New Kitfox owner

[inflight]

I thought it was about time I introduced myself. My name is Mark. I've been lurking here for over a year. Last August I went to Stick and Rudder and got my tailwheel endorsement as well as attending the factory fly in. Needless to say those two experiences solidified my decision to own a kitfox. Reading the forum and watching Barnstormers everyday, I was beginning to feel a bit discouraged about finding just the right airplane for me. I saw great options all over the place, Florida, New York, Texas, Washington. Living in Colorado meant that all of these options were quite a ways from me. Finally, through some googling, I found a local EAA chapter list that revealed to me two kitfox owners within a 45 min drive from where I live. I contacted them through email and one responded saying he may be interested in selling his. He built a RV and hasn't flown the Kitfox for 10 years. He had an oil issue on his last flight that had not been resolved since. Some of you may recognize the plane from this thread.

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=6926

Without being able to fly the airplane and not really knowing what the issue was we came to an agreement on a good price.

Here are photos from the first day we went and looked at it.

http://inphotography.net/sytist/clients/kitfox/

Deciding between building and buying is hard but I figured that with such a good base of an airplane, I would save a lot of time even if I had to put a whole new motor in it. So here is the day we brought her home just 4 days after seeing her for the first time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xpr-M1IGYE

Now approaching a month later, after some TLC, we fired her up for the first time in 10 years. Oh and by the way the oil leak was from the line for the remote mounted oil pressure sensor. It was not secured very well and was rubbing against part of the engine mount and gave way about 100 hours in. So everyone should check that next time they have the cowl open.

Having a spouse that is excited about this as I am is one of the coolest things I can imagine. She has been documenting this whole process and I can't thank her enough for that. So here is the first start up. WARNING: THERE IS SOME CREATIVE LANGUAGE IN THE VIDEO. I told you she is excited.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amuHhldBTNc

There are still some things that will need to be resolved before I fly it. Mostly making sure all the rubber is in good condition. And a few other little things here and there.

Sorry for the long post but it is well past due as I have garnered a lot from this awesome forum. It's part of the reason I know the kitfox is for me.

[avidflyer]

Hey, good for you. Seems like you are heading in the right direction. And it's nice to have a spouse that is supportive of the adventure as well. Mine doesn't try to stop me in any way from flying, but want's no part of it for herself. Have fun and keep the posts, pictures and videos coming. Jim Chuk

[jrevens]

That is great, Mark! Nice to see the pictures and videos, even with the wind sound. Someday, hopefully before too much longer, a couple of us builders in the Denver area (S 7 SS's) will be flying, and we'll climb over to Kremmling & see you!

[inflight]

Thanks Jim and John. One of the best parts of this whole adventure is that I'm at the airport more than I'm not. It's been a blast meeting all the guys out there. I love company, come by anytime! Pilots are good people.

[GuppyWN]

You have a Kitfox AND a Four Wheel Camper.

Not sure how I feel about that :)

[inflight]

Ha Ha. I feel pretty good about it although it will make it hard to decide how to recreate here soon. :D

[dholly]

Congrats on your new toy, looks and sounds great. It's always nice to get a bird back in the air! :)

[Floog]

Great plane, pictures, and video! Prolly way down your list but check the bolts that contain the tail wheel spring. Mine had (2) AN-3. They can break. AN-4 is better. You're gonna have a blast with your new KF!!

[HighWing]

Congratulations. The photography aspect is like the frosting on the cake - especially with the photographer/videographer on board. As a new friend, I think I would be remiss if I didn't mention one of the regular guys in our flights of five - or six - Kitfoxes over the years. His Kitfox was silver (gray) with light blue sunburst trim. Early on our group flights we would often hear a radio call saying, "Larry turn on your blinkers". He was easy to lose in the group.

[inflight]

Floog- Thanks for the heads up. I appreciate the collective knowledge on this forum. If anybody sees anything that should be rectified please let me know.

Lowell- The blue is definitely going to be hard to see in the air. It isn't the paint scheme I would have chosen myself but the paint was low on the priority list when looking for an airplane. Flying like I ride a motorcycle, as though you are invisible, and being very vigilante about see and avoid, are most important, I believe. Also, flying with the lights on all the time. Maybe someday she will get a new paint job, but not for a long time.

