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TY2068
02-19-2016, 12:09 PM
When I first got my Kitfox I immediately realized something was terribly wrong with my tailwheel. It was so bad I could hardly turn around. I'm sure the majority here already know how to set-up tailwheel springs and chains. In any case I thought I'd pass along this link to a video which helped me greatly. I realized that my springs were installed far far too tight. This prevented the tailwheel to unlatch and free caster as it should. Wow what a difference with simple adjustment.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QtokU8mIDQk

HighWing
02-19-2016, 02:02 PM
I guess this reinforces my experience and what I have been doing. Thanks.

Cherrybark
02-19-2016, 02:27 PM
The first part of the video is duplicated. When it starts to repeat you can skip forward to 3:58 to learn how to tell if tail wheel chains and springs are too tight and the problems that situation will cause.

Very good explanation. Thanks for posting.

jrevens
02-19-2016, 05:35 PM
With that specific tailwheel, and perhaps some others, that may be the best way, but it's definitely not for other designs that I'm familiar with. There are many different designs for locking/swiveling tailwheels. Some require a good amount of tension on the springs/arms. Nothing worse than a 6" Scott 34B/2000 with loose springs. Having a tailwheel continually break free while taxiing in a strong crosswind is a pain in the butt. It can be more than that when landing. The differences in design between big & little Scotts, Maule, Lange, Matco, Aviation Products, etc. sometimes result in different requirements. It's the same way with the set-up of rudder cables. It's common to see very loose rudder cables on RV designs. Try that with a Thorp T-18 and you've got a handful.

Flybyjim
02-19-2016, 07:04 PM
I have to agree with John here on the tension, different setups require different tension. If my L16A or Rans S-7 had that loose of chains I would be doing a dance with out a partner.

Jim

HighWing
02-20-2016, 05:00 AM
Maybe the more recent posts are just what this thread needs. I always think of the time I ferried a guy up to Quincy to pick up his Stearman after an annual. The Stearman expert, and he definitely was A Stearman expert, checked out my Kitfox and warned me about my loose tail wheel linkage. I smiled, thanked him and ignored his advice. I use the Homebuilders Special tailwheel and tried early on a tighter linkage as the dimensions and the particular chain and links didn't give what I wanted. I quickly did what I had to to get what was in the video. I might also suggest that the tailwheel weight and aircraft geometry might be a factor as well as the make and model of tailwheel. Again, the real value of this discussion might be the "fact" that one size doesn't necessarily fit all.

Cherrybark
02-20-2016, 06:33 AM
I appreciate others quickly joining in here to point out this method is not suitable for all designs.

My tail wheel flying has mostly been in commercial glider operations where the wizened old mechanic took care of adjusting chains and springs. The tow planes were pulled out of the hanger, given a pre-flight, then a quick buzz around the field to warm everything up. I honestly don't think one of us tow pilots could have answered a question about adjusting a tail wheel.

Big differences between "kick the tires and light the fires" and building a tail dragger.

HighWing
02-20-2016, 06:50 AM
...the wizened old mechanic took care of adjusting chains and springs.

Hopefully we become expert at what we do and understand that our very narrow expertise may have no bearing on a different, though similar, situation . Just too tempted to add to the above quote, "But please don't touch my Model IV".

jrevens
02-20-2016, 10:25 AM
... I might also suggest that the tailwheel weight and aircraft geometry might be a factor as well as the make and model of tailwheel. Again, the real value of this discussion might be the "fact" that one size doesn't necessarily fit all.

Exactly. The usual case is that as a taildragger is loaded, the extra weight on the tail straightens the spring, usually resulting in the distance between the tailwheel arms & the rudder horns becoming shorter & the linkages looser.

Some tailwheels require tension on the arms to provide the locking feature. Some engage a pin or key that is disengaged at a specific angle. One size definitely doesn't fit all.

TJay
02-20-2016, 01:04 PM
So where does a builder go to learn the correct setup for the 8" wide Matco?

kmach
02-20-2016, 01:14 PM
So where does a builder go to learn the correct setup for the 8" wide Matco?

Matco has a video for the setup of their tailwheels on their website.

I followed the video instructions and everything has worked real nice on the 2 matco tailwheels I have used.

metalman
02-20-2016, 01:19 PM
When I first got my Kitfox I immediately realized something was terribly wrong with my tailwheel. It was so bad I could hardly turn around. I'm sure the majority here already know how to set-up tailwheel springs and chains. In any case I thought I'd pass along this link to a video which helped me greatly. I realized that my springs were installed far far too tight. This prevented the tailwheel to unlatch and free caster as it should. Wow what a difference with simple adjustment.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QtokU8mIDQk

I watched this tutorial before setting up my 8" matco and it works great, I originally had the chains too short and could hardly turn it ......having the spring/pivot angle setup properly is critical aswell . I have mine leaning back at the top and again it works well ,never shimmies and it great to taxi

TJay
02-20-2016, 04:46 PM
Thanks I'll check it out

jtpitkin06
02-20-2016, 06:33 PM
So where does a builder go to learn the correct setup for the 8" wide Matco?

The Matco tailwheel assembly comes with steering wings that release at 45 degrees. The Kitfox rudder only moves 25 degrees. Optional wings are available that release at 25 degrees. There was no way the 45 degree wings would work for me. I put in the 25 degree wings and the steering and release are smooth. Well worth the $15 or so.

John P

TY2068
02-20-2016, 06:39 PM
Oh I totally agree with John here. One must be aware of what is right and not right for a particular plane and specific tailwheel type. I should have pointed out that I have the originally supplied Maul tailwheel.

I'm no expert by any means but I know I should be able to turn around on a 100' wide grass strip. Yeah it was that bad. I assumed things were correct with the plane as it was purchased with a fresh front to rear conditional inspection by A&P owner/builder. The plane passed with flying colors but nothing could have been further from reality. I've fixed, replaced, and corrected many things from nose to tail. Several of which could have cost me the plane or my rear. Anyway I found the video to be very helpful personally as I had absolutely no idea how to go about adjusting one for proper operation.

Signed...Expert in training :)