Rotax 912 Voltage regulator

[dalords]

Is anyone using anything different on the Rotax 912 for a voltage regulator other than the Ducati one? Or does anyone know where they might be the cheapest to buy, other than CPS for $175.00 Possible a good used one?

[SkyPirate]

just curious,,did you check all connections? sometimes they can work loose or get a little corrosion

[dalords]

I did check all the connections. Had a voltage spike and quit working. Won't charge the battery. Did all the checks on the stator and they were all fine. So it's the regulator.

[SkyPirate]

I have been looking for a replacement..other then ducatti thru the forums..no luck

[jrevens]

This is a very nice looking regulator made in Germany... same footprint and connector as the Ducati, with a much larger heatsink and higher amp rating -

http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_R_912.htm

If you don't speak German, you can use Google Translate or something similar to translate fairly accurately into English.

I'm curious about how many people have actually had problems/failures of the Ducati unit. I'm also wondering if we could set up a poll of the Members, asking that question?

[Paul Z]

Go read about the Spanish to English translation mistake they made. It's really bad, so be careful on the translations.

[mcomeaux53]

I've had mine fail on me.

[Dorsal]

I just replaced mine 3 weeks ago, it decided it did not like charging anymore.

[Dorsal]

It states it need forced air cooling (wind), I have mine mounted on the cabin side of the firewall (no wind). They have increased the heat-sink but suggest it will fail in some standard configurations? I wonder if this is just CYA language.

[HighWing]

Never a failure - 900 hours first kitfox 100 hours on second. As others, mounted aft of the firewall and often ran with strobes and incandescent position lights. I remember the caution about switching off the master before engine shut down being a no no. Apparently having the stator input without having a load can fry the unit - at least.my understanding.

[kitfox2009]

Original one lasted over 400 hours then would not control charge rate accurately. Had to run lights at times to prevent over charge. Replacement over 200 hours with no problem.
My TinyTach died after 200 hours. Is this normal? I guess we shouldn`t expect much for $50!
We are having fun practicing for our November 11 Flypast. 6 aircraft from an RV 8, 3 Cessnas, my Vixen and a Maranda. Quite the performance variation!!

Let`s all honour our Vets and fallen Servicemen/women this week.

Cheers
Don

[DesertFox4]

I've had at least 5 fail. :(

Some talk of the ease of overloading these enemic little units by operating too many power consuming devices while engine rpm's are too low as during taxi times, warm up times and anytime the rpms's are below 3500 or so.
I certainly have done all those things. Will change my practices and see if life expectancy increases.
I would turn on strobes and wig-wags on the ground before take off. We think this is detrimental to the regulator. I'll now wait until
take off roll to activate high load devices like strobes and try to remember to shut them off right after landing. My strobes are not LED by the way but the new project will be. That will help unload the regulator during strobe use.

The failures would manifest in early stages as temporary over voltages on the bus bar during cruise rpm's. Sometimes they would climb to 16 volts. I would flip on all electrical devices to pull the voltage down to normal range. After a while that would not help and the unit would have to be replaced.
I hear that the Van's RV 12 guys direct cooling air on to their reg/rectifiers to keep them cool.

[Dave S]

A couple points I was not aware of - Lowell about not shutting down the master before shutting down the engine ( I do have an avionics switch to shut off the radios though) and DF 4 about the load at low RPMs.

A person can learn stuff all the time on this forum:)

Maybe I have survived both by default rather than design:o as I have always shut of the engine before the master for other reasons; and, our KF has a minimal load on the rather wimpy standard Rotax alternator due to the fact that we have the auxillary belt drive alternator which takes all the high draw stuff like lights, etc while the wimpy one is just for stuff like the radio. The dual system provides that a person can isolate a bad alternator/regulator, cross tie the load and still be operational.

I almost hate to say it lest I invite murphy's ghost to visit upon me...but - never had a Rotax regulator failure over 7 years, to answer the question at hand.

Dave S
KF 7 Trigear
912ULS Warp Drive

St Paul, MN

[jiott]

I just replaced a failed one at 300 hours; it quit charging the battery. All my strobes and nav lights are LED. It is mounted in the cockpit area behind my panel. When I put the new one in, I cut a small (about1/4" square) hole in my scat tubing for the panel air vents to direct outside air toward the regulator.

