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Nathaniel
06-02-2009, 01:31 PM
Can't find any specs on elevator rigging, i.e. angle of elevtor deflection for full nose up/nose down travel. Also, will it matter if the stab is trimmed up or down when rigging the elevator? I wouldn't think so if you are just measuring angle to horizon, not angle to HS.

Thanks all! Working on the control system now. Can anyone think of any reason why I couldn't mount the HS and elevator now, level the HS and rig the elevator (so I can toruqe and safety all the pushrods and linkages for the elevator) then disassemble for cover and paint? Then I just have to bolt it all together when I'm done.

SkyPirate
06-02-2009, 01:43 PM
that's the way I would do it Nathaniel,..then remove the elevator for covering,..your basically prefitting everything before covering this way,..any problems you'd be able to remedy prior to covering,.I'd prefit the rudder too,..and decide where I was going to route my antenna's,..get all of the mounts pre rigged before covering,..if your putting a beacon or any lights on the belly or tail.. get all the wires/cables run first .

Chase

Nathaniel
06-02-2009, 01:45 PM
Yeah, looks to be the best way. Appreciate the reality check.

Any idea on elevator rigging?

SkyPirate
06-02-2009, 01:58 PM
before I set any angle on the elevator,..I'd have the stick assembly all together and in place,..
I could give you an educated guess,..but,.. there must be something in the literature that states the up and down angles for the elevator,..

my guess would be near 40 degree's up and near 30 degrees down,..
it's not something you want to guess at though,..
Someone who has built the SS should respond to this soon.

Chase

Dave S
06-02-2009, 03:31 PM
Nathaniel,

I have a series 7, very similar to the SS, but the pitch/pitch trim is different so I don't think I can help directly with your question; but I would like to offer an approach to help you.

The information you need should be in the aircraft assembly manual for the SS. If you do not have a manual - you need to get one. If parts of the manual are missing - get them located so you have your complete manual.

Prior to diving in to assemble - it is really worth a person's time to thoroughly read the entire manual cover to cover - maybe twice. The main reason for this is to have a sense of where to look in the manual for specific build procedures. It takes time but it ends up saving a person time in the long run; and, saving a person from the occasional OOPS!

What I can tell you is that basic rigging is essential to a safe first flight - basic rigging and control function is all a matter of measuring carefully and checking the measurements against the specifications to be sure they are as close to spec as they can reasonably be.

Again - I don't have the recipe for a SS, but I did do the series 7 and the pitch/pitch trim was a matter of following the build manual - if a person can't find the specifics - it is best to go back and study until there is no doubt about exactly how to set up the rigging - that way a person will have the confidence that the task is done correctly - it does take time and does take effort - and it is also this little thing about each of us being proud of the knowledge we gain in doing a good build.

Sincerely,

Dave S
K7 Trigear

Nathaniel
06-02-2009, 08:15 PM
its in the final assembly manual, but I would start at the beginning first!

That's why I ask. 'cuz if it's in there I can't find it.

Nathaniel
06-02-2009, 08:20 PM
Yup, read it. Still some things I can't find, that's why I'm on the boards!

I've got the control system installed, if I cant rig the elevator I can cinch down the elevator system and be done with it. Harder to get to those rod ends and jam nuts and bell cranks with cover on the aircraft.

Nathaniel
06-03-2009, 03:44 PM
Well, there's always a simply explanation isn't there? Why couldn't I find the elevator rigging? Easy, I don't have it.

Called Debra and she quoted chapter and verse from the book that is Super Sport and nope, I don't have those pages. Fixed up good now!

FYI from neutral it is trailing edge up 39 degrees, down 20 degress. +- 1 degree.

Easy enough.

SkyPirate
06-03-2009, 05:22 PM
I guess I was in the ball park for up when I said 40 degree's

as for your door .on my model 2 the door frame fit inside of the opening,...the important thing is to make sure the door frame is close enough to the forward tube in the door opening on the fuselage so the latch works properly,..but keep in mind of mechanism of the gas charged cylinder that mounts on the front of the opening also .

Nathaniel
06-03-2009, 05:46 PM
Working on door frame now. Missing about 90% of the parts, working on a email to Kitfox for the past hour. Directions in the book are terrible (in my opinion) so I'm struggling through it. Clear as mud!

DesertFox4
06-03-2009, 05:57 PM
Chase, the doors from the models' 1,2,3 and 4 are not the same as the 5,6,and 7 models. The 5,6, and 7's are a flush fit and the plexi does not over lap the side of the fuselage. The 5,6 and 7 versions are a much nicer finished door but slightly more involved to fabricate.

P.S.,
I moved the door gas struts to the rear of the doors on my Model 4 for more ease of entry into the cockpit. Seams to work just as well as I've flown with my doors open at 120mph and no flutter or movement.

SkyPirate
06-03-2009, 07:04 PM
Yes,..I noticed that once I see the pictures..it's a totally different animal,..looks like a lot better design