Just gettin started..how to ream stab bushings

[Jch]

What have you used to hold the .4375" reamer so that it is aligned parallel with the stab/elevator bushings. Any technique I have envisioned, cants the reamer and gripping it would be difficult. Any tips on this would be appreciated. Received my SS7 on 5/18/2012 :>)

[HighWing]

I've done it two ways. Hand reamers have a square cut in the non cutting end to attach the handle and a slight taper on the cutting end and are self aligning. You can use an appropriately sized wrench and crank them in a quarter turn at a time. I have also welded a rod onto the end and used a slow speed cordless drill to feed them in. I like to use a drop or two of cutting oil. If you want to try the welded rod idea, use nothing larger than about 3/16 rod as it is hard to weld them together perfectly concentric and the small diameter rod will flex and make a slight misalignment workable. Picking up the rod and welding the two pieces together will take more time than doing it the slow way.
Lowell

[jtpitkin06]

reamer- square nut socket - u joint - extension - ratchet.

[MotReklaw]

Here's the advice I got:

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/showthread.php?p=10556#post10556

Hope this helps.

[Jch]

Thanks for the suuggestions. I got em all done and was satisfied with the parallelism. Next up fit the bushings and sand em down if necessary. Will use the drill press, sacrificial bolt, sand paper technique.

[Meyertheflyer]

I ground six sides and slipped on a 3/32, 1/4 drive socket and extension. Made the job much easier and no scratching the powder coat. All the holes lined up perfectly.

[Esser]

My reamer was round on the non cutting edge so I took it over to my bench grinder and put four flat sides on it. I tried the socket with extension but it didn't quite fit. I actually had better success with just a wrench. Took a bit of time but I had some help in the shop that day so we had good conversation during a more or less mindless job.

Now you may run into the same problem I did with the inside centre bushing. Because of the steel ribs I could not access the bushing straight. Here is a picture for example.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file-7.jpg
Reamer hitting bushing on angle. It was like this from both sides.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file-8.jpg
Side view of the offending rib.

http://i1042.photobucket.com/albums/b423/joshesser/Kitfox%20Build/file-9.jpg
You can see I took a small rotary file and ground down the rib so my reamer could access it straight. Didn't take me too long.

[jtpitkin06]

A few things to mention here.

1. Insert the reamer shank though the hole and ream the hole while pulling it through instead of starting it on the fluke ends like you would a drill bit. This will aid in keeping things aligned.

2. For the center bushings at the stab pivot you can use a burr to grind away one rib for reamer clearance; or,

3. Don't raise the bridge, lower the river. Run a bolt and nut through the bushings and chuck them in a drill press. Using a file, turn the bushings down for a snug fit and Loc-tite in place.

4. When installing the bushings, always have a bolt running through the pieces to keep them aligned. A bolt and nut with washers is an easy way to press them in place. Never pound on the bushings. If the bushings do not press in easily, do no force them. Turn them down for a press fit.

5. Before Loc-tite in place, use a long 3/16 rod (hobby or big box store) to run through all the bearings to check alignment.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[N213RV]

I welded a flex drill extension to the end of the reamers and was able to ream each of them properly. I used something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/12-Inch-Long-Flex-Bit/dp/B00004Z063/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1346898429&sr=1-3&keywords=flexible+drill+extension

-Mike Kraus
RV-10 Flying
KitFox SS7 started 8/2012

[Timberwolf]

I welded a flex drill extension to the end of the reamers and was able to ream each of them properly. I used something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/12-Inch-Long-Flex-Bit/dp/B00004Z063/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1346898429&sr=1-3&keywords=flexible+drill+extension

-Mike Kraus
RV-10 Flying
KitFox SS7 started 8/2012



Great idea...exactly what I was thinking as I read this thread. Also remember to never ever run a reamer backwards. Always in the direction it cuts, even when backing it out of a hole

[DesertFox4]

Insert the reamer shank though the hole and ream the hole while pulling it through instead of starting it on the fluke ends like you would a drill bit. This will aid in keeping things aligned.John correctly stated that you should ream by pulling the reamer through the hole instead of "drilling" it with the reamer. Does a better job and much less chance of breaking the brittle reamers. This just may not be possible in all instances when working on the Kitfox but should be used whenever able.

[HighWing]

Been watching, but now have to ask a question. Are you guys using chucking reamers or hand reamers. chucking reamears are designed for drill presses and lathes. They typically have straight flutes and a very short 45° cutting edge. As John suggests, if they are not inserted strictly parallel to the drilled hole, they can seriously score the interior of the drilled hole or tube. Hand reamers, on the other hand are slightly tapered and will self center and should be inserted from the free end rather from the shank end. In my two Model IVs the hand reamers were recommended and one benefit is that in certain pivot areas - the flaperon controll bell crank under the seat comes to mind - you can ream the tab holes slightly for a tight bolt fit and the bell crank hole fully for a close but loose fit, then you get a pivot where the bolt won't rotate because of its tight fit on the tabs. Hand reamers are also square cut on the butt end to fit in a handle or 12 pt. socket.

Does the tool kit from the factory come with chucking reamers or hand reamers. In my opinion, since most reamed holes in the kit are done by hand, hand reamers would be much preferred. The reason I ask is the pics look like chucking reamers.
Lowell

[Esser]

Mine came with hand reamers

[jiott]

My Kitfox tool kit came with chucking type reamers.

I agree, pulling them thru if possible is much preferred to pushing.

Jim

[HighWing]

My Kitfox tool kit came with chucking type reamers.



Don't understand this. From my perspective, the wrong tool. As was mentioned, the shank is straight round and requires some modification to attach some sort of handle unless the holes to be reamed can accommodate a drill motor attachment, then you have the alignment issue - so much easier with hand reamers.
Lowell