582 Oil Injection ?

[Rmendler]

Hi all, I recently purchased a Kitfox IV-1200 with a 582 and oil injection.I have been told the oil injection is flowing 100:1. How can I confirm this?

If you remove the lower rear cowling there is a round dial labeled 1-10 for the oil injection and the current setting is 3.5. 1 meaning less flow and 10 meaning max flow i assume.I am currently mixing 100:1 in the fuel and filling the injection tank which is supposedly at 100:1 for a mixture of 50:1.

I am also considering removing the system all together.Any help would be appreciated, I have found nothing in my manuals supplied with the airplane

[Av8r_Sed]

I've found my oil injection system to be very reliable. I don't pre-mix. The pump arm should be actuated by a cable tied into your throttle to be able to adjst the rate of injection according to engine speed. I don't know of any other adjustment on the pump.

Here's a link to a Mike Stratman article on oil injection: http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part45.pdf

[Rmendler]

Thank you for that link. I'm going to drive to the airport and get some pictures of what I am talking about.

There is a circular shaped valve with numbers on it and a dial you can turn. It clearly has oil going in and out of it as you can see through the clear oil lines.

It's had me puzzled for a few days now but it seems like the aircraft is running super rich.

[t j]

There is a circular shaped valve with numbers on it and a dial you can turn. It clearly has oil going in and out of it as you can see through the clear oil lines.



If you haven't left for the airport yet...that sounds like a fuel pressure regulator for an electric fuel pump. Check to see if that is what that valve is. The oil injection lines are tiny in comparison to the fuel line.

[Rmendler]

The dial is for the mikuni fuel pump. I'm not sure what it should be flowing, I've only used it to start the engine. I haven't needed to use it in flight

I found some issues when i pulled the carbs off a few hours ago.

For starters, the oil injection is setup wrong. At idle (3,000rpms) or with the throttle completely closed, the alignment marks are completely off.

The cable which actuates the lever is way too short and has no more adjustment to it. Hence the lever alignment marks not aligning properly.

The oil injection lever does not move smoothly and it will not return to the idle position on it's own, it requires manually nudging it with your finger to return it to the idle setting. The return spring has very little tension to it.

Pulled the plugs out, they arent horrible yet but they have around 3 hours on them and have some signs of fouling, probably because the engine is getting way too much oil.

This is the injection lever at full idle cutoff. The alignment marks are off. When the throttle is set to actual idle of 3,000RPMS this mark is way off.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb64/350z-photos/OilInjectionLever1_zpsd3da2095.jpg (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/350z-photos/media/OilInjectionLever1_zpsd3da2095.jpg.html)

Here is the linkage at full throttle, it hits the cable mount slightly, it will not return to idle completely when I pull the throttle back.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb64/350z-photos/OilInjectionLever2_zps1ba1066f.jpg (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/350z-photos/media/OilInjectionLever2_zps1ba1066f.jpg.html)

Here is a plug I pulled after idling, taxing and doing a runup to 6,200RPM's
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb64/350z-photos/SparkPlugNo3_zps604fc5f6.jpg (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/350z-photos/media/SparkPlugNo3_zps604fc5f6.jpg.html)

Fuel pump adjustment, wish I had some more info on what the settings are.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb64/350z-photos/FuelPumpAdjustment_zpsa54eba5f.jpg (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/350z-photos/media/FuelPumpAdjustment_zpsa54eba5f.jpg.html)

This is the oil bath level after I leave the airplane alone overnight. I have to top it off before I start the engine each day. If I run the engine it doesn't affect the level, only when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a day or two.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb64/350z-photos/OilBath1_zps2ecbb2f8.jpg (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/350z-photos/media/OilBath1_zps2ecbb2f8.jpg.html)

[t j]

First thing to check on the too short oil injection pump cable (Bowden cable) is the other end of that cable on the throttle reverser bellcrank under the panel above the left side rudder pedals. Is the end of the cable housing seated well in it's slot on the end of the bell crank? Big feet like mine kick it out if I'm not carefull and that pulls the oil pump inner cable and lever to the rich side even at idle. Picture below.

The oil pump lever return spring may need some more preload. Can you make another wrap on it?

The fuel pressure range for the Bing 54 carbs is 3 psi so yours set at 3 is corect. For what its worth, the mikunie pulse pump puts out the correct pressure for the Bing 54's with no pressure regulator needed. Are you sure there is not an add on electric pump in series or parrallel with the mikinuie? Tht would explain the addition of the fuel pressure valve?

The oil loss from the Rotary Valve reservoir is kind of mysterious to me. It could an external leak in a hose or fitting. You should be able to see that if it is the case.

