Door window pop rivet size?

[beeryboats]

I bought new "glass" for the doors on my '94 IV project, but no rivets. I didn't count them before I ordered the windows :). I figured I could buy them locally anyway. Does anyone remember what diameter and grip length rivets came with the kit?
Thanks,
Jay

[Peteohms]

Don't suggest pop rivets. My bubble doors are attached with screws and nuts. I think you have a greater chance of cracks with pop rivets.

[Av8r3400]

Do a search for door glass. There's another discussion out there with a bunch of options.

I've decided to go with rivnuts and screws on mine to get away from the acorn nuts on the inside. I have the nuts on my yellow plane and if I had a dollar for every time I've hit my head on those...

[HighWing]

It would depend on what you mean by "glass". If it is polycarbonate rivets are fine. My guess - 1/8" X 1/4" grip length. My door frames were black and I found black anodized rivets on line. If you have the acrylic bubble doors I would agree with the previous posts.

[beeryboats]

I'm only going on what's already there. Lots of pop rivets. I bought the "glass" from Kitfox. I thought it was preformed, but it's just precut sheets of clear plastic.

[n85ae]

Don't use rivets, use #6 or #8 screws, washers, and locknuts.

Jeff

[t j]

The rivets all around the outside are 1/8 X 1/8. The rivets holding the fiber glass center door strips, ( also go through the bottom of the window and top of the bottom door skin/window) are 1/8 X 1/4.

I prefer the rivets...just another opinion.

[Peteohms]

Do a search for door glass. There's another discussion out there with a bunch of options.

I've decided to go with rivnuts and screws on mine to get away from the acorn nuts on the inside. I have the nuts on my yellow plane and if I had a dollar for every time I've hit my head on those...

You nailed that! I've lost a lot of scalp on my doors. I try to never get in my plane without a hat on.

[Dave S]

Beeryboats,

I checked the build manual for our S7 on the door rivet deal......what I found, for the fiberglass bottom and polycarbonate top is the use of 1/8" X 1/4" long flush mount used all around - this agrees with Highwing's comments.

Regarding the "glass" one thing that helps confuse us is the somewhat indiscriminate use of names by industry material manufacture/marketers mixing up trade names with material names.....Highwing spoke of Polycarbonate - that correctly identifies the material that various manufacturers brand under various trade names....Lexan and Macrolon for instance.

So the instructions I have for our S7 applies only to the fiberglas/polycarbonate only - Bubble doors are different.

What I don't know is if the rivet spec has always been the same or not for various Kitfox models with teh two piece door panels/windows - I know a person does not want to use too short a rivet.

The only thing I don't like about the rivets is it complicates things on window replacement time - I keep thinking there is no way to avoid having little bits of rivets rattling around inside the door frame if they have to be drilled out...on the plus side...they do hold everythig together just fine without any ends sticking out.

Sincerely,

Dave S

[beeryboats]

Thanks all. I have no idea as to the material of the plastic. I have yet to remove the protective paper, so it may say what the compound is. And yes, I thought of all those rivet tails rattling up and down the door frame tubes every time I open or close the door. I hope that as the doors only open to the horizontal, the tails won't migrate uphill.

I honestly thought the windows were preformed. So I was surprised when flat plastic showed up at my door. Now I'm concerned about installing the rivets without creating a buckle or bulge in the plastic. I had thought of drilling out the old glass and, using clecos, start drilling through the holes in the old glass then through the new, and installing clecos as I go. Or did you guys just clamp the heck out of it and drill right on the frame?

[HighWing]

The only thing I don't like about the rivets is it complicates things on window replacement time - I keep thinking there is no way to avoid having little bits of rivets rattling around inside the door frame if they have to be drilled out...on the plus side...they do hold everything together just fine without any ends sticking out.
Dave S

I agree with this. I have always used rivets and will again when the occasion arises. I do, however shop for aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels for ease of drilling them out if necessary. On my first Model IV, I drilled a 3/16" hole on the bottom of the door frame about two inches forward of the bottom aft bend. The purpose was to shake out the rivet fragments when I replaced the plastic.

[DesertFox4]

On my first Model IV, I drilled a 3/16" hole on the bottom of the door frame about two inches forward of the bottom aft bend. The purpose was to shake out the rivet fragments when I replaced the plastic.

I confess :o to doing this also as I've replaced my original door "glass". Hated the sound and the idea of those little rivet bits riding along for free.

[PapuaPilot]

I did the same thing, drilling a couple holes in my door frame to get out all of the rivets. I don't feel it is necessary to use screws for the window as it will not be changed very often.

[n85ae]

It's not about the need to change the window, it's about fastening tension.

With screws and a window you control the clamping force.

With rivets, you hope for the best and pray for no cracks.

Use screws.

Regards,
Jeff

[Dutch]

I used the little thin nylon washers under the rivets & drilled the holes slightly over size & have had no problems. Dutch