Esser's Build [Archive] - TeamKitfox Forums

Esser

07-26-2012, 09:55 PM

A note on this thread: Last year (2017) photobucket, the site I was using for third party hosting of my pictures quickly and with no warning decided to not host pictures unless I paid a $400 fee. Not liking their business tactics, I declined. After talking to the moderators, they have allowed me to go back into this thread and add my pictures in. The format will be different with all pictures showing up and the bottom of the post instead of between text. Because of this, things might not exactly make sense. I am also trying to match the picture with no reference to what was originally posted. I will do my best but there might still be slight inconsistencies. I hope you will still be able to use this thread as a resource. - Josh

Since I have been asking a lot of questions I thought I would start my own thread where people can follow along my progress and answer any questions I may have.

Sorry there are quite a few questions since I can't call anyone due to everyone being at Osh Kosh

My first question is that I am having trouble making things fit. The aileron bell crank was supposed to be installed with two washers in the inside of the bushing and one between the castle nut and the fuselage tab. I could not get the bell crank between the tabs with out switching to a 10L washer instead. And I could not thread the castle nut on enough to get the cotter pin in unless it was so tight the bell crank did not move freely. I took out the washer between the tab and the castle nut to get the cotter pin in with out the assembly being too tight. Is this OK?

I had similar issues with the elevator bell crank. Even with using thinner washers it is a tight fit and does not move freely even with out a nut on it. I tried filing some of the powder coat off to make it better but still no dice. Here is a video I took so you can see the bolt turning with the bell crank and how tight it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHg9hppErL8&feature=youtu.be

For the control column bracket, the plans called for a #30 drill and then for a 1/8th rivet to go in the hole. The problem is a #40 is 1/8th so the rivet would not fit unless I drilled up to the bigger size. I felt confident doing this do it being for control stops but is this type of typo something to expect? Or am I looking at it all wrong.

Here is a picture of the control column after being sanded for those who are interested.

Another question. In the instructions it told me to ream out the bell crank tabs to .1875 so I did but in the diagram it says tight fit .1865 but I had already reamed it to .1875. Is this OK?

I had to remove all the powder coat on the control sticks. I didn't know what to do for corrosion protection so I just greased them before sliding the other sticks on top.

Thanks in advance for all the answers. Hopefully soon I will have more progress pictures and less questions.

Josh

HighWing

07-27-2012, 07:36 AM

Josh,
Regarding the washer issue: I think the bolt selection was based on the overall length requirements on bare metal. The powder coating is pretty thick and adding that dimension to the overall distance can challenge the bolt that is included with the kit. From time to time, I would order one step longer bolts from ACS. I always had trouble ordering just one and it resulted in a nice selection of various length bolts in the common diameters. I would suggest getting longer bolts. Then too, I would order washers in hundreds 2-3 cents apiece and nuts in lots of 25s so I always had a fresh nut if I had to remove one more than a couple of times. Over time, I also accumulated a collection of pull rivets, solid rivets, clecos, etc.

The reamed hole issue is because the tab has much less bearing surface and to prevent wear there, the bolt should fit tightly to prevent rotation. I suspect you can accomplish the same goal, by putting a drop of high strength Loctite under the bolt head, If you grease the bell crank rather than the bolt when assembling there shouldn't be grease between the bolt head and the tab.
Lowell

t j

07-27-2012, 08:43 AM

I built a Classic 4 and had similar issues when I first started :mad:. Fuselage tabs sometimes had to be tapped jently with a plastic hammer to tweak them into place either for alignment or clearance/bolt length/washer placement/castle nut pins etc. Sometimes the bushing ends of the bearing fit parts needed to be touched a few strokes with a file for proper fit:).

I'm not familiar with new models of kitfox but on the model 4 any filing on the aileron bell crank bushing ends is done on the top end only. Then extra washer if needed is used on the bottom end to maintain clearance to the floor boards.

I used blue locktite under the heads of bolts to stop the turning bolt problem.

The #40 drill bit is used for 3/32" rivets. The #30 drill bit is used for 1/8" rivets. These drill bits are a hair larger than the rivet size for easy incert of the rivet. If you need to drill a rivet out use the fraction size bit for that rivet, ie 3/32" or 1/8" drill to minimize enlarging the hole.

You will want to get a can or two of touch up spray paint for your powder coated parts. As you have already found out, you will be needing to touch up more powder coated parts. It needs to be compatible with the covering system you are going to use. Back when I was building, the factory sold good high quality touch up paint to match any powder coating color.

inzersv

07-27-2012, 10:02 AM

Esser,
I received a small bottle of touch up paint for the powder coating with my kit. Check around to see if they sent some with yours. It was a small bottle with a brush attached to the lid, about an ounce or so. I use it for every nick or scrap that happens and for me that is alot.:(

Esser

07-27-2012, 03:58 PM

Esser

07-29-2012, 09:40 PM

My friend Matt came over and we sanded the ribs and once we were happy with the placement we tried our hand at Hysol. We learnt a few things along the way. When using Hysol it sets up in about 20-30 minutes to the point where its difficult to apply. We made a fairly large batch a first to do all of the horz stab ribs but we were unable to apply half that batch before it became too difficult to apply. The baggie idea is great for applying hysol. We did the ole finger method for the first run with ugly results. By the time we were done the horz stab we had very professional fillets. Nitrile gloves and lots of shop tools to clean up are a must.

Also when sanding the ribs, tape a piece of sand paper to the 1" tubing of the stab to make short work of fitting the ribs. Takes patience as it was a few hours to get them all in proper place.

Matt sanding away

The before picture

Matt cleaning some wayward Hysol

Our solution to a rib with a slight warp. Zip tie it in place! Also notice the HORRIBLE hysol job at our first crack at it compared with our later methods! Slight learning curve. Learn from our mistakes and fill a baggie with hysol and tape off your ends. Also apply all your hysol before you start trying to make a nice fillet. Once it sets up a little it's easier to shape.

A mostly finished product

I also installed the flapperon mixer assembly today but failed to get pictures. I would be interested to see some of your safety wire jobs on the flapperon mixer bolts as I had never wired before so I just went for it.

Cheers!

t j

07-31-2012, 08:07 AM

I would be interested to see some of your safety wire jobs on the flapperon mixer bolts as I had never wired before so I just went for it.

Have you found the "Hint's for Homebuilders" safety wireing video?
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1675022426001

Esser

07-31-2012, 09:40 AM

Have you found the "Hint's for Homebuilders" safety wireing video?
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1675022426001

I have seen the video but it is a good reminder thanks. I was more curious how people have wired it up since the entire bolt has the potential to turn both ways. I forgot to take a picture again of what I did yesterday.

Yesterday I planned to hysol the elevator ribs in but they were too warped. Since I had help we decided to jump ahead and tackle the vert stab ribs. We found that these ribs were a very poor fit. They had to be sanded out 1/8 inch each side on the back and the opening on the front was about 3/8ths in diameter and needed to be 5/8ths. After sanding for an hour we realized we would be more than all day just sanding these ribs so we decided to get creative.

Not exactly the right tool for the job but it was a perfect fit and sure saved a lot of time.

For the mouth we cut a piece of 5/8th cold rolled, wrapped sand paper around it, put it in the drill press at the slowest speed, and away we went.

None of my ribs on my horz stab needed stiffeners so I brewed up a batch of varnish and put a couple coats on. I had some left over and I knew I wouldnt be working on the plan for a couple weeks so I varnished the vert stab ribs as well. The problem is I hadnt put the stiffeners in yet. Now that these are varnished will it be a problem to sand the ribs and hysol my stiffeners in? I wasn't really thinking.

Thanks!
Josh

jiott

07-31-2012, 06:39 PM

Don't forget the invaluable Dremel tool with a variety of attachments: cutoff wheels, sanding drums, etc. I hope you have one; they are very handy for the type of work you are doing with the wood ribs. I have used mine continually thru the whole project.

Gluing Hysol on top of varnish-not the best idea. Your joint strength will be only as good as the varnish adhesion to the wood. Varnish is a coating, not realy a glue like Hysol. Probably no big deal on rib stiffeners but I sure wouldn't do it on important things like wing ribs glued to spars.

Jim

Esser

07-31-2012, 07:34 PM

Hey jiott, I do have a dremel but none of the sanding bits I have are small enough to get into these places. I havent been abel to find any that are less than 3/4. I have tried to cheat with the stones but they end up getting gummed up and arent meant for the application. As for hysolling the varnished ribs, they were epoxied to the frame before varnishing. I just need to add ribs in the vert stab and was wondering if sanding will work or if the varnish goes too deep.

Cheers

inzersv

07-31-2012, 09:08 PM

I did the same thing and varnished some of the ribs and stiffeners before bonding. I sanded (roughed up) the area on the ribs and stiffeners that needed bonding and then applied the Hysol. That was about three months ago and they seem to be holding together well. Hysol seems to be good stuff.

jiott

07-31-2012, 09:59 PM

Dremel has sanding drums that are 3/8" dia. and 5/8" dia.

I think if you scuff sand down to the wood you will be OK. The book calls for 3 coats of epoxy varnish on the wood. That's a lot of varnishing and is a real pain, especially on the wings. I needed to wear a respirator while varnishing to avoid feeling ill, but I did the 3 coats.

Jim

Esser

08-06-2012, 09:18 AM

Well I was able to squeeze in a couple more hours of work on the plane before I flew back to work.

First off, when I epoxied all my horz and vert stab ribs in they were straight as an arrow and I thought I wouldnt need stiffeners. I varnished them because I was worried about the warpage but they indeed still warped. I'll chock it up to the great lakes 100% humidity and the the fact that I was only able to get 2 coats of varnish on not the required three. I am going to leave it for now but I am going to sand the ribs and put stiffeners on every single rib that isn't against the steel frame.

Since the elevator isnt installed I zip tied the push rod up so that it can swing free if i need to move the control column

So learn from my mistakes. Even though the instructions call for stiffeners on the ribs you find necessary, put them on right away. It might save you a lot of work since mine were very straight when they were first installed.

HighWing

08-06-2012, 10:39 AM

I am going to leave it for now but I am going to sand the ribs and put stiffeners on every single rib that isn't against the steel frame.

So learn from my mistakes. Even though the instructions call for stiffeners on the ribs you find necessary, put them on right away. It might save you a lot of work since mine were very straight when they were first installed.

I think what I would do in this situation and for that matter for all rib stiffeners regardless of timing is to make some half inch by half inch thin aluminum angles - maybe like .025". Cut then to the effective length of the rib and rivet them in place using aluminum rivets with a little Hysol at the rivet to seal the wood. There is no real force on the ribs except moisture warpage and gentle finger pressure will straighten them. No need to sand and I suspect a bit lighter than the wood stiffeners.
Lowell

Esser

08-06-2012, 11:04 AM

I think that is a great idea Lowell. The rivet on the rib wouldn't pull right through?

jiott

08-06-2012, 11:21 AM

As I found out on my elevator ribs, you need to put the stiffeners in even if the unstiffened ribs are perfectly straight. When you cover and shrink the fabric it will pull the steel tubing in slightly and buckle the ribs if they are not stiffened.

Jim

HighWing

08-06-2012, 03:50 PM

The rivet should be inserted from the wood side and the aluminum should keep the rivets from pulling through.
Lowell

Esser

08-23-2012, 07:06 PM

Well after a couple weeks at work I flew back home and started working on the plane again. I didn't get too much new done because my inch lbs torque wrench finally came in so I went back and torqued everything that I had flagged as not torqued. After tightening everything up I still wasnt happy with the friction on my control column bearing so I took it out and started sanding like a mad man. I'm not exactly happy with what I did too it and I may order a new one and start from scratch. It has no slop but I got a little over zealous and she isnt perfectly round.

When I move my stick forward the last 3 inches of movement has more friction than the rest. I spent several hours today trying every combination of why this may be and I still have no answers. It isnt a lot but I notice it. I am wondering if it is going to drive me nuts forever and I should get to the bottom of it, or if it is one of those things to live and let die.

I was getting ready to move on to the floor boards. In the manual it doesnt show where to drill the forward floorboard to the frame and there are no tabs on the fuselage. Does this just get mounted with the rudder pedal hardware? Or am I missing something?

I will take some pictures tomorrow as I dive into the floor boards and centre console!

As always thanks for your input.

OH! PS Lowell, my friend talked to his company AME(Aircraft Maintenance Engineer not a doctor in Canada) and he said that riveting the birch ply would split the birch in the drilled out hole and/or the rivet would eventually work itself loose through the hole. I was't able to ask him if the dab of Hysol would stop that...

HighWing

08-23-2012, 07:44 PM

[QUOTE=Esser;OH! PS Lowell, my friend talked to his company AME(Aircraft Maintenance Engineer not a doctor in Canada) and he said that riveting the birch ply would split the birch in the drilled out hole and/or the rivet would eventually work itself loose through the hole. I was't able to ask him if the dab of Hysol would stop that...[/QUOTE]

A suggestion, check the butt rib installation instructions. At least in the Model IV they are riveted to the brackets that attach them to the skylight through the wooden shear web. When it comes to rag and tube construction, in my experience, you have to take some of the things the licensed techs say with a smile and a thank you, especially if they spend their work day playing with aluminum. Just put the head on the wood side or if you are still a bit concerned, make some thin washers out of aluminum.
Lowell

Esser

08-23-2012, 07:49 PM

Thanks Lowell, will do. By the end of this build I'm going to have you on speed dial haha.

jiott

08-23-2012, 10:58 PM

I had some excessive friction on my control column torque tube that I couldn't get rid of by loosening the fit of the nylon bearing block. It turned out to be the mounting of the aluminum bearing box on the right hand side. The mounting tabs welded to the fuse tubes weren't all at the same level and when I torqued the mounting bolts down it put the bearing in a bind. The solution was to experiment with several washers of different thicknesses under the box to level it up.

Jim

Esser

08-24-2012, 05:24 AM

Esser

08-25-2012, 06:52 AM

OK, So yesterday was work on the floor boards and centre console day. I had some friends move home from england so I didnt get too much done.