Or, a crank shaft seal leak next to the oil pump/water pump cross shaft inside the engine. That usually blows the oil out the vent in the reservoir cap while the engine is running though.

[Rmendler]

the oil bath leak is in a lower seal according to an A&P's inspection. I was told it is no issue and just to check the level after each flight. the only time it seeps is when the engine is cold.

the bowden cable for the oil injection pump is just too short, I cannot lengthen it at all, it is fully adjusted out. Just looks like somebody installed the wrong cable. Even with the kink removed from the cable, it still will not let the oil injection lever return to idle settings.

the local A&P just told me to remove the gear from inside the oil injection pump and plug the fittings on the bottom of the carb inlets. It should fix all the complication :rolleyes:

[t j]

the local A&P just told me to remove the gear from inside the oil injection pump and plug the fittings on the bottom of the carb inlets. It should fix all the complication :rolleyes:

You will need to keep oil in the RV valve reservoir. It lubes the RV disk and the cross shaft.

[Rmendler]

yea i got some instructions on how to do it. Does anyone make a block of plate to completely remove the pump? Or is there a need to keep it on?

[t j]

yea i got some instructions on how to do it. Does anyone make a block of plate to completely remove the pump? Or is there a need to keep it on?

My only experience with removeing the oil injection on a Rotax with a Rotary Valve Intake is my 670 Ski Doo and I replaced the entire Rotary valve cover with an after market cover with no pump cut out. Here's one for a 582 but expensive.
http://www.lockwood.aero/c-183-valve-cover-oil-pump-drive.aspx the one on the bottom of the page.

The top diagram shows a small block off plate and gasket with part numbers but no link to the plate part number.



the local A&P just told me to remove the gear from inside the oil injection pump and plug the fittings on the bottom of the carb inlets. It should fix all the complication

Be sure to plug all the holes from any fittings you remove. I would talk with someone running a 582 without the oil pump to be sure I had it set up correctly. There are a lot of people doing it and they swear it is much better.

[Rmendler]

Wow that is expensive. Good to know that block of case is available, thank you for the link.

I'm still weighing some options.

I'm also looking into the HACman kit for the Bing 54 Carbs. Does anyone have an experience with this? The airfield I am at is at 3,300msl and to climb over the first mountain ridge to get down the mountain I have to climb to about 6,000msl. I feel like having some more adjustability would really help that little 582

[Av8r_Sed]

I installed the HacMan system last fall. I was having trouble keeping my EGT's in check. After putting in the system and increasing the main jet size, I'm finally able to dial in the EGT's to the magic 1100-1150 degrees pretty reliably at cruise power settings. I think it's pretty worthwhile on a 582.

[Rmendler]

I think it may be the next mod, the EGT's hold right at 1,000 on the ramp, even during a runup. The CHT has a hard time getting in the green

[avidflyer]

You said the CHTs have a hard time getting into the green, do you mean the water temp? You can be really asking for a cold seizure if you go to full power with a still cold engine. Does the engine have a thermostat? Take care, Jim Chuk

[Rmendler]

No, I do not run the engine up until atleast 120 degrees and no flight until 140 degrees on the water temp gauge. The coolant system does have a thermostat.

The CHT rides the yellow/green line when on the ground and the EGT's were staying in the high 900's. At 300ft MSL the EGT's hold around 1,050 degrees. Bringing the aircraft to 3,300msl really seems to have changed the EGT's. I was hoping the carbs would compensate without rejetting.

[avidflyer]

I don't think most people have a CHT gauge on a watercooled engine. I know I never did. Water temps will tell you enough about that I think. As far as EGTs, if depends on what RPM you are talking about. If your EGTs are 1200 at 5500 RPM or at full throttel the cure is different in each case. Midrange mixture is controlled by the position of the circlip on the jet needle, full throttle mixture is controlled by the main jet. Read part #10 tuning the bing carberator in the back of the CPS catolog entitled Proper care and feeding of the Rotax motor. It will explain how the bing works and how to live with it. Take care, Jim Chuk

[Rmendler]

I was actually reading that info earlier. Good stuff and thanks for the info.

The CHT gauges run off terminals mounted to the base of the spark plugs. So basically you just stick them on the spark plugs and screw them in.

[Av8r_Sed]

It's pretty unusual on a 582 to run CHT probes like those. Usually you have one water temp gauge and the two EGT'S. I'd recommend adding a real water temp gauge if you can.

What type of panel instrument are you using? I started with a Westach quad analog gauge but found it to be pretty innacurate. I switched to a MGL E1 which I've been happy with.

[Rmendler]

I'm unsure of the brand, it is a quad gauge with EGTx2 and CHTx2. I have a seperate Water Temp gauge with its own sending unit, also unsure of the brand.