Show us your panel

[efwd]

Thanks Paul. Clark, The VP is nice. I have a 912iS engine. It doesn't run through the VP so there is electricity running outside the VP so you don't really have a comprehensive representation of your power when you look on the screen. But, I don't really know if the engine stuff will come through the screen via the EMU. I know there is a bunch of configuring I have to do with the G3X yet. I am really not the guy to talk to about anything electrical. I have a severe aversion to it so I am certainly going to come off biased. You can read the VP manual by downloading it from their website. It is very thorough. It has sections that specifically deal with different engines etc etc. They even tell you how to provide power to the LED lighted switches. Paul understands it, that is evident. Im not sure how I would do the electrical if I were to build a second system. I maxed out the power switches but I still have room to provide power from pins I have not used. I believe my VP has 10 switches and 24 power pins. I guess they provide more power pins than switches for things like the lights. I have one switch but my two landing lights are on separate pins so that the Wig Wag function works. Just one example. VP customer service is very good also.

[Clark in AZ]

Thanks for the explanation, it sounds like you're going to have a really nice setup.


Clark

[aviator79]

I'll add that if you do the VPX, and send your panel out to be laser-cut, powdercoated and silk-screened, you end up with a setup pretty similar to a Quick Panel from AFS. I haven't done a direct cost comparison, but if you're considering a Quick Panel, you might do a careful trade study between the QP and a VPX setup. I think cost-wise it probably comes out pretty similar if you're careful to include all the wiring harnesses, switches, connectors, etc, that come with the QP. A little more work is done for you with the QP, and it's a "one-stop-shop" experience vs trying to find shops to farm work out to. The VPX would give you a little more flexibility though, and you could avoid a 6 month lead time. I'm not necessarily saying I'd do anything different. I'm really happy with my panel, and the support from AFS and Dynon has generally been superb after some early hiccups.

[yoda]

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16599&d=1543698014http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16598&d=1543698008http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16597&d=1543698000http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16596&d=1543697995http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16595&d=1543697987http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16594&d=1543697973



Still old school, but ADSB compliant.
Trig Avionics

https://www.trig-avionics.com/

TY91 Radio
TT22 Transponder/ADSB out
TN72 GPS Position source
PM 1200 Intercom
Statux ADSB in to Ipad FltPlan Go EFB app(its free)
https://flttrack.fltplan.com/FltPlanInfo/FltPlan_Go-Android-iPad_Info.html

[Flybyjim]

I am working on my panel and you all are showing great workmanship and nice ideas. A question I have is about the round switches from Kitfox, I received a few and was a bit disappointed that they just push through a hole with no threads on the switch so there is no locking ring like almost all other switches. With this said I have no experence with this type switch so those of you who are using them I would love some feed-back on your thoughts and those with hours on your panel do you find the switches getting loose through vibrations that come with every plane.

[Esser]

I had two styles that were supposed to be the same size and annoyingly the one was loose. I replaced those.

Basically there are two “spring tabs” on the switch. I took a small flat file on edge and notched a slot for that ear to fall into so it wouldn’t rotate.

[jmodguy]

Take a look at these. NTE makes dc rated switches

https://www.nteinc.com/switches/pdf/rocker-rd-hole.pdf

https://www.nteinc.com/switches/pdf/rocker-illum.pdf

[P Morel]

These are pretty cool too.

https://rockerswitchpros.com/

[Flybyjim]

Thank you for all the ideas guys. I spent a couple hours today drilling, sanding with a dremel, filing a location notch and in the end I have a nice tight fit. Thanks for all input and thank you Carl for the phone call today. I understand the time issues with building a house.

[RedRooster]

Here is the updated panel on my 1993 Kitfox 4:
Dynon D3 and 10" IPad with Foreflight along with UAvionix ADS-B In/out using old Narco transponder and new Icom VHF seems to be the best of old and new for me.

[Dave S]

Kirby,


Looks like you have made excellent use of your existing panel real estate. I love the uAvionix in/out, not outrageously priced - easy install and it tested out flawlessly. I have a smaller screen (7") with the iFly GPS which directly interfaces with the uAvionix.

