Dave's SS7

[Pushboy]

So this is probably a bit overdue - but I thought I should start a build thread. I wish I had a cool Fox name for my build like some of you do, but I can't seem to come up with anything...

Anyway, in March I picked up my kit - an SS7. In my case I had it shipped to Syracuse NY, and I rented a truck and drove down from Canada to get it. It all went very very smoothly. I was pretty excited so I didn't take many photos, but that's my rented Penske truck looking pretty small at the freight terminal. Crossing the border and dealing with customs was simple. I did get a few sideways looks from various officials when I told them it was a "kit plane" -- "you know a plane you build your self and go flying in..." But once they realized I was probably crazy - but a law abiding citizen - and was there to pay the tax on the kit, it was business as usual.
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Once I got back to my hangar a friend on the field helped me unload with his skidsteer with forks. That also went super easy and the skidsteer had zero trouble lifting the crate. To be honest I had stressed about this part -- partially because Kitfox factory had told me the crate would weight 3500lbs. I can attest that the crate is very well build and everything is super secure inside. I'm not sure of the exact weight but between the lift gate and the bobcat, we had it in the hangar in no time.
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The next couple weeks (-amid other projects) I worked on the inventory and built some wing rotisseries/shelves and other storage/organization/workspace stuff.
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As of this weekend I have completed the inventory and completely disassembled the crate (that actually took a while.) I've organized everything and begun to really read the manual as well.

I probably won't be the fastest builder (I have many projects on the go...) or the most prolific poster on this site -- but I'm very excited to have "started" even if that is just unpacking.
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Sorry about he upside down/turned photos -- maybe some one else can right them -- I can't figure out how to do that.

Dave.

[bbs428]

Off to a great start Dave, and you got it home without injury to you or the kit!

Exiting to get to it after all the talk and planning. No worries on fancy names or pic's that are wonky.

Glad you are on your way! Enjoy and Congratz!

[Kitfox Pilot]

Dave, always glad to see another kitfox build starting. Exciting times ahead! It's been a long wait for you I'm sure. Harlan

[Delta Whisky]

Congrats Dave. As you have probably seen already this is a great place for ideas, solutions, and lots of money spending ideas.

[dothedr3w]

Woohoo! I'm excited to follow along. Congrats man!

[Pushboy]

After several months of finishing up some other projects - I finally started to actually work on my kit. Some teasing about how the plane won't build itself has been warranted... but now I'm under way.
Nothing crazy exciting here though -- just work on the horizontal and elevator bushings and mounting the trim actuator.

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Welding up a long reamer -- I'm not much of a welder and this did take a couple tries to get a workable system. The bigger one was much easier.

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Worked like a charm...

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Bushing/Bearing work -- thought this was going to be much worse than it was. 10mins per and I had each hinge point complete.

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Same homemade mandrel used as a press for the first part, finished off with the Knipex -- love that tool.

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Some research help from the new family pet -- her name is Karma, if you have some "Swifties" at home you'll know where that came from.

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Sizing the slider blocks.

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Mounting and lining up the horizontal and tail.

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Working out how to line up some of the crazy washer stacks.

I've done a bit more with mounting the elevator and getting the trim actuator powered up and working up and down. Gotta say -- that was pretty satisfying. I don't have many photos of that though -- just a video and need to learn how to post that.

All in all -- having a great time building at this very very early stage.

[Pushboy]

I continue to (slowly) work along at my build.

I have gotten the ribs installed on the horizontal and elevator. And I was able to get them varnished.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231129/3dea147a50f0f5ca875cc6a32df993c5.jpg

I’m now working on the same process in the tail and rudder.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231129/bdf4101e759a01e707d742886d43d6ad.jpg

I had been clamping the ribs to a flat surface every night when I wasn’t working on them… stupidly I must have forgotten one time.

I now have several ribs (mostly rudder) that even with stiffeners applied have some twist in them.

I tried several of the methods described in the factory video to straighten them - but so far no luck.

Anyone else had this issue and any recommendations?

Dave.

[Pushboy]

I’m still working on the tail of my plane. Some photos of my progress…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/b7068f1abead8e9a263e87c760c8c6ff.jpg
Gluing on the fibreglass fairing on the rudder.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/b250b82b9797e9cbd304b477d01e8f88.jpg
Rudder ready for balsa cap.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/a151b8db48092987171ef688aabeda39.jpg
Using just about every clamp I own to glue on the tail fibreglass.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/a2ebddb5f346e6503718e459df500326.jpg
Beginning to fit balsa on the horizontal and elevator ends.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/b28e6c788b60f79917c2047f9be97b17.jpg
Rough shaping…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/393dd7c9c93a34a167fef6449d75be60.jpg
More rough shaping…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231226/521a33dc19b94b66e89c43e8bd668cf6.jpg
General shape complete, ready for bonding.

I wish I was faster… but I’m pleased with the progress — it’s been a lot of fun and lots of learning.

