Oil Change 912

[SkySteve]

I just finished my third 30 hour oil change this year on my 912. I hereby file a formal complaint against Rotax for their oil system. They need to hire an engineer from Ford to design an oil system where after changing oil you are not required to take a bath. Wow, that's a terrible job.

Gotta head home now and change the 12 quarts of oil in my Dodge Commins pick up truck!

[Dorsal]

That's funny and I can relate. I did however just do my 6th oil change including cleaning the tank and managed not to get a drop on me or the floor (got a system now).

[SkySteve]

A system? You've got a system that keeps oil off you, your plane and the hangar floor? Tell me, tell me please! Maybe if I used your system I would have more time to fly. Then I would need more oil changes!

[DesertFox4]

I sympathize Steve. The more you fly the more you change oil. BTW, I'm on my 30th oil change. You'll get much better at it.;)

[SkySteve]

30th? I'll never live that long.

[HighWing]

Steve,
Try this. Get a metal gas can two gallons or so. Attach a vacuum line to it from a vacuum pump. An old compressor from a defunct refrigerator or freezer works great. Attach a length of tubing with a foot or so if 1/4" metal tube on the end - I used a carbon fiber arrow blank. Run the engine to get it up to temp, remove the filler cap and dip stick and insert the tube and suck out the oil. I also made a device that clamped to the exhaust pipe and ran under the oil filter that acted like a gutter, so when I removed the oil filter, it captured all the leaking oil and ran it down a channel to a container. Never a drop. Then with the converted gas can, it is easy to extend the neck and transfer the oil to the recycle container.

[DanB]

Steve,
Try this. Get a metal gas can two gallons or so. Attach a vacuum line to it from a vacuum pump. An old compressor from a defunct refrigerator or freezer works great. Attach a length of tubing with a foot or so if 1/4" metal tube on the end - I used a carbon fiber arrow blank. Run the engine to get it up to temp, remove the filler cap and dip stick and insert the tube and suck out the oil. I also made a device that clamped to the exhaust pipe and ran under the oil filter that acted like a gutter, so when I removed the oil filter, it captured all the leaking oil and ran it down a channel to a container. Never a drop. Then with the converted gas can, it is easy to extend the neck and transfer the oil to the recycle container.

Lowell, That is a great tip. I now look forward to my first oil change :D

[whitewulfe]

I don't know, those old 7.3L powerstroke diesels that Ford had were a PAIN to do an oil change on, and that was in a full sized bay with a pit - I swear the filters (which held something like 1.6L of oil by themselves) weighed close to ten pounds and were quite awkward to remove, not mention had a tendency to fall towards you! Chevy had a -really- nice system for their trucks though :D

[SkySteve]

Did I say Ford? I must have meant Chevy.

Lowel, I like your idea of building an oil vacuum. So you don't remove the tank screen and bottom plate and don't wipe out the tank bottom? Do you remove the bottom engine drain plug and how about the dirty oil in the oil cooler?

[Slyfox]

here is what I do. I turn the prop over until it burps. I remove the lid off my oil tank. I put about 3 rags right at the middle of the engine. Set the lid on those rags. I take a suck gun and suck out all the oil. I also set my screen in a flat pan on the floor. I suck out the oil and put it in a 1gal jug. than I'll take a rag and wipe out the tank, I use those blue rags you buy at costco or a parts store. Than I take the filter off, it drains into the flat pan on the floor. I take new oil and fill the new filter, sometimes takes a couple tries, soaks in. Than I take new oil and fill the oil tank to the level it was before, about 2 inches from the top. Than I put the screen in and put the lid back on. I now take the filter and put that on, I have the drain pan under it still any drips go in there. I'm done, I don't take any lines off, why, you only get about half a cup or less anyway. big deal. I jump in the plane and turn it over with the mags off, up comes the pressure. I'm done. That easy. No mess. than I take the plane out of the hangar and run it, than recheck the level. :D

[kitfox2009]