First off I took Jim' suggestion and fixed about 90% of the friction I had. I had to put washers under three of the tabs Like so:

Next I started fitting the floor boards. A weld was a little high so I filed 'er down.

Filing down made the floor board fit much nicer. I did this on both sides.

Fuselage on the side ready to back drill the floor boards. If I were going to do this again I would centre punch the tabs and drill them, debur and then attach the floor boards and back drill. I did them all at once.

I assembled the flap and adjustable rudder pedal brackets for the centre console but I never really got farther than that for a couple reasons. A) I needed a long 1/16 drill bit to back drill the centre console to the tabs closest to the seat and B) I need to find some better 1/16th bits to drill the detent pins on the adjustable rudder pedal assembly. I guess it's a learning curve but I break those small bits frequently.

I'll keep you posted on what happens today.

ackselle

08-25-2012, 03:50 PM

Looking good! Keep us posted. ...planned fly date?

Cheers,
Ackselle

Esser

08-26-2012, 06:36 AM

Looking good! Keep us posted. ...planned fly date?

Cheers,
Ackselle

Thanks! I don't have a flying date set. My engine funds got eaten up because I have to pay for my wedding so that will set me back a year. I also don't get to work on it much due to my job. But I would say it is a fairly safe bet to seethe plane at Oshkosh 2015!

Yesterday I started with applying another coat of varnish. Wow that stuff has some fumes. While I was waiting for my second coat to dry I dove into assembling the adjustable rudder handles. Ran into some issues there,

Fitting up the centre console.

You can spy my very long drill bit to drill these two holes. I would say that drill bit its a must. $9 Irwin

Set and clecoed in place for functionality test.

I ended up have to file down each tab on the rudder brackets. I was getting friction on the detent pin. The flap bracket was fine.

The prefab kit comes with some beautiful pieces but you still do need to work them a bit to get things to fit. All the brackets had #40 holes predrilled in them. I don't know why this is because the instructions call for #30. So i had to redrill every hole and debur. Most of you know that drilling stainless isn't fun.

OK, Question time: I was making good progress and I mixed up a tiny batch of hysol to put between the console and the brackets. Once it was all ready I went to put my first stainless steel rivet it in and I could not get a rivet through any of the holes but one. Do I need to drill out the stainless to 9/64 to get a 1/8th rivet it? Believe me I tried to use some force to get them in and nothing helped. Is a pneumatic riveter worth it? One is on sale for $60 at princess auto and I am tempted to grab it.

What I learned: When it comes to drilling different materials do your home work. Learn about drill speeds before you ruin all your bits. You cannot drill stainless or cold rolled at the same speed as aluminum. Also when you are drilling the 1/16th holes in the detent pins go buy some good drill bits for this. I know it seems ridiculous paying $5 for a tiny drill bit but it will save you some cussing.

Thanks everyone.

Dorsal

08-26-2012, 09:41 AM

Looking good, I'm enjoying the thread.

TahoeTim

08-26-2012, 11:35 AM

jrevens

08-26-2012, 12:44 PM

OK, Question time: I was making good progress and I mixed up a tiny batch of hysol to put between the console and the brackets. Once it was all ready I went to put my first stainless steel rivet it in and I could not get a rivet through any of the holes but one. Do I need to drill out the stainless to 9/64 to get a 1/8th rivet it? Believe me I tried to use some force to get them in and nothing helped. Is a pneumatic riveter worth it? One is on sale for $60 at princess auto and I am tempted to grab it.

Esser,

Many "1/8" rivets require a #30 hole... check your assembly manual. For the relatively small number of rivets required in this project I think I'd put that $60 towards your engine, or maybe a set of numbered drill bits. The pneumatic riveter won't do a thing for an undersized hole.

Esser

08-26-2012, 08:50 PM

I don't mean to nitpic but when you added the washers, you lost the minimum two or three threads protruding through the nylock nut. (at least that's what it looks like in the photo)

You should replace the bolts with longer ones. One of the first things I bought when I started my kit was a homebuilders hardware kit for $50 from aircraft spruce. It's an assortment of nuts and bolts that I found very handy to keep the project moving rather than waiting for a UPS order.

Good luck. Get that engine!

Please be nit picky. That was a good catch. I actually have a set of AN hardware coming form aircraft spruce. This was the old nylock that wasn't good anyhow and I just wanted to see how it fit. But please everyone if you see something that doesnt look right let me know! I do appreciate it.

jrevens, I do realize that #30 and 1/8th are the same size. But the stainless steel rivets do not fit in the #30. As for the pneumatic riveter, noted. $60 closer to an engine.

cap01

08-26-2012, 10:02 PM

Actually a #30 drill and an 1/8 drill aren't the same size . The #30 is a bit larger in diameter

Av8r3400

08-27-2012, 05:08 AM

#30 - ø.1285"
1/8 - ø.125"

Believe it or not, that ø.0035" does make quite a difference.

Esser

08-27-2012, 06:44 AM

cap01

08-27-2012, 07:15 AM

If you've got a drill gauge you could see what hole the rivet fits in to see what size the rivet is and what drill is required . Or even mic the rivet . They don't use some wird size metric rivets in Canada , do they ?

rogerh12

08-27-2012, 08:18 AM

Your stainless steel rivet will always fit the #30 hole with bit of a push, unless something moved, or you have the wrong size bit (like Chinese bits can be) or your rivets are out of spec (or the wrong rivets). Double check your SS rivets, they come in different strengths, and there is really quite a variation, especially with respect to sheer. I found the supplied SS rivets to be too long for my model-4s push rod fittings, so I special ordered, and not from the usual aircraft sources as they carry only a limited selection of lengths (Jay-Cee Sales - RivetsOnline.com http://www.rivetsonline.com/ (http://www.rivetsonline.com/) )

Hope this helps
Roger

ClickClickBoom

08-27-2012, 10:02 AM

Esser,
Get yourself a copy of FAA AC43.13:
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentid/99861

While this is not easy reading it does answer many potential questions.

I have held a A&P certificate since the late '80s and this book holds a prominent position on my shop bookshelf. It covers everything from welding to electrical and just about everything one could ask. I would think that the McBeans would include a copy with every kit to save on tech questions that could be answered with a AC43.13 reference. If you want the holy grail of general repairmaintence manuals try to source TM 55-1500-204-25/1 it is the document that AC 43.13 is sourced from, without editing.
These manuals will fill in many gaps in the Manufacturers manuals.
eric

ClickClickBoom

08-27-2012, 10:41 AM

Good to know. I was always under the impression they were the same size. You really do learn something everyday. Any advice for the 1/8th stainless steel rivets that wont fit in the #30 holes I drilled? It is close but not close enough.
Hey,
Get a bunch of clecos, fill all the holes with clecos, clean out the hole you want to rivet with a #30 drill, deburr, and repeat for the rest of the holes. the clecos will simulate a rivet and will allow you to disassemble for cleaning out of shavings and deburring. After all the holes are filled with clecos go back and rivet one at a time.Fabrication is 50% technical and 50% technique.
Here is one of my non aviation projects using aluminum, solid rivets and some welding:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581708-rear-seat-delete.html
eric

Esser

08-27-2012, 05:06 PM

Thanks for all the input guys. I think either maybe the #30 bits were packaged wrong or the rivets are out of spec. The holes drilled are #30 and the rivets dont fit in them. It is not that the bracket is out of alignment. It wont even fit in the holes in the bracket with out the aluminum. All the holes were back drilled using clamps and clecos as I went. Either way putting the rivets in a drill gauge is a good idea.

I am back to work for 15 days so this will have to wait a couple weeks. I will keep you updated when I get back at er

As always I really appreciate all the input. Thanks for the links too. I will have to check out that book.

Esser

09-10-2012, 05:38 PM

Well I am flying home from work tomorrow so I should be getting the centre console fixed up on Wednesday.

I have been emailing Robert Helms back and forth and I thought I would pass these drawings on for you. These are for the UL520iS that I am 90% is going into the plane. My fiance is saying that she wants the 200 hp so I better make her happy.

The engine is lighter than an IO-240 and shorter than a O-235 so I think she will fit in with C of G. This is one of the things I wanted to talk to John about at Oshkosh but I wasn't able to make it. The only concern I have is, is the rudder effective enough for all the p-factor? What do you guys think?

Here are the drawings:

DesertFox4

09-10-2012, 05:58 PM

Has Kitfox Aircraft come out with a new model I'm not aware of?

200 hp. on a Kitfox? I would call that uncharted territory.

Esser

09-10-2012, 06:19 PM

Has Kitfox Aircraft come out with a new model I'm not aware of?

200 hp. on a Kitfox? I would call that uncharted territory.

I guess you could call it uncharted territory but if there is no weight penalty why shouldn't it be done? The S1 Pitts was designed for 90hp and the second builder upped it to 170.

Just aircraft has a UL520i that makes 180hp arriving in a couple weeks that they are putting into their Highlander. Why shouldn't a Kitfox keep up with the competition? It's not that I want to go fast. But I think when I put floats on it will be beneficial as well as high density altitude. It will be a similar size, power, and weight ratio as a 180hp Citabria.

I realize the safety concerns and what not but when I asked John about the engine his only concern that was expressed in his email was about a new engine that hasn't been tested. I have some really good people that are going to back me up on the development and testing of this.

Also like I said. 90%...I'm not gonna be stubborn if it turns into a bad idea.

Esser

09-13-2012, 06:09 AM

Quick update about the rivets:

My stainless steel rivets are too big. My 1/8 aluminum rivets fit in the holes fine but the stainless are too big. So I am going to order some new ones and try them when they come in. I might not get much done on the plane this week. I need to install a shower and finish my kitchen.

Josh

Esser

09-16-2012, 09:26 AM

So if you have been following you know I have a problem with the rivets. I bought a #30 reamer (super hard to find) and reamed out my holes that were drilled with a #30 and low and behold my rivets fit. So I mixed up a batch of epoxy and put my brackets in place.

Next I started working on the rudder pedals. Some advice for aspiring builders: When the instructions say to sand the powder coat under the bushing until you have a good fit you actually need to take the powder coat ALL off where the bushing sits on the torque tube and INSIDE the torque tube that has the rudder pedal welded on it which slips over the bushing. Sanding would take hours so the best way I think is to set up a wire wheel on your bench grinder. Once you have a frictionless fit the rudders go together fairly easy.

Centre Console installed with brackets riveted

Modifying the rudder horns for the adjustable rudder pedals

The top piece was cut off and then I ground down the bottom.

Natalie taking off the powder coat with a wire wheel.

Powder Coat almost off

I should have taken more pictures of the rudder assembly but I got caught up in what I was doing. Here are the pedals ready to be installed.

What is the best way to maximize legroom? I have heard that turning the master cylinders 90 degrees gains you an inch but I think John Pitkin was saying I actually would gain more comfort if I brought the assembly AFT. Any thoughts?

Anyhow this is all I really got up to this week. I am back to work tomorrow so there wont be updates for a couple weeks.

Esser

10-23-2012, 07:53 AM

Hello everybody, after a 5 week stint at work and a wedding I finally got back into the shop. I bolted the rudder pedals to the fuselage floor. The instructions call for 2 7/16 inched away from the front but I went with three inches because I actually find it more comfortable with my long legs when me feet are more at a relaxed angle instead of straight up and down.

I had a little issue where the outside brackets where almost too far apart for the whole pedal assembly to drill into the centre of the channel. So I drilled new holes in the factory bracket that were inboard of centre. So it doesn't look as good but the holes are now in the centre of the bracket which I thought was the most important since the way they were before which was so tight to the channel that I couldnt get a nut on.

So once I got that out of the way I installed the master cylinder brackets and the master cylinders. I swear airplane building is just a practice in extreme patience. My advice for the rudder pedals is to put the return springs on the pedal assembly before you install it to the floor.

After the pedals were in, I installed the pulleys behind the seats and then swaged and ran my rudder cables.

My question is, the nylon tubing that goes into the rudder cable guides, is it supposed to be hysoled in place? The instructions don't really say but a couple of them are fairly easy to pull out.

So all in all a pretty productive day. Next I want to work on installing the ribs on the rudder.

Pedal and master cylinders installed.

Rear pulleys and cables installed. Still need to put in the cotter pin cable keepers.

Hysoling stiffeners. I made a mess as the stiffener kept falling over when i was trying to clamp it.

MotReklaw

10-23-2012, 08:27 AM

Esser,
That's what I did. Hysoled them in place. I thought it said so in the instructions for the SS, but they are permanently installed now.

jiott

10-23-2012, 12:22 PM

I sanded down the OD of the plastic tubing until they fit fairly tight and had to be lightly tapped in, but cannot be pulled out by hand.

Jim

Esser

10-23-2012, 03:28 PM

I sanded down the OD of the plastic tubing until they fit fairly tight and had to be lightly tapped in, but cannot be pulled out by hand.

Jim

I will have to epoxy mine in. It comes in and out easily. Just a dab will be fine I'm sure.

I made it back out to the shop with Natalie. We removed some of our vert stab ribs that sagged out of place. The hysol was fairly easy to remove with a heat gun. It does not melt. You need to pry at it and chunks will fall off. I then hysoled some stiffeners in on the stab that I didnt have before. I also fit the rudder on so that I can line up the ribs perfectly.

Tomorrow I don't have a helping hand so I probably won't hysol the rudder ribs in since I find it easier when Natalie is around. I will probably fit the seat in and maybe sand the ribs to fit the rudder in the right locations.

The vert stab with a rib removed.

The rudder fit up

inzersv

10-23-2012, 05:45 PM

Hey Esser, what is that hotrod in the back bay? My best friend and I had one just like it when we were in high school in the middle 60's. So much fun.:D

Esser

10-23-2012, 06:51 PM

It's not mine, it's a guy that is keeping it at my place. I think it's an old bucket model T with a 350. Needs a bit of work but looks like it would be fun.

Esser

10-25-2012, 12:51 PM

My phone died before I got all the pictures taken but here are a few. I Hysoled all the rudder ribs in and I fixed the ribs on the vert stab that I took out. Then I fabbed up the angle for the inspection port. I didnt get the forward bulkhead done because I messed up a piece of the angle so I need to order a new piece. But other than that a pretty good day yesterday. I also trimmed up the seat and cut out the set belt notches.

