Fuel Fitting

[efwd]

Hello Gentleman.
Wondering how you all might rectify this. My fuel fitting is pressed up against the #1 rib. Leaving it like this renders it a permanent install and I will never be able to adjust it should it develop a leak. I see three ways I might correct it. Tap the hole in the tank a bit deeper. God forbid I screw that up and go too deep. Honestly, it most likely wouldn't do the job on its own. The elbow would likely still not clear the Rib web should I need to rotate. I'm thinking the fabric may even prohibit the full rotation, Im not sure. Second would be to trim an eighth inch off the outboard flange of the tank and push the tank outboard. The third would be to trim out some rib web as well as notch the rib capstrip. Maybe a bit of all three. My other tank is fine. I will try now to add Pics. Sorry, Two of the pics are turned 90 degrees again.

[Esser]

I had the same issue. Kitfox has a solution to this problem involving a banjo bolt setup. I have resigned myself to cutting off the fitting when it's time to inspect and replacing the setup to Kitfox's new one.

I also moved my tanks outboard as far as possible and cut out the bottom of the rib so I could rotate it out as far as possible.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsaa1212cb.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsaa1212cb.jpg.html)

[Dave S]

Eddie,

See attached photo. I felt it was essential to be able to unscrew the fitting for future maintenance reasons to get at the finger strainer and fitting. I used an aluminum backer to support the fabric much like what is used around the lift strut bracket attach point - then fabricated a small aluminum cover for this access point. Don't recall where the elbow came from but it may have been a local auto parts store.

Three things. 1) The fitting I used seems to have a lower profile. 2) As Esser mentioned, there is some wiggle room to push the tank outboard as far as possible & a little trim on the rib can be used 3) Check to see if there is enough room to unscrew the elbow enough to remove it after making alterations.

[colospace]

I also moved my tanks as far outboard as rib 3 allowed and trimmed the outboard flange on rib 1. I made access cover pieces and installed the inner reinforcing pieces prior to attaching the fabric. I will be painting the outer covers to match the fabric and then sticking them in a bag somewhere to use if I ever need to cut the fabric for access to the fitting.

[Dave S]

Gary - Nice job on the inspection plates!

[efwd]

Thanks you guys. I wish my finger strainer screwed in as far as Dave's does. I was a little disappointed with how inconsistent the ports were drilled out by the tank manufacturer. I have at least one barbed fitting that nearly made it to the bottom of the threads before it snugged up, while others left a whole bunch of threads exposed as the finger strainer does.
I already have a pretty significant gap on the inboard edge of the tank and rib #1, and if I should trim any of the flange off the outboard edge of the tank in order to push the tank outboard, its only going to get larger. Did any of you trim a bit off the tank? The flange has at least an inch of space that I could work from. I would only need to remove, what, maybe 1/4 inch maybe less.
Eddie

[Dave S]

Eddie,

I'd be real reluctant to take much off of the tank lip. A person could do that being aware that there is some potential for a leak depending on how far back the lip is bonded well. For sure I would pressure test the tank according to the build manual again after any trimming on the tank. Might be worth considering cautiously running a tap to deepen the threads for the finger a bit if you have plenty of exposed thread on the finger strainer when it is seated currently. Often it seems we can add up small changes from more than one place to get the desired result.

Forgot to mention - looking back at your photos, it appears you have some space between the butt rib abd # 1 rib - if the #1 rib is not bonded to the spar yet - I'd consider moving it more inboard. I used 5 sheets of 20# paper as a spacer to simulate the thickness of the fabric which goes over the lip of the #1 rib - fabric doesn't take much room and I have had no issues with butting the rib close to the adjacent butt rib.

Keep at it, you'll get it solved,

[jiott]

I did a combination of 3 things: moved the tank outboard some, slightly deepened the tank thread, and trimmed the #1 rib flange and web. For an access panel I just used the standard round ones that came with the kit, but have not cut thru the fabric yet until the need arises.

[efwd]

Hey Dave.
Your very observant. I have spoke with John about what happened here. I have bonded the #1 rib in. I walked away and gravity pulled the rib slightly cockeyed as the adhesive dried. The result was that the top of the capstrip was then tight up against the Butt rib with no gap and in fact was flexing a bit. On the top What you see is the 1/16th inch gap called out in the manual, ( some places slightly larger as I was using a dremel to try to open it up ). If your speaking specifically of the bottom cap strip, then I guess I will need to close it up slightly. Are these gaps not covered by anything when done. I thought that the Plexiglass will be over the top gap at least. I know I have a problem when it comes to the Flapperon bracket that will go onto the trailing edge of that rib. The rib is true front to back but I am going to have to shim up the slight tilt. It has been suggested I might bust out that rib and replace. John did feel that shimming it up would likely suffice but he left that up to me. I have no problem getting the trailing edge aluminum on it as it is but I know that bracket will be out of line if I dont shim it. My plan was to get a piece of thin birch laminate, glue it in and sand it down to level. I hate to Jerry rig anything, especially and airplane but most of the time something I find I screwed up somebody always has a fix that is exceptable and less costly in cash and time. Any advice is very welcome. I am not apposed to ripping that rib out but that then impacts the butt rib as it was placed based on the position of rib #1.

[efwd]

Thanks Dave
I would definitely do the pressure test again. I have also gone and bought the new elbow as you did. I may get away with just trimming the rib a bit once I place this elbow on. I really don't like the thought of what I would do then if I create a leak. Im sure it would be " buy a new tank." :( I also am not in favor of having an even larger gap than is present now between the tank and rib #1.
Eddie

[HighWing]

I helped a guy finish a Series 5 and he being the second owner we had some challenges. The topic of this thread was one. This is what we did. It amounted to drilling a reducer and machining the elbow to fit and then soft soldered the two together. This was then screwed into the larger reducer mated to the wing tank. We also did as Dave suggests with a plate under the fabric to accept a cover. A note on the plate under the fabric. Rans uses Polycarbonate sheet as the mounting plate. It is thick enough to accept a self tapping sheet metal screw - Panhead. It eliminates the need for Nutcerts or other fasteners and has more thread contact than an aluminum plate. I used the Polycarbonate exclusively on my more recent IV build.

During the life of my first Model IV, removing the finger strainers was a regular part of the Annual Condition Inspection and I occasionally found some stuff in there. One time it was a piece of rubber obviously from a Card Lock Pump system overhaul as I always used a Mr. Funnel during my MoGas fueling.

I didn't feel comfortable assembling as the manual suggested and Larry not being able to fairly easily remove the finger strainer for periodic inspections.

[Jfquebec]

Take a look to this swivel elbow...great product..
http://www.highflowfuel.com/c-235116-an-fittings-hoses-adapters-90-degree-swivel-male-to-npt-low-profile.html

[efwd]

Thanks Lowell
I installed the smaller elbow, and I tapped out the tank slightly and I have notched the capstrip. It ends up being just barely what is needed but it will work. Love the idea of using polycarbonate for the access. But I also am very impressed with the access cover Gary made. Not sure how people get through this without everyones support here. Thanks.
Eddie