I use a 2 foot piece of flexible plastic (actually sink drain hose from an RV). I cut one end on a angle that allows it to go under the drain plug on the tank and still allows enough space to remove the plug. The hose lays along the firewall with the bottom end coming out in front of the rad. I set a 4 liter motor oil jug ( with the side opened up) on a stool.
I loosen the plug first, then lay hose in, unscrew the plug with fingers and let the plug drop in the hose. It slides down into the jug with the oil. The only messy part is picking the plug out of the jug after the oil is drained away.
One question I have is. How much oil do most people need to replace? Usually I only require 2 liters in order to refill.
I also use a hose clamp on the filter and safety wire to the engine block.
Cheers Don

[kitfox2009]

Hi Sly

Yes, I do that as well. I wonder if I let the oil run out here for a while will that give me a "more complete" change. I always plug off the hole while I clean off the magnet. Fortunately, I never find much on the plug!! Usually a little very fine material.
Cheers

Don

[HighWing]

Steve,
Regarding your question about removing the screen and wiping the tank. I have given that a lot of thought. In the past, for nine years, I did exactly that, but then came the flight to Idaho for the factory fly-in four years ago when we had a low oil pressure indication in the gauge and I put it down in the boonies resulting in a destroyed airplane and a week in the hospita for both of usl. The FAA engine check found a lump of something blocking the pick up tube in tank. My thinking after that is somehow something got dropped into the tank during my last oil change.

I would guess that of all the internal combustion engines out there in the whole world, we Experimenal Rotax guys are the only ones that open the tank and wipe it out trying to get the last vestige of the old oil out of there. Then again we change the oil every thirty to fifty hours which probably equates to every 2000 miles or so in the auto world, and I wonder what our point is. I think this time around, I will suck out the old oil, change the filter, "vent the system" and go fly. No chance of getting anything left behind, and I seriously doubt it will significantly affect the longevity of the engine - but just thinking at this point. If I do change my mind and end up wiping the tank, the tank will be reassembled after a thourough visual check of the empty tank and the oil will be put in after everything is buttoned up with absolutely no chance of that chunk of gunk that ended up costing us so much getting even close.
Lowell

[Dorsal]

For me I wipe down the tank as I find the silvery sludge on the bottom of the tank disconcerting (I assume this is lead from the 100LL). What concerns me a little is that no matter how you change the oil you potentially (I think likely) put a slug of air into the lines feeding oil to the engine. My method involves disconnecting the tank and having my son hold his thumb over the feed line while I empty, clean, reassemble and refill the tank. When I am done I also turn the engine over with the started for 5-10 sec intervals 2 or 3 times. When I get good response from the oil pressure I start it, run for a bit then check the levels. The only time I pressured the tank while pulling the prop through was when I originally put oil in the engine. Rotax suggests that removing the tank is "opening the oil system" whereas changing the oil with the plug is not. As far as I can tell once the tank is empty the feed tube will drain and air is introduced to the system. Anyone else concerned with this or am I just over thinking it.

[Tom Waid]

Since I've yet to change the oil on a 912 I've been following this conversation closely. The conversation about pumps reminded me of this. (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=15607&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10106&subdeptNum=10434&classNum=10440)

Back in the days of living on a sailboat I had to empty the oil from my auxiliary engine by pumping it out the dipstick. Since the drain plug only had about 2 1/2 inches clearance the hand pump was the only way to go. When I'm finally flying my Kitfox perhaps I'll find another use for this little pump

[War Eagle]

I burp the engine to make sure there is no oil laying in the engine sump.

I have installed a Safe Air oil drain valve on my tank and when it is time to change the oil I just put a piece of clear tygon tubing over the end of the valve and then I relase the valve and the hose goes into a clean empty milk jug. I can see when the tank is empty stopped draining) and then I just shut the valve and remove the tubing.


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/oilv1.gif


The filter is changed with a pan under it to catch drips.

I then collect a sample of the oil to send in for analysis and then I cut the filter open to inspect. This is the part where I have to be careful not to get oil on the bench.

The valve and filter are wire tied in place. I also don't remove any of the supply or return hoses for the oil change.