Most of the ribs in the rudder.

Preparing to back-drill the aluminum angle. Can never have too many clamps.

Test fit before Hysol and riveting.

All done.

I also put in the 4 inches pieces on the lower rib but I didnt get pictures of that.

Question:

My rivet puller never ejects the used pin and it jams up. Is there a trick to fixing this besides getting a new puller? Can I oil it or something?

Jfquebec

10-25-2012, 03:49 PM

Good job my friend.....i think Il'l order the kit also for profile tail for my mk4,,,,

If i finish my fox before you ,i make a trip to see you,and if you finish first you come to my grass strip..:D. OK

Jf

Esser

10-25-2012, 04:46 PM

Sounds good JF

Esser

10-26-2012, 11:18 AM

jrevens

10-26-2012, 04:32 PM

I damaged my aluminum angle that came with the kit for the forward bulkhead. I can't find angle that small on aircraft spruce. Do i need to order a sheet and make my own? Or does anyone know where I can get angle that is .016 thick?

It's not extruded or "pre-made" angle Esser... it's bent up from flat sheet stock. Unlikely to find it from a supplier. You can make your own or order what you need from John & Debra.

Esser

11-02-2012, 01:53 PM

Can anyone tell me the part number for this T3 .016? I am going to order it from kitfox but I don't have my manual with me at work which is 4000km from where my manual is. Thanks

Esser

11-17-2012, 08:11 AM

Hello everybody. After a stint at work I am back in the shop with Natalie. My good friend Dustin, how has been living in England for the last year, came over to see the plane and give us a hand.

I started fitting up the fairing for the vert stab post. I had to do a lot of sanding of the ribs to get everything to fit nice. When every thing looked pretty good I whipped up a batch of hysol and put a nice bead on the post to bond the fairing to. I had it tight against the post everywhere but one spot, i didnt notice where the hole I cut for rudder hinge wasnt quite big enough and the fairing sat on a weld in that spot. A couple of C clamps fixed that.

Mean while, Natalie was cutting stiffeners for the elevator ribs. After the fairing was in, we hysoled the stiffeners in place. Then we decided to put the fairing on the rudder. Instead of a dremel to sand the ribs on the rudder like I did with the vert stab, I used a file. I think it did a nicer and really didnt take much more time.

I cut out the hinge holes in the rudder fairing but I think I went too big as where I though the hinges where were about 1/2 inch off. I am hoping this wont show.

Does anybody have pictures of the slots they cut in their rudder fairing for bolt access? I would appreciate it.

Dustin test fitting the fairing.

Natalie sanding the elevator ribs.

Rudder fairing fit and epoxied.

Another visitor pops by

Tail post fairing in place and curing

Today we are going to hysol the elevator ribs in and maybe start on the door frames. Even though I don't have much time to work on the plane I feel that things are moving along fairly nicely. I would guess that the fuselage is 50% done. I don't know how that translates into how much the entire kit is done but it is progress. I would guess 10% maybe?

In other news I took a new job in Edmonton starting January 10 so I have to move my life and my plane 4000KM. I should have more free time to work on the plane when I get there. So if anyone in the Edmonton area want to give me some insight on good airports or who just maybe wants to come look at my project let me know. And if anyone has any contacts in the corporate charter industry in Edmonton please let me know as Natalie has to leave her good job as a Conquest II Captain to follow me out.

Esser

11-18-2012, 07:50 AM

Yesterday we epoxied all the ribs into the elevator with good success. epoxying ribs is a much nicer job with two people.

After that we put the side stringers on. We were going to put on the horz stab on for the first time but before we bolted anything we decided to wait til the elevator was cured.

Preparing to bond

Natalie riveting the side stringers in after hysol and microballoons

My friend Adam stopped by. He is building an RV8

I will probably put the bottom stringer on today and maybe start on the door frame.

kebopa3

11-18-2012, 08:57 AM

Keep the photos and commentary coming. I'm scheduled to take delivery of my kit in Feb. Waiting is hard but watching your build and the others has helped minimize the agony, as well as being educational.

Kebo

wheelerg

11-18-2012, 01:03 PM

I bought my Kitfox already built but this is a neat build string to follow, lots of info i would like to know but never had the cance to see it done, keep the info coming......
Gary

chefwarthog

11-18-2012, 06:58 PM

Josh!!! You dont know what these photo do to me, I follow your progress step by step and it's fun... :rolleyes:

For my part the dream coming one step at the time!!! finishing my flying course and bilding my garage..... the fondation is done!:D

I will have a 24'x32' floor to work my project and the ceiling will be cathedrale to store the kitfox up in the air when it's finish!!;)

Esser

11-18-2012, 08:18 PM

Very Nice JF. You have a lot of projects on the go.

Today was a frustrating day. I have a lot of parts to order from the Mcbean's. I cut my door angles too short. For anyone who is about to do the door frames, the instructions arent super clear. Study the pictures in John Mcbean's photo album that is on this website. I will save you a fair bit of head scratching. Once you get the idea it is fairly straight forward. Unfortunately for me I did not follow my own advice.

I started off today by installing my bottom stringer. Straight forward install. My advice for anyone about to do this is have your wire on the stringer and cross tube loosely put still twisted up. Once you put your epoxy on the stringer, tighten the wire.

After that I worked on the horz stab bushings for the elevator that I had been neglecting. They required A LOT of OD reduction even to have a super tight press fit. Chucked on a drill with 120 and then 500 grit sand paper brought them down fairly quickly.

I played around with the rudder fairing and trimmed up some holes. The hinges arent contacting anywhere any more. I am not looking forward to rigging that up with bolts at final install. Not an easy location.

Stringer with wire. I had to cut this off because I forgot the Hysol in between

The instructions call for drilling through the side of this but I couldnt even get my angle drill in there so I decided since its hysoled I would go through the top.

Side stringer after epoxy cured.

If your door angle looks like this you need to order a new one. It should be cut in such a way it reaches all the way to the frame.

Rudder fairing trial fitting

Im flying back to work tomorrow so that is all I got done for this week. Keep the commetns coming

AirFox

11-19-2012, 08:19 AM

Nice work Esser! Thanks for all the comments. I'm just about to the cover stage on my wings & will start my fuselage in December. Your pictures are very useful.

Thanks
Scott

Esser

01-08-2013, 11:09 AM

Well we made it to Edmonton. I really miss working on the plane since I havent touched it in about two months.

kebopa3

01-08-2013, 10:53 PM

Esser,
Glad you made it without any trouble.

I'm looking for rental truck/packing advice. I'm planning on flying into Boise next month to bring my kit home. Besides the 24' truck, how many blankets and how much rope or straps do you recommend that I get? I have the quick build wings along with pretty much all of the other options.

Also, I'm going to be going to western Washington if anyone along the way needs something picked up for them. I'll be happy to work something out.

Kebo

Av8r3400

01-08-2013, 11:54 PM

I rented a 26' "easy ride" U-Haul to transport my project from upstate New York to Wisconsin. I can maybe offer some advise.

1. Though they say easy ride, they definitely are NOT with only 5-600 pounds in them! I would have gladly put 500-1000 lb of sand bags in back to save my back.
2. Get as many packing blankets as you can find. They work well to cushion everything.
3. Buy/bring a ton of ratchet straps to secure things.
4. Save your fuel money and get diesel truck if you can, my gas truck got about 5 mpg even though it was mostly empty... :eek:

MotReklaw

01-09-2013, 01:46 AM

On the advice of the factory, we rented a 16" Budget box van. The floor is flat, no wheel wells. We rented two dozen blankets from the budget store. We also carried a suitcase stuffed with a bunch of foam from old sofa cushions. Around here the roofers use them in the hot summer to sit on while roofing. We also carried along all the straps and rope we could scrounge.

Pictures here:
http://www.rickscafe.us/saw/htmls/it%20begins.htm

Good luck!

kebopa3

01-09-2013, 07:52 PM

Thanks. I hadn't realize it would fit in a 16' box truck.
Kebo

Esser

01-09-2013, 09:19 PM

The nice thing about the Uhaul is that the wings fit really perfect on the walls.

But unfortunately uhual doesn't have diesels. Too many people put gas in I guess. I drove 2000 miles and spent $1000 in gas.

The uhaul does ride way better with more stuff in it. And it really likes to get stuck in the snow empty. Don't ask me how I know.

jrevens

01-09-2013, 09:38 PM

Kebo... can you make a "minor" detour on the way, and drop me off some Hysol in Denver? ;)

Esser,
Glad you made it without any trouble.

I'm looking for rental truck/packing advice. I'm planning on flying into Boise next month to bring my kit home. Besides the 24' truck, how many blankets and how much rope or straps do you recommend that I get? I have the quick build wings along with pretty much all of the other options.

Also, I'm going to be going to western Washington if anyone along the way needs something picked up for them. I'll be happy to work something out.

Kebo

kebopa3

01-10-2013, 12:08 AM

John,
Be happy to drop that off for you; as long as you are not not in a hurry and can wait until July. :rolleyes: I'm sure I'll be spending sometime in the Denver area a little later this year.

Esser,
I'm hoping the mountain passes and roads will be clear. If there is any question, I'll take AV8r3400 advice about the packing a load of sand home as well. But at the end of the day, I'm always up for an adventure. Which is why I'm building rather than buying.

Kebo

Esser

02-17-2013, 06:02 PM

Hello everyone, it's been a while with no progress on the plane due to my living situation. I have access to a garage that has no heat and is not insulated though and my question is what work could I do for two months that doesn't require any structural epoxy or heat to cure things in. Any ideas?

Dick B in KY

02-17-2013, 06:09 PM

Rudder pedal assembly and metal parts fab i.e. - flight control parts and assembly.

Dick B

Esser

02-17-2013, 06:12 PM

Hey Dick, thanks for the response but I already have that stuff done. I still need to do the door fames but thats all epoxy. Maybe I'll buy the ELT and wire that stuff in.

cap01

02-17-2013, 06:55 PM

given any thoughts to how the panel will be layed out ? I made the first one from lexan to check fit and function . the early model IV is a bit more of a challenge than the new models as there are frame members forward of the panel that limit where the long instruments can go . anyway at least with the lexan panel I had a plan before I started cutting metal .

HighWing

02-17-2013, 06:59 PM

I am currently working on some fairings and am using epoxy. I made up a curing oven from some Home Depot house insulation foam. I cut it to size and taped it together with regular packing tape. It is double thickness so I could overlap end joints for air tightness. All exposed foam edges are covered with the tape as it tends to flake off if abraded - and makes a mess. The top is hinged by cutting the top panel in half length wise and the hinge, once again is packing tape. I cut a round hole in the fixed part of the top and place a desk lamp over the hole so the heat from the light goes inside. It will get to about 90° tops so the fire hazard is very low. It will cure a batch of Hysol in about three or four hours and the glass epoxy in about six to eight depending on what I need to do next. Micro cures for sanding in about three hours.

It would probably take three sheets of the foam to make up an oven that would accommodate an elevator.
Lowell

jtpitkin06

02-17-2013, 08:23 PM

I love it when a guy takes ordinary materials and creates something totally unexpected. Very Clever!!! Low cost and very useful. Way to go Lowell!

John

Esser

02-18-2013, 08:06 AM

I like the idea of the curing box. I think all I have left though is mostly stuff that is actually attached to the fuselage.

I think I will work on the following things in the cold months:

Work on the extended baggage area, not sure if I want to go alum or birch ply yet.
Sand the extrusion lines off the strut fairings.
Order and install an ELT (Any suggestions on this would be appreciated, I tired to search ELT on the forum but it doesn't seem to look for three letter words)
Also, can I work on installing the acrylic on the doors in the cold? Or do I need to wait for the doors to be on? Please let me know anything you can think of.

As for the panel, we have a plasma machine at work so I will probably trade the guy a flight in exchange for him cutting my panel. I am 99% sure I will be going with the MGL EFIS. Not sure if I am going to go with the touch screen or the tradition but I am leaning towards the traditional at this point.

Pilot4Life

02-18-2013, 08:46 AM

Esser,
Here's a link to a thread on mounting the ELT. The ARTEX 409 is mentioned here.

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=3293

And another...

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=1880

Esser

04-28-2013, 04:34 PM

Well after a hiatus I am back at it. Didnt do too much today but organize my parts so that I still can't fin the part I'm looking for. Other than that I added my horz stab and elevator so that I can blend them when I add the foam tips.

I had to order more Hysol as mine froze so I am at a little bit of a stand still. When the hysol comes I will be installing the door frames. Maybe during the week I will install the rudder and swage the cables.

This isn't my permanent shop yet so I am not getting too comfortable here as I will be moving it all in 6 months. Maybe with more parts attached.

For the future, how do I torque this bolt and nut? I can fit my torque wrench and socket between the rib. Do I need to buy a crows foot set?

Glad I finally got a bit of an update.

AirFox

04-28-2013, 04:51 PM

Nice to see the update Esser. If you ever need to get some motivation just go fly with Paul @ Stick & Rudder. I did it last week and can't wait to get my kit done and fly it!

Scott

Esser

05-18-2013, 02:10 PM

Hello everybody. After a whirlwind of a week with the wedding everything, I got back in the garage. I am still waiting on my Hysol as I had delayed shipment because I didn't want to be in Ontario when it was delivered and have it get sent back accidentally.

Either way I decided it was time to hit the door frames. I took a lot of pictures for those who are about to do this. I have realized there is no right or wrong way to do this. Just make sure everything fits nice and there is over lap for the rivets. In fact you will see that I did the one side different than the other and it turned out fine. I was just trying to simplify the process.

Got the door latches on. You need a .280 drill bit for this FYI. Also there are some washers that come with this kit. I put the nylon ones between moving parts but the metal ones I had no idea where they went so I left them out.

That's all folks. My only questions are, should I rivet the stringer to the door frame and epoxy?

In the door latch instructions it talks about a strike plate. No detail and no part number. Anybody have any idea?

