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szicree
01-23-2012, 04:04 PM
On my Super Sport there are tabs welded to the fuselage tubing that appear to be for nutplates to attach the seat. I seem to remember asking John McBean about it and he confirmed this. However, today I tried to mount the nutplates and found the tabs have the wrong hole layout. Apparently, nutplate mounting holes are 11/16" apart and the holes in the tabs are 3/4" apart. I realize these fit the camlocs, but that doesn't really help. Anybody know what the deal is?

Dorsal
01-24-2012, 04:37 AM
Not sure I understand this as my seat rests on the support tubes and is held in with zip ties. Could you be talking about the tabs for the aft slanted floor boards? a picture would be good.

jdmcbean
01-24-2012, 05:19 AM
On my Super Sport there are tabs welded to the fuselage tubing that appear to be for nutplates to attach the seat. I seem to remember asking John McBean about it and he confirmed this. However, today I tried to mount the nutplates and found the tabs have the wrong hole layout. Apparently, nutplate mounting holes are 11/16" apart and the holes in the tabs are 3/4" apart. I realize these fit the camlocs, but that doesn't really help. Anybody know what the deal is?

We are continually "upgrading" the SS. Obviously these are items that would go un-noticed by a first time builder but would instantly be seen by a second time builder.

These tabs are on the fuselage to mount the seat. No need for zip ties. They are sized for Camlocs so you will either need to drill for nut plates (what we do) or you can just hand place the nuts when installing the seat. Im sure there are other ideas to mount the seat.. Be sure to use a large area washer on the seat side for final installation.

Dorsal
01-24-2012, 09:29 AM
Learn somthing new everyday, nice upgrade.

dginok
01-24-2012, 09:38 AM
I am using Monadnack clip nuts from Aircraft Spruce to secure the floorboards. Not sure if those would work for what Steve is referring to. My 2008 kit does not have this handy feature.

akarmy
01-24-2012, 09:52 AM
These tabs are on the fuselage to mount the seat. No need for zip ties.

Nice upgrade. This is something that I have looked at every time I cut the zip ties. It's on my list of potential future upgrades to deal with.

Thus far my best idea has been to take some adel clamps around the top tube without the rubber backing, then bolt through that.

The other thought was to hysol down a triangle of alum to the tubes somehow and drop in some nutplates.

jiott
01-24-2012, 04:57 PM
I ran into this same issue as I tried to put nut plates onto the prewelded tabs. The small rivet holes are off by only a very small amount, so I used the nutplate as a drill guide and redrilled the rivet holes, essentially ending up with a slightly egg-shaped hole. I then riveted on the nutplates with pop rivets and they seemed to hold fine in the slightly out-of-round holes. Its not like there are flight loads on these nutplates.

Jim

ken nougaret
01-25-2012, 02:04 AM
i see john's answering questions even while relaxing in the bahamas. now that's dedication!

Dave S
01-25-2012, 01:10 PM
We have very nearly the same airframe Dorsal has - manufactured about the same time - no tabs for the seat either.

Just another option for tab-less folks. I don't have a photo; but, we used the plain AN 742 clamps (which are cheap, no cushion band, and also appear to be a little thinner than the ADEL clamps with the cushion taken off) to go around the tubes. To cushion the clamp from the tube a single wrap of Hockey Stick Tape was placed (Conveniently comes in black or white and sort of a non-slip surface) around the tube where each clamp went. The remainder of the assembly uses a machine screw with a washer and nylock nut to secure the seat to the frame - approximately at each point where a zip tie was called for in the manual. Provides an extremely secure assembly.

I really like the modification John came up with on the recent models - running a screw into a nutplate on a tab is SO much slicker:) than messing with a clamp and separate hardware pieces. I have to get the rear floorboards and baggage thing out of the way to get at the nuts.

Sincerely,

Dave S
St Paul, MN
KF7 Trigear
912ULS Warp

Esser
05-04-2013, 10:01 AM
Is the hardware for the new seat pan install included in the kit? My instructions say zip tie but I have the nut plate tabs. Do I have to buy nut plates or did they come with somewhere? If I do have to buy nut plates, what size do I need? I have not worked with nut plates yet so any help would be appreciated.