[SkySteve]

Man, there has been some great info shared here. I think I will modify some of the things I have been doing. Good point about do we take our cars apart to change oil. No way. I think I have been over thinking this whole thing. Thank you guys.

[HighWing]

Interesting. Slyfox, your comment about your routine was exactly what I said to the FAA investigators during that interview. To this day, I don't know how it happened, but it did. Also your comment about never removing a hose, how do you then purge the system of introduced air as recommended by Rotax - what they call "venting the system". It appears to me we have both been bitten by the same bug. Your case involved a hose that came of, mine something introduced while the top was off the oil tank. Your solution stop taking hoses off, mine stop taking the top of the tank off. It would seem that a hard and fast checklist would take care of both issues, but will it? Not in aviation it won't.

I did a very close examination of the filler neck after our incident and there is no way to introduce a foreign body into the system through that access. Then with the tank full of oil before closing the lid, there is no way for that last check for foreign material in the tank before closure. For you guys removing and wiping, I would strongly recommend closing the tank with it empty so the last look shows it empty - Then install the bottom plate, Screen and top then adding the oil after tank closure. Of course, just my opinion.
Lowell

[whitewulfe]

Man, there has been some great info shared here. I think I will modify some of the things I have been doing. Good point about do we take our cars apart to change oil. No way. I think I have been over thinking this whole thing. Thank you guys.

First generation MR2's (86-89.5) usually require you to remove one of the rear quarter panels to change the oil (can't remember if it was engine or transmission oil though), and mid-90s Chevy Cavaliers (or was it early 2000s, can't remember) require you to stick your tongue out the right way AND be a contortionist to take off the filter as the access is through the front passenger wheel well (which causes techs who don't know any better to seriously think about removing the passenger front fender)!

But yes, in general, if you're taking your car apart to change the oil, something's kinda fishy in my eyes :p (or you're me, when I used to autocross, and decide to rip apart half the front end to tweak ONE thing during said oil change o_O :rolleyes:)

[kmach]

[quote=War Eagle;18887]I burp the engine to make sure there is no oil laying in the engine sump.

I have installed a Safe Air oil drain valve on my tank and when it is time to change the oil I just put a piece of clear tygon tubing over the end of the valve and then I relase the valve and the hose goes into a clean empty milk jug. I can see when the tank is empty stopped draining) and then I just shut the valve and remove the tubing.


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/oilv1.gif





I have the same safe air valve on my 912ULS oil tank. I burp the warm engine and attach a clear hose to the valve and open it. when it's done draining I close the valve and add new oil. I change the filter, prefilling it before install.

I use premium unleaded fuel, so I think there should be very little build up in the oil tank

Rotax only requires venting/purgeing the oil system if you disconnect the suction line from the oil tank to the oil pump or components of this suction line, such as dismantleing the oil tank.

I cut the filter and inspect.

I will add removeing the gearbox magnetic plug for inspection in the list of things to do , just because on my setup it would be the easiest to access and remove the magnetic plug when the oil filter is off.

[WWhunter]

Harbor Freight Tool sells an oil 'vaccuum' that can be used to suck the oil out of the tank. It is relatively inexpensive. The one I have operates on 12 volt. Has a small enough hose that it fits down a dipstick tube. I originally bought it for oil changes on my Argo which is much hard to do than the Rotax.

[catz631]

Slyfox'
The Safe Air drain will fit on your 4. I have it on mine. It is difficult to get a tube on it with a hot engine though (burn hands). I had to make a device using an aluminum tube with a short piece of plastic tubing over the end so that I could push the plastic tube over the drain tube from below the engine. I also have a small valve attached so that I can stop the oil flow and collect a small amount for oil sampling.
However if I was to do it again,I would use the Curtis drain valve as it has 2 barbs on it which would make for easier opening.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
912UL
Milton,Fl

[Dorsal]

I guess I don't buy the notion that if you do not remove lines you don't introduce air into the system. As soon as the oil in the tank is drained below the pickup tube the tube will drain and the normal siphon action will draw air into the system. I am not sure how much or if it matters but disconnecting the line and sealing it (with an available thumb) to prevent siphoning seems at least as effective. FWIW the method I use came from a certified Rotax tech who I brought the plane to as soon as I finished my 40 hours. I asked him to do a 100 hr inspection on the engine with me in tow and this was how he recommended changing the oil. Now I recognize a certified tech is just another fellow who works on engines (I don't subscribe to the myth of experts) but he did have more experience and education on the matter than I did.
I also purchased one of the quick drain oil valves at Osh but it ends up too close to a large coolant line running under the tank.
One final thought is that if I where not using 100LL I would be much less concerned with wiping the tank.