Thanks

jiott

05-18-2013, 03:00 PM

I believe you should Hysol the stringer to the backside of the door frame. It will stay in position by itself due to the tension.

The door latch strike plate is not in the kit and you are on your own. I did mine like the factory SLSA- After you have covered and painted the fabric that wraps over the bottom door frame, make a thin aluminum channel that snugly fits over the bottom door frame and clamp and Hysol it on. Make it the full length of the bottom frame and leave it unpainted. It acts as a scuff plate for getting in & out of the cabin and also serves as a strike plate for the door latch. The factory also puts a similar piece of channel over door frame that angles up from the bottom alongside the seat for extra scuff protection. It looks good done this way.

Jim

AirFox

05-18-2013, 07:01 PM

Esser,

I think the part number you are looking for is 11152.602. I plan on doing what Jim and the Factory do. Fabricate some aluminum c channel that gets hysoled to the door fram on the bottom and the rear angle of the door frame. Looks pretty good when finished.

4828

4829

On another subject. Anyone have any idea what this part is. It is powdercoated, but I haven't seen where it goes?

4830

4831

jrevens

05-18-2013, 10:12 PM

I used a rivet & Hysol. For the bottom door frame, I made a "cap" or channel out of thin stainless steel. I think that is what the factory uses. I had a piece of 0.015" shim stock that I used, It's hard to bend that narrow channel without a press brake & the proper tooling, but I got it done with my 4' pan brake. I didn't seem to have the striker plate material either, but Debra sent me a couple. I don't think that I will use it now.

Esser

05-20-2013, 09:39 AM

Hey Airfox, I haven't run into that part yet but I will keep my eyes peeled.

Yesterday we decided to put the landing gear on so we could easily pull the plane out of the garage onto the driveway so we can work on it in the sunshine. It took a little longer than I anticipated but it wasn't too bad. We packed the bearings with grease and carefully assembled the spilt rim so that we didnt pinch the inner tube. My 220v compressor is not hooked up in this garage so I roughly put about 5 or 6 psi in the tires.

Next we went to the tail wheel here is my problem. The mounting hole on the fuselage and the hardware supplied is much bigger than the whole on the macto tail wheel. See the picture below, but do I just drill the matco tailwheel to a larger hole? Or do I have the wrong tailwheel.

Any help would be great.

Matco Tailwheel bolt hole and large bolt. Do I just drill this out?

We have wheels! Now it look like we can go places haha.

kmach

05-20-2013, 11:36 AM

Hi, I put a Matco tailwheel on my model 5 . I drilled out the hole you pictured to match my tail spring, I have not had any issues in 200 hrs.:)

Esser

05-20-2013, 12:25 PM

Thanks Kevin, will do. You ever fly Edmonton way? Bit of a haul from your neck of the woods but if you are ever in the area let me know. Do you keep your plane in Regina?

Esser

05-20-2013, 04:33 PM

So today we put the rudder on to the plane and this is the first time I have had the rudder on at the same time as the elevator. As you can see in the pictures, there is a conflict with the rudder and the elevator. I had not previously touched the rudder stops. No filing has been done. Also, the stop to the right is worse than the stop to the left. The stop to the left is almost passable. It may just be too much when it is covered. Does anybody have any ideas to what I can do to the rudder stops preferably that doesn't involve welding? Let me know your ideas.

Thanks,

Rudder swinging too far to the right.

Full deflection left doesn't seem as bad.

Rudder stops.

Rudder Stops from the top

Rudder cables swaged together. Wish I had some shrink sleeves. I will see what I can put on after. Maybe a heat shrink tape.

Also, I enlarged my tailwheel hole and seems great so far. Thanks for the info Kevin.

jrevens

05-20-2013, 05:11 PM

I had the same issue. I like the idea John Pitkin had, where he added bolts & nuts to make the stops adjustable, but my left stop was just right, & I didn't have to cut off any of the material on the fuselage. I just added a small stainless steel shim, riveted & bonded to the stop on the rudder itself. They are now both identical in travel & clearance with the elevator.

kmach

05-20-2013, 05:49 PM

Thanks Kevin, will do. You ever fly Edmonton way? Bit of a haul from your neck of the woods but if you are ever in the area let me know. Do you keep your plane in Regina?

Hi,
I haven't been into Alberta yet with the fox, did go to Kindersley flyin breakfast last fall, lots of people from Alberta were at it including Wannafly from Lethbridge in his Model 4 Speedster.
I plan on doing some more of the flyins.Who really knows where I might be headed;)
I keep my model 5 on my small ranch on Loon Creek, 26 NNE of Regina, field is registered,CLC4 , LOON CREEK AIRFIELD , in the CFS. Small aircraft always welcome.:)

kebopa3

05-20-2013, 07:37 PM

Esser,
Here is the picture John P. posted showing his solution. His text indicates it can be adjusted as needed after covering. It seems to be the simplest solution.
http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3552&stc=1&d=1339075942

Kebo

Esser

05-20-2013, 07:44 PM

This was me and Natalie's first idea but we didn't come up with a good solution on how to adjust the bolts once it was covered. Maybe I will try to find John's post and read up on how he did it.

jiott

05-21-2013, 12:04 PM

Just keep in mind that the rudder stop position CHANGES as you adjust the rudder hinge rod ends in and out for final clearance with fabric etc. If your rudder stops are fully adjustable after cover like Pitkin's it is no issue, but if not it is very much an issue. Ask me how I know.

Jim

Esser

05-27-2013, 05:27 AM

Well, I was in the garage a lot this weekend but it doesn't feel like I got much done.

I was flirting with the idea of rigging up the wings this weekend but will the garage being as small as it is and it pouring rain half the weekend, I only got the strut attachments on. I almost finished putting on my trim actuator but I am missing the links from my prefab kit. I guess when you move, some parts go missing unfortunately. I guess I will end up fabbing them up myself.

My parts were labelled wrong and I had to end up switching the strut attach.

This called for a washer and then a nylon washer. I had no room so I just put in the nylon washer. I am assuming this is OK?

This bracket doesn't make sense to me. What is it for? And is this the correct installation for it?

The drawing called for 4 washers in between the mounting bracked and the rod end but I had room for zero washers as you can see. I am also assuming this is OK to install like this?

Wings ready to go. I am going to take off my gear again so it is easier to level.

This picture didn't turn out and is a little blurry but you can see I suffered a scrape on my spar. This must have happened at least 3 months ago when I was moving. What is everyone's thoughts on this? Is this ok? What do I need to do to fix? It looks like just the surface but I want to be sure.

jiott

05-27-2013, 05:20 PM

That bracket on the lower part of the trim actuator strengthens the pivot joint to a greater degree than just the cast housing alone.

I would personally recommend really carefully considering that scrape on your wing spar. The "book" says any ding or scratch more than 0.005" deep is not acceptable. It also depends where the ding is; near the ends of the spar is not quite so critical. In the mid portion of the spar is the worst place because the bending moment stresses are highest there. Remember, those spars are the ONLY thing holding you up in the air.

Jim

Esser

05-27-2013, 05:51 PM

I'll see if I can grab a pit gauge from work tomorrow and see the depth. To me it seems like perhaps just the anticorrosion coating is scuffed. I took a better picture for everyone to see.

HighWing

05-27-2013, 08:36 PM

I would think the exact location might affect the decision. Example: If it is on the shear web portion and within the bounds of the insert, I think it wouild be fine. If it is on the bottom cap strip and outboard of the insert ???

Esser

05-27-2013, 08:38 PM

I will get an accurate measurement tomorrow but it is about 10"-14" from the root on the top of the front spar.

inzersv

05-27-2013, 09:12 PM

Esser, I talked to John McBean about the striker plate and he told me that it really doesn't apply to the Super Sport. So I didn't do it. I don't think he has it on his either if I remember right.

Esser

05-28-2013, 04:26 AM

Thanks Stan,

I was wondering with the new door frames if it was not necessary...

HighWing

05-28-2013, 11:03 AM

I will get an accurate measurement tomorrow but it is about 10"-14" from the root on the top of the front spar.

With the information given plus the photo, if it was my airplane, I would go with the spar. The location of the scuff - proximal to the fuel tank which will be providing some stiffness there, the nature of the scuff mark - doesn't look like a deep scratch that might act as a stress riser - I personally wouldn't have a problem with it. I am not an engineer, but I have seen a lot of the flexing of the wing in flight and with the location of the mark relative to the root end, the wing tank and the lift strut, not a problem to me.

Geowitz

05-28-2013, 11:37 AM

I completely agree with Lowel. Of all the Kitfoxes in the sky over the years there hasn't been, to at least my knowledge, a single failure attributed to this kind of damage... and I bet there are a bunch of wings out there with unoticed scratches. Certainly you should check it out and make your own determination, but you may be worrying about nothing.

jiott

05-28-2013, 12:18 PM

I agree with the others. I would polish it out with Scotchbrite, rubbing only in the direction of the spar.

You will still need a striker plate of some sort, even with the new SS7 door frames because the frames get covered with fabric and you don't want the door latch rubbing and fraying the fabric. Use a small piece of U channel over the fabric, or a full length U channel that will also act as a scuff guard.

Jim

Esser

05-28-2013, 12:53 PM

Thanks for all your input everyone. After talking with my quality control department at work they said the best bet is to remove the scratch by sanding so there are no stress points and then bobs your uncle.

jiott

05-29-2013, 07:48 PM

Do not use sandpaper, especially the kind with silica grit or something-check the Builder's Tips section in the front of the manual before you do anything.

Jim

cap01

05-29-2013, 09:48 PM

i can understand the part about polishing out the scratch but dont know how to " bobs your uncle "?

Esser

05-30-2013, 04:22 AM

Must be a Canadian saying. Bob's your uncle is usually said when you conclude a simple task or set of instructions.

As for the actually sanding of the spar, I was going to see how far I could get with a scotch pad.

cap01

05-30-2013, 07:41 AM

really a good idea not to use sandpaper . there are scotch-bright disks that are on a mandril for use with a drill motor and also brightboy wheels that are used with a drill motor . depending on the damaged area it could take a very long time or never with a pad to remove the scratch . bob the uncle .

Esser

06-07-2013, 09:22 PM

So I havent been very diligent in my build the past bit. I'm hoping to start rigging the wings tomorrow. I tried my hand at superfil and I kinda super sucked at it. I put too much so I had to sand a lot but i still managed to get low spots, must have been air pockets or something. Natalie started make wing stands for when we work on the wings more from plans we got from Tom Waid of his site.

Nat making wing stands

Fabricated the hinge parts for the door. Was pretty easy with just a hack saw.

Superfil Sanding

Natalie had to fly her plane to Athens during the week and got stuck there for 3 days....I should have been a pilot.

Getting ready to level the plane for rigging the wings. 2 - 2t bottle jacks which i drilled holes into and tapped to 5/16. I then cut 5/16 threaded rod long enough for the rod to go through the landing gear hole. So now my bottle jack is bolted to the plane for stability. The jacks cost me $15 each a princess auto. Should be faily easy to level.

Dave Holl

06-08-2013, 12:53 AM

I have found that you can smooth down the superfil before it sets too hard with IPA and that reduces the sanding!:)

Esser

06-08-2013, 08:03 AM

Hey Dave, thanks for the tip. The next time i used it I was going to let it set up a bit before I applied it. What exactly is IPA? I see you are in London, Natalie was in Stansted last night.

HighWing

06-08-2013, 08:19 AM

[QUOTE=Esser;31164]So I put too much so I had to sand a lot but i still managed to get low spots, must have been air pockets or something.

When using filler in small quantities, I usually spread it with a single edge razor blade. Actually it is a blade held in a window paint scraper handle. It usually takes a couple of applications - or more if the finish will be paint, but it minimizes the sanding part.

Esser

06-08-2013, 05:23 PM

So I rigged the wings today. After triple checking the measurements, something still went wrong. I think it may have happened when I filed the hole in the spar to just shy of 5/16. I may have favoured one side. Either way my measurements to the tail are 1/8th of each other instead of the same as they were when I marked them out and my string line ended up being 3/8"s farther out then when I laid everything out which is probably .25 of a degree or less. I don't know what happened. But I need some advice. So my 120" to tail measurements are within 1/8th of each other and I now have a slight forward wing sweep. Is this acceptable? Or do I need to go down a road of repair and start over again. I have attached some pictures for you to see.

Leveled is side to side and then adjusted the jack on the back for front to back.

One wing on

My fish mouth had weld on it that interfered with the assembly. Of course the wing was on before I noticed. So I had to file out a bit of the interfering weld.

Both wings on.

The slight sweep forward after the first hole has been drilled.

Another angle.

Full Garage. This house is just temporary til the house we bought closes.

So what is everyone's opinion about these wings?

AirFox

06-08-2013, 06:07 PM

if you sweep the wings forward for a heavier engine the string measurement is 2+". Your measurement is much smaller than that. You mentioned you were planing on using a ULPower engine. The weight of the engine if you go with the 6 cyl may require a forward sweep. Check with John.

Dave Holl

06-09-2013, 12:03 AM

IPA- Isopropyl Alcohol
As far as the measurement is concerned I would speak to Kitfox as I am
sure they will have experience of this? Is the measurement the same for both wings or just one side? I remember this task being a nerv racking experience but an 1/8 of an inch is not much compared to the total length that you are measuring that said I know we all strive to be as accurate as possible.

Esser

07-11-2013, 05:18 PM

Hello fellow Kitfox enthusiasts. Been awhile since I posted I know. I thought I would build more in the hot months but summer activities beckon. The last couple weekends I have been between BC, Ontario, and Alberta but it is all good because of the people I have been spending it with. A few weeks ago I actually went up flying in Edmonton for the first time since I've been here. It was a nice flight.

Onto the build:

I left off saying there was a problem with my sweep. I talked to John at Kitfox and he said the situation is definitely not ideal, but you can file out the hole where it needs to be and when you put the steel reenforcing plates on you fill the area where the bolt wont go with epoxy. As long as your steel plates are a perfect fit you won't have issues as these take the load. SO. If anyone runs into what I did, you have a little hope. But quadruple check instead of triple check before you drill. I had figured out what caused this for me. I forgot to put on the number one rib and bungee it tight so there was almost an inch of play. That is why I drilled in the wrong place. I also assumed that I was to drill direct top of the spar and this was not true either.