[Micro Mong Bldr]

Mask off around the rudder and dark blue trim - hit those areas with screaming bright orange. Same colors as the Gulf GT-40's. A good combo on the color wheel & would make you easier to see. :D

Larry

[inflight]

Larry-

That's a good idea. I'm going to have to seriously consider that option. Thanks.

[Micro Mong Bldr]

You're quite welcome!

Larry

[DesertFox4]

Mark, congrats on the purchase. Liked the video also.;)

10 years of non use concerns me but it sounds as though you are being thorough in inspecting all systems before first flight. You may have read here that Rotax recently recommended replacement of all hoses, fuel, oil, coolant, along with carb boots, motor mounts ect every five years. Many would say that may be over kill but on on aircraft that sat 10 years they should all be examined closely. Carbs cleaned, header tank drained and flushed if left with old fuel that long may be a good idea. Replace your fuel sight gauge tubing on both tanks as you could have the old sight tubes that may get brittle with age and break letting fuel enter the cockpit.
Check for service bulletins and A.D.s on yor engine that may not have been accomplished. You can join the Rotax Owners group for all the bulletins associated with your engine's serial number.
Just a few things that come to mind when thinking about your Kitfox.
Be thorough and check everything from tires and tubes to rodent infestations.
Be safe and have fun. The 6 with a 914 will be a great performer.

[inflight]

DesertFox4-

Thanks for the advice! 10 years concerns me also which is why I don't have a deadline on making her fly. I know of the 5 year rubber replacement and I have already replaced all the fuel line including sight gauges with Tygon 4040. I ordered some 17mm coolant hose from Car Builder Solutions in the UK. We'll see how long it takes to get here. Along with the intake tube from Lockwood. The rest of the rubber I'm going "on condition" considering how well the motor ran and that it was stored in a hanger in a cool, dry environment. Motor mounts seem supple and there was VERY little vibration during my short run test. Joining Rotax Owners has helped get me up to speed and I have all the SBs printed out awaiting further checking into. Some of which have already been done. There is a retired Rotax maintenance technician I found that has shown interest in helping me get her flying and he is coming by tomorrow morning to look it over and see what I don't. Thanks for all the consideration as I am a safety guy and won't be taking my wife or anyone else up with me until I feel 110% confident in the airplane. Any other suggestions are highly welcome! Thanks!

-Mark

[DesertFox4]

Just what I hoped I would read Mark.
You are being diligent.


I like that you have someone familiar with the engine brand to assist if needed. He can help with advice on the daily care and feeding of your engine too once flying.
Just another thought. Check prop bolt torque also. Not sure what prop is on it. I will go back and look at your photos.

L.E.A.F. , one of our site sponsors out of Wisconsin will also have most everything Rotax. They are great to deal with and quick to ship and much closer than the U.K.
Keep them in mind for future needs.:)

Very best of luck Mark. Enjoy your new Kitfox.:)

[rosslr]

HI Michelle and Mark

Gayle and I are in the middle of our first long trip in our Kitfox and are stuck with bad weather and catching up on Team Kitfox stuff - what a joy to read your posts ad look at the videos!! We know how it feels and enjoyed you sharing it with us - look forward to the first flight pics now!

Enjoy

ross and gayle

[inflight]

My rotax friend came by this morning and looked over the 914. Rubber parts still need replacing but all in all he gave me a thumbs up. There are two issues I need to work through. One is oil in the airbox. I think I may need to remove and reseat the ball in the banjo fitting for the oil supply line to the turbo so it will stop leaking when sitting. Hopefully that will solve that problem or the turbo may need to be serviced and the seals replaced.

The second problem arose when we did my first full power run up. Engine runs great at or below current ambient pressure (about 22 in/hg) but does not want to go above that and surges when I try. I think this may be due to leaky carb bowls. When the 3 way solenoid pressurizes the carbs the bowls leak and can't supply enough fuel to the motor. ?? I was planning on rebuilding the carbs but I have found new/unused 914 carbs on eBay that I am considering buying. It seems like a good deal but depending on there age from manufacture they still my need new gaskets. But for $350 for the pair it may be worth the gamble. Any previous experience/advice is welcome. Just keeping you guys up to date.

[inflight]

Ross and Gayle-

Thanks for comments. I'll tell Michele she needs to keep up the videos! I've been following you're X OZ thread and wish you the best with the rest of your trip. Trip of a lifetime. Take care and fly safe!

-Mark

[inflight]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the ebay carbs. I will be sure to let the community know how I feel about them. Hopefully they will cure my surging issues past ambient pressure.