[Papa Beach]

I use an oil extractor (Pela 6000). It is clean and simple with no issues.

[DanB]

OK, I just finished reading this thread as I am going to do an oil change today or tomorrow. I purchased an oil remove suction pump cylinder from NAPA. I WAS going to:
1. Run the engine to bring up to operating temp.
2. Pull the top off, suck the oil out then wipe it clean (making certain no foreign objects are inside).
3. place the insides back and put the top back on.
4. Change out the oil filter. I have always filled oil filters ( on cars) with a bit of oil put in the new one at change-out time as well as run a film of oil around the seal. It sounds like this may be a bit of a challenge to keep clean.
5. Fill the oil tank to full ( As my oil tank is one that is cut down, and I have what I believe is the original dip stick, I really down't know where full is. Any suggestions are welcome).
6. Hand prop the engine looking to find a burp...may or may not happen.
7. replace the cap.
Ready to fly?
Lowell, you almost had me convinced not to take the top off the tank but it seems you are not sold yet either way. I do run 100LL w/ decalin, so do I open and wipe or don't I? Is this a guess I will guess I won't thing? Interested in hearing from the factory on this as well as others.
Thanks,
Dan

[Dorsal]

I just changed my oil for the first time since putting a Curtis quick drain on the oil tank. Wow does that make for a painless operation, changed the oil and filter in less than 10 minutes and didn't get a drop on me. :)
I close the drain as soon as the tank is empty and re-fill instantly minimizing the amount of air pulled into the lines. I have decided to disassemble and clean the tank on the 100 hour changes.
The only thing that would concern me slightly about sucking the oil out is you can't get the suction line to the bottom of the tank as there is that plate on the bottom that positions the screen. I'm hoping that draining from the bottom helps get most of the lead sludge out.

[Slyfox]

just pull the plate out and clean it and the tank.

[Av8r3400]

I just bought a NAPA oil sucker, too. It worked great. The model IV tank location makes it almost impossible to drain from the bottom.


I do almost exactly your plan on every change. LEAF says not to bother trying to fill the filter because you can't. There is little room in it to perfill with the new design checkvalve. Oil the seal and install.

One thing I do is to run the motor before putting the cowl back on to check for leaks or other problems.

[cap01]

When rotax came out with the letter about their new filter 825 010 they mentioned not filling the filter before installing it , some new valve they installed in it . As I recall it was still printed on the filter itself to fill the filter but it can't be done . The new filters are nice , no draining back in the engine like the old ones

[DanB]

Thanks guys, more than one maiden voyage going on these days. Just didn't want to make any mistakes with this one. Chuck, thanks for the info on the Rotax filter...hadn't see that one.
Dan

[Dorsal]

just pull the plate out and clean it and the tank.

Oops, my glitch, was thinking the sucking was done without disassembling the tank which, upon reflection, I realize is not practical :o

[HighWing]

Dorsal makes an excellent point regarding the suction method. I used to pop the top and suck the rest by joggling around the bottom. Since I am about to begin my flying as well, I suspect I will be wiping the tank. I repositioned the tank to below the right side carburetor and it is a tight fit, so it remains to be seen just how much I will disassemble.
Lowell

[DanB]