Moving on here are some pictures

[/URL]
My one tank had this bad corrosion. It is almost sticky and I can't get it off easily. Any thoughts?

The other one for comparison

Needed to move the spar attach just a little bit without going too far. This strap worked perfectly.

Starting to look like something. At one point the neighbour walked over and asked if that was an airplane. I had to bite my tongue when I wanted to tell him , No, It's a time machine.

[URL="http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps6be2e40c.jpg.html"] (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps0288dc6b.jpg.html)
Bought some more clecos for the spar attach fittings.

After I rigged up the washout and the dihedral, the spar attach was no longer on centre line. What ever makes it fly good. I was going to drill both of the rivets in the centre on the line that the other rivets are on but I realized after I drilled the first one to the side that if I did that with the other one, the rivet puller would not fit.

That's All Folks!

Jfquebec

07-12-2013, 05:23 AM

I Josh...good job ...but.....just for make sure,i my builder book,he said " do not drill " this two holes in center of lift strut bracket...it is just for centering to I beam in the spar....i hope you dont drill through the web of the I beam..:rolleyes:.....maybe im wrong...but in my book it write in 3 place " do not drill"....

Jf

Esser

07-12-2013, 05:40 AM

Hey JF Thanks for your concern. The place where they tell you not to drill into the centre is the REAR spar attach fitting. The FRONT one which the picture is taken of, is clocked 15 degrees or so towards the rear spar. So if you look closely at my picture, there are two lines drawn. The second line to the furthest right is actually the centre of the spar. So those two holes are not drilled into the webbing. However, you are entirely correct about drilling the holes in the centre on the REAR bracket. That will go right into the webbing of the spar.

Jfquebec

07-12-2013, 06:00 AM

good.......i feel better..

Esser

07-13-2013, 07:21 PM

And 4 hours on a Saturday later: (Warning - It's messy.) This could go WAY faster if you had someone dedicated to pulling out clecos while you rivet.

Jfquebec

07-14-2013, 06:25 AM

Good ....it.s coming...

Esser

07-14-2013, 05:15 PM

Didn't get up to too much today...

[/URL]
Tanks getting ready for a rinse. Everything came out looking good except some rust as I mentioned in the other thread.

[URL="http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps8b507e23.jpg.html"] (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps369db780.jpg.html)
False ribs on. Top and Bottom.

Esser

07-17-2013, 08:00 PM

Got the reinforcing brackets complete on one wing. A kitfox builder who has gone past this point will notice something different here...

Esser

07-23-2013, 08:05 PM

So I am trying to attach the butt ribs and when I get the 1/16th spacing on the top of the ribs the bottom is out 3/16". I measured top and bottom of my Number 1 rib and the measurements are equal and this happened to both sides of the plane. So I dont know if the number 3 rib was a little cocked and thats why my measurement is off? Or maybe the butt rib tabs are bent.

I have added a picture so you can see but either way I think that I need to either, A) Sand the flange on the top of the number on rib until I can get the spacing to be even top or bottom. B) Bend the tabs that attach the butt rib until the spacing is even.

What are your thoughts?

jdmcbean

07-23-2013, 08:53 PM

Josh,
set the butt rib to the number one rib and the tabs on the fuselage need to be bent up to the butt ribs... Basically tweak the tabs to work match the butt rib.

There is also some rust remover you can get at a NAPA (auto parts) store. It's like a gel solution...

The corrosion is not un-common if the cap was sealed with tape.

Esser

07-28-2013, 08:44 PM

Thanks John,

After some rainy weather I had enough blue sky to unfold the wings and finish up the butt ribs. All I have to say to builders that are coming up on this is to verify that your brackets are all flush with the butt rib after you find your spacing. I needed a bit of tweaking but once I knew what to look for it went a lot smoother.

My photobucket account isn't working tonight for some reason so there are no pictures sorry!

Next up is installing the wing tanks but I am waiting on some Dow 739 form Kitfox which I don't think I will get until every one is back from Oshkosh.

Until then I will add the fittings to the tanks and dry fit everything up.

Question: For those of you who chose to prime your spars inside and out, at wait point of he build did you do it? I will be adding the composite leading edge soon and I want to have everything primed but I also figure that I will still bond the extrusion pieces in.

What are you thoughts?

jiott

07-28-2013, 10:38 PM

I primed the inside of the spars right after the extrusions were riveted (not bonded) in. Do not prime the outside at this point because you don't want primer to interfere with bonding the ribs to the spars. You must prime the outside only after all ribs and drag braces, tanks, leading edges are bonded on.

Jim

Esser

08-04-2013, 08:55 PM

Thanks for the info, I figure I will prime when everything but the leading edge and the tips are on.

Here is a complete butt rib:

Sealing the threads. The vent line has quite the angle to it. Is everybody's like that? Or did the hoe not get drilled straight accidentally?

Jury Strut brackets bonded.

Jury Strut

This week I will pick away at getting the tanks in. I only have one more weekend before I move to our real house. The last 8 months have been a rental while we waited for our house in Ontario to sell so it will be nice to settle into my real garage.

jiott

08-04-2013, 09:20 PM

Esser,
I hope that picture of you tank fittings was not final. I believe the main fuel pickup fitting should be pointing aft, not down.

Jim

Esser

08-05-2013, 04:30 AM

I was wondering about that. Most of the pictures in the manual didn't even have that fitting on the tank and the one that did was not very clear. I will move it. Anything I need to know about this sealant to remove?

Esser

08-05-2013, 01:30 PM

War Eagle

08-05-2013, 03:13 PM

I trimmed both the butt rib and the number 1 rib. It is needed to clear the fuel line so it isn't pinched in closed or open position.

HighWing

08-05-2013, 04:28 PM

OK Quick help here.
The manual says to cut the webbing away from the number one rib to facilitate the rotation of the 90 deg fitting on the tank. My fitting isn't near to the webbing but it's more on the inside. Do I cut the cap instead of the webbing? Wont that end up getting covered in fabric?

I suspect this might be an instruction from the old days that hasn't been edited. Then, there was a straight barb that attached to the fuel line that went through the web. I think you are right in that it should be the cap strip that is cut.

One thing you might also consider. I learned this while helping a friend modify a partially completed Series V that he was finishing. That fuel system was absolutely unmaintainable - Zero Access. You may want to remove the barb fitting periodically to allow access to the finger strainer in the tank. That is your first point of filtration in the fuel system. As designed, you will not be able to unscrew the "L" barb if it is simply covered with fabric. An easy way to enable the removal of the barb is to use a procedure in the Rans Manual. After covering, glue a wide U shaped piece of Lexan inside the fabric with the legs of the Y next to the capstrip and the U opening sized and positioned to allow for rotation of the fitting (through the plane of the fabric). After everything is covered and finished, cut the fabric inside the U to expose the fitting. The reason for using Lexan rather than aluminum is two fold. First, Lexan doesn't take a warp when cutting. Second, you can make a cover of aluminum and by drilling the mounting holes through the lexan undersized you can secure the cover with pan head sheet metal screws self tapped into the Lexan. I used the Lexan whereever a doubler was called for in the plans - around the lift strut attach brackets for example and where I needed any through fabric access - servos. This way, it would be easy to attach fairings for the lift strut to wing junction and allow for needed thru-fabric access in other places. I used Stainless #4 screws.

Esser

08-05-2013, 04:35 PM

Thanks for the picture War Eagle. That makes sense to me.

HighWing, I was thinking something along those lines. I haven't worked with fabric yet so I don't know it's limitations but it makes sense what you described. It would be nice if you had to swap a fitting or clean a screen or something.

jiott

08-05-2013, 06:00 PM

I agree, you need to cut the rib bottom cap so the L fitting can be rotated later for maintenance and also make some sort of access panel even if you don't actually cut the fabric until necessary. I just used a standard round access panel.

Jim

Esser

08-07-2013, 06:01 PM

Tank 1 is in...i forgot to snap a picture of the cut cap strip. I will snap a pic on the next one.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps8dbfd422.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps8dbfd422.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps767f3612.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps767f3612.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpse20783b8.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpse20783b8.jpg.html)

Esser

08-09-2013, 09:42 AM

Here is the cap strip cut so I can rotate it. I probably made it a bit bigger than I needed...

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsaa1212cb.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsaa1212cb.jpg.html)

dholly

08-10-2013, 03:37 PM

Picking nits but curious if using a drill to make the inside corners of those cutouts would be advisable, ie. a radius-ed curve vs. straight notch might better help prevent splitting of the capstrip or be easier on the shrunk fabric?

Esser

08-10-2013, 04:29 PM

I didn't think it would be a huge deal because all the bonding would be done on the cap. But it won't be hard for me to sand it round. I would be more worried about the outside corners.

Esser

08-28-2013, 01:07 PM

Well I am here still. After moving into the new house I had to get the garage ready for myself since this is the final stop in the move to Edmonton.

When we moved in, the garage had pretty bad lighting. So I fixed that up fairly decently then did the floors and the walls to give me a bit nicer of a space to work in.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/file_zps7921a817.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/file_zps7921a817.jpg.html)
Before

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpscc29dfde.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpscc29dfde.jpg.html)
After

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsea709f28.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsea709f28.jpg.html)
After

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsf8505f73.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsf8505f73.jpg.html)
Moving Day

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps4c358f89.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps4c358f89.jpg.html)
New work Bench half finished

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsa6db9408.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsa6db9408.jpg.html)
Cutting the false ribs for underneath the fuel tank. I sure wish I had a bandsaw for this one job.

Esser

09-16-2013, 06:54 PM

So here is what I have been up to....

Last weekend I decided my garage was too small to work effectively. So I tore out a wall in my shed and installed some big doors so I could find a home for my fuselage while I concentrate on the wings.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpscbd11dba.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpscbd11dba.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsddfb9e12.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsddfb9e12.jpg.html)
Doors on. Mower gone. Plane in.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps82128379.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps82128379.jpg.html)
Getting read to install the trailing edge.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsdf11412d.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zpsdf11412d.jpg.html)
Installed the false ribs. Used my cheap level as a straight edge to sand down which ribs ended high. Im not very patient when it comes to sanding. Good thing I'm not building a velocity.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps6ff075e0.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps6ff075e0.jpg.html)
Tank spacers in so the rib doesn't flex when I shrink the fabric.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps7d6dc507.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps7d6dc507.jpg.html)
Recruited some help with the varnishing of the ribs. Natalie and our friend Brittany.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps0d49b2c7.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps0d49b2c7.jpg.html)
A little off topic but these orange fences are the centre line for the new airport going in. In the far right you can see the D8 moving dirt. This is about 5KM from my house.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps93e3a8d0.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps93e3a8d0.jpg.html)
Before

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps97f9ca96.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/file_zps97f9ca96.jpg.html)
After. I didnt make quite enough to finish the second wing. Got half way through the first coat. I live in pretty dry environment but I think it is pretty cheap insurance especially when you think resale. Adds very little weight. I actually brushed this on since I didn't want to get over spray everywhere. My NACE level 1 inspector at work would probably have a few words to say to me if he knew I had brushed it. I am pretty happy with the end result. No brush strokes.

Next up is the LLE....after I finish coating the other wing.

AirFox

09-16-2013, 08:14 PM

Nice work Josh! Keep it up.

Scott

Esser

10-07-2013, 07:44 AM

Wow time flies. I can't believe it was over 3 weeks since I last worked on my plane. I have been pretty involved with this new airport that is going in so it is taking up some of my time. I feel that it will be worth it in the end.

Here is a shot of some progress at the new airport.
http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps80f1036a.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps80f1036a.jpg.html)
Cutting and filling the runway.

So last weekend me and Natalie signed up for the 16 hour poly fiber course that Gary Hillman puts on. We are really lucky to only live an hour and a half drive from Gary as he is the one who puts on many of the EAA sport air workshops, Sun and Fun courses, and next year he will be doing Oshkosh.

The course was amazing. I am so glad we were able to do it. It shows how forgiving the material really is. The course was 95% hands on with very little classroom time. I asked 100 questions as I thought about my project and now I feel very comfortable to cover and paint my own aircraft.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps58af15b0.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps58af15b0.jpg.html)
Getting ready to cover a DC3 aileron. This particular aileron was off of one of Buffalo Airways' planes(From . Our course was right next door to Buffalo's Red Deer hangar.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps172778f9.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps172778f9.jpg.html)
Natalie finishing up a ribs' lacing.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb4bad1ec.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb4bad1ec.jpg.html)
Gary showing some tips

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb5e97798.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb5e97798.jpg.html)
Gary demonstrating how to do a corner with a non-baised tape.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps86ab94eb.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps86ab94eb.jpg.html)
Nat working the tapes

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsc13e6bad.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsc13e6bad.jpg.html)
Gary demonstrating how to put on the first aerosol of Poly Brush

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps89c6a2f9.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps89c6a2f9.jpg.html)
Bob from BC trying his hand. Bob is about to recover his Tripacer that has 38 year old covering on it.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb9be7603.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsb9be7603.jpg.html)
First coat of Poly Spray. Gary didn't mix it up properly so we would know how it looked if we had forgot to get it shaken.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsc5cfdee6.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zpsc5cfdee6.jpg.html)
Gary demonstrating how to fix a repair.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps86579896.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps86579896.jpg.html)
Nice back drop for a course. Lockheed Electra

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps71e077a3.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/null_zps71e077a3.jpg.html)
The course was held in Air Spray's hangar. Here is a few of their Shrike Commander Bird Dogs that act as forward controllers during air drop activities. They also operate 15 Electra's in the fire suppression role.

Now I can't wait to cover.

mr bill

10-07-2013, 08:52 AM

You are a lucky man, my wife barely tolerates airplanes.

