Elevator Bearing stuck

[bushfly]

Ok I am new and just starting my kit this month. I reamed the holes for my 93021.000 bearing on the Horizontal Stab. Then I put loctite RC680 on it and started to press it in with a C clamp. It wet in over 2/3 in... Now it is stuck. Picture attached. Any suggestions? I am also afraid now to do the other ones. See picture.

[jtpitkin06]

This one is easy...


Locktite 680 is for permanent installation; but, that doesn't mean you can’t get the bushing out. You just need heat. A good heat gun will get things warm enough to break the bond. However, that heat will also bubble any powder coating. Not a big deal. Just paint it when your bushing repair is complete. It all gets covered with fabric later.


You will need to make a puller/press to get the bushing out and resize it. Even though you reamed the hole the proper size, many of the bushings are oversize making the bushing way too tight as you have discovered.


Use a short 3/8 inch bolt as a pusher inside the elevator, a 1/2 or 9/16 socket to fit over the protruding bushing, and a c clamp to press out the bushing with the heat applied.


Re-ream the elevator to clean out the residual 680. Put nut and bolt through the bushing as a mandrel to hold it in a drill press. Measure the bushing with a dial caliper. Then use a hand held file to size the bushing to fit the hole. It should go in with firm thumb pressure. The 680 will hold it in firmly when you are ready for permanent installation.


Be sure to ream the inside of the bushing after it is installed.
That’s about it. Pretty simple fix.
John Pitkin
Greenville Tx

[Sabre]

I had a bearing do the same thing although mine was the result of not being quite square. I removed the bearing by taking a hacksaw blade and cutting it so the end was narrow enough to pass through the ID of the bearing. I cut most of the way through the bearing and grabbed the protruding bearing end in with something like channel locks and the bearing will collapse pretty easily and pull out.

[Paul Z]

I concur with John Pitkin, I would first try doing some things to prevent damage to the paint. Maybe torch heat a Bolt that fits into the busing until it is red hot pick it up with some pliers, and push it into the bearing on the end sticking out until seated against the bushing. It may require a hammer because the bolts will grow in diameter. Then I would take a punch and try to drive it out with a hammer from the opposite end. If that doesn’t work then go to the method of a heat gun that will damage the Powder Coat Paint. Heat is the only thing that will break the bond.

[n85ae]

This is a good idea.


I had a bearing do the same thing although mine was the result of not being quite square. I removed the bearing by taking a hacksaw blade and cutting it so the end was narrow enough to pass through the ID of the bearing. I cut most of the way through the bearing and grabbed the protruding bearing end in with something like channel locks and the bearing will collapse pretty easily and pull out.

[bushfly]

Thank you all for the advice. It is appreciated.

[Danh]

Been there, done that.
Lots of great advise in here

[SilverFox5]

Hi, I have also just started a series 5 kit and am a first time builder.
This is my first post and I am new to forum's so I'm sorry if I don't know what I am doing.
My question has to do with this same 93021.000 bearing install. Where in the instructions does it tell you to install these with RC680 Loctite? I have read this in multiple posts and cannot find it in my instructions.
(I should note that my instructions & kit were originally sold in 1994)
I also looked at the S7 assy manual on the Kitfox website and i see nothing there that mentions that these need to loctited in.
Am I missing something?
Joe

[efwd]

your certainly not alone there Bushfly

[Esser]

I think all of us builders have been there done that on these bearings the first run through

[efwd]

Pointers are sometimes offered through the build manual. This little extra instruction would be a nice addition to Notes in the manual.

[SilverFox5]

Thanks Josh!
Yes I missed that little picture simble.
I will look at my old assy manual and see if it is listed on my print.
(Probably is)
I'm guessing this is from a newer manual.
Now the problem, do I try and remove these and start over?
Joe

[SilverFox5]

Just as an FYI, no my print does not show the Loctite symbol. My guess is that came later for liability reasons. Because these are press fit bearings and if installed properly they should not require Loctite. And because some builders would not have experience installing them correctly they might spend to much time with the reamer thinking they need to make them slide in essier. Trust me, the ones we installed are never coming without a bfh.
(As a note, when I say we installed them, I am building this kit together with my brother)
Which brings up another question, can two names be listed for the mfg name at final inspection for certification?
Joe

[PapuaPilot]

Sorry to say, but just one person can be named as the builder. That person can also become the repairman who can sign off the condition inspection, but only named builder gets that privilege.

[David47]

Just as an FYI, no my print does not show the Loctite symbol. My guess is that came later for liability reasons. Because these are press fit bearings and if installed properly they should not require Loctite. And because some builders would not have experience installing them correctly they might spend to much time with the reamer thinking they need to make them slide in essier. Trust me, the ones we installed are never coming without a bfh.
Joe

The Loctite will be there for couple reasons. First, it provides a bond between the welded bush and the first bearing/bush you install. Sometimes, you can get o/s on the welded bush ID by getting too excited with a reamer or the ID of the tube was o/s in the first place, so you don't get a good press fit. You need that to make sure it doesn't rotate. The plan is to make sure the inner bearing does the rotating because it's a softer material. Second, the Loctite can act as a corrosion barrier between the two dissimilar metals. The last thing you need is corrosion in primary joints and bare 4130 Chrome Molly steel doesn't handle corrosive conditions well.