Dorsal makes an excellent point regarding the suction method. I used to pop the top and suck the rest by joggling around the bottom. Since I am about to begin my flying as well, I suspect I will be wiping the tank. I repositioned the tank to below the right side carburetor and it is a tight fit, so it remains to be seen just how much I will disassemble.
Lowell
Lowell, I will be interested in seeing how you did that. I did my first oil change this morning at 0530. I have the box built in the center top of the firewall where the oil tank recesses into (Model IV).This makes it necessary to loosen all the clamps to where the tank top can be tilted forward enough to remove the innards (I'm now envious of the SS guys with all the room up front ;)) Used the suction gizmo from NAPA and it worked just fine. Still took a bath in oil though...just another learning experience.
Dan

[Slyfox]

I have been taking the top off for ever. I just suck it out, I haven't made a mess, I put rags on top the engine for in case. I disconnect NO hoses. When I get to the bottom I remove the screen and set it into a drain pan on the floor, take out the bottom plate. Suck what's left, and then take some of those blue rags from costco and wipe out the tank. Than I put the plate back in and the screen. Fill with new oil to about 1.5 inches from top. put the top back on. remove the filter, prefill the new filter and screw it on, leave the clamp with safety wire intact and just loosen the clamp and take the filter away from that, push the clamp tight to the safety wire and tighten after the filter is installed.

I keep the mags off and crank over until I get pressure. push plane outside and start, than recheck fluid level. done, usually 30 min and I'm flying again.

[catz631]

changed my oil yesterday and it was going well utill I tried to short cut filling the oil tank by just pouring the oil in direct from the bottle( I usually use a thread on bendable nozzle )
The plastic container is very flimsy . When I tilted the bottle,oil shot out of the container and went all over the firewall and oil tank ! So, after 20 min of cleaning that mess up,I filled the tank properly.
Seems I too can't get away from making a mess of it sometimes.
Oh well.
At least the new oil filter fits. I was a little concerned as it is a little longer and there isn't much room with the exhaust so close.
Now to see if it helps to stop the oil backflow and reduced prop turns for "burping" !
Dick

[DanB]

changed my oil yesterday and it was going well utill I tried to short cut filling the oil tank by just pouring the oil in direct from the bottle( I usually use a thread on bendable nozzle )
The plastic container is very flimsy . When I tilted the bottle,oil shot out of the container and went all over the firewall and oil tank ! So, after 20 min of cleaning that mess up,I filled the tank properly.
Seems I too can't get away from making a mess of it sometimes.
Oh well.
At least the new oil filter fits. I was a little concerned as it is a little longer and there isn't much room with the exhaust so close.
Now to see if it helps to stop the oil backflow and reduced prop turns for "burping" !
Dick
Dick, I thought I was home free from having a huge mess as I got the oil in the can, but when I started to hand prop the engine I discovered I put too much oil in. Not unlike you mentioned...about 20 minutes of cleaning the oil off of everything. I also was a bit concerned with the new filter being longer. Rotax didn't do us any favors there.

[catz631]

Yep !...this oil changing can be a messy business !
Dick

[HighWing]

I will be interested in seeing how you did that.
Dan

Dan,
I cheated a bit by redesigning the engine mount. I put it on the right side - opposite the factory side - because of the cylinder configuration. The right bank is forward of the left bank and gives a bit more room for the tank. The two aluminum lines are for the carburetor vent line and the oil tank vent. Also the ignition module is mounted where the tank used to be. A good friend mounted his tank in approximately the same location as mine, but used a firewall mount set-up rather than mounting it to the engine mount. I had to flatten the tank a bit near the bottom so it would clear the cowl.
Lowell

[DanB]

Dan,
I cheated a bit by redesigning the engine mount. I put it on the right side - opposite the factory side - because of the cylinder configuration. The right bank is forward of the left bank and gives a bit more room for the tank. The two aluminum lines are for the carburetor vent line and the oil tank vent. Also the ignition module is mounted where the tank used to be. A good friend mounted his tank in approximately the same location as mine, but used a firewall mount set-up rather than mounting it to the engine mount. I had to flatten the tank a bit near the bottom so it would clear the cowl.
Lowell
Nicely done Lowell, I'm envious.;)
Dan

[Av8r3400]

Lowell that looks really sweet. I've been considering reworking the mount on my 1200 project to locate the tank like that and to allow the use of the Rotax intake plenum. (Maybe a turbo kit in my distant future. :rolleyes:)

The only difference I think I may do is to use the "smooth" cowl. Id like to get more forward visibility.