[av8rps]

My rotax friend came by this morning (snip, snip)

The second problem arose when we did my first full power run up. Engine runs great at or below current ambient pressure (about 22 in/hg) but does not want to go above that and surges when I try. I think this may be due to leaky carb bowls. When the 3 way solenoid pressurizes the carbs the bowls leak and can't supply enough fuel to the motor. ?? I was planning on rebuilding the carbs but I have found new/unused 914 carbs on eBay that I am considering buying. It seems like a good deal but depending on there age from manufacture they still my need new gaskets. But for $350 for the pair it may be worth the gamble. Any previous experience/advice is welcome. Just keeping you guys up to date.

A 914 powered Highlander crashed once (I was there) with a very similar problem of "surging" during high throttle application and warm temps. The best we could tell after the crash (which was very severe both to the pilot and the aircraft) was that because the 914 gets all of its fuel from two electric pumps that continuously run fuel from the header tank to the engine , with all unused fuel going back to the header tank, that the fuel was getting hotter and hotter the more it was run on the ground, which caused fuel vaporization resulting in surging and eventually significant power loss right after takeoff. Lesson learned that day, run all unused fuel back to the wing tanks where there is a larger quantity of cooler fuel to mix with the hot fuel coming back from that engine compartment. Plus the air going over the wing also will help to cool the fuel, wheras the small header tank just lets the fuel get hotter the longer you run the engine.

I don't know for sure if that is why yours is surging, but the scenario sure sounds a lot like that Highlander. I'm guessing if it wasn't summer and if you weren't running it hard on the ground that maybe you wouldn't even know this was an issue. But now that you know that could be a possibility you might want to check out how yours is plumbed. The Highlanders were modified to return fuel to the wing tanks and many 914 Just Aircraft have since been operating successfully.

Knowledge is power...

[DesertFox4]

Thanks Paul. Good info.
I have very little time in 914 powered Kitfoxs. Maybe 4 hours combined. One here in Phoenix years ago and the rest Stick & Rudders S-LSA's.
No surging in any of those that I know of.
Got a friend building one here in Phoenix and we'll pass this on in case he misses it here in this thread.

[Av8r3400]

How big is a highlander header tank compared to a Kitfox tank?

I thought theirs was a very small one, a piece of wing spar tube, like an Avid. I would think the larger Kitfox tank at a couple of gallons would be able to disperse enough heat...?

[Esser]

Kitfox headers are one gallon and believe it or not I think the highlander is 1.5. When I was looking at the UL, they recommended I increased my header to 3 gallons minimum or return to one of the wing tanks. This was due to vapour concerns. Hope this helps.

[inflight]

Taxied for about 20 mins today! Good news is that I don't seem to be getting any more oil past the turbo into the airbox. Best guess is that I had residual oil that accumulated over that 10 year sitting period and that once blown out and the motor run regularly it won't be a problem.

I still couldn't take the MAP past ambient air pressure and I don't think it is a fuel vaporization issue as it is a problem from the get go, not after running for a while. The previous owner flew for about 150 hours with the return line T'd right back to the fuel pumps on the engine side of the firewall. I don't like the setup of the fuel system and plan on changing it, but I haven't decided what I want to do yet.

Does anyone know what the factory is doing with the SLSA? I may need to take another trip to ID just to check out the airplane closer. At the time I did my training I didn't know enough about what I was looking at.

I think fixing my leaky carbs will make a big difference in my surging issue as right now anytime I go over ambient pressure I get fuel seeping from the fuel bowl.

Thanks to Paul for the heads up. I was aware of the vaporization issue but still am not sure how I want to proceed. How would one run the line back to a wing tank? Would I need to tap a new fitting in? Obviously the header tank would be way easier.

[scottr]

Congratulations Mark, watching your first engine start was pretty exciting. I am slow building a Kitfox and watching the videos has gotten me more motivated to work on it again. Good luck and have a great time with it, it's going to be a great adventure.

[Danzer1]

As this relates to the other unanswered question on the bleeding brakes thread about air bubbles in a fuel filter - and I swore off communicating further on that thread. I'll post my food for thought here:

Guess what that vapor lock is? Just like a giant AIR LOCK (BUBBLE) partially or completely blocking the fuel flow! And a fuel pump puts out a lot more pressure than a brake return spring!

I'll let you guys chew on that one for a while!

