Floorboards and Center Console.

[Pushboy]

I’ve been working on the floorboards and center console and sides.

I have seen that some people install the lip of the console sides under the floor, and some install them like the manual indicates on top of the floor.

Is this just a personal preference thing, or is there an advantage of one way over the other?

Dave.


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[Redline]

We went over the floorboard so the console sides could be removed without removing the floor. Makes inspection of the items in the console much easier (fuel lines, rudder cables, etc).

[Dave S]

I believe the build manual shows the console sides on top of the floorboards.

IMHO - the factory manual configuration makes servicing/inspection easier. After flying and inspecting our plane for a few years now - I am in favor of engineering in favor of serviceability.

Your mileage may vary. Your call.

[jiott]

I'm with Dave and Redline, servicing the console which has a lot more "stuff" in it than under the floorboards is much easier with the side flanges on top. The carpet covers it all up so cosmetics is not an issue.

[Pushboy]

Thanks for the replies. Good points about the service inspection aspect. I think I’ll go with ease of service— however….

My floorboards are not 100% flat— in fact because they are mirror images - one side bows up slightly and the other side bows down. This means there are small gaps under the flange of the console sides when placed on top of the floorboards. This is especially true as that flange is only held with 3 screws.

Any tips on this?

Dave.


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[Dave S]

Dave,

I think the floorboard uneveness is a matter of fit and finish. Adjustments can be made by using spacers (like washers) under the low parts of the floorboard where the screws go in. The original pan head screws may be need to be replaced with a slightly longer screw where there are spacers if that is necessary.

If you are indicating the floorboards are warped, that may require new materials that are not warped.

[jiott]

If you haven't varnished your floorboards yet, a lot of bow can be taken out by moistening the concave side with water. The wet side will expand that layer of plywood and pull it up. This works quite well on warped ribs and false ribs. It may take a couple of sessions of wetting and clamping it flat while it dries.

[Pushboy]

I haven’t varnished them yet— I’ll give that a try and see how it goes.

Thanks

Dave.


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[rv9ralph]

Also, as to the unevenness of the mounting tabs for the floorboards. Make spacers from scrap wood to make spacers, bond to the bottom of the floorboards before varnishing.

[Pushboy]

Hi Ralph — yep… already done. I used some scrap Baltic birch ply I had in the shop. The thickness needed to be about 3mm, which is just slight thicker than the stiffener material provided in the kit. I found on my kit the only tabs that needed shims are the aft two of the mid panel on both pilot and passenger side. I’ll see if I can snap a photo next time I’m working on it.

Dave.


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[efwd]

Since were talking about the center console I recommend that the side panels be trimmed back so that the forward edge is even with the vertical tubes of the airframe at the firewall. Mine were not trimmed back and the forward edge was bent slightly into the centerline direction. As a result, I experienced a momentary binding in my rudder pedal as I applied full rudder during a hard forward slip. It was discovered that the slight inward bend of the thin aluminum caught on the pully bolt of the adjustable Rudder pedal pully. Thankfully the aluminum bent in and is flexible enough that the binding gave way. As a result of the deforming of the aluminum I was not able to reproduce the binding as the aluminum was deformed such that it "fixed" itself. I discovered the mishapen panel and the torn fabric during inspection.

[Pushboy]

Hi - do you have a photo of where or how you are advising to terminate the forward part of the console sides?


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[Brandon Petersen]

The side console covers are cut on the CNC to match the shape of the firewall once completed. It is a good practice to add a slight bend at the tubes to "tuck" them to the center to avoid the pedals.
B


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[Sink Rate]

I did a tiny modification here and simply bent the excess around the tube. This way the panel stays in place and out of the way of the pedal and pully. To remove it, just remove the screws and slide it slightly forward to clear the tube. Easy peasy. I also did not put fabric on it. Just a bit of paint; very light.
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[jrevens]

I did mine similarly but a little different ...

[Pushboy]

I did mine similarly but a little different ...

Hi John — very cool!

Just curious what the middle screw on the bottom flange and on the angle flange screws into? Is it just the wood?

Dave


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[Pushboy]

I did a tiny modification here and simply bent the excess around the tube. This way the panel stays in place and out of the way of the pedal and pully. To remove it, just remove the screws and slide it slightly forward to clear the tube. Easy peasy. I also did not put fabric on it. Just a bit of paint; very light.
333773337833379

Hey Thomas — great looking center console, and exactly what I was thinking of doing.
Maybe you can help me though— I’m not much of a metal worker, and I cannot figure out how to do that bend around that tube with the lower flange bent in the opposite direction. I realize I can cut the lower flange back, but i would need to cut that lower flange back by several inches to clear on my small harbour freight brake. It looks to me like you almost have the lower flange and the bend around the tube intersecting?
Any tips on how to achieves this?

Dave.


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[jrevens]

Hi John — very cool!

Just curious what the middle screw on the bottom flange and on the angle flange screws into? Is it just the wood?

Dave


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Dave,

The screws are all machine screws, and they are mated with metal T-nuts that are inserted through the bottom of the wood floor panels, and Tric-Nuts on the metal tabs. I also installed those T-nuts with a little 5 minute epoxy. The center screws give a little support to the floor panels in the middle. The bottom & rear flanges are .063" 2024-T3 extruded angle that I riveted to the thin (.016") side panels.

That's what my floor panels look like underneath the nice carpet panel kit from Kitfox (that I didn't think I would use until I saw some of them!).

BTW, the heel scuff plates are .015" stainless steel.

[Sink Rate]

Hi Dave,
I too have that little brake from Harbor Freight. With enough clamps it works quite well. I also used it for various avionic related shelves and access panels.
Indeed, you need to trim the lip at the bottom a bit to make this work. You just have to trim it back to the first bend to be flush with the front of the tube. Then do the first bend there, the second one last as shown in the picture. Happy building!
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[Pushboy]

Hi Dave,
I too have that little brake from Harbor Freight. With enough clamps it works quite well. I also used it for various avionic related shelves and access panels.
Indeed, you need to trim the lip at the bottom a bit to make this work. You just have to trim it back to the first bend to be flush with the front of the tube. Then do the first bend there, the second one last as shown in the picture. Happy building!
33384


Ok -- awesome to know you did it with the same little bender. I'll have another look at that and see if I can figure out that first bend.
Thanks again,

Dave.