[RedRooster]

Thanks Dave,
Took a lot of trial to get things to fit without starting with a new panel.
The Ipad barely fits with a RAM mount (no case) and I gained some room by going from a 3" tach to a 2" digital. Really like the new Dynon D3 too.
Both have synthetic vision and remove with just a click. Nice to take your Ipad inside for lunch when your're deciding on the next stop!

[Delta Whisky]

I was going to wait to post panel pictures until it was complete then I woke up to the realization that someone might see something in my plans I've missed. Here's the current version. (To be honest, I'm also interested in checking out the new picture posting process.)

Update - the picture posting process is a DRAMATIC improvement. Thanks to our Admin!!

[PaulSS]

Of course, it's all incredibly personal how we design our panels but why have a separate EFIS and EMS? If GRT don't combine the engine stuff into their EFIS than how about something like an MGL Explorer Lite in place of those two panels? By vario, do you mean VSI or is that meant to be an altimeter? Why a standby ASI & VIS, instead of an ASI & Alt? IF you went down the MGL EFIS route then your standby instruments could be where your EMS is. Also, if you were to buy only the radio box of a Trig radio, then you can remote mount it anywhere you like and control it through your EFIS. Same with their transponder.

It could be that you've already bought the GRT stuff etc, in which case ignore all the above :D

[Delta Whisky]

PaulSS - Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I don't need to have the EIS in the panel (the EFIS uses the same data) and at first didn't but because the panel looked really empty I put it in. Also, we all want or passengers to think that it takes a lot of talent to be a pilot and that means plenty of instruments. ;) Then it occurred to me that if I put it in the panel I can have a "less busy" single screen on the EFIS. As a matter of fact, originally I had planned on not having an EFIS, I wanted the old fashioned steam gauge look but you just can't beat an EFIS for a variety of reasons and I acquiesced and joined the modern era.

A vario (variometer) is a really sensitive VSI with a fast time constant - something less than 3 seconds.
21408

My first ride in a Kitfox (lots of years ago) incorporated soaring and I'm looking forward to repeating the experience - hence the vario.

The EFIS will control the transponder and could control the radio (I'm pretty sure) but I'm not setting it up that way as I've not enjoyed trying to change frequencies on an EFIS in turbulence. (Maybe that means I'm not all of the way into the modern era.)

Cheers,

Darrel

[Flybyjim]

Okay, looks like we cut some holes, progress buddy.

[Delta Whisky]

Yep - was fairly pleased with the progress today. Had to address a problem in the house that took a trip to Lowe's but all but one of the planned holes was cut. The remaining two are waiting for the associated parts - just to make sure they really are standard parts.

[Delta Whisky]

Yep - that's the concept to capture. Too funny, love Brit humor!!

[blbills]

Does anyone have a .dxf or CAD file template of a Classic 4 panel? Looking into doing a panel upgrade. Thanks!

[mr bill]

I have a Solidworks file of my panel. However I flattened the the top curve a little to lower the overall height of the panel. Give me your email address and I will send it along with the file that added the lettering adjacent to the controls using a silkscreen process.

[David47]

Darrel, I like your piano hinge idea for the panel. Am looking at hinging mine even though I have a removable boot cowl.

[Delta Whisky]

Thanks David - Mine's removable as well (round cowl) but I wanted more options - not to mention a way to slow down the build.:o My hope is to be able to get to and see everything really easily. We'll see.

[Scot]

I just purchased this Kitfox 4 1200 build which is about 95%+ complete, stored in climate controlled hangar since '94. The dirty part of the build is done, and the panel is as shown in the photo. I have not even begun to ascertain the function of each toggle switch, but this is what I have to start with. Subaru power and 3 blade Warp Drive prop, the build and finish of this aircraft are beautiful so far.

21976

I am looking for suggestions as to how to complete this panel with current generation avionics without starting over. A complete nav/comm solution utilizing the existing real estate.

I will be attending Sun-N-Fun next week searching for good show discounts. All you experienced builders out there, if this was YOUR panel, how would you proceed ?

[Esser]

If it was me, I’d leave the panel as is, take the money I was going to spend on it, and get rid of the Subaru.