SkyPirate

10-07-2013, 10:56 AM

Mine too Bill, but she got me a model 5 for my birthday, so i cant complain too much

rosslr

11-01-2013, 01:07 PM

Esser

11-02-2013, 09:37 AM

the new strip looks great - private venture? I assume that is where you will fly from? We are lucky here that we have a 800m strip that our council is happy to lease us land a have let us build a hanger - all just 5 mins walk from home!

What is your latest thinking on the UL engine Esser? I was considering the 350is -same story form John about not enough proven yet. I understand that and it does make me swing back to the rotax - I liked the 912 setup on JB's witht he inflight adjustable prop. Seemed to get a lot our of the engine.

cheers

r

Hi Rosslr, the new strip is a private venture but open to the public. It's about a 5 minute drive north from my house. Phase one is 30 hanger lots and they have been sold out for over a month.

As for the UL, i have been following it closely. I am still going to go with the UL however, I will not be going with the 350iS. My wife tells me I have to put in the UL520i. I am not putting the iS in that way that way I have a little more choice with fuel. I have a friend who is an engineer for Pete Mcleod racing that will be designing my mount. If there is anyone else interested, let me know. There are some nay sayers about the engine and a few growing pains, but I am confident by the time i need an engine it will be all sorted out. There is now a company that makes IFA props for the UL so I will be watching them to see how they perform. But most likely I will be going with a fixed pitch climb prop from Catto.

Until recently, I was still considering going with a 914 but the cost is actually at the point where it is insane. If you have any specific questions about my set up, let me know.

Esser

12-15-2013, 03:13 PM

Well after 2 months with out lifting a finger on the project, I decided something had to be done. I move the wings into the basement where it is nice and toasted as I never got the new garage door and furnace for my shop.

I bought a little work bench on sale for $80 bucks and it works pretty good but it is a little under sized. But that is OK because I am planning on doing light work on the wings, tips, leading edge, flapperon brackets, and that's about it.

So today I just cut my leading edge pieces and epoxied them on. Next time I venture in the garage I think I will fit my leading edge but only cleco it, and then work on the tips.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/8CCBB677-FE02-4FF2-B670-95A3A2BA9BAE_zpsast6vou4.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/8CCBB677-FE02-4FF2-B670-95A3A2BA9BAE_zpsast6vou4.jpg.html)

Finally got flying again after a hiatus since I started building. Felt really good. I need a few more hours before I am on the insurance but my wife is insured and if she's feeling nice we go up and knock the rust off my hands and feet. Last weekend we went and it was about -25 and a beautiful day for flying.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/F709DA03-0E62-4D2B-B890-E72E5B44428A_zpsyqiuv4hv.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/F709DA03-0E62-4D2B-B890-E72E5B44428A_zpsyqiuv4hv.jpg.html)
Our house

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/635A31B5-2D8D-4211-ACCE-1DF5FEA1981B_zpsvbhlhhmv.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/635A31B5-2D8D-4211-ACCE-1DF5FEA1981B_zpsvbhlhhmv.jpg.html)
Blurry but getting down into the river valley

Esser

12-17-2013, 08:04 PM

Well one piece of the leading edge is trimmed and ready for cleco's. I can't actually hysol these in place until my pre-close inspection in done.

Here is a picture of a tape line and using my oscillating tool. I think this is a must for cutting fibre glass.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/1D9EE74C-1885-47D9-997E-635FB851D863_zpsqfpr2jkf.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/1D9EE74C-1885-47D9-997E-635FB851D863_zpsqfpr2jkf.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/35C282C3-8B72-47FC-923F-C1CFF7003ACB_zpso5vtpdza.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/35C282C3-8B72-47FC-923F-C1CFF7003ACB_zpso5vtpdza.jpg.html)
Trimmed and fit.

There was actually quite a bit of trimming. The pieces are quite oversized and they are a rough finish and very sharp. So watch your hands when you are doing this. I actually wish they were cut in a shear before they were shipped and then all you would have to do it cut to length.

My goal is to do one of these pieces a night however tomorrow I won't be able to work on the plane due to work.

DesertFox4

12-17-2013, 11:08 PM

Esser- it looks great and your right about that oscillating cutting tool with fiber glass. The Laker Leading Edge is an option I think we will see being installed on a great many new Kitfoxs in the near future. It really completes Harry Ribblet's vision for the Kitfox wing.

Esser

12-20-2013, 08:52 PM

Got the second one fit up tonight. Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the second wing fully trimmed and clecoed on. It takes about an hour per piece. I could speed that up a bit but I am taking my time so that I'm not constantly trimming.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/9F771F89-5D1E-486A-BA00-306F7E82DAD8_zps7zgrlj4c.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/9F771F89-5D1E-486A-BA00-306F7E82DAD8_zps7zgrlj4c.jpg.html)
One wing fully trimmed.

Dorsal

12-21-2013, 05:41 AM

Nice work, makes me want to take my wing apart and put on the LLE.

cubtractor

12-21-2013, 08:35 AM

Nice job!!

rosslr

12-21-2013, 02:51 PM

Thanks for the pics Josh - the leading edge looks very nice. I'm glad we ordered them. The pics of your house and the river flying were great too! What plane was that you were in? Do those planes just stay out in the snow all winter? I cant believe that! Having worked in Antarctica for a year I have seen the damage that snow does to vehicles left outside.

Anyway, I would appreciate you slowing down for a couple of weeks while I catch up!!

cheers

ross

Esser

12-21-2013, 04:01 PM

We were in a Cherokee 140. It's owned by the guy that flies with Natalie. Yeah, a lot of planes are left out side but they all have wing covers, cowl covers, cabin covers, and tail covers. Go out and brush off the snow once in a while. When you pull the wing covers off you have no ice to deal with. A lot of guys have a big rubbermaid container behind their plane where they store their covers while the fly. The covers are almost like tent fabric but heavier for the wings. And the engine cover is insulated so that your block heater can keep up. It was about -25C that day we went out.

But the majority of planes out here are hangared. But hangarage is stupid expensive around here. I know a guy paying $1200 a month for a heated spot for his DA40.

Hey, I have some momentum again, I'm not slowing down if I can help it. I will hit a bit of a wall when it comes covering time.

Here are a few pictures I took today:

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/AAFB141D-5F5F-4316-A6F9-5E9A88907C63_zpszzvmjxcp.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/AAFB141D-5F5F-4316-A6F9-5E9A88907C63_zpszzvmjxcp.jpg.html)
Marking my cut line

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/2A0B6746-10A5-45C3-ACD0-2490F9101A14_zpsibydtifk.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/2A0B6746-10A5-45C3-ACD0-2490F9101A14_zpsibydtifk.jpg.html)
Along the edge. That Aluminum piece need to be cut off so I can fit the tips.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6DB5B003-D532-4C07-8DC6-9A11DD07B55D_zpshwsi3r4x.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6DB5B003-D532-4C07-8DC6-9A11DD07B55D_zpshwsi3r4x.jpg.html)
Makin room

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/ABB6A618-91F9-4281-B5A4-CE22244B14F1_zps8i55tbbc.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/ABB6A618-91F9-4281-B5A4-CE22244B14F1_zps8i55tbbc.jpg.html)
Key Lime, great template for the fuel tank.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/B3C24AEC-F1D5-4CC7-B6F6-60B956C88880_zpsoaamjqkb.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/B3C24AEC-F1D5-4CC7-B6F6-60B956C88880_zpsoaamjqkb.jpg.html)
Finished.

I can't epoxy them until I get a preclose inspection. I might be able to get away with it because you can see from the bottom but I don't want to risk it.

On one wing I trimmed the bottom a little too short so it doesnt fit under the fuel tank well. I will jsut have to use super fill to give it shape.

Esser

12-21-2013, 09:18 PM

Pretty productive day. I finished tonight off with adding the wing tip mounting strips one the left wing.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/AB8B1CA7-EB5D-4DF0-879F-B111636F2FA5_zpsl8atf6g1.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/AB8B1CA7-EB5D-4DF0-879F-B111636F2FA5_zpsl8atf6g1.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/334E1A5B-31EF-44C1-99CE-060C48BCE4B4_zpsvmt6jmzp.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/334E1A5B-31EF-44C1-99CE-060C48BCE4B4_zpsvmt6jmzp.jpg.html)
There wasnt much room to drill into the aluminum so it's pretty tight on some edges. because its going to be slathered in epoxy I dont think it will be too big of a deal but I wish the #10 rib was offset like the butt rib to give you a bit more meat to play with.

SkyPirate

12-21-2013, 10:11 PM

Looking good!!

chefwarthog

12-23-2013, 07:51 PM

Esser... those pictres will be helpful when stating my own plane....

I spoked with John about a contruction video..... it sould easy the task!!??

Keep those photos comming through!!;)

Esser

12-30-2013, 07:50 AM

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/582967F2-7923-4DF3-97A1-140EA3BC8BE6_zpsh661xaf8.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/582967F2-7923-4DF3-97A1-140EA3BC8BE6_zpsh661xaf8.jpg.html)

OK Tip is on. Sort of. I think I am not going to drill the holes until the fabric is on or else the tip will move 1/32 of an inch. Or is this negligible?

Also, what have you other great kitfox builders done about the Leading edge and how it is raised up above the tip as seen in this picture?

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/D5940F7C-D9EB-4E90-8095-7B620CA5FF23_zpscayd72ec.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/D5940F7C-D9EB-4E90-8095-7B620CA5FF23_zpscayd72ec.jpg.html)

Do you file it down on the rib? Or do you super fill the tip?

And lastly, I am trying to get everything to fit perfectly but when you are filing to finish by hand it is never a perfectly even line. Will I go insane if I try to get this to fit better than this? It bugs me but will I even notice when the plane is done?

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/DB648EB6-A629-4013-BF29-0CA39233E654_zpsonnj6fiq.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/DB648EB6-A629-4013-BF29-0CA39233E654_zpsonnj6fiq.jpg.html)

AirFox

12-30-2013, 08:31 AM

Josh, The Fabric, Finish tape, shrinking and Paint will change the edge of the rib quite a bit. I think you could get away with your final wing tip trim after painting the wing.

Scott

cap01

12-30-2013, 09:33 AM

scott is correct . in fact it takes some work to get the fabric to stick down making the sharp bend at the edge of the rib cap

jiott

12-30-2013, 11:53 AM

It is nice, but not absolutely necessary, to drill and rivet the alum strip to the rib before you put on the final finish tape. This hides the rivet heads nicely.

Also, after you get all the fabric and paint on the rib, the wingtip joint will be more uneven than it is now. One way to fix this is to put a shim strip of something (I used some of the windshield self adhesive thin foam) on the aluminum strip before you slip on the wingtip.

Jim

Esser

01-01-2014, 10:54 AM

I tried to get to my fuselage yesterday which is in the back shed....Looks like i'll have to wait til spring to pull it out.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/7F4DF397-45A5-4C23-8CCE-66198BCC4FCC_zps3v9hrwav.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/7F4DF397-45A5-4C23-8CCE-66198BCC4FCC_zps3v9hrwav.jpg.html)

mr bill

01-01-2014, 11:43 AM

It snows in Canada too?

rosslr

01-01-2014, 12:29 PM

Maybe just put a bigger engine in the John Deere Josh!?

Esser

09-04-2014, 08:38 AM

OK, a long over due update.

The fuselage is still in the shed and the wings are still in the basement. I really haven't touched her in 8 months due to a series of life events.

But don't fear, momentum will be gained soon as I have partnered up with another local Edmontonian who is an AME (Canadian A&P). We have decided to go halves on the project and I know Daniel will be a great partner! I am sure he will have an account on teamkitfox shortly.

We have just acquired a used 914 with 75 hours on her and an Airmaster prop with Warpdrive blades. The guy who previously owned flipped his Pelican and it had a prop strike. The engine was sent to Rotech where the entire engine was torn down and gone through. The same treatment happened at Airmaster so we are very confident we will have no issues.

We also acquired a bunch of instruments and components in the deal so my initial panel ideas will change since we have so many instruments. One of the items we have is a Grand Rapids EFIS. I would love to hear if anyone has any experience or thoughts about this unit.

We are really excited about this set up and I think with this engine and prop combo the plane will be a blast especially in the rocky Mountains.

We won't be picking everything up for a couple weeks but here are a couple pictures.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/813ACEAA-DCFA-4D0B-8528-BFFE3BE68EBB_zps1on2enxv.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/813ACEAA-DCFA-4D0B-8528-BFFE3BE68EBB_zps1on2enxv.jpg.html)
Pelican Firewall

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/749AA2BF-90CC-45CF-BFC3-DB899FF5CA21_zpsyrfmuioh.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/749AA2BF-90CC-45CF-BFC3-DB899FF5CA21_zpsyrfmuioh.jpg.html)
Airmaster Hub

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/100B38E9-4FF3-42D6-B658-044B3E08936B_zps3npmmhtd.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/100B38E9-4FF3-42D6-B658-044B3E08936B_zps3npmmhtd.jpg.html)
Warpdrive blades

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/60081C03-584B-4663-87C7-74C5F66D98F4_zpsjjnvwx42.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/60081C03-584B-4663-87C7-74C5F66D98F4_zpsjjnvwx42.jpg.html)
914 in the crate from Rotech

kmach

09-04-2014, 09:09 AM

Hi ,

Good for you on finding the 914 and Airmaster prop, that should be a nice combination.

I am curious on what the combo cost you ?

Paul Z

09-04-2014, 09:26 AM

Too much snow & cold.

jrevens

09-04-2014, 11:37 AM

Those look great, Josh! The Airmaster sure looks like a good prop to me. I think you'll do real well with that combination!

rosslr

09-04-2014, 02:24 PM

Hey Josh! Great to see you back - it has prompted me to become active again and I too will post an update today.

Great combo there - that would be my choice if I could find an affordable option like you have found. As for the Grand rapids EFIS - does it have remote ADHS and compass also? I found that a fair bit of thought was needed to find good placement for both of these. Anyway, best wishes for moving the project forward and look forward to more updates.

cheers
ross
Mt Beauty
OZ

Paul Z

09-04-2014, 02:42 PM

I see you purchased th 914 turbo you posted, you will love flying behind that engine.