Greg

[inflight]

Congratulations Mark, watching your first engine start was pretty exciting...

Thanks Scott! There will be more to come. Anytime you are up in the mountains let me know and come on by! Honestly, this seems like it is taking so long, I have a new respect for you builders.

[Ramos]

Mark, I have been contemplating giving Stick & Rudder a fairly serious chunk of cash myself. Any thoughts based on your experience with them would be much appreciated. Feel free to post, PM or email me direct. Thank you.
Jon
jonr@mcgg(dot)net

[inflight]

Jon-

I have nothing but good things to say about Stick and Rudder. I had an excellent time and learned a tone while at it. Paul was very accommodating in helping me make it a dream trip. I stayed at Garden Valley in my truck camper as I prefer camping to hotels and Preston flew there and picked me up in the morning and dropped me off after the lesson. There was an extra cost involved to do that but it was offset by not needing a hotel or transportation. I would go for it, you won't regret it.

-Mark

[av8rps]

If I had a 914 Kitfox I would just follow what the factory does for the fuel system as it apparently works as they have designed it. I shared the info on the Highlander more in an effort to warn others of the pitfalls of recirculating hot fuel back and forth between a very hot engine compartment and a small header tank in the baggage compartment. We will never be 100% sure that was the only issue with that Highlander, but I will say not only was it ok until the day it was ground run a lot before the takeoff on a very warm day, but after the crash that aircraft was rebuilt and that same engine installed identically with the exception of routing return fuel to the wing tank, and it operated perfect. So I know what I believe...

And maybe my statement or term I used as fuel vaporization wasn't exact as I am not a fuel engineer. But I don't believe a fuel pump can pump fuel consistently when it is anything other than a liquid. What I do know is that my friend that crashed that day is extremely lucky to be alive, and has had 7+ surgeries since in an effort to get back to close to normal. So I will never take what I learned that day lightly. Hopefully 914 Kitfoxes don't have that same issue, but I felt obligated to share my experience in the name of safety. So use it as you see fit.

[DesertFox4]

Thanks Paul. We took it just that way. My friend is plumbing just as the S-LSA's are done. However we will stay on alert for any surging. I've recently heard that the computer units that control the turbo may, I repeat may contribute to surging also.
Something else to investigate maybe.

[inflight]

Yes, Thank You Paul! All in the name of safety, I really appreciate your experience. I am pretty certain I will re-plumb the entire fuel system. I plan on getting ahold of my friends from Stick and Rudder and probably calling the McBeans to inquire about how they do the factory SLSA but does anyone know, and even better, have photos of the fuel system in a factory 914 installation? It would be very helpful in the planning process. Thanks again! This is why this is such an awesome community!

[tommg13780]

Mark,
I was the other sole bidder on Ebay for those carbs and had some regrets about losing the auction. Surprised to find a second chance offer this morning so it worked out after all. Apparently this seller has a stockpile of these carbs because this auction was about the 12th pair of these going to ebay with most of the sales settling up at around $400 per pair. Let's compare notes on the outcome.

[inflight]

Tom-

When I contacted the seller he told me he has sold over 160 of them since 2008. There is definitely a stock pile. Do you have a 914? I'm sure someone here can clarify but I know that the 912 and 914 carbs are slightly different, not sure how. Sorry, I snipe eBay items, I'm glad you still got yours. Comparing notes is a great idea.

[tommg13780]

Mark,
I have the 80hp version but for the price we're getting these carbs I 'm not concerned. I definitely will not send carbs out for rebuild again after having a very bad experience. $500 estimated cost, $1200 actual and they came back with 3 of the 4 floats wouldn't float. I think I could have got better results all by myself.

[inflight]

Tom-

You're not the first time I've heard that sad story. The way I see it is now I have a spare set of carbs to tear into myself and not be worried about it. I agree, I think we can do better ourselves. Not to mention the cost going up substantially after you sent them in. That's ludicrous. Just an FYI, the auction ended and I paid on Tuesday and have yet to get a shipping notice. Hopefully this won't become an issue.

[Ramos]

Mark,
Thank you for the Stick & Rudder information. Everything I have found on them has been quite positive.
Jon

To all: Apologies for the 'thread drift'.

