IVO ultralight prop on 912/80HP

[tommg13780]

I am getting to the FWF portion of my Speedster project. My used engine has threaded bushings which protrude forward and look like they are pressed into the prop flange. I'm trying to use an IVO 3 blade ultralight. Does anyone have experience with removing these bushings? The bushings are on approx. 4" diameter where the holes for the IVO are at approx. 3" diameter. This motor was originally mounted on a Searey pusher configuration, Unknown propeller.

[HighWing]

I overall installed them. They are pressed in. I am wondering if using a length ofand tube that would fit over the flange a bolt and a stout washer they could be backed out with a wrench.

[Dave S]

Lowell's suggestion is the way to go - this prevents any potential distortion of the prop shaft flange. A person could either use a bolt that engages threaded flange nuts if there is sufficient room on the back side of the prop shaft flange or a smaller bolt that slips past the threaded flange nuts to wrench from the front.

DS

[Geowitz]

I just used a "C" clamp and pressed them in/out with a socket placed on the backside that was larger than the stud. the clamp squeezes against the front of the stud and the socket on the back of the hub which pushes the stud through the hub and out the back(into the socket).

[tommg13780]

I just gave it a try with the c clamp and used the box end of a wrench for spacer. They seem very tight. I'm wondering if some heat like propane or mapp gas would be ok. Tomorrow I'll get some correct size and length hardware and give it another try. There's not much clearance between the flange and gearbox housing. Thanks for the comments

How about using progressively larger drills to take away the metal from the inside until they move?

The trouble I have is very limited resources for metal work and just enough experience (or lack of) to do more harm than good.

[Geowitz]

I believe i used an 8 inch C clamp wich seemed pretty stout for the job but i still had to use a cheater to turn the clamp to push it out. With heat i might have concern over hurting the front seal, but i imagine with care even just a little heat expansion on the hub would definitely help. Might be a little rust in there too.

The studs are pretty hard. I can't imagine drilling being much fun. Especially with 6 of them. I would try harder with the clamp and heat before i went to drilling. It will seem like a lot with the clamp, but as long as everything is square with the hub you're not gonna hurt anything. Like i said. I had to use a cheater for more leverage on the clamp screw, but eventually they popped.

[mr bill]

Be very careful with heat, it can ruin heat treat as well as seals. I soaked the bushings in dry ice for half an hour (liquid nitrogen would work even better) and quickly used a large C clamp with a ratchet socket. In no case, remove any metal from the crankshaft or the bushings.

[tommg13780]

I'm pleased to report that the bushings are all removed. I settled on using $6 worth of nuts and bolts along with a 3/4" Dia X 1" bushing out of the drawer at Lowe's. My 6" C clamp was squirming and I didn't feel like coughing up $75 for a good 10" clamp at the welding supply store. So all is well and I'm looking forward to getting beyond this little task. Thanks again for the helpful suggestions.

P.S. NO HEAT, NO DRILL

[Geowitz]

Cool beans :)

[mr bill]

My advice was for installing new bushings after you removed the old ones.

[WWhunter]

To remove the bushings in my flange I placed a socket that was slightly larger that the insert. Then I threaded a bolt (with a washer) through the socket into the insert. Screwing the bolt in drew the insert out. I may have squirted a bit of WD40/LPS on it beforehand.....it was last year so my memory is not 100%.

To put in the new ones I did the same thing but from the opposite side of the flange. :)