[cap01]

http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/6-what%E2%80%99s-in-an-oil-filter (http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/6-what%E2%80%99s-in-an-oil-filter)

this is the link to the item on the rotax owners site that explains the new filter . works well at stopping the oil from draining into the engine when the airplane is sitting but still takes plenty of prop blades to get the burp after its been flying .

[HighWing]

I've been considering reworking the mount on my 1200 project to locate the tank like that and to allow the use of the Rotax intake plenum.
The engine mount was an enjoyable project, that became not so fun. It was the prototypical example of how one change can affect so many things - each one becoming an unforseen challenge. I did it primarily because of the trim systems and other mods I made on the vertical and horizontal tails and I wanted the engine about 2 and a half inches further forward for W/B considerations. It didn't add much additional room to no room behind the engine. I had to do plastic surgery on my firewall - Didn't occur to me to build around the firewall. Then plumbing the cooling was a nightmare - I did look at access to the coolant pump, but nothing else. The electrical worked pretty well, but was tight in areas. The relatively heavier 7 makes for much more room between engine and firewall as the engine is even further forward and the task there is a lot easier. I also considered the smooth cowl like the black and green Zebra striped Model IV near the factory. I think it looks really good, but went and modified what I had. Then I always think of my buddy that started about when I did on this one and he has been flying for a year already.
Lowell

[catz631]

Lowell,
Absolutely brilliant !!(as is usual for you)
Dick Maddux
Milton,Fl

[Jerrytex]

Anyone know.... where is the best place to get the new rotax filter? ACS doesn't list any filters for the 912.

[cap01]

Jerry , I've been getting them from either spruce or California power systems .

[DanB]

Anyone know.... where is the best place to get the new rotax filter? ACS doesn't list any filters for the 912.

Jerry, I just got one from John and Deb at the Factory. They always have quick turn-around. Good practice to keep the $ in the "family" if they have the items :)
Dan

[catz631]

Just ordered 2 filters from Spruce. They have finally dropped there prices on them. ( "down" to $19 (and change). Lockwood and LEAF also have them of course.
Dick

[Monocock]

For the sake of an extra 10 minutes, why would you want to suck the oil out of the tank when you could clean the tank thoroughly, inspect the gauze and also get all the sludgy oil out?

Just curious.

[Dorsal]

I think the theory is to suck the oil out then clean the tank but not disconnect the lines and remove the tank. In my case I have a quick-drain on the bottom of the tank and my reasoning for this is as follows.

1) Minimize air in the lines; I suspect that once the oil is below the pick-up tube syphon action will pull air into the oil lines, with this method that is less than 10 seconds. I have no idea if this matters but in my opinion leaving the tank empty or taking the cover off or taking the lines off all represent the same breach of the oil system possibly suggesting a need to purge the system.

2) Disassembly; Everything that is disassembled has the opportunity to be reassembled wrong, I try to be as carful as the next guy but .....

3) It is quick, clean and effective and candidly I am less likely to put it off, 25 hours of flying can go by pretty fast in the summer :)

4) I will fully remove and clean the tank on the 100 hr inspections, re-fill and purge at that time.

Again I have no idea if any of this matters but it's what makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside :) (OK not really but you get the idea)

[HighWing]

I'm pretty sure this will be my routine as well. The annual has been a thorough project in the past. I like the reasoning.
Lowell

[Slyfox]

I remove the top, I do not remove the hoses. suck out the oil. clean the tank and pieces. put back together. remove the filter, fill the new filter, install. I now keep the mags off and crank over until my oil pressure comes up, usually very quick. start the engine, recheck the oil level. been doing this for many oil changes can be done very quickly, usually within 30 minutes.

[mr bill]

For many years on other engines, I have added a powerful magnet (from a hard disk drive) to the low point of the oil filter. Cutting the filters later usually shows a small amount of ferrous metal, mostly from the rings and cylinder walls, but very little in the engine during overhaul.