[rosslr]

Ramos - this is a bit late but I would thoroughly recommend Stick and Rudder - I travelled to the US 2X to undertake training with them - the first time to make sure this was the plane I wanted to build and the second to make a 'test pilot' out of them. I did the first flight on our plane about a week after leaving Stick and Rudder and it was almost identical to flying their plane. An investment well worth the time and money and it certainly showed me that the aircraft will do anything that I will ever ask of it!

cheers

r

[inflight]

Ramos-

It is a pretty generic thread in the first place and I won't miss a chance to sing praises about Stick and Rudder. I'm glad Ross followed me up on that. He traveled MUCH farther than I did TWICE. That's a good endorsement. I think I might go back this summer also as I need 2 more hours in type to satisfy my insurance.

[tommg13780]

Mark,
was the carb deal successful?

[inflight]

Tommy-

I did get my carbs and they do appear to be new. I have not installed them yet but I am optimistic that they will solve my problem. Because they sat for a while I'm wondering if I need to try to reseal the float gasket or just try it out and see what happens. There is a lot that needs to be removed in order to get the carbs off on a 914 and I don't want to have to do it twice if I don't need to. Is there a way to test the float bowl gasket before I get them mounted? Anyone know? Thanks.

[tommg13780]

Mark,
My carbs came also. I wish this deal had come along sooner because I spent around $500 on rebuilding my existing carbs. Only difference I can see on the exterior is the throttle position sensor which could be removed.
Tom

[inflight]

Tom-

Since I have a 914 that sensor is an added bonus. It is a 2-300 dollar part on its own so I figure that only helps the cause. Have you installed your carbs yet? I'm worried that the cork gasket in the float bowl may be dried out and leak which will put me back where I started. Anyone have a suggestion on how to test the gasket before I install the carbs? I plan on getting to that in the next week. Thanks.

[Dave S]

Mark,

On the carb bowl gasket...the time honored "motorhead" way of dealing with that one is to remove the gasket....if it comes off in one piece, no breaks and has not shrunk it should be entirely usable ....if it is a little rigid, drop it in some gasoline for a 1/2 minute or so shake it off & go ahead, reinstall the bowl and use it.

A new bowl gasket on a rebuilt carburetor should not deteriorate if left assembled for a period of time.

[inflight]

Dave- Thanks for the response. Based on what you said I went ahead and just installed the carbs, new as is, thinking the gasket should be okay.

Luckily, so far, no leaks and was finally able to get the 914 up to full rated power 39.9" @ 5800rpm. Wow! It really wants to fly. Now I just have to decide how much of the "5 year rubber replacement" I want to tackle as most items seem to be in good shape, with no leaks and the engine is SMOOOTH. I'd hate to introduce a problem as I have read here several times with unnecessary part replacement.

[tommg13780]

Mark,
I also installed the new carbs straight out of the box. My 80hp ran very rough and would only rev up to 3000rpm. Quite obvious that something was wrong so they were removed. Upon dismantling the carbs I found out a couple of things. The main needle and jet are same as the set up for 80hp motor but I had one of the needle clips in position 2 and the other in position 3. The correct position for 80hp is 2, at least that's what has been working fine on the original carbs. The needles have 4 clip "slots" and I count them as 1=top to 4=bottom. They are reinstalled and ready to test fire so we'll see what happens. Just another 20 minute job that turned into 4 hours spread over 3 days. I will report again with results.

[kmach]

Inflight,

I recommend changing the fuel lines and coolant lines while you are getting this engine/aircraft back in service. Done now will possibly save you some grief down the road, and you will be starting fresh with new hose and have a benchmark for future replacements. I'll bet when you remove the old hoses that you will find some problem areas on the removed hoses.

[inflight]

Tom-

I had just read recently that the carbs on the 914 have the needle clips in different positions. I'm not totally sure why except maybe it has to do with proximity to the turbo? I hope getting that straightened out fixes your problem.


kmach- I have already replaced the firewall back fuel lines including the aluminum tubing as it was getting scalloped out by the elevator bell crank the way it was installed. I will replace the fuel lines firewall forward as there is not much of it with the 914. I have everything I need already to do the coolant lines but access is definitely an issue to do all of those. I'm considering redoing the motor mounts as well if I'm going to do the coolant lines as it would be easier to remove the motor, it seems. The motor mounts seem good as far as the rubber being still supple but they do look like they are sagging a bit. I'm not sure how much is too much when it comes to mounts sagging. If anyone has photos of theirs that I can compare to that would be great!

I'm definitely struggling with wanting to fly as soon as possible vs. doing everything 110%.

