Need ideas on flushing 582 poly oil tank

[beeryboats]

My 582 went in for O/H today, so other things can progress. Any ideas on how to flush old nasty two stroke oil out of the poly oil tank on the firewall? And what is that little filter inline to the engine?

[beeryboats]

Still no ideas guys?

[t j]

The little inline filter has a screen in it. That should be cleaned too. If you take it off the oil line you can see in the inlet and outlets to check it.

Not sure what to clean the tank out with. If it was mine I would take it off and clean it with turpentine or parts cleaning solvent.

[beeryboats]

Well... I'm not sure how the oil tank or the coolant overflow tank come off. Somehow the poly tanks are attached to the alum. mounts then through bolted to the firewall. I think.

[Av8r_Sed]

My oil tank is held into an alumunum bracket by two stainless steel straps with thick cardboard shims. I was able to work out the shims and then work the tank out without removing the straps.

Make sure to check the tank carefully. The plasticizers in mine were long gone and the tank was very brittle. Fortunately it is a standard size Nalgene bottle and is easy to get a replacement. There are better choices than the original for replacing the overflow. I think AV8r3400 posted something about that a couple years back.

[beeryboats]

Thanks Paul. I should just replace the oil tank I guess. I did not recognize that oil bottle name though. Can you PM me more info?
Thanks,
Jay

[t j]

I used a Ski Doo oil tank. Found a new old stock one on ebay. If you want to go this route look for one from a 1980s through about 2000 fan cooled engine...most were 503's sometimes called a 500.

The liquid cooled Ski Doos have a coolant tank attached and two extra ports for the rotary valve lube so you don't want those.

Note the sump to hold oil at steep angles so you don't need to mount the tank at an angle.

This one is off a 1996 Ski Doo Skandic 500. Be sure the cap is a oil tank cap...it is vented...the gas caps are not. It has a low oil warning switch you can wire to a light.

[beeryboats]

That's a nice looking install. Thanks for the info and photos. I'm pretty sure I want to keep the tank I have, or at least one just like it, as it fits nicely.
Jay

[Av8r_Sed]

Jay,
I'm not sure what happened. I thought I posted a reply last night, but I don't see it here. Anyway, mine is a 64 oz rectangular Nalgene bottle carried by many camping supply places (REI, Campmor, Amazon). Just Google and you'll find it for around $12.

http://www.campmor.com/wcsstore/Campmor/static/images/items/main/80924.jpg

[beeryboats]

Under the cowl I'm having a hard time finding out what came from Rotax, Kitfox, or the hardware store. The oil tank is one of those items. I was praying it was a factory item as I really dread having fab a mount for a new tank. I assume the coolant overflow is also a hardware store item?

[t j]

Do any of these look like it?
http://www.cps-parts.com/menus/rtx/parts_z_reservoirs.html

[beeryboats]

Here is what I have. Notice the nice white bird poop!

[beeryboats]

And here is the coolant overflow tank.

[Av8r_Sed]

Those were the standard bottles provided with the kit.

[Paul Z]

Do any of these look like it?
http://www.cps-parts.com/menus/rtx/parts_z_reservoirs.html

For the Prices on those bottles, I think I would go buy new ones, plastic does deteriorate and crack!

[beeryboats]

For the Prices on those bottles, I think I would go buy new ones, plastic does deteriorate and crack!

Paul, I'm confused, are you saying to look aftermarket (use the link) due to the price of the Kitfox bottles? Or just be sure to change the bottles?

I'm trying to figure out how the coolant bottle attaches to the firewall. The battery box completely covers the opposite side of the firewall from the bottle bracket. As you can see from the photos, I really need clear off the firewall so I can clean the bird poop off the blanket.

Jay

[Paul Z]

It is an experimental, you can use automotive parts. In my SLSA several of the parts are available from my local automotive parts house.
Even if you feel you must replace with Kitfox parts.
Yes, I would replace the plastic tanks. If I'm working on a plane that has set idle for years. The first thing I would do is squeeze the tank to see if it was brittle. The plastic deteriorates because of the fuel, the age of the tank, temperature changes, hot to cold, back to hot. All would cause me concern.
Even if Kitfox sells the parts at $50 per tank, I would replace them. It's safer, cheaper, and to replace them before they fail, especially if they fail in flight.

[Paul Z]

Also, if you look several of the Tanks a Rotax specific tanks.

[beeryboats]

Well I was totally confused! Yes, no doubt, change all rubber and plastic anything! I thought you may have been warning me about Kitfox prices on plastic bottles. I do not care!!! I told the engine builder, price is not an issue. Mistake? Maybe. Piece of mind, priceless. I want it right. I had my wife and 12 year old daughter with me when we dropped off the engine. I introduced my daughter as my co-pilot. I think he got the picture.

This just got me thinking. What about the pitot tube plumbing? I better just look into that. I may need to replace that too.
Jay

[Paul Z]

Rotax recommends replacing all engine hoses every 5 years.

[beeryboats]

I've changed the entire fuel system except the tanks. And those I ran an endoscope through! I found the header tank was installed in the wrong place too. Yes, and the prop is a wall hanging too. It's out of "TBO" as well.