[jiott]

I have heard that many guys carry a spare with them because these things can easily strand you somewhere. Almost none of the major airport maintenance shops keep these regulators in stock, so you would end up waiting several days while you have Lockwood, CPS, or Kitfox (bless them, they keep some in stock) ship one to your location.

I believe these Ducati regulators are by far the weakest link in the whole otherwise reliable 912 engine series. I wish Rotax would step up to the plate and recognize this and develop a good one of their own, or partner with another vendor, to solve this problem once and for all before they spend any more effort in developing and improving the engine itself. It only makes good business logic to attack the weakest links first. Sorry about my soapbox!

[kmach]

I have over 650 hrs with no failure, 912 uls internal generator only. regulator mounted in the cockpit.

I never shutoff the master with the engine running. If memory serves me right, the 912 operators manual covers that.

I run a fairly high load , efis ,ems, gps, radio ,transponder ,intercom, IFA electric prop, stabilizer electric trim, aeroled's aerosun wig wag and position/strobes, heater fan, aux fuel pump . Thankfully allot listed are intermittent short period use. The IFA prop , radio transmitting and trim adjustment on an idling final definitely suck the power.

[Slyfox]

Never a failure - 900 hours first kitfox 100 hours on second. As others, mounted aft of the firewall and often ran with strobes and incandescent position lights. I remember the caution about switching off the master before engine shut down being a no no. Apparently having the stator input without having a load can fry the unit - at least.my understanding.

I've never had a problem with any of mine. first one with 1500 hrs and second with 400 now. I have 2 switches for mags and key for start. main is on a switch on the right side of the panel, I turn that on first and last thing when done flying. you might have something on this subject.

wait a minute my first one I carried over to the second motor so it has a total of 1900 hrs on it. the new one is in my tool box.

[jtpitkin06]

If you are looking for a regulator replacement for the Ducati you might try John Deere. Part number AM126304. About $70 but can be found cheaper ($44) on eBay or online sellers.

These regulators are similar (identical ???) to the Ducati unit and are used a lot by the Corvair conversion crowd.


John P

[Av8r3400]

Add me to the list.

I just replaced mine today to fix an intermittent no-charging situation. 550 hours total time on the plane. It's been giving me off and on trouble for the last ~10 hours.

I was dreading the idea of possibly replacing the stator coil. I was happy as a pig in mud when the stator checked out (.1 ohm resistance, 15 volts ac at idle and 25 at 3000 rpm).

[DesertFox4]

Glad for you that it was not the stator. Rotax has a weak link that really needs addressing. :confused:

[Av8r3400]

I had a split master switch (batt/alt) that had a fault in it. I believe it was feeding back through the regulator and lunched it.

These regulators are just like any other motorcycle unit. If the battery power is interrupted while the engine is running, the regulator will quickly fail.

I've had the same thing happen twice on my motorcycle, and the H-D regulator is almost as expensive… :(

[jrevens]

Thought I'd add a little info to this old thread, FWIW. These are available through Amazon -

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-230-42030-Regulator-04191231EC/dp/B07JK5GS11/ref=sr_1_295?dchild=1&keywords=DB+Electrical+voltage+regulator&qid=1604096602&sr=8-295

I've been told that they are equivalent to the Ducati units used by Rotax, for about $100 less. Might be worth stocking one if you are using the original Ducati unit. I have a friend with a RANS S7 and 912ULS who is using one.

[Shadowrider]

Another option is B&C has developed a voltage regulator that they are planning on providing a lifetime warranty. Mike at Stol Creek aviation has more info if your interested.

[Delta Whisky]

This thread (and the other about the capacitor) made me nervous (flying without a back up regulator and no over voltage protection with the Rotax unit) and I just ordered one from B&C. All of the B&C components I've had have proven to be bullet proof. I asked about the need for the infamous capacitor and was informed that their unit doesn't need one - unless you have a bit of noise to clamp.

[Norm]

Thought I'd add a little info to this old thread, FWIW. These are available through Amazon -

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-230-42030-Regulator-04191231EC/dp/B07JK5GS11/ref=sr_1_295?dchild=1&keywords=DB+Electrical+voltage+regulator&qid=1604096602&sr=8-295

I've been told that they are equivalent to the Ducati units used by Rotax, for about $100 less. Might be worth stocking one if you are using the original Ducati unit. I have a friend with a RANS S7 and 912ULS who is using one.