GRT EIS is probably the best bang for the engine monitoring buck and in the future you could add a horizon sport EFIS to it

[JoeRuscito]

Is there any reason other than esthetics to go with the black rocker switches as opposed to the stick toggles that come with the FF kit? I was surprised to see these supplied considering how many people end up with the black ones.

[Russell320]

I agree with Josh.....stick with the switches and dump the Subaru. 😕😕😕

[Mesteve]

My awesome wife used her photo shop skills and made me some labels today.

any idea what the name of that font is?

[efwd]

Other than aesthetics, nope.

[Delta Whisky]

Is there any reason other than esthetics to go with the black rocker switches as opposed to the stick toggles that come with the FF kit? I was surprised to see these supplied considering how many people end up with the black ones.


Joe - I haven't come across the stick toggles you're referring to yet but if you're referring to the standard toggle type - I switched to black rocker due to the thought, right or wrong, of reducing head impact damage (HID) in the event of an accident. HID testing is something that has to be considered when certifying aircraft and what I learned in observing that process left a pretty strong impression.

[JoeRuscito]

Tell me more! I originally was thinking the flatter black rocker just because it looks a bit cleaner and was surprised the FF kit came with the standard metal toggles considering a lot of the factory planes have the black rockers.

[Delta Whisky]

Joe - I started with a lead I picked up on this forum and started by ordering one each of five or six different styles and shapes from one of several potential suppliers. The short version of the story is I learned that several suppliers call the same product their part but if you peel the onion just a bit you'll find that they all are from the same Chinese manufacturer AND at a wide variety of prices. Anyhow, I ended up with these: https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=47695.

You can find them elsewhere for north of $4.00 each.

You can wire them so the light is on or not - I measured the current draw for kicks and it was pretty close to nothing. (0.24 Amps if all 12 switches are on at the same time.)

I've attached the spec sheet as well as the Knuckel's writing that convinced me that with the low power stuff we have in our panels now-a-days, these switches should work just fine.

22062

22063

Cheers,

Darrel

[JoeRuscito]

Ive been looking forward to making this post! Here is my panel! I actually used matte black Krylon for the paint at the suggestion of my EAA tech. It surprisingly turned out great and seems damn durable. Then I had the labels printed on with a UV cure ink at a local printer. Ill admit the writing isn't as sharp as I would like but you wouldn't notice until I mentioned it. Also you will noticed I mis judged the Vans glove box overlap and it cut off the Kitfox logo a bit. Even so Im happy with out it turned out for my first try HA! Everything powers up and works as advertised! :D

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[jmodguy]

Looks great! I used Rustoleum. The rattle cans nowadays can provide great results for minimal cost 👍

[Shadowrider]

Looks sweet! Looks like you used the same ELT. Unfortunately they crack. Someone pointed that out to me and after the first engine run, sure enough there is a crack down the seem. If yours does and you come up with a solution let me know.

[MKIIRob]

My MKII 2K panel upgrade so far... part of 532-912 refurb upgrade.

deadline to get back in the air after 12 months Nov.

http://photos.app.goo.gl/U46rRM3D6x21rBsT7

[Skipatrol]

I bought my Kitfox in December 2017 and wanted to rebuild the panel in exotic hardwoods. I replaced the Dynon D100 panel with the Grand Rapids Technologies 7" Sport Ex glass panel. I eliminated the Dynon, two steam gauges and my Garmin GPS. Also cleaned up the switches and added magnets to the right side were I mount a Lenovo Tablet to display ADS-B traffic in the Avare Electronic Flight Bag application, which I highly recommend. If I loose my Sport EX, the Avare application will give me ground speed, location, altitude, heading and airport information, so it can act as a backup to the main panel. Before and after pictures: 2467624675

[Russell320]

Wow.......beautiful job George! It’s great to see you merge your passion for woodworking with your passion for flying. Great layout and very well put together. Congratulations!

[Skipatrol]

Thanks Russ! This was a fun project. Hardest part was learning all the functionality that is packed into these new instruments.

[Russell320]

That goes along with my personal motto....”never stop learning”. Great job!

[Delta Whisky]

By a search it appears that I failed to upload a picture of my panel. Hope this isn't a duplicate but here it is none-the-less:

25537

I tried for simple, light weight and cost effective.

[DesertFox4]

Very nice Darrel. 👍 Nicely laid out. Always liked the GRT EIS.