Dave.


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[Kitfox Pilot]

Looking good Dave. One step at a time is all it takes to finish one day.

[Pushboy]

Thanks for the encouragement Harlan.

I try not to focus on how much there is to go…


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[Pushboy]

Still progressing on my build.

I’ve been working on the flight controls and ran into an issue with the flaperon mixer and was looking for advice.
When I went to mount the mixer assembly in the fuselage, it’s out of alignment - enough that when one pivot bolt is slid in the other side will not slide thru.
Anyone else had this issue - or know of a fix?

Good side
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240124/b802a3952ca4aeaa441f5661df0945d7.jpg

Bad side
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240124/ac924a0ce9f3e8facb1e229e3eac06c3.jpg


Also the manual indicates to safety wire the castle nut and bolt to the flap bell crank— is there a special way to do this? I looked in AC43.13 but nothing similar jumped out at me.

Any help would be great.

Dave.


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[Geek]

That does look to be a bit far out eh? (trying to speak Canadian there). If it were me I would send that pic to Brandon at Kitfox and ask him. Certain he has seen this before and knows the fix.

Here's how I did the safety wire for the nuts.

G

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[Pushboy]

I appreciate the Canadian reference!! All good!

Ya the miss-alignment is dejecting as it really took the wind out of the sails so to speak. I have sent an email to Brandon, so we’ll see what he says.

As for the safety wire— thanks for the photo. What’s the tape? I get that is to keep the wire from cutting through the powder coat, just curious of the type of tape.

Thanks again,

Dave.


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[jiott]

I like the tape idea-will add it to mine. The safety wire is to prevent the bolt from rotating, but it will move slightly as the assembly moves back and forth. Over time the wire could chafe into the powder coat.

[Benbell4140]

Here is how I did mine. Also I believe that I’ve read somewhere that the factory now uses cotter pins. Not sure…https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240124/bfd6078d8837c7f1ddd027f0b7e10548.jpg


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[Geek]

I appreciate the Canadian reference!! All good!

Ya the miss-alignment is dejecting as it really took the wind out of the sails so to speak. I have sent an email to Brandon, so we’ll see what he says.

As for the safety wire— thanks for the photo. What’s the tape? I get that is to keep the wire from cutting through the powder coat, just curious of the type of tape.

Thanks again,

Dave.

It's self-vulcanizing silicon tape. Where I safety wire or where I tighten down the strain relief on electrical connectors, I cut it in half and wrap whatever just as you stated; keep it from rubbing through. We called it "F4 Tape" in the Navy.

Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape/dp/B08B3JSJF3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=self%2Bvulcanizing%2Btape&qid=1706138971&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

G

[Pushboy]

Here is how I did mine. Also I believe that I’ve read somewhere that the factory now uses cotter pins. Not sure…https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240124/bfd6078d8837c7f1ddd027f0b7e10548.jpg


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Thanks for the photo Ben — very elegant solution!
I’ll ask Brandon about the cotter pin when I talk to him about the alignment.


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[Pushboy]

It's self-vulcanizing silicon tape. Where I safety wire or where I tighten down the strain relief on electrical connectors, I cut it in half and wrap whatever just as you stated; keep it from rubbing through. We called it "F4 Tape" in the Navy.

Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape/dp/B08B3JSJF3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=self%2Bvulcanizing%2Btape&qid=1706138971&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

G

Thanks for the link in the tape— I’ll keep that in mind. Sounds useful.

Dave.


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[DesertFox4]

Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Seal-Self-Fus...1zcF9hdGY&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape/dp/B08B3JSJF3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=self%2Bvulcanizing%2Btape&qid=1706138971&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1)

G

Thanks for the link Gary. Ordered two rolls.👍

[jiott]

Same kind of tape is sold by a company that calls it Rescue Tape.

[alexM]

Same kind of tape is sold by a company that calls it Rescue Tape.

I once met someone with a great Rescue Tape story. They were motoring a sailboat through the Panama Canal when they had a coolant hose start leaking. One doesn't just pull aside and fix things while transiting the Panama Canal. It requires meeting a very tight timing schedule with no room for having issues.

They were able to wrap the leaking hose with the engine still running, and it worked perfectly. I haven't done anything quite as crazy as that but I always have some around.

[Pushboy]

Just curious if anyone knows if the control column bearing for a series 7 is made of UHMW?

I may have buggered mine up and I have some UHMW around the shop.

Thought I might make a new one rather than wait for a part in the mail.

Thanks.


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[jiott]

I'm pretty sure the factory calls it a Delrin bearing block. Delrin is a brand name for acetel plastic. It has better creep resistance (long term deformation) than UHMW but still has the low friction properties. Its probably no big deal, but I would try to get a block of Delrin; should not be hard to find.