Just checking is the regulator the one you listed or possibly this one

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-230-42029-Regulator-04191200EC/dp/B07JKCBC6M/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=ducati+343620&qid=1604857923&sr=8-12

I had ordered the one you listed when I was having charging problems with my 912 but after checking the numbers on my regulator I found that it was a 343620 rather than the 343520 you listed. I asked DB electrical for the specs and what the differences were between the two regulators and could never get an answer.
As it turned out I stole a regulator from a friend who had an extra so I have never used either regulator yet. Next time you see your friend with the Rans ask him if it is the black connector or the Red connector on the regulator. I have 1 black and two red now but would like confirmation about the number. By the way my old regulator had about 400hrs when it died but I had some battery issues so I am not sure I can blame the regulator.

[jrevens]

It’s black, Norm. I’m not using that type myself... I have a Silent Hektik unit. I don’t see those numbers that you’re talking about on the Amazon listing. The link I posted is for the DB Electrical 230-42030 (tel:230-42030). I just talked to him & he confirmed the link. The link you just posted is for the 230-42029 (tel:230-42029). All I know is that he said it works perfectly.

[Norm]

It’s black, Norm. I’m not using that type myself... I have a Silent Hektik unit. I don’t see those numbers that you’re talking about on the Amazon listing. The link I posted is for the DB Electrical 230-42030 (tel:230-42030). I just talked to him & he confirmed the link. The link you just posted is for the 230-42029 (tel:230-42029). All I know is that he said it works perfectly.


Thanks John
I actually ordered mine from Ebay as shipping was easier to Canada. The 343620 is the Ducatti number. Appears on my old one and also on the replacement.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-for-75cc-CAGIVA-COCIS-89-04191200EC-8122902/133568731370?hash=item1f195118ea:g:HScAAOSw3~dfplH q

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-for-650cc-CAGIVA-ELEFANT-85-89-AP8112331/363011037281?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOME SPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D85b9ab 907ecc4a14aedc4ea0428d0c00%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1 %26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dsb%26sd%3D133427865463%26itm %3D363011037281%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675 %26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV4BBEV2bLo werCap%26brand%3DDB+Electrical&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

The Silent Hektik is one that looks very interesting but I could not find a source. Looks like I'll have one to try and two spares but the price for the 3 was less than the price of my first one from Rotax

[Delta Whisky]

Finally was able to get to install the B&C unit. Nice looking (external components are all "hog outs"). Appeared to be smaller (in height) and lighter as well. Was a drop in replacement and puts out a tad more voltage than the unit that came with my engine.

26117

[Maverick]

I have little experience with Rotax engines so if my question seems foolish, forgive me. I'm far more comfortable with Continental motors.

Here goes: Is there a reason, other than failure, to change this regulator on a basis of hours of operation? My engine has just over 700 hours. I can't remember if this was a component that came with the FWF kit or I had to buy it separately or if it came with the motor when I bought it. In any case, given the apparent frequency of failure that seems to be occurring, I wonder if this should be replaced every 100 hours or so? Since the DB Electrical 130-42030 voltage regulator is a $40 dollar part, it almost seems like this is something to do occasionally.

[Dave S]

Maverick,

I do not see any reason to routinely replace the regulator. One item which can be hard on them is asking them to do too much; in other words, if a person is running an electrical system which maxes out or somewhat exceeds the charging capacity, failure is not going to be due to the hours. My understanding is the regulator does not tolerate max output very well in the long run. There are probably a few other things that can precipitate failure which do not include hours run; and, replacing the regulator based on hours probably won't save a person from any of them.

I think it is worth while to pull the connectors periodically to assure there are no loose connections or crimp issues which could create high resistance points; and, a little dielectric grease goes a long ways warding off corrosion problems.

One of the optional regulators builders are using (including John Deer yard tractor units) would certainly be my choice if one is ever needed but I would never replace one that is working fine. I can see having a spare handy is not a bad idea but save it till and if it is needed.

Others mileage may vary.

[jrevens]

I agree with Dave. There has been a lot of discussion on this forum as well as other groups regarding Rotax and the Ducati regulator/rectifier. I believe the most common general consensus is that heat is the most probable killer of these units. Your particular electrical load and the location of your unit may be fine for allowing it to have a long life... I wouldn't replace it until, or if it fails, IMO.

[jiott]

I just carry a spare Ducati regulator in the plane at all times. It is not that expensive, is small and compact, and is easily replaced with very few tools in the field (at least in my airplane). I did have one fail at about 500 hours.

[patrick.hvac]

That's a really good idea for the emergency kit.