Question. Whose 2 1/4” radio did you install in your panel. Zoomed in and thought maybe Micro Air or Becker but not sure.

[Delta Whisky]

Thanks DF4 - the radio is a Flightline 760A. It has been working great. (One probably shouldn't make that kind of statement on anything in a panel without the ol "knock-on-wood" motion though.)

[Geek]

........I tried for simple, light weight and cost effective.

And once again the KISS principle shows us a solid way of doing things. I like it Darrel!!
Geek

[DesertFox4]

Thanks Darrel. Yes. Do not ever speak too loudly about avionics working properly.
Went for a short flight with Desertdave today and my radio quit working.
Also can’t get my ADSB-out to work. 😢 Frustrating.
I have a new Flightline 760A. Almost put it on here to sell. Guess I’ll hang on to it a little longer until I discover what’s up with my MGL V6.

[Delta Whisky]

Thanks Geek.

DF4 - For the money I like the Flightline. The only "problem" I have/had is wiring for the intercom. The way I read the instructions, one wire needs to sink to ground to activate it - so I installed a on-off-(on) switch and it turns out nothing is needed. Go figure. I works just fine in the off position and I now know I have extra switch/wiring.

[ken nougaret]

Very nice Darrel! I like it!

[jrevens]

Very clean... I like it too!

[mike92104]

By a search it appears that I failed to upload a picture of my panel. Hope this isn't a duplicate but here it is none-the-less:

25537

I tried for simple, light weight and cost effective.

Can you tell me where you got that fuse panel? I'm looking for something similar.

Mike

[Delta Whisky]

Mike - see my answer on your other post.

[tracstarr]

I've been waiting a really long time to be able to post my panel here. That time has arrived. I've spent more hours that I will admit designing and prototyping to get to this result. I'm personally very happy with it. It was created in CAD and laser cut at a local shop and then anodized black. Each grouping of buttons is specific. Lights/Equipment/Heating/Warning indicators along the top and then engine along the left. I probably tried about 20 different button types along the way but the mechanical feel of the "standard" ones and their solid feel is why I ended up using them. I used upgraded knob style buttons for my dimmer and cabin heat fans and a 5 way hat switch for the control stick. (PTT, trim up, trim down, radio flip-flop, ident). All fuses are through the VPX except for 2 required for the 912is engine which are located on the bottom lip to the right of the throttle. I used EL ribbon for the dash lighting to meet night requirements. Each orange section is it's own aluminum plate panted to match the fabric.

25703

25704

25705

25706

25707

25708

25709

[efwd]

I really like that. Nice work.

[Geek]

Wow. Just Wow. You really did a nice job there.

G

[PapuaPilot]

Beautiful work there, that's something to be proud of!

[DesertFox4]

Great job Keith. Obviously very well thought out. Top shelf workmanship. Looks great! Congrats.
You’ll appreciate your attention to detail every time you fly behind it.

[bbs428]

Very nice! Well thought out.

[tracstarr]

Thanks for the kind words everyone! There was lots of inspiration in this thread... so thanks to everyone.

[CoClimber]

Here is my current thinking for my panel. Mag switches above the key on the left. The rectangular box on the left will be an EFIS, either my own design or one of the commercial units that fit in a 3" hole. The box above the radio is an EMS. There is space above the radio for ADSB out in the future. The tach, ASI, and altimeter slide in from the front because the panel is made from 1/4" ply. I did that because I have a cnc router that won't cut aluminum. The panel is too thick for the instruments to be mounted behind the panel. The tablet is just laying there for the photo but will have a mount that releases quickly so that I can take it with me.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Am I crazy to use plywood?

[Skipatrol]

I used African Mahogany plywood with Maple and Lacewood for my panel. I used 1/2 thick and had do some routing behind the panel for the headset audio control. Everything else was not affected by plywood thickness. I also inlaid two magnets on right side to hold either my phone or a tablet, which has Avare EFB. Lenova Tablet (about $110) displays ADS-B traffic from stratux via wifi. Tablet has GPS so I can use it as a navigation tool if my GRT panel fails. I am happy setup. You can see video of new panel installation at https://youtu.be/8UwbMCAyR-M

[taff]

A little basic as compared to what you guy's are installing.
But I figured, nothing wrong with keeping it simple when I was building my IV back in 2002.

