Glare Shield Overhang

[Geek]

I am in the process of sneaking up on fitting my glare shield on my build. Ran a search on Glare Shields here and from the small return on the search, it appears that a 1 inch overhang is the 'norm'. Looking for confirmation on what people used and were happy with as well as what they used and wished they had done something different. Flush with the panel is a non-event in my book since my plan is to have a string of LED lights under the overhang for lighting.

Thanks ahead of time.

Gary

32571

[Dave S]

Gary,

I think whatever floats your boat is just fine. I went with a 1" overhang with a piece of split rubber tubing ( like auto vacuum hose) to finish off the raw edge. You will appreciate the under lip LEDs - very nice addition. We got the LEDs from Stein Air (the LEDs are also dimmable) and they fit perfectly under the lip.

See entry #173 under "Show us your panel" under electrical for somewhat of an idea how the illumination works (apologies for the background ambient light and map light being on - but you get the idea)

[Shadowrider]

Just future reference for other builders but if you run longer tabs, you don't need to notch the front of the panel. 1" Overhang looks good IMO.

[Geek]

Gary,

I think whatever floats your boat is just fine. I went with a 1" overhang with a piece of split rubber tubing ( like auto vacuum hose) to finish off the raw edge. You will appreciate the under lip LEDs - very nice addition. We got the LEDs from Stein Air (the LEDs are also dimmable) and they fit perfectly under the lip.

See entry #173 under "Show us your panel" under electrical for somewhat of an idea how the illumination works (apologies for the background ambient light and map light being on - but you get the idea)

Thanks Dave. I took look at the lighting and that is exactly what I think mine will turn out to be. Dimmable as well.


Just future reference for other builders but if you run longer tabs, you don't need to notch the front of the panel. 1" Overhang looks good IMO.

Thanks Dustin. I did do the longer tabs but most definitely had to notch. Mostly because my tabs connected to the shield just below (like 1/8") where the shield lipped down. If I hadn't notched, it would have pushed the forward edge of the glare shield up above the windshield/boot cowl intersection. Guess I better go back and take a good look at what I did since I have never made a mistake. (oh heck no).

Thanks to both of you for the input on the overhang. Think I'll go with 1 inch since you can't beat operational input over "Yeah I think that will look right".

G

[jiott]

As has been said, the glare shield overhang is a personal choice that is mostly cosmetic. If you're thinking that the overhang is important to shade the instruments from the sun, forget it. It would take maybe 6" to provide much shade. Do what looks good to you. I also used a split rubber edging to finish of the edge; got it from McMaster-Carr I believe-lots of choices.

[alexM]

I can't comment on the overhang since I haven't done it yet, but I was planning on doing what you're doing. I already have a strip of (red) LED lights. I'll have to hook them up and verify that I can dim them.

Did you find that the published trim template for the Y shaped cutout worked perfectly? And is the line on the template for the bend line on the glare shield or the trimmed edge?

[jrevens]

…

Did you find that the published trim template for the Y shaped cutout worked perfectly? And is the line on the template for the bend line on the glare shield or the trimmed edge?

Alex,

If it’s the one I shared on this forum, the line is the bend line on the glare shield. The template should be considered a starting point, and further trimming may be necessary. It’s just what I came up with for my particular situation.

[Geek]

Alex,

If it’s the one I shared on this forum, the line is the bend line on the glare shield. The template should be considered a starting point, and further trimming may be necessary. It’s just what I came up with for my particular situation.

Alex - I used John's template after I resized it during print so that it was to scale. What John said here is absolutely correct - it's a good starting point. I made a template out of thin cardboard (actually four templates) to determine/dial in the correct depth from the boot cowl/windshield to the Y.

G

[alexM]

Thank you gentlemen. Very helpful.