582 Rotax Winter Flying

[582Rotax]

Hello everyone would like to start out by saying that I purchased a Destiny flying machine this June and absolutely love flying it. The jetting is perfect for the summer MN temps around here 75-80 degrees. I would like to convert the jetting so I can safely fly in the winter temps of 20-25 degrees. My question is do I have to change the needle jet and the Main jet? IF so by how much? would anyone have a chart that I would be able to look up what size jets I should order. Thanks and any help is much appreciated. PS I am at 1100FT

[Danzer1]

It's not quite that simple. 1st it makes a difference if you have the intake silencer kit or not. 2nd, we would be assuming you have the factory carb parts in it to start with and at the factory settings.

There are 4 hard parts affected in carb tune - main jet, idle jet, needle jet and jet needle. And jet needle clip position and air screw turn out.

Having said that, the difference in temperature is about 3% - all other conditions being the same. As temperature goes down your engine runs leaner, so you would need to richen it up. Usually you can either adjust the air screw to get a richer idle and/or the main jet 3% larger to get there. So lets say you have a 165 main jet, you would then want a 170 to get 3% richer. So it depends on whats in there now (and assuming it is running correctly).

That would be the starting point, once you start messing with carb tune, one thing can lead to another and it can get frustrating. Also when running/adjusting in cold weather - make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up to operating temp.

[Av8r_Sed]

You'd want to drop to a lower needle clip position first (richer) and see how that works for you. If it isn't enough, reference the Rotax Main Jet Correction Chart to calculate the proper jet. Given the temps you've mentioned you would probably go up about 3% in size. If you were running the stock .165's it would put you at a .170 from the available choices. It's pretty much based on keeping your mid range EGT's in check at around 1100 to 1150 F.

[Mnflyer]

Hi 582 Rotax, I,m also from MN when my plane had the 582 for cold weather flying all I did was raise the needle (as AV8R posted move the needle clip down one notch) this will enrich-en the fuel mixture for winter flying, I never needed to do anything with the main jets. I'm thinking you saying +20* to 25*F flying if your saying -20*F or more well I'm not sure about that. Have fun and good flying are you flying with skis?

[582Rotax]

Yes I have skis that I will be using to fly from a lake. I am going to wait until we get some 30 degree weather before I try flying. Not to thrilled about this minus 15 as our high for tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys and I will start by dropping the needle clip down one notch.

[Dave F]

Hello everyone would like to start out by saying that I purchased a Destiny flying machine this June and absolutely love flying it. The jetting is perfect for the summer MN temps around here 75-80 degrees. I would like to convert the jetting so I can safely fly in the winter temps of 20-25 degrees. My question is do I have to change the needle jet and the Main jet? IF so by how much? would anyone have a chart that I would be able to look up what size jets I should order. Thanks and any help is much appreciated. PS I am at 1100FT


Raise the needle by lowering the clip one notch. You did say it was running perfect in summer. I assume plugs were a nice light brown then ?
Try that and check plugs. EGT 1100 to 1200 @ 70F OAT is acceptable
EGT you might see a bit higher in winter even with needle clip change.
@ 25 F you can run 1150 to 1250 without issue but like I said verify by plug colour. I never change jets from stock -- it really people splitting hairs I think.


Hope this helps and have a blast

[Danzer1]

You can just change the needle clip height but be aware that jet needle and needle jet only control mid-range power (approx. 25% to 75%).

You can still be lean at idle through 25% and full throttle - 75% to 100%. If you limit your operation at the outer ranges, your temps MIGHT not suffer much (and your plugs and other leaning effects).

If you want to adjust idle - the air screw can usually be adjusted to allow less air (richer) maybe a half to full turn. If still hot at idle (through 25%) the idle jet or as some call it the pilot jet, would need to be changed (this is rare).

If changing the clip position at mid range does not get it to richen up enough, the needle jet is the limiting factor (only so much fuel can get to the needle to atomize it), no matter how far you move the clip. If that's the case, the needle jet would need to be changed (this is rare).

If you run at 75% to full throttle often, the only way to change a lean condition is to change the main jet - no other change will effect WOT fuel delivery.

So, see how it goes with your operating style and conditions. And as Dave says, the only true way to "read" lean/rich is to look at the spark plug. To do that under each of the conditions listed above, is time consuming and the engine must be "chopped" (from the throttle condition being tested - idle, 50%, 100%) down to off to get a good "reading" on a clean, cleaned or new plug.

Also note, the percentages given are approximate, there is overlap, for instance the main jet starts kicking in at about 50%, but provides all of the fuel delivery at approx. 75%.

Greg

[Dave F]

You can just change the needle clip height but be aware that jet needle and needle jet only control mid-range power (approx. 25% to 75%).

You can still be lean at idle through 25% and full throttle - 75% to 100%. If you limit your operation at the outer ranges, your temps MIGHT not suffer much (and your plugs and other leaning effects).

If you want to adjust idle - the air screw can usually be adjusted to allow less air (richer) maybe a half to full turn. If still hot at idle (through 25%) the idle jet or as some call it the pilot jet, would need to be changed (this is rare).

If changing the clip position at mid range does not get it to richen up enough, the needle jet is the limiting factor (only so much fuel can get to the needle to atomize it), no matter how far you move the clip. If that's the case, the needle jet would need to be changed (this is rare).

If you run at 75% to full throttle often, the only way to change a lean condition is to change the main jet - no other change will effect WOT fuel delivery.

So, see how it goes with your operating style and conditions. And as Dave says, the only true way to "read" lean/rich is to look at the spark plug. To do that under each of the conditions listed above, is time consuming and the engine must be "chopped" (from the throttle condition being tested - idle, 50%, 100%) down to off to get a good "reading" on a clean, cleaned or new plug.

Also note, the percentages given are approximate, there is overlap, for instance the main jet starts kicking in at about 50%, but provides all of the fuel delivery at approx. 75%.

Greg

582 do not have the lean issues that the 503 does

Most 582 will run 5500 to 6000 rpm which put this in the main need range.

Thee is little power under 75% power