Bubble Door Installation

[Ak360]

Anyone have some good photos and hints for successfully installting SS bubble doors. It sounds like they recommend bolting them in rather than the manuals direction of rivetting them in place. I would like to try an avoid cracking them or messing up the door frame as there is much margin for error.

My thought was originally to drill through the frame first (if bolting is the suggested method, then using the plexiglass bit to match drill into the plexiglass. Securing the structure with pan head screws with rubber washers and cap nuts on the inside.

They talk about flush (tapered) screws, but I am concerned about cracking.

Any insight or personal experience with this would be appreciated.

[hansedj]

Here are the instructions I used and I attached a picture, I also used rivnuts so I would not have any nuts showing on the inside. Harbor freight tools for the rivnut tool and ebay for the tape used. the tape really sticks leave the backing on until you have the door right where you want it.

[Ak360]

I am assuming you installed the Riv-nuts on the outside of the door frame (against the window) rather than drilling all the way through.

Did you have any trouble with the lip on the Riv-nut where is touches the window as you tightened the screws down?

[Dorsal]

FWIW I used the tape plus black enameled SS sheet metal screws with plastic washers, not as good as riv-nuts but is holding strong at 150 hrs.

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/album.php?albumid=202&pictureid=2427

[hansedj]

That is correct only drill half way through. no trouble with the lip becouse of the tape you put on.

[cap01]

the rivets are not the way to go . the lexan windows on my doors are pop riveted on and after a couple of years are starting to get small cracks . the rivnuts sound like a good idea when the cracks get bad enough to replace the lexan

[rogerh12]

My model 2 doors got fuel on them and it crazed the lexan bad. Does anyone know of a coating I can use on my model 4 doors to prevent this, or some other idea?


Thanks
Roger

[Av8r3400]

Mine are drilled through with locking nuts on the inside and counter sunk screws with dimpled washers on the outside. I like the riv-nut idea much better, though.

I have scars on my head from those damn nuts on the inside of the frame...

(DJ ...and I thought I was the only one who sticks my headset, upside down, in the crook of the lift strut. )

[jrevens]

Lexan (polycarbonate) IS fuel sensitive... Plexiglass (acrylic) is much less vulnerable (if at all) to gasoline. Lexan will craze, & is sensitive even to the fumes.

[rogerh12]

John;
Yes, I agree with you, lexan crazes like ... well... crazy, when exposed to even a small amount of fuel. I buy my plastics from TAP Plastics, things like bearing material, but I noticed they are now offering a chemical resistant AND impact resistant plexiglass, called Acyrlite PLUS. It is advertised as a new High optical quality Acyrlite, sold in sheets and provides the clearity of acrylic with much greater impact strength for durability. Rigid, tough, and lightweight, Acyrlite Plus sheet is said to easily fabricate and machine, including cutting, routing, forming, and cementing.

Here is their web site:
http://www.tapplastics.com/index.php?

Maybe this is the best choice for doors and windshields?

Roger