[4Hummer]

Model IV


26853

[Flybyjim]

I guess it is time to show how I am laying out my panel. As I stated once before I am flying from the right seat, 30 plus years flying taildraggers in tandem configuration my right hand is stick happy with left throttle. I wanted a place for a tablet and on the left is where it fits best. It can be flat on the panel, if a passenger wants to help navigate or look up airports or any other info or it can swing out for me to use if wanted/needed during a flight. I do like options. The tablet is attached to a back plate with strong velcro, the back plate is attached to the panel with a piano hinge. There is also a piano hinge on the back side of the back plate to secure the assembly when swinging it out.

[Redline]

25709

Tracstarr, is that button a trim and PTT? If so, care to say where you found it? This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks.

[tracstarr]

It is trim, PTT, Ident, and radio flip flop. Here (http://https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/otto/t5-ch2212/?qs=q7YjwOswUuHLIu81Fuba8Q==&countrycode=CA&currencycode=CAD) is the button I used. And the dimmer switch I used is this (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/vishay/p16nm103kab15/?qs=h4f6qdGYbthHJY6fkF%2F%2F4w%3D%3D&countrycode=CA&currencycode=CAD) one. Make sure to select the ohm rating for what you're doing. I used a 10K and 100K for heater fans control and one for PFD dimming.

[Redline]

Awesome, thanks for the links! Do you ever trip a function accidentally while operating the toggle? Like trying to talk on the comm but accidentally trimming, or vice versa? Just curious how sensitive the toggle is.

Thanks again.

[tracstarr]

Awesome, thanks for the links! Do you ever accidentally trip a function accidentally while operating the toggle? Like trying to talk on the comm but accidentally trimming, or vice versa? Just curious how sensitive the toggle is.

Thanks again.


Not yet. But there's only ground testing ATM with it. That said, the center PTT has a good range and any downward press seems to allow side motion without activation of other functions. As far as I remember it's specific application/design is for aircraft and considered "military grade". Probably why it's so expensive.

[Redline]

Not yet. But there's only ground testing ATM with it. That said, the center PTT has a good range and any downward press seems to allow side motion without activation of other functions. As far as I remember it's specific application/design is for aircraft and considered "military grade". Probably why it's so expensive.

Great, thanks again. Going to order a couple.

[RV6flyer]

By a search it appears that I failed to upload a picture of my panel. Hope this isn't a duplicate but here it is none-the-less:

25537

I tried for simple, light weight and cost effective.
Looks like your panel folds down. If so, how do you lock it up?

[RV6flyer]

Here's mine as of today. All MGL.

9362

9363

9364

9365
Where did you get the glove box?

[Delta Whisky]

I lock in place using the AN3 bolts called out in the design and the support bars that go to the fuse weldment as well.

29094

What isn't shown in the picture of the hinge is the piece of rubber (I used silicone baffle seal - just because I had some) sandwiched between the hinge pieces.
29095

I stayed with the bolts because I didn't want to discover any vibration issues down the road. My not be needed . . . . . . . but . . . . . .

I also added thru collars (don't know what else to call them) in the rod ends that mount to the panel. They are "Hysoled" in place.

29096

HTH. Darrel

[RV6flyer]

Looks like your panel folds down. If so, how do you lock it up?

Thanks for the pictures and explanations. Another question. Since the panel is secured up from the back, how do you unbolt it and swing it down?

[Delta Whisky]

Three small screws release the glare shield. The two bolts going thru the rods go into nut plates and they are out in seconds. Then the three bolts thru the bottom of the panel are removed and the panel is free to tilt. Oh, I just remembered, you asked about the glove box - it is a unit from Van's. A long story of multiple brain farts. I shortened it a bit and now realize I didn't need to but am glad I did. (It is still plenty deep in its current configuration.) I used screws and nut plates so it can easily be removed from the panel but it doesn't need to be removable.
29097

[RV6flyer]

Three small screws release the glare shield. The two bolts going thru the rods go into nut plates and they are out in seconds. Then the three bolts thru the bottom of the panel are removed and the panel is free to tilt. Oh, I just remembered, you asked about the glove box - it is a unit from Van's. A long story of multiple brain farts. I shortened it a bit and now realize I didn't need to but am glad I did. (It is still plenty deep in its current configuration.) I used screws and nut plates so it can easily be removed from the panel but it doesn't need to be removable.
29097
I figured out why I thought the glare shield was not removable. Per my Kitfox 5 building instructions it is not removable. On the V it is screwed to the windshield, not just slid under bracks per the 7 instructions.