[Av8r3400]

For the sake of an extra 10 minutes, why would you want to suck the oil out of the tank when you could clean the tank thoroughly, inspect the gauze and also get all the sludgy oil out?

Just curious.


In my model IV, for example, reaching the drain plug at the bottom of the tank is almost impossible. Taking the oil out the top is the only viable option... :(

[Monocock]

In my model IV, for example, reaching the drain plug at the bottom of the tank is almost impossible. Taking the oil out the top is the only viable option... :(

I can't reach the drain plug either. So instead, I take the tank out and tip it upside down, wipe it all out and put it back in. It takes 10 minutes.

[Dorsal]

So who sends their oil samples out for analysis and if so who to and what information do you get?

[Slyfox]

For many years on other engines, I have added a powerful magnet (from a hard disk drive) to the low point of the oil filter. Cutting the filters later usually shows a small amount of ferrous metal, mostly from the rings and cylinder walls, but very little in the engine during overhaul.

there is a plug on the side of the gear box that you can remove, it has a magnet, mine has always been clear of metal.

[SkySteve]

Does anyone drain the oil cooler? I always do but am not hearing anyone mention that step in this discussion. Some greyish lead induced oil always comes out of the cooler. After filling the oil tank with fresh oil, I remove the plug with the pressure spring and ball on the oil cooler, then induce just a small amount of light pressured air into the oil tank overflow hose. This circulates the oil thru the oil cooler which I let drain into a pan until clean oil appears. Then re-insert the pressure ball, spring and plug.

[Slyfox]

I use auto gas, so I don't think it is needed. If I have to use 100LL I use the decalin. I've never had to do it. I stopped when I found that less than a cup is drained when draining hoses and such.

[DanB]

Just a heads up...
As a newbie in the world of all things Rotax and maintenance, I have been looking around for a wrench that will remove the oil filter off of my 912S.
The following link to CPS shows a wrench that advertises specifically for the new filter (14 flute).http://www.rotaxparts.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=1458 Long story short... It will not fit between the exhaust pipe and the filter...no way. :mad:

What I found to work was one of those slip ring wrenches only after I run some thin rubber around the filter. I think I will just glue the rubber to the inside of the ring and call it good.

[Slyfox]

big pair of channel locks.

[akarmy]

I use this one.

http://www.rotaxparts.net/ProdImages/13527L.jpg

12" Oil Filter Wrench (http://www.rotaxparts.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1382)

[SkySteve]

I use the same one Andy uses. Great wrench.

[DanB]

I use this one.

http://www.rotaxparts.net/ProdImages/13527L.jpg

12" Oil Filter Wrench (http://www.rotaxparts.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1382)

Thanks guys, always good to know what works...may look at getting one later on.

[Dorsal]

I use the same one, $7 harbor freight.

[Slyfox]

just being creative here. take a cross screwdriver and punch a hole in the filter and you know the rest of the story. done that to a few in my time.

[Av8r3400]

If you drain your oil cooler (I don't have one) you need to repurge the oil system because you have introduced a large air bubble into the system. If you don't do this you could have oil starvation problems.

Since I don't have a cooler I don't know the proper procedure for this, but this is what LEAF has said in maintenance seminars I have attended.

[SkySteve]

If you drain your oil cooler (I don't have one) you need to repurge the oil system because you have introduced a large air bubble into the system. If you don't do this you could have oil starvation problems.

Since I don't have a cooler I don't know the proper procedure for this, but this is what LEAF has said in maintenance seminars I have attended.



No, you do not introduce air into the oil system the way I do it. First I refill the oil tank with new oil. I then introduce low pressured air thru the overflow line on the top of the oil tank. This moves oil into the system but since the oil tank is full of oil the low pressure introduced air does not enter the enclosed oil system, it just causes the new oil from the tank to purge the old oil out of the system.

[DanB]

just being creative here. take a cross screwdriver and punch a hole in the filter and you know the rest of the story. done that to a few in my time.

It always works as a last resort:) don't forget lots of shop towels for that one.