Rotax 582 oil question-what is this for?

[beeryboats]

Check out the photo. What the heck is the second oil container for? I've been looking at this for months and just now noticed the tiny oil, I assume that's what in there, tank above the head. In my prep for engine removal, I took a bunch of photos tonight and I can't figure out what the purpose of that tank is.

I should mention here that two strokes and I don't get along. I should take glider lessons before I fly this thing. I have thrown away one chain saw, two outboards, and two weed whackers over the years.:eek:

[rocketman2tm]

Let me first state that I have never flown behind a two stroke engine or have owned one. That being said, I do remember reading somewhere about there being an oil tank that would mix the fuel and oil on the fly as it is being delivered to the engine. My understanding is that most users don't use this in case you ever have a problem with oil delivery. You would then just used mixed gas in the fuel tank. Again though, this is just what I remember reading somewhere.

[foxy]

Hi

That oïl tank is for the rotary valve OIL. (not related with fuel).

The oil goes down to lubricate the rotary valve SHAFT and the rotary valve and goes back up to the tank.

The oïl used is the same as your 'mixing' oïl.
Don't overfill pass the MAX line .

I suggest you get the free online manuals for the 582.

see chapter 13 of this installation manual

http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d00287.pdf

[Av8r3400]

First I have never had a 582, but have been around many of them.

This is not part of the oil injection system. It is not a combusted or "consumed" oil. It is the oil supply for the rotary valve shaft. If this tank goes dry, your motor quits. It is just as important as the oil mixed in the fuel.

The oil type used here is the same oil as the oil mixed into the fuel, by either injection or premix.

[dynomike]

bleed it from the bottom up like a brake line .

[beeryboats]

Thanks guys! I've never flown behind one either! That's why I should take glider lessons. Thanks for the manual link. I better bone up on this monster, my life will depend on it! :eek:
The left side of the engine above the carbs is one mess of tubes and wires. That's why I couldn't see where those oil lines went. I did dip the tank and saw it was full of oil. That's why I assumed it was part of the oil injection system.

[foxy]

beeryboats, you have a GREY HEAD version of the 582.. This was changed in 99 by the BLUE HEAD and the main 'upgrade' is at the rotary valve seal.

This is the weak point of the 582. If the seal fail, you may have oïl in the coolant or worst,,,coolant in the oïl..

oïl in coolant can be seen in the CLEAR coollant overflow bottle.
Coolant in oil can be seen with some white spots in the oil reservoir.

have a look at this

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cps-parts.com%2Fcps%2Fpdf%2FPart50.pdf&ei=-avyU4-EJIyHogSWyoHwCg&usg=AFQjCNHFVNDHUJi5g5DI41YPcJd-T1ZJoA&bvm=bv.73231344,d.cGU

[avidflyer]

If you take the engine off and drain out the oil from the rotary valve shaft area, make sure to get the air out of that system when you reinstall the engine and refill this bottle. This is doubly important on an inverted engine. I filled up the system by pouring oil into the bottle end of the lower (on engine) hose. As it fills, it pushes out the air up through the upper hose (on engine). There is also a bleed screw that helps to get the air out in heads up engine. You can't just fill the bottle and think you are good to go. This oil lubes the rotary valve shaft, and the gear on it and on the crankshaft that turns it and the gears wont last long without oil. Then things get quiet. If you are successful in the landing, you can now rebuild your engine. Jim Chuk

[beeryboats]

Yeah, I hate quiet. That's why I work at a diesel shop. Lot's of noise all the time.
;)

[Av8r_Sed]

Grey Head 582’s came originally with basic O-ring seals on the rotary valve shaft which are known to degrade, especially if the owner wasn't careful to use a silicate free anti-freeze (Dex-Cool) and only distilled water. Blue Heads have an improved ceramic seal. I had mine upgraded to the ceramic design and haven't had any issues so far. It is important to periodically check the level and visual quality of the oil in that resevoir. It could go up or down, turn brownish or milky white. Also, during my annual condition inspection I replace the oil in the system with fresh 2-stroke oil.

[Norm]

Pual Step by Step what is your procedure for replacing the oil. Thinking it's time to replace mine.
Norm

[Av8r_Sed]

From the Rotax Maintenance Manual-
"Renewing of the rotary valve lubrication oil (582 UL DCDI /mod. 99 only) Drain oil completely. For complete emptying, the engine must be inclined.

Afterwards refill the oil tank. Allow some time for settling. Crank the engine by hand several times to vent the system.

Fill tank to max. mark and after a short trial run verify the oil level again."

I loosen one of the hoses at the engine and bleed out the oil, refilling the reservoir as I go to try to avoid allowing air into the system. It might make sense to bleed from each side but I usually don't do that.

[Norm]

Thanks for the info. Looking at changing oil to synthetic and curious about the way you do a change. because of the change of oil type I may have to drain complete and then refill.
Norm

BTW for beeryboats

Make sure you do a 8 min warmup every time you start up. If you don't you risk a cold seizure. Even after a flight if you shut down for 10 or 15 minutes do a 5 to 8 minute warmup again. It is a matter of trying to make sure that the crank and case match the temp of the pistons. As well you want the water to match temps in rad and engine. The 8 minute warm up is one of the most important rules for running a 582. The other important rule for greyheads is using Silicate free antifreeze. (orange stuff) Good Luck. I have about 500 hrs behind 582s now but have had a couple of motor outs by not following my own rules.

[Av8r_Sed]

+1 on the warm up. I don't fly until it hits at least 150 water temp and usually I wait until I see the thermostat open (temp increases and then you see it fall by at least 10 deg). By the way, install a thermostat if yours doesn't have one, again to prevent cold seizures.

[beeryboats]

Thanks for the warm-up tips. Now that I've been in the diesel turbo business for a few years I've learned all about warm up and cool down periods. Not to be sexist, but most turbo cars burn their turbos up by women that do door to door errands and never let the turbo cool down before shutting off the engine which turns off the oil supply.

I spent hours last night removing and tagging parts off the engine. What a mess compared to a four stroke "aircraft" engine. I basically removed the fuel and water systems. I have not touched the ignition system yet. Still trying to figure out how to un-hook it from the airframe. I assume it will go to the engine shop for O/H with the engine? And I have a handful of cables that control the carbs that need sorted out.

[skyraidertom]

I am in the process of building a kitfox with a 582.
Paul,I like your idea of a thermostat.
Where do I find the parts needed to install one?

[Av8r_Sed]

I used an OMC boat 160 deg thermostat (Sierra # 18-3558) which only costs around $15. I drilled about a #40 weep hole and oriented near the top when installing to allow purging the air out of the system.

The required gasket is the spendy part. I didn't find an alternative to the rotax part. I believe it's Rotax PN 230 800 which goes for close to $30.