Esser

09-04-2014, 02:53 PM

Thanks everyone, Love to see the support. I think it will be a blast. Not that it wouldn't have before.

Ross, I'm not sure about the remote sender AHARS. I will keep you posted though when I find out more.

Kevin, PM sent.

Quick question for everyone. Do I need a full firewall forward kit if I have all the components already? Or can I just buy a motor mount and a cowl?

War Eagle

09-05-2014, 02:35 PM

I don't think you will need to buy the whole firewall forward kit because you will have a lot of the needed parts already.

The engine mount and cowling will be major components needed.

I can't see it in the picture of your engine but you will need the ring mount for the engine as that is what attaches to the engine mount off the fire wall.

If your engine has the ring mount and exhaust and muffler then you will have be headed in the right direction.

Your oil cooler will have to be checked for fit on the Kitfox and of course you will need the mounting brackets for the oil cooler.

The prop will need a hub extension if that didn't come on the Airmaster install for a Pelican.

Good luck with the install and you will most certainly have a great performing plane with that engine and prop combo.

Esser

09-07-2014, 01:12 PM

Thanks John,

I was thinking along the same lines. It will be interesting to see how much we can use. I will call Debra Monday and see how much just the cowl and mount are for now.

got boost?

09-08-2014, 10:17 PM

Thanks Josh! Looking forward to building with you!

Hi to everyone on the thread - I've enjoyed reading all the good info, encouragement, and joking. Looking forward to joining in!

Daniel - Edmonton AB

Esser

09-14-2014, 07:00 PM

First work in a while.

Just getting my feet wet on the superfil fairing of the horz stab and elevator.
I ran out on the Rudder so I will wait for this to cure, sand it, and see if it needs more anywhere before I finish up the rudder.

Biggest tip I received for using this stuff is wet your finger with alcohol to smooth it out without it pulling up as it is pretty tacky right off the get go.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/image-1_zpseff0a173.jpeg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/image-1_zpseff0a173.jpeg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/48C7B223-FE3C-4297-AF9E-56A3A6FD573D_zpsr38nhaie.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/48C7B223-FE3C-4297-AF9E-56A3A6FD573D_zpsr38nhaie.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/36F4FABA-3E98-414B-849E-49B98EFEE645_zpstj9my0jr.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/36F4FABA-3E98-414B-849E-49B98EFEE645_zpstj9my0jr.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/image-2_zps96b183cc.jpeg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/image-2_zps96b183cc.jpeg.html)
Ran out!

rosslr

09-14-2014, 07:16 PM

Paul Z

09-14-2014, 09:12 PM

Great to see you back into it Josh. Yes, that stuff is pretty good to work with and you can get a really good finish for the fabric. Sounds like a waste of good alcohol though!

cheers

Ross
Mt Beauty
OZ

I think he meant rubbing alcohol, not a good scotch. I would recommend drink the Scotch, rubb the alcohol.

got boost?

09-15-2014, 07:40 PM

...but only when it is dull. Never drink the scotch-brite. You'll wish it was rubbing alcohol.

Good tip, Josh! I hadn't heard that one before. I know that on PRC or Proseal, you can use a mix of dish soap and water - makes the most beautifully smooth and artistic bead you've ever seen! I wonder if it would work with superfil?

Anyways - thanks for the alcohol tip!
Daniel

Paul Z

09-15-2014, 08:31 PM

Drink the scotch, not the scotch brite, didn't your parents teach you anything. :o. I've had a head cold, my throat is sore & raspy. I can't imagine drinking scotch brite, it would really be sore.

I would recommend adding micro balloons to the epoxy when your filling the imperfection it will cut the weight dramatically, and it is very easy to shape with the micro balloons in the epoxy. Also wear gloves, I developed a epoxy allergy, and an allergy to latex gloves trying to build a composite aircraft. Absolutely no fun! So much for that project.

Esser

09-15-2014, 09:29 PM

Hey Paul, you can see the gloves on the ground in the third picture. The superfil already contains fillers. A fully cured gallon of it weighs less than 4 lbs

Paul Z

09-16-2014, 09:16 AM

Gloves excellent, glad to see them. :D I missed you were using super fill.

Esser

09-18-2014, 08:36 PM

Quick update,

We went and picked up our new engine and ass. parts. We will be parting out the Pelican if anyone knows of anyone needing parts.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/1462529C-8350-41E9-9D9E-DC98D86513BC_zpshqzamozk.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/1462529C-8350-41E9-9D9E-DC98D86513BC_zpshqzamozk.jpg.html)
Daniel strapping the pelican down.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/A441B2F2-6F8F-441F-B2C4-7C537546D3B0_zpsjszvhdcy.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/A441B2F2-6F8F-441F-B2C4-7C537546D3B0_zpsjszvhdcy.jpg.html)
In the shed

Esser

11-17-2014, 10:17 AM

Well I have been delinquent on posting lately but we have been getting work done.

Yesterday we put the rib reenforcement plates for the flapperon brackets on. We also drilled all the holes in the flapperons. We will be using solid rivets instead of pop rivets.

We also laid out and drilled the holes for the counter weights and the inboard insert.

Does anyone have any tips on the flapperon tips using the moulded tips? They weren't exactly what I was expecting.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/IMG_3475_zps0caebb4c.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/IMG_3475_zps0caebb4c.jpg.html)
Me prepping for bonding

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/IMG_3476_zps08876d09.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/IMG_3476_zps08876d09.jpg.html)
Bonded

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/IMG_3477_zps4610fd3e.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/IMG_3477_zps4610fd3e.jpg.html)
Daniel laying out holes.

JohnB

11-17-2014, 03:54 PM

Here are a few pics from when I did mine. These kind of baffled me until I read on this forum that others hat stuffed/bonded the tips completely inside the flaperon.
I ended up trimming the tail end of the molded tip along with the aft end of the flapeon to get things to match up. Then a little superfill to smooth it all out.

DesertFox4

11-17-2014, 08:22 PM

Looks very good John. Nice work.

cap01

11-17-2014, 08:53 PM

there is no need to stagger the counterweights on the new planes ?

Esser

11-18-2014, 08:25 AM

Thanks for the pictures John, it clears things up for me. You did a very nice job.

Esser

01-03-2015, 09:05 AM

Hey everyone, sorry for the lack of posts lately. I'll put up some pictures soon but to keep you in the loop we have been working pretty steady lately. The Flapperons are all done now with the tips in and faired. There is something I want to change about the tips but I'm not sure what yet.

I also have wrapped up some loose ends with the cap strips under the tank and fuel gauge site. One this to note if you are doing the fuel gauge sight: Dont follow the template. The left and right tank holes are not symmetrical.

We also epoxy primed the interior of the spars and popped the pitot tube in.

Didn't get to covering before Christmas like we hoped as little things take longer than you hope. Soon!

rosslr

01-03-2015, 12:57 PM

Ho Josh,

It's good to hear you are getting back into it again! Have you got a new place for building in the winter or have you got the heating going well in the shed? Looking forward to watching the progress again and learning from your build. (ps. we have the opposite problem here at the moment with 40C temps - I get to about midday and have to knock off because of the heat!)

cheers

Esser

02-22-2015, 09:58 PM

Well I have been delaying posting as I was having trouble putting pictures online due to an issue with my phone and it turns out after all the waiting I lost the pictures anyway after a corrupt phone back up.

Had a slower month but to keep you updated:

Flapperons have been all assembled, mounted, and have very loose play after shooting with LPS1

My second wing tip is tightly fitted a year after the first haha.

Tail Access Bulkhead finally epoxied in place.

Baggage area angle and support tube have been installed

Tail Access Cover is fabricated and ready to install (The instructions show two ways of cutting for the aerofoiled tail. Unfortunately I didn't see the second one until after so I am not sure which is right. I went straight up and down all the way through. I have to say that this piece is tight to fit on the plane. Any tips?)

Fabricated a bracket for a rudder trim tab to be installed on the rudder. (Anyone have any suggestions on how big of a tab is a good starting point and the thickness of the tab?)

We are now waiting for the MD-RA to come out and do a precover inspection so that we can make this thing look like a real airplane. Once they inspect, we need to permanently install the LLE and then it is cover and paint time. After lots of research, it looks like we are not conforming to the masses and will be painting our fabric with Endura.

We also are looking into an LED landing light set up that is brighter than AeroLED Microsuns, will fit into the same wing tip recess, and will be half the cost. Right now we are working through light weight heat dissipation as we are trying to keep our LEDs under 60C.

I'll try to get pictures back and rolling with more progress updates.

We received our firewall forward kit but I don't think there are instructions that came with it. Is this a factory oversight? Or am I missing something?

jiott

02-23-2015, 10:54 AM

Yes you should have received instructions, at least for a 912 installation.

rosslr

02-24-2015, 03:56 AM

Good to see you back into it Josh! I look forward to the progress and pics once you get the camera working again! I am still up in Bali - back in a week or so and I will be back into it! have decided on Rotax 912iS with an Airmaster CS Prop - currently looking at Wirlwind super stol prop 75" - but more on that later!

I lie your Q and the discussion about the wingtips too - I am not pleased with the 'tightness' of the fit of our wingtips and the seal idea is appealing!

cheers

r

Esser

02-24-2015, 12:58 PM

Yeah I want to have water proof wing tips because I might have electronics in there that aren't exactly moisture resistant

Esser

03-09-2015, 08:37 AM

OK A few pics.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/F902C654-0BA9-410B-B3DF-A5701CEF7907_zpsqmqg6wob.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/F902C654-0BA9-410B-B3DF-A5701CEF7907_zpsqmqg6wob.jpg.html)
Wing tip fitted to close tolerance.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/3FA602A4-A9B5-4990-81F7-ED1F851450CB_zpsnxydfvds.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/3FA602A4-A9B5-4990-81F7-ED1F851450CB_zpsnxydfvds.jpg.html)
Tabs rivetted on the tail access cover.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/7183DF65-2702-4616-A7A1-238C83F5AFE5_zpsglqp3n9l.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/7183DF65-2702-4616-A7A1-238C83F5AFE5_zpsglqp3n9l.jpg.html)
Flapperons hung with no friction. Still need to add solid rivets to the trailing edge.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/80731E09-D540-4247-85DE-33E9DD27CFD4_zpswc6puayf.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/80731E09-D540-4247-85DE-33E9DD27CFD4_zpswc6puayf.jpg.html)
Cutting out the mounting hole for our in house developed landing lights.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6C721859-DA11-4E5D-8B0F-991DD3F43C0D_zpsddwumhy1.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6C721859-DA11-4E5D-8B0F-991DD3F43C0D_zpsddwumhy1.jpg.html)
Shimming up the door.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/216D1A45-F8AF-4E21-9A08-0638F32F2775_zpsenydbkhn.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/216D1A45-F8AF-4E21-9A08-0638F32F2775_zpsenydbkhn.jpg.html)
Gluing the door shims in place.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/4F56E1EC-0D14-47CB-B0D5-6D85139F6BF5_zpsivcwa9sn.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/4F56E1EC-0D14-47CB-B0D5-6D85139F6BF5_zpsivcwa9sn.jpg.html)

OK So I am having issues with the tail access cover. It seems where the instructions told me to put the riveted tabs are in the way of mounting it to the fuse. Also, is it a huge pita to put in place or am i missing something?

Just waiting for the MD-RA guy to come so we can begin to cover.

AirFox

03-09-2015, 09:33 AM

Hi Josh,

I picked up a tip while visiting the factory prior to finishing my build on the rear access cover. If you split vertically the access cover at the rear opening it is much easier to install without scratching your paint. Just do the same type of connection plate the manual describes for the bottom to the top. This works out really nice.

Scott

Esser

03-09-2015, 07:10 PM

Hi Scott, I cut it vertically but the issue I am having is at the front. The tab the instructions called for hits the aluminum angle coming off the tail former which pushes everything away. I'll have to get a picture.

jiott

03-09-2015, 07:44 PM

I had to drill a hole thru the aluminum angle to allow clearance for one of the tab rivets. The double thickness of the tab you can't do much about.

Esser

03-22-2015, 06:27 PM

Woke up to a foot of snow this morning so it was a bit slow getting ramped up.

My friends Ryan and Kaleigh came over for a late breakfast and after that Ryan helped me and Daniel on the plane for the first time.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/1D96D580-707B-4889-81F2-252471E54B70_zps53vfsrit.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/1D96D580-707B-4889-81F2-252471E54B70_zps53vfsrit.jpg.html)
Popping the hinges on the door. Screwed up one hinge which is very frustrating but it is my own fault.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/E2303939-8E0E-4BFF-8CF5-210356A60228_zpsqoqvpd0k.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/E2303939-8E0E-4BFF-8CF5-210356A60228_zpsqoqvpd0k.jpg.html)
Ryan helping fit the boot cowl after trimming off the excess on the front.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/3CA8D364-92F4-4259-B895-CE60525C4ED9_zpsaryzuzdj.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/3CA8D364-92F4-4259-B895-CE60525C4ED9_zpsaryzuzdj.jpg.html)
Boot cowl clecoed on with the tape to mark where to trim the aft overlap.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/CBED721F-FBDC-466E-917B-AA8163D75C75_zpsolepkfwr.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/CBED721F-FBDC-466E-917B-AA8163D75C75_zpsolepkfwr.jpg.html)
Walter and Maude bored of waiting for the inspectors so that we can cover...

KFfan

03-23-2015, 09:17 AM

"Walter and Maude"
How many 'youngsters' here can figure that one out? :rolleyes:

Esser

03-23-2015, 10:59 AM

Haha glad you caught on Lou. I had a 205lbs English mastiff named the dude before these two rascals and a spaniel named Donny when I was a kid. However, I think at 27 I'm probably one of the youngsters on this forum haha;)

Esser

03-28-2015, 07:22 PM

Well today we were going to hang the engine so we could start fiddling with the cowl. The only problem is the correct bolts were not on the ring mount. Holy sh*t what a PITA. I now know everyone's pain. What a rubics cube.