[Delta Whisky]

Opps (and, it is a big one), I forgot that mine is also tied via about 4 screws to the windshield. BUT with one of the few, if not the only, SS7 with a round cowl, I don't have a boot cowl and removing those screws is a non-issue. When I first looked at the drawings (not specific to my a/c) I thought that that would be an problem and why I started thinking about shortening the glove box - then I saw that it would be too short for my use and didn't shorten it as much but that meant I'd have to release it from the panel before tilting the panel. Hence the ugly screw heads around the glove box. But, the old adage says: "if you can't fix it, feature it." (The warning was "a long story of multiple brain farts". An example of what causes big additions to the total build time.)

[SomeDay7]

Starfox panel

[Delta Whisky]

That is a nice, clean looking panel.

[bbs428]

Good looking panel. Very nice!

I like the light gray panel with the white lettering in contrast with the dark gray/black SRA's.

[AvDES LLC]

Revival of a 4 year old thread…. Why the heck not?!

[Dave S]

Nice!

With a little less real estate compared to the later model KFs, the newer style instruments fit very well.

I do like the grey panel background.

[AvDES LLC]

Raw aluminum panels are the way to go!

[Flybyjim]

No smoke today, happy to see it all lights up and sees all the units that are attached to this point. Another fun day in the workshop.

[alexM]

I decided to turn hypothetical into reality a couple days ago.
29909

29910
Above will serve as a mock up so I can put it in the plane and verify I can live with the locations of everything.

[styree]

Its coming together. Should have it all done in a couple weeks.
308723087430875

[bbs428]

31068

Here's my panel. I went through many gyrations and changes on paper. This has to be at least change #50.

There's enough room for a G5 or a GDU450 in the future.

[DesertFox4]

Looks good Brett and lots off real estate left for additions.👍

[Jerrytex]

Looks awesome! I am a big fan of the GTR200 radio. So far, mine has been working flawlessly and it's super clear. One step closer!

[styree]

Looks good. I like all the open real estate for future needs.



31068

Here's my panel. I went through many gyrations and changes on paper. This has to be at least change #50.

There's enough room for a G5 or a GDU450 in the future.

[Redline]

Here's my panel. Dynon avionics and a Guardian iPad mount. Not a lot of real estate left.
Designed in CAD and finalized in Adobe Illustrator. The carbon fiber and labeling was all printed by a local graphics company, and surprisingly everything lined up!

31668

[MikeFairbanks]

Not quite reality yet, but should be soon... it is in production at Midwest Panel Builders.

G3X, GNX 375, remote GTR 20 and GMA 245R, G5 for backup, and GMC 507 autopilot. Power handled by a VPX-Pro. And an Airtex 345 ELT in the back. Oh and all labels are back lit.

31671

[bbs428]

Here's my panel. Dynon avionics and a Guardian iPad mount. Not a lot of real estate left.
Designed in CAD and finalized in Adobe Illustrator. The carbon fiber and labeling was all printed by a local graphics company, and surprisingly everything lined up!

31668


Looks super! I'll have to check out the Guardian iPad mount. Great results!

[bbs428]

That is a "one of a kind" instrument panel and backlit to boot. Serious stuff there Mike! Very Nice!

[Redline]

Looks super! I'll have to check out the Guardian iPad mount. Great results!

Thanks - getting there!

[Kitfox Pilot]

Not quite reality yet, but should be soon... it is in production at Midwest Panel Builders.

G3X, GNX 375, remote GTR 20 and GMA 245R, G5 for backup, and GMC 507 autopilot. Power handled by a VPX-Pro. And an Airtex 345 ELT in the back. Oh and all labels are back lit.

31671
That panel has got to be illegal to have in Alaska! Haha. Very nice Mike!