and the ribs are nicely spaced. But, with this wonderful resource of builders, it seems silly not to ask. Am I putting too much into the drawing and the 34 1/2" is the correct placement?

Note, the ribs in the photo are just laying loosely near their positions.

[efwd]

I did mine per the instructions. My rib lays about an inch away as yours does. If you don't put it there then It's going to look funny out of line with the elevator rib In My opinion. Non structural, not a problem.
Eddie.

[jiott]

I remember the same dilemma, but can't be exactly sure what I did. My best recollection is that I installed the ribs per the specified dimensions to give nice even spacing and good line-up stabilizer to elevator. Then I believe I glued in some small wood blocks to fill in the gaps between those ribs that were close to a metal rib to give it more stiffness.

Don't forget to add the plywood stiffeners to each rib (not necessary on the ones glued to a metal rib) on both the stab and elevator. I didn't get enough stiffener material with my kit to do this, so had to go by some ply from the hobby shop and make some more. It is very important to do, because when you shrink the fabric (especially on the elevator) it pulls so hard that it slightly bows in the trailing edge tube on the elevator and will try to buckle the unstiffened wood ribs.

[colospace]

My recollection is that anywhere a wooden rib was close to but not against a metal "rib", I bonded a small tab/piece of scrap ply between them to stabilize the wooden rib.
Like Eddie said, you REALLY want to have your stab and elevator ribs aligned with each other or it will really look weird after covering.
I've been enjoying your build posts as it brings back memories (though some what painful when they highlight how long it is taking me). Getting closer all the time though.

[Cherrybark]

Thanks for the quick replies. The measurements give neat, fairly even spacing so I'll follow their layout. The manual mentions taking care to keep the matching stabilizer / elevator pairs lined up for appearances. That's the sort of detail I likely would not have thought of until doing the covering.

The ribs were very close to perfectly size so very little trimming is required.

[TahoeTim]

Like others, I put a horizontal stiffener on that rib. I put it on the tube side so I could glue the stiffener to the tube. I think I had to put a wedge on the elevator rib to line it up perfectly.

I was pretty anal on them and used a t square and 5 ft rule to line the pair of ribs up to each other and perpendicular to the hinge line. I glued a stiffener to every rib that wasn't stuck to a metal brace. As I recall there weren't that many. I know I added a few ounces but I skipped a milkshake the other day. :D

hang that thing on the fuselage. It will SO much easier...

have you discovered photos of the tape trick to keep glue joints pretty?

[Cherrybark]

Gave me a laugh because I have a 5' rule and long square to mark the layout lines on blue tape as I trim. Hanging it on the fuselage, to have room under the ribs, is a good idea. Not in a big rush and will spend time being accurate and "hopefully" neat.

I've seen the tape pictures and will use a Zip-Loc bag to run the beads. I'm use to working with West System epoxy and fast cures. It's nice that Hysol has a longer work time.

[TahoeTim]

Carl,
I meant the other way with the rule. butt it lengthwise against the stab ribs that are dry and line up the elevator ones perfectly.

So here is my glue technique:

attach stab and elevator to fuselage
clamp the elevator horizontal with two long sticks so it flat
mark the locations with a sharpie
wrap the tube with painters tape approx 3/8 inch from that mark on either side leaving a tail loose so the tape could be peeled easily while the hysol is still wet
set your rib between the tapes and on the mark
trowel on the hysol with a pate knife (the bag wastes too much)
smooth the joint with your finger dipped in solvent
pull tapes and admire perfect glue lines

I rarely mixed a pot of glue specifically for ribs. I had them all prepped and used extra glue from other glue jobs. I seemed to find out that 30 oz of each was a good size batch.

I still have half a can left and only a couple of things left on the fuse.

Ok, you're probably wondering what the heck a pate knife is.:D

https://www.amazon.com/Norpro-5447-Stainless-Spreaders-Silver/dp/B0000CFNE2/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1468703340&sr=1-3&keywords=pate+knife

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41TTMwkKpLL._SX425_.jpg

I started with popsicle sticks and tongue depressors. These knives are the right size, the right price, and they clean up in a second. They are strong enough to stir your mix. (I had to take a heat gun to my glue to get it soft in Tahoe at 30 degrees. My set time was two days so that was a plus.)

[Cherrybark]

I'll have to admit, a pate knife looks like the perfect tool for stirring and playing with epoxy. Our mail lady is going to wear a path between Amazon and our door.

Thanks for the instruction summary. I also liked John Pitkin's idea to use a piece of cut milk jug to shield the rib while applying epoxy.

The stabilizer and elevator went on the fuselage today.