I rigged up a ghetto engine mount to hoist it up so we could fiddle.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/21C0D9FD-41C2-4553-8ED8-57114B05B34C_zps1typg097.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/21C0D9FD-41C2-4553-8ED8-57114B05B34C_zps1typg097.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/16FFFEB5-EE37-47B1-A733-23C22496EEB4_zpstbh35tbm.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/16FFFEB5-EE37-47B1-A733-23C22496EEB4_zpstbh35tbm.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/2F377CD9-DC13-4FB1-AC79-0A2BB800C007_zpsmhqmyp5f.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/2F377CD9-DC13-4FB1-AC79-0A2BB800C007_zpsmhqmyp5f.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6B053687-0B16-4F57-8243-7FCD0B62A897_zpsuo0qomcm.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6B053687-0B16-4F57-8243-7FCD0B62A897_zpsuo0qomcm.jpg.html)
Daniel sizing up the ring mount.

Paul Z

03-28-2015, 07:25 PM

I'm jealous a Turbo. I can understand the grin on your last picture.

Kurt.A

03-28-2015, 11:07 PM

Very Cool Josh! We are definitely on the same page with our project thoughts. Fuel injected and turbocharged is the way to go. Is that a factory header or a handmade unit?

Esser

03-29-2015, 09:15 AM

Hey Kurt,

We never ordered the exhaust as we bought this engine used with 75 hours on it. It is a custom ceramic coating but I'm not sure if it is a custom header itself as I am just getting familiar with Rotax engines now.

The guy we bought the engine off of said this was a $5,000 exhaust. I have a hard time believing that number but maybe it is true. All I know is that after shutting down the engine you can put your hand on the exhaust and not burn yourself. It should help with under the cowl temps and performance to a degree.

I'll keep you posted on the fuel injection stuff. We are just getting going on that side of things.

Since it will be a 914iS I think we are going to paint the valve covers orange to make people curious.

Paul, you are right. Daniel's smile was all about the turbo! Coupled with an airmaster prop, this thing should be a blast to fly if we ever get her done! Everything takes longer than you think. The fact that we are still waiting for our inspection to cover is slowing us down too.

War Eagle

03-29-2015, 04:24 PM

Very Cool Josh! We are definitely on the same page with our project thoughts. Fuel injected and turbocharged is the way to go. Is that a factory header or a handmade unit?

It is a factory built header. See attached picture of my engine.

The exhaust is bright silver because it was ceramic coated. Cost under $300 at the time I did mine.

I don't think you will ever be putting your hand on the exhaust just after shut down. The exhaust gets very toasty even with the ceramic coating I have on it.

Kurt.A

03-30-2015, 10:54 PM

Very nice header that's for sure. Will have to see how close it would be to bolting onto a 912UL. Is the waste gate full manual? Josh does your EFI system have the capability to run an electronic waste gate controller?

Jfquebec

04-03-2015, 09:02 AM

Hi Josh ....what kind of paint did you use for your spar....zink??

Esser

04-03-2015, 11:53 AM

War eagle. I guess I should have clarified 5 min after shut down.

Jf, it's the poly fibre primer in green instead of white.

Esser

04-04-2015, 05:19 PM

Well today we didn't get as much done as we hoped but did lot of reading.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/DFD817ED-4057-41E2-9130-D1E8E20C6059_zpsbdq9ru33.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/DFD817ED-4057-41E2-9130-D1E8E20C6059_zpsbdq9ru33.jpg.html)
Started the weekend getting my friend's Daphne's wings on and bled the brakes. Did some taxiing but stayed on the ground.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/2E48AAC8-3AD2-468D-9137-8A6AA3057135_zpsinn55acq.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/2E48AAC8-3AD2-468D-9137-8A6AA3057135_zpsinn55acq.jpg.html)
Pulled off the Ring Mount and painted it.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/BE51CA57-35E9-4ECC-92D8-0CAD9F55B939_zpsy6w7htxf.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/BE51CA57-35E9-4ECC-92D8-0CAD9F55B939_zpsy6w7htxf.jpg.html)
Put some of the components for the fuel injection system on.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/12BC06E7-72B3-4F06-B50C-A4BF15AC4F75_zps9kod6bje.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/12BC06E7-72B3-4F06-B50C-A4BF15AC4F75_zps9kod6bje.jpg.html)
Unpacked the boxes. Everything here weighed 10.5lbs still have to add fuel lines. I havent weighed what we took off yet but seems to me like this will be lighter.

Did some other prep on the fuel injection stuff. Should have most of it on next week and do a trial mount of the engine to start fitting the cowl.

Esser

04-12-2015, 09:29 PM

Not too much to report. Go the boot cowl fully fitted and hung the engine. We had a few issues on the engine that took up a lot of our time. It seem like we have been moving very slowly at this point but soon we will be getting in a groove I hope. Going to start bugging the MD-RA to get an inspector out here. We have been waiting a couple months for the inspector so that we can cover.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6A2EBCC6-8A29-4508-894E-94B8826CEF77_zpsnnrokwcs.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6A2EBCC6-8A29-4508-894E-94B8826CEF77_zpsnnrokwcs.jpg.html)

rosslr

04-13-2015, 12:39 AM

Looks good Josh.. With the warmer weather I bet you will get a roll on!

Cheers

Paul Z

04-23-2015, 07:49 PM

You are a lucky man, my wife barely tolerates airplanes.

I'll second that, my wife wants nothing to do with my plane.

mr bill

04-23-2015, 08:53 PM

Welcome to the club.

Paul Z

04-24-2015, 01:08 PM

EsserFoxEsser looking at you wing spars what did you use as a finish on them? They have a green color.

Esser

04-25-2015, 01:18 PM

Hi Paul,

That's the poly fibre epoxy primer in green instead of white. I prefer that as it is easier to see coverage.

Last weekend we got a bunch of the fuel injection stuff on the aircraft and the ext alt. I have company from out of town here this weekend so not an eventful week for the plane.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/44FF5B2E-3444-4F39-B2FB-E301531505CC_zpsj60m69ss.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/44FF5B2E-3444-4F39-B2FB-E301531505CC_zpsj60m69ss.jpg.html)

Esser

04-25-2015, 01:19 PM

Oh and I yes, I am a very lucky man. My wife just wants to know when I'm going to build her a 200kt plus machine. Lots of fun to share a hobby with her.

Esser

05-06-2015, 05:11 PM

Well I was fixing my well this weekend so the Kitfox got some sunshine in the driveway but that was about it. I finally got my inspection booked for May 15th so I will be covering shortly after that.

We also got a bunch of goodies in the mail so I will be finishing the doors and the ext. baggage area. I kinda want to finish the cowl before I paint too so that I can do it all in one shot.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/D101437D-E590-4873-89C9-71E48DF35397_zpsgjyhn0ns.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/D101437D-E590-4873-89C9-71E48DF35397_zpsgjyhn0ns.jpg.html)

Esser

05-10-2015, 06:02 PM

Worked on the extended baggage today which I made out of birch ply. Added over 40" of depth.

My friend is going to sew me and envelope to stop anything from falling down the sides. I am going to add two zippers to the rear of the baggage sack that kitfox sells so I can access it. I also varnished the baggage floor as well.

My main goal was to fit our skis in and it is only for light weight stuff. I think I am going to put a couple stiffeners between the supports immediately behind the existing baggage area as it has no diagonal cross brace like further aft does. I pushed down almost 80lbs with no concern however peace of mind goes along way.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/53F5F9B9-7D6F-4570-BC75-32F3EBDD10AD_zpsyxlxafyg.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/53F5F9B9-7D6F-4570-BC75-32F3EBDD10AD_zpsyxlxafyg.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6D844CE9-40C9-4699-A9FE-1EE792E0D916_zpspnwqsty4.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6D844CE9-40C9-4699-A9FE-1EE792E0D916_zpspnwqsty4.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/F97CAA37-5861-4143-84C4-78EC96D28927_zpsvxgk3s5t.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/F97CAA37-5861-4143-84C4-78EC96D28927_zpsvxgk3s5t.jpg.html)

SkySteve

05-10-2015, 06:39 PM

Esser,
Wow! That's some serious baggage room!!!

Esser

05-15-2015, 04:53 PM

Yeah it is quite large. I think once I figure out my max aft c of g I will put a fish scale on the handle at the rear to figure out the max weight so I can easily calculate for awkward shaped items.

Good news is that I passed my precover inspection finally. Just need to permanently attach my LLE and things like that and will be covering by the end of the month.

My sister is visiting this weekend with my new nephew so there won't be any work on the plane.

rosslr

05-15-2015, 11:20 PM

Might be easier to get shorter skis Josh! How long ARE those!?

cheers

Esser

05-16-2015, 06:20 AM

Well I'm 191cm so I think those are 170

rosslr

05-16-2015, 02:51 PM

OK - they looked even longer in the photo! Good luck with the covering too. It will all start coming together quickly now given all the other things you have been doing. Enjoying your posts.

cheers

ross

chefwarthog

05-17-2015, 01:39 PM

So Josh, you want to go sking with your Fox.....:rolleyes:

Land on the top of wild rocky Alp of the west canadien B.C.

Jump out of your plane, on to your skis and decend the steep slope in bright white powdery snow......:)

Descend for an hour, in the silence and tranquility of what nature can give in winter....

when you arrive at the down the hill, you turn back to admire your slalom trace that you let behind...... Your eyesight follow those traces up the hill
to perceive your Kitfox sitting on the top of a migestic mountain..... How I will get there!!!:eek::D:D:D

Paul Z

05-17-2015, 02:12 PM

N213RV

05-19-2015, 04:08 PM

My baggage compartment is standard sized and my new skis are a bit different.... Can't wait to try them out!!!

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/mkraus01/KitFox/E44A837B-C049-49AA-9BF7-247AE2CBBD3D.jpg

Esser

05-19-2015, 08:38 PM

Eric, I will have to make sure I take my wife with me so she can fly down and pick me up!

Mike, those skis are on my Christmas list! Looks like fun!

kmach

05-20-2015, 03:57 PM

N213RV

05-20-2015, 04:18 PM

What brand are these ?

The skis are made by Summit

kmach

05-20-2015, 09:07 PM

The skis are made by Summit
I thought they were, I have early summits they look slightly different.:)

Esser

05-31-2015, 08:26 PM

Well I have to go out of town for a few weeks so progress will be a bit slow. I tryed to get some last minute items before covering the wings wrapped up.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/880D098E-A48B-4E35-94BA-B5AFDBAA99FD_zps2fmicauq.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/880D098E-A48B-4E35-94BA-B5AFDBAA99FD_zps2fmicauq.jpg.html)
Installing a plate for the electronic compass unit to go.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/3D9776BC-B8ED-4236-B1EC-30875125A95E_zpspgvdckdn.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/3D9776BC-B8ED-4236-B1EC-30875125A95E_zpspgvdckdn.jpg.html)
Bonded one LLE in. I didnt have enough clecos to do both so hopefully I'll get the other done mid week.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/4C828D14-1D70-4A69-A04E-68BAB6FB2315_zps79tgtrw0.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/4C828D14-1D70-4A69-A04E-68BAB6FB2315_zps79tgtrw0.jpg.html)
Blurry picture but finally got the access panel back drilled.

Jfquebec

06-01-2015, 02:25 AM

Good progress...Josh...

P.s i have my rendez-vous with the inspector the 8 june...wich me good luck:eek:

Esser

10-05-2015, 10:25 AM

Hey everyone. Work is still getting in the way but I was back in the garage with Daniel buttoning up some loose ends. (Odd bits that need varnish, deburring and sanding rough edges)

Daniel also popped in our rudder trim tab plate. It was pretty simple to make out of some scrap aluminum we had hanging around.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/6A878D5D-BF44-48C7-A58B-54138F169603_zpsexadecs2.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/6A878D5D-BF44-48C7-A58B-54138F169603_zpsexadecs2.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/E2E232B6-291D-496E-9FC8-6189A096013A_zpsyx7vsa6b.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/E2E232B6-291D-496E-9FC8-6189A096013A_zpsyx7vsa6b.jpg.html)

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/9F4C36D6-18BB-494D-A163-B68B50DA09DB_zpskepl47yj.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/9F4C36D6-18BB-494D-A163-B68B50DA09DB_zpskepl47yj.jpg.html)
Varnished the Number 2 rib and false ribs.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/0054501A-90DB-4EE6-9477-A5AE2C594B0B_zpsqyuzczab.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/0054501A-90DB-4EE6-9477-A5AE2C594B0B_zpsqyuzczab.jpg.html)
Drilled the Comm antenna plate.

Today if I have time or tomorrow is wing covering. Wish me luck.

Disclaimer. If my wing covering method looks unorthodox, it's because it is. I do know what I am doing in regards to Polyfiber but I am not really using Polyfiber except for the Polytak and a little bit of the Polybrush for wetting out the tapes as I already have that stuff.

rosslr

10-05-2015, 01:11 PM

Good to see you back at it again Josh. That bloody work gets in the way at times! All the best for the covering and looking forward to seeing the progress.

cheers
r

Esser

10-07-2015, 06:01 PM

Started covering. Went pretty well so far but I have to wait for my primer to dry on my concave surfaces before I can do my initial tighten. So for now it is just the bottom. The primer is taking a little longer to dry due to the temps here. When this primer dries you can rip apart the web before the fabric will release from the rib.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/235B2D5B-CC9A-4FAE-BC88-B8163DC84972_zpsfsq5ckpj.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/235B2D5B-CC9A-4FAE-BC88-B8163DC84972_zpsfsq5ckpj.jpg.html)
Nat rolling out the fabric.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/3ADA4879-1F21-43C7-8087-8407E259BC1E_zpsjroavkjv.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/3ADA4879-1F21-43C7-8087-8407E259BC1E_zpsjroavkjv.jpg.html)
The excess on the trailing edge was cut off. Forgot to take pictures.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/47A299D3-4CEA-40D1-BAF5-1EF1B6A5D416_zpsfnaorou6.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/joshesser/media/Kitfox%20Build/47A299D3-4CEA-40D1-BAF5-1EF1B6A5D416_zpsfnaorou6.jpg.html)
Primer on and slowly doing it's magic.