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View Full Version : Triangular lateral windows to attach



GDN
03-22-2012, 01:48 PM
I finished the recovering of my KF2 and need now to glue new lexan triangular windows (the small ones just behind the doors).
The former one seems to be fixed by a sort of double face tape.
Does anyone now which sort of tape i can use or other material ?

Dorsal
03-22-2012, 03:23 PM
3M super strong attachment tape (yes it really is called something like that) for car body moldings and the like.

Av8r_Sed
03-22-2012, 05:19 PM
I used 3M Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape part no. 06384. It's available on Amazon and other automotive sites. 1/2" wide, .045" thick



Made mine out of Al sheet stock. Usual cardboard template for a pattern.

-- Paul

HighWing
03-22-2012, 08:59 PM
I wish I had heard of the tape. The original windows from Skystar were sewn into small triangular pieces of fabric that were supposed to be glued in with Polytac, then finished like the rest of the fabric. I didn't like the look then so glued mine onto the fabric. Ten years later, they were looking a bit tacky, but impossible to replace. This time, I put in the aluminum frame, but riveted some thin channels front and bottom that I could slip a piece of Lexan in with four #4 sheet metal screws on top to hold it in place. Replacing it now amounts to unscrewing the four screws, popping the old Lexan out, cutting a new piece to match and slipping the new one back in.
Lowell

jiott
03-22-2012, 09:48 PM
The SS7 manual says to use RTV and glue them to the inside of the aluminum frame. A rivet in each corner is optional.

Jim

P Morel
03-25-2012, 04:06 PM
I used smoked gray lexan cut for the triangle windows on each side. I then cut adel clamps down and used them to clamp on the windows to the fuselage frame. Quick, easy to make and they look great.

DanB
03-25-2012, 04:57 PM
The SS7 manual says to use RTV and glue them to the inside of the aluminum frame.

This is basically what I did. I used clear silicone knowing the silicone would not stick to the polycarb. I then used two #6 (pan head) machine screws per side. The silicone is acting as a gasket and replacement of the polycarb should be very easy when the time comes.
Dan

LSaupe
04-04-2015, 06:14 PM
I know this is an old thread, but thought I would shoot this out there. I am recovering my Model III and the traingular windows, though they are like new (original sewed in Skystar), it doesnt appear promising that I can save them.

I see mention of using an aluminum frame. Anyone have drawings or maybe even offer a kit for replacement out there?

Larry S.

DesertFox4
04-04-2015, 06:38 PM
Larry, I may have something that will work for you. It is at my hangar. I'll try to get by the hangar tomorrow before my Easter dinner and look for it. It is a "kit" for the side windows including a metal frame and the plastic windows. I'll bring it home and take photos for you in case it might work on your 3.

vetdrem
04-05-2015, 09:19 AM
DesertFox4, shoot me a copy of that pic also, or post it here if you can. I have the same issue (need to replace the sewn in lexan) and have been trying to figure out the best method.

Louie

DesertFox4
04-05-2015, 02:35 PM
Some photos of two options. First are photos of my current set up. I used Murle Williams window templates during my build which doesn't use an external frame but a bonded in thin aluminum triangular frame (looks like it is 13" long on the sides) and a piece of thin lexan held in with lots of very small bolts. See first 3 photos of my window install.
8722
Looks like the bonded in frame is about 13" on each side.
You can't see the aluminum frame as it is sandwiched between the outside fabric and another piece glued over the frame on the inside of the aircraft. The opening was simply cut out with a razor blade and a larger sized piece of lexan bolted on the inside makes up the window. The bolts are of course in holes drilled through the fabric layers and internal aluminum frame at carefully spaced locations. I've never had it leak while flying in rain or washing the aircraft.
8724
Photo of the inside of the window.
8725
Second is a kit made by a fellow Kitfoxer out of Oklahoma. Sent it to me at least 12 years ago and I never installed it.
The kit cost $100.00 over 12 years ago. It is a very well made aluminum frame ( almost looks like it was stamped) and somewhat thicker lexan with protective film still on. My kit still looks as it did when he shipped to me. I'd be willing to sell it for $100.00 including shipping to the lower 48.
Good chance if still available from my friend that the price has gone up.
Not sure if it is still available but if this one sells and others want one, I'll try to contact him.
8726
8727
Window taped in place over mine. Mine is just slightly larger so this kit most likely would not work as a replacement for my existing window.
8731
I also have what looks like an original side window set up that is sewn to a larger triangular piece of fabric. The windows still look useable as they retain the protective film on the lexan. If these will work for someone I'll take a offer on them and ship them my cost. Time to get them out of my hangar before they get damaged.
8728
8729
8730

HighWing
04-05-2015, 05:38 PM
Larry,
The pictures below show what I did. I wanted the "glass" easily replaceable and as described in the earlier note, it is aluminum with channels flat head riveted to the frame. The Polycarbonate is slipped into the forward and lower channels and four self tapping #4 screws screwd into the Polycarbonate secures it on top. Replacement is a matter of removing the four screws sliding the plastic out and copying it with new material then reinserting it and the screws.

If you or a friend have a router table, you can make up a routing template using glued 1X2s. Secure the aluminum to the template with three screws, drill a hole for access of a ball bearing guided edging bit, then route the aluminum to shape the window portion. Then final trim the aluminum window frame to fit within the structural tubing. The channels are shimmed aluminum strips with a slight bend at the inner edge. I used strips of the polycarbonate for the shims. The bends on the channels should be outside the shims - touching the final window material sligtly - for a snug fit.

LSaupe
04-05-2015, 05:58 PM
Great feedback and picks!

Nice clean install Lowell. Pretty sharp.

DesertFox: I will send you a PM with a couple of questions.

Av8r_Sed
04-06-2015, 04:57 PM
Here are mine, a simple aluminum frame, bonded after the fabric was installed with structural adhesive. I posted the details earlier in the thread on the adhesive used to bond the windows to the frame.

I could lend you the cardboard templates if interested.