The outer rudder pedals also seem to be a bit sticky but I'm not yet sure if I can remove them to polish the inner torque tube because the plane is already covered.

[Esser]

The outer rudder pedals also seem to be a bit sticky but I'm not yet sure if I can remove them to polish the inner torque tube because the plane is already covered.

This one is an easy 20 min job. You can remove the pedals fairly easily and sand inside the tubes. The hardest part will be taking the springs on and off

[inflight]

John- Forgive my ignorance as I didn't build the plane and I'm not out at the hangar but I do have the build manual with me to reference, but what is the easiest way to remove the pedals? The manual makes it look as though there are going to be nuts on the bottom side of the brackets that I won't have access to now that the airplane is covered. What am I missing? Thanks!

[Esser]

The fabric doesn't go all the way to the front of the fuselage. The nuts are covered by the bottom of your firewall. You should be able to reach in there and get them. I will see if I can find a picture for you.

If there is still powder coat inside the tubes, use gasket remover to clean it out. Make sure you mask off any areas you don't want the powder coat removed.

[inflight]

Thanks Josh! I'm going out to the airport tomorrow and I will take a closer look. Somethings seem more difficult than they are until I dig into it. I appreciate your advice!

[rosslr]

Mark,
I think this is what Josh is referring to.

[inflight]

Thanks! I was able to get the rudder pedals loosened up pretty easily.

I am about to remove the motor to replace the motor mounts and have easier access to replace the the coolant lines.

Is it necessary or just prudent to remove the prop before doing so? It is an Ifa ivo with Murle Williams through the hub mod.

[Esser]

I'm not familiar with that prop. With my AirMaster with the 2" extension and the long bolts make for a very time consuming task to install. Add the fact that the crush washers are only reusable once, we are only going to remove that thing when absolutely necessary. If you are going to have the engine on a hoist the whole time or able to make sure the prop wont get damaged, I would say leave it on.

[DesertFox4]

Most props are a pain to remove. The Ivo is the easiest. The key is when you replace it that you get everything back in the exact same place in relation to the prop hub. I have an Ivo IFA prop with the "through the hub" pickup also. I've taken it off many times.

Use a sharpie felt marker and number each blade. Make an indexing mark on the prop hub itself. Mark the orientation of the blades to the crush plate and all spacers and spinner plate, if installed, to the mark on the prop hub so they all go back exactly the same way on the prop hub. Disconnect the prop motor wires. Then remove the prop. Much easier with the prop off.

*** It is recommended that you center the prop with the control switch first before disassembling the prop so there is no pressure on the blade cams and the motor cam follower. You will be able to hear when the blades reach the position where there is no pressure on the blade cams. It is half way through the full travel of the blades from full course to full flat pitch.

Follow Ivo's instructions for torquing the six prop bolts after installation.
The torque numbers are 200 inch pounds. Ground run the engine for 10 minutes or so after installation then recheck torque to 200 inch pounds . Fly it an hour then recheck. Install 3 new movement indicator stainless strips on the blade hubs.
Your done.

[kmach]

200 inch lbs is for the hub face Y bolts.
The prop blade mounting bolts are to be at 30 ft lbs. check out their website for your prop model instructions.

[Esser]

I was wondering at work today if you had to pull the engine to change the mounts. I'm not at home so I can't look at it but couldn't you loosen them all out, and then remove one at a time, replace it, put your nut back on and move to the next one? Food for thought any how.

[TahoeTim]

+1

one at a time is completely doable

you should be able to change coolant hoses too

[inflight]

Thanks for all the responses. From what I see I wouldn't be able to get the bolts out of the engine mounts without removing the mount from the firewall. I think I may have a custom built mount as John McBean didn't think a 914 on a series 6 was possible. The SS7 that I flew with Stick and Rudder definitely extended the mount out another 4 inches or so and I agree you would be able to change the bushings one at a time. Same for the coolant hoses. Although it would be possible to do the coolant hoses without removing the engine from the firewall, I think it will be infinitely easier with it removed. Since I plan on doing both of those things and much more, it made the most sense in my head. So far the hardest thing to replace has been the ignition rubber mounts. They seem to be almost impossible to get to, but badly needed. One of them fell apart while trying to dismantle them. The other I intentionally cut in half. Getting them reinstalled will be a test of patience unless someone has a trick.

[kmach]

Maybe you have the engine mount like on my model 5.

[inflight]

Nope it is a ring mount.
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