AirFox
05-04-2013, 12:04 PM
Esser, I had extra nut plates with the wing tip hardware. I used these nutplates for the seat and the rudder trim tab that I made.

Scott

HighWing
05-04-2013, 04:47 PM
Josh,
I don't know if this wil be helpful or not. Are the tabs drilled with pilot holes, or is the center hole full size for a camloc? If pilot hole drilled, I would suggest Nutserts. They are available from ACS. You will need the "disposable" tool. What I do when inserting them is chuck the cap screw in my cordless drill and with the tool in a box wrench spin the cap screw to set the nutsert in place. If you use the allen wrench, eventually it will wear and slip. My disposable tool is years old. It is only the cap screw that needs replacing from time to time.I have used them extensively on lots of projects. I prefer them to rivnuts because they are steel vs. aluminum.

jdmcbean
05-06-2013, 09:14 AM
Is the hardware for the new seat pan install included in the kit? My instructions say zip tie but I have the nut plate tabs. Do I have to buy nut plates or did they come with somewhere? If I do have to buy nut plates, what size do I need? I have not worked with nut plates yet so any help would be appreciated.

The tabs for the seat are setup and pre-drilled... You can use nutplates, nutserts or use hardware. The tabs can be reached by hand to put nuts on. The hardware makes removal and installation a little more difficult.. the nutserts ar a good choice but can slip over time.. again, you can get to them by hand so if they did slip they would not be hard to fix. The nutplates will require you to drill new holes.. or enlarge the holes.

redbowen
05-16-2013, 07:27 AM
In the age of the Internet a picture is still worth a 1000 words.:)

Esser
06-09-2013, 05:31 PM
I am thinking of going with rivnuts. I was going to use nutplates but the holes are about 1/8" too far apart. I have never used rivnuts. Does anybody have any recommendations for the rivnut puller and for notching?

Av8r_Sed
06-09-2013, 08:22 PM
I've used the Harbor Freight 3 in 1 rivet puller to set rivnuts for my tail access cover. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-riveter-kit-94100.html

It did the job without breaking the bank. I'm not sure about the notching you mentioned.

Esser
06-09-2013, 08:29 PM
I was under the impression you put a small notch in the material you are adding the rivnut to about a 1/4 of the diameter of the rivnut so that it resists rotating.

jiott
06-09-2013, 08:33 PM
I used nutplates. I believe they are more secure than rivnuts. Yes the two rivet holes in the weld tab are too far apart, but I don't think they are as bad as 1/8". Using the nutplate as a drill guide I just egged out the holes a little until the rivets went in just fine. The two rivets in a nutplate only serve to keep the plate from rotating while you tighten the screw, so I wouldn't worry much about some slightly egged out holes in a non-critical spot like the seat. The old way was to use zip ties!

Jim

Av8r_Sed
06-09-2013, 09:05 PM
I didn't notch mine and they haven't spun. Guess I'd like the answer on the notching tool too.

Esser
06-10-2013, 10:08 AM
This guy has a nifty tool for notching.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=P_uu_ba6qAM#t=35s

colospace
06-25-2013, 02:39 PM
I used ClickBond nutplates. They are used quite a bit in aerospace. They are not the cheapest solution, but they do not use the factory "nutplate" holes at all as they are bonded in-place with the ClickBond adhesive and unique fixturing system (the pink thing in the photo).

Dave S
06-25-2013, 03:49 PM
Gary,

What do you have on the floor that looks like some sort of sound deadning/insulation?:confused:

THX

Dave S
KF7

colospace
06-25-2013, 05:13 PM
Dave,
I presume you refer to the out of focus speckled light grey under everything. That is the poly finish on my garage floor. Makes it an adventure to find dropped nuts and washers, etc. :D

Dave S
06-25-2013, 05:33 PM
Gary,

Thanks for the clarification....not what I thought, but makes sense.......now I do feel a little bit embarrassed:o

Cheers,

Dave