[efwd]

Keep going Carl! By the time I finish this Hawaii trip, one week of work and Two weeks on my Oshkosh Vacation with the boys you should be caught up to me and I can just read your posts and follow along as you've shed light on a couple things already that I wish I had been enlightened about. Lol
Eddie

[Cherrybark]

Eddie, I think I see your problem. You need to hurry and get old enough to retire! Then you only have yard work, house maintenance and other chores to consume your time.

[mr bill]

Retirement has not helped me much. I've been building mine for five years in my garage and it is almost done. I have become a putz.

[efwd]

lol Mr Bill
I'm falling into that rut a little bit myself. I've made some mistakes along the way and I hate that. All new rudder cables for example. Dang it. It starts feeling not so recreational sometimes so I start avoiding the project. The video Trent posted gets me fired up so I really like this site and frequent it often. Can't wait for Oshkosh. Carl, when you see the diagrams for the rudder cable install, pick one and go with it. You will note, the depicted colors on one page is opposite the colors on the next diagram. I got wrapped up trying to make sure I didn't mess that up and missed the fact that one was twisted a bit around the the other because I couldn't see it hiding behind the elevator push pull tube. I was not looking down from above it but from the side while sitting on the floor.

[mr bill]

I did my rudder cables twice also. I stepped on the pedal too hard and the swaging let go. That was actually not all bad. It caused me to go out and buy the proper swaging tool. $260 at some of the aircraft supply places, but $37 at Lowes. See you at Oshkosh, but I don't know what day, depends on weather. I live not far away, so I just drive up.

[TahoeTim]

I did my cables some months ago. If I recall correctly John sent me an additional drawing. Once you wrap your head around the fact that the pilot cables are complete to the rudder without a break. The pass cables simply clamp to the pilot set which I find very safe.

[efwd]

Hey Carl
thought I would offer you something before you pass me up. Today I fabricated my Flapperon outboard end caps from balsa wood. $20 for a three foot long 4x4 from Aircraft spruce. fortunately I can drive to pick it up. Anyhow, they were very easy. I didn't like the foam that I used on the top of the vertical tail but I have left it since its in. Thought I would try Balsa wood. I cut down the board to give me the appropriate size. I placed it against the end of the flapperon and tapped it with a malet. After cutting it out I drew a line down along the cord line to indicate where to end the sanding. I first used a dremel tool 1/2 inch wide sanding disk and gently sanded down the 1/2 inch part that slips inside the flapperon. When using the band saw dont forget to leave the material that has the impression so that the wood doesn't push all the way into the flapperon. Cut just outside the impression. I then used the belt sander and went to work just sanding away the excess material stopping along that cord line that I had marked. I tried not to ever roll the block over totally level to avoid sanding away the lip that keeps it from sliding into the end of the flapperon.I think these came out looking like I purchased them from someplace. Now I need someone to advise me on how to stiffen up Balsa Wood. I need a way to keep it from denting easily.
Eddie

[Cherrybark]

Those look very nice Eddie. Another example of how useful a band saw can be. Let's see... Father's day is gone. Birthday isn't till April. Shoot.

[Dusty]

To make balsa less succeptable to bruising try using a very thin ca glue

[Esser]

For the flapperons I bought the plastic tips kitfox supplies. Well worth the cost and sturdy

[Floog]

After I had painted the whole airplane, I found out the rudder was an inch taller than the vertical stab when I mated the two! So I made a balsa tip for the vertical stab. I used Hysol to attach the piece to the 'roughed up' Aerothane. I made the tip about 1/8" undersize and used Hysol to build and strengthen the surface. Superfilled, finish sanded, and brush painted. Now you know about the ONLY mistake on my plane. Yeah, right.....:-)

[Cherrybark]

What a beautiful, glossy red! And nicely secured pinked tapes.

[Floog]

Thanks, Carl. That's actually (J-5) Cruiser Orange. It's on the Poly Fiber color chart. Incidently, with 780 hours on the ship now, no one has noticed the repair on the tail! Keep up the great work and make it FUN! I love to follow the progress..

[efwd]

Oh yeh. I forgot the fact that the catalog has the flapperon tips available for $35/pr. plus shipping. Thats not a bad deal. But, I had fun anyhow.
Eddie

[jiott]

I agree with Floog, it is really fun to follow the progress of others. I originally thought that after finishing my SS7 I would probably be done with following this forum, unless I had a question about something. Turns out I am hooked on it and check in about once a day. I doubt I will ever build another plane (having too much fun flying now) but by continuing with this forum I can relive the building process which was very enjoyable to me.

[rosslr]

And thanks for staying active Jim! It the guys like you on this site, who have a great technical backgrounds, that add soo much and help out when the less technical amongst us get a little out of out depth.

I liked your story about missing the fairing on top of the vertical stab Floog! that would have came as a bit of a shock on assembly!

And EFWD, I did the same with Balsa - I think that was after the guys on this site suggesting it - I tried shaping the foam but it was messy.
Enjoying your build too!

cheers