Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

[Spook712]

Hi,
has anyone tried to fix the doorwindows using rivnuts and screws rather than rivets.
I'm concerned with getting the rivnuts installed in the round doorframe metal.

Thanks for the Help,


Tuna

[tommg13780]

I used these sheet metal screws with rubber/metal washers similar to the screws for galvanized roofing. I'm not particularly pleased with the appearance but seems functional. also the tape/gasket was used, I can't remember the name of the product but seems like it was 3M and available at auto parts store. (expensive)

[Spook712]

You just screw them into the holes in the doorframe?
Or is there any thread on the frameside?

[Av8r3400]

I used 6-32 screws long enough to go through the frame with acorn nuts on the inside.

[Spook712]

I used 6-32 screws long enough to go through the frame with acorn nuts on the inside.

So you drilled through the doorframe?
I kind of wanted to avoid that, in order not to weaken the frame or is that not an issue?

Greets

[SkySteve]

When I replaced my door windows I used rivnuts. They worked great.

[DanB]

I used riv-nuts on my doors. If you screw them down too tight, little fracture lines occur. Take the time to ream the holes in the plastic (get rid of sharp edges). I would also include a rubber/plastic washer between the door plastic and the screw head.

[kitfox2009]

Last winter I made up these doors for the Vixen. Attached them with automotive self tapping screws and double faced molding tape. Flew all last summer and they worked well.
Reaming the holes is probably important
Don

[Av8r3400]

So you drilled through the doorframe?
I kind of wanted to avoid that, in order not to weaken the frame or is that not an issue?

Greets

It hasn't been an issue for me. This is the way my flying plane is configured, so I was going to do my project plane the same.

[skyraidertom]

I used zip ties. Drilled a hole through the lexan on each side of the tubing. Buy the colored zip ties if you want them to match.

[Av8r3400]

I used riv-nuts on my doors. If you screw them down too tight, little fracture lines occur. Take the time to ream the holes in the plastic (get rid of sharp edges). I would also include a rubber/plastic washer between the door plastic and the screw head.


Dan - I'm intrigued by the riv-nuts idea. Do you have any photos or details to add?

[Spook712]

YES Dan, that is exactly what I'm planning to do.

Do you have some close ups??

[Esser]

I am planning on using black aluminum pop rivets. If I need to replace the lexan, they drill out easy.

[HighWing]

I also used pop rivets. I found aluminum rivets pre-finished in black. I also chose to go with the Lexan as a weight saving decision. One thing I did a bit differently was to search out some aluminum H channel on line. I found some 1" wide channel with a 1/8" throat. Carefully bending it to shape, it replaced the fiberglass strap between upper and lower Lexan. (Drop a note if you want to try this as bending the channel takes some care.) I had the strap on my first Model IV and never liked the way it looked or fit. Once the channel was fitted to the frame and clecoed in place, it required some careful trimming of the mating edges of the upper and lower Lexan sheets, but I really like the look. The door frame is black so with the aluminum channel and pop rivets both in black, I almost get the acrylic bubble door look.

[Kurt.A]

Lowell that is drop dead gorgeous! Can you post a link for the materials? Forming the material should be relatively easy with a piece of 1/8 th. material (scrap plywood, aluminum etc.) in the channel to prevent the channel from collapsing.

[HighWing]

Lowell that is drop dead gorgeous! Can you post a link for the materials? Forming the material should be relatively easy with a piece of 1/8 th. material (scrap plywood, aluminum etc.) in the channel to prevent the channel from collapsing.

Thanks, Kurt. The product is McMaster Carr part number 8429A3 - just checked and still in the online catalog. You got the bend issue right on. I used several layers of thin aluminum strips that fit very snugly into the channels. I marked the bend location and clamped a piece of rounded 2X4 in the vice and bent it over that by hand - repeatedly checking progress against the door frame. You can see by the picture that I trimmed each end to fit over the door frame tubing.

[Kurt.A]

Thanks, Kurt. The product is McMaster Carr part number 8429A3 - just checked and still in the online catalog. You got the bend issue right on. I used several layers of thin aluminum strips that fit very snugly into the channels. I marked the bend location and clamped a piece of rounded 2X4 in the vice and bent it over that by hand - repeatedly checking progress against the door frame. You can see by the picture that I trimmed each end to fit over the door frame tubing.

Ordered the aluminum H last night and got a reply from McMaster Carr today saying that they are declining the order. Apparently they will not ship a personal order out of country, only business orders. So searching for another supplier.

Kurt

[Av8r3400]

I used riv-nuts on my doors. If you screw them down too tight, little fracture lines occur. Take the time to ream the holes in the plastic (get rid of sharp edges). I would also include a rubber/plastic washer between the door plastic and the screw head.


Since it's not advisable to tighten the fasteners too much, how did you do this with the riv-nuts? Did you add a drop of loc-tight or similar to keep the screws staying in place?