[Pushboy]

I'm pretty sure the factory calls it a Delrin bearing block. Delrin is a brand name for acetel plastic. It has better creep resistance (long term deformation) than UHMW but still has the low friction properties. Its probably no big deal, but I would try to get a block of Delrin; should not be hard to find.


Hey Jim -- thanks for the info. I'll touch base with the factory and ask. I'm sure you are right that Delrin would work well. I think that the block that came with my kit is UHMW though. From what I understand UHMW has a specific gravity (density) of 0.94-0.98 so it should float in water -- which mine does. Delrin if I recall correctly has a density of 1.45ish - so it should sink. When I tried the bearings for the rudder pedals, they in fact sink -- I'm "fairly" certain these are Delrin.

Dave.

[efwd]

I used that tape to fix a garden hose only to have it become a water balloon tumor on the hose. I guess its good for low pressure, below city water pressure levels? Also, I was surprised to find a location or two on my plane where the wire tie simply cut through it over time. Don't overtighten.

[jrevens]

Yeah, it is very soft material and it “cold flows”. Really not a very good choice for every “rescue”. :)

[Pushboy]

So I have updated my build in a while, so here goes.

Over Christmas/New Year I was working on my balsa end caps for the tail/rudder and horizontal/elevator. I probably spent too much time on these, but it was an enjoyable process in the end, and I finally got them to where I was happy — but I’m no sculptor!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/11c55f6ed1053107cc5374211d8baa0c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/2366efaa29b426d3fe8eeec808fb28ea.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/bdeecf4af656284b3c44d1314a557ab8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/d7e8b88700dd4a2ca8480aa86f304562.jpg

I then moved on to the aluminum flanges for the tail access cover and the forward bulkhead.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/cc9975a9882989e77e05fc942b6f3e93.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/f885e4faea6b69533c3e49c7967018f2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/8162c49e2660210e2ee8a3a808c77afa.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/de9f21ad0f95d6bde4cefd03d20fbc27.jpg

Initially I was going to continue with the access panels and fit them, but I went down a bit of a rabbit hole about all the different kinds of hardware combos. I gave myself some analysis paralysis, so to starve of the inevitable insanity I decided to move on to something totally different.

I chose the control column… I found this quite a lot of fun, although not without its own challenges.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/2a5a531f74e27a873f9795b6226febbe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/17d63d3291701c41d2f14c563150ba55.jpg

I got over eager on sanding the column block and created some play in the column, so I fabricated a new column block out of some UHMW I had in the shop. After I had done this, it occurred to me that I could have likely shaved down the “legs” on each side of the large hole of the block — this would have effectively made the vertical diameter of the hole smaller, which is where the play was. Oh- well, I guess I have a spare now.
I did use the technique of the steel sleeves inside the block to prevent excessive cold flow of theUHMW.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240206/3b78326043b481d646978549251257e5.jpg

I continued to work on the control linkages following them rearward.
I don’t have many photos of this stage. I had the usual issues — things not quite fitting right and having to make adjustments to get things to move right. Again I spent more time than I like to admit on getting the controls to glide smoothly in all directions.
I did have considerable trouble with installing my flaperon mixer. In conversation with Brandon at the factory and some creativity I was able to get things aligned and moving freely. That old advice “If things aren’t working…. Maybe take a step back… and start fresh on a new day…”
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240207/d13fafe0fe0ea54d255580b4febf0d88.jpg

Next I turned my attention to the floorboards and center console.
This involved the flap handle and adjustable rudder pedal handles. I was glad to see my kit came with the 1/16 holes already drilled in the detent pins. I do wish the factory had sent some extra roll pins though, as the longest part of that assembly was looking for that tiny pin on the shop floor after I inevitably dropped it. There was the associated stress that came with that situation which also meant I did not take any photos.

The floorboards were back to woodworking, and a better level of skill/comfort.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240207/8c993c9207b60c5d27af5018ab5039cd.jpg

Then the center console and sides. I’m not finished this step, but well on my way. I gotta admit, this was pretty cool — to see the project go from looking like some broken dune buggy frame to some semblance of a cockpit was quite rewarding.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240207/7191abf5313f4af564209bfc6b081ad5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240207/d11cafd74bc2ae89a447bd9e433dd397.jpg

Also somewhere in there I put the rudder pedal and flap detent brackets together. I haven’t installed them in the console yet as I’m waiting for a counter sink bit for the rivets. I also modified the flap bracket for 2 extra notches.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240207/7b868b191356e3d589f51e9b92b34459.jpg

That pretty much brings things up to date.

Thanks to Harlan, Jason, Keith, Patrick, John and anyone else I’m forgetting… But most of all to Brandon - without his constant cheerful advice I would not be this far along— nor this happy.

[jiott]

What you have done so far looks like very good craftsmanship to me.
One small suggestion: On the very aft part of the tail access panel opening I recommend bonding (Hysol) a thin aluminum strip to the back side of the fiberglass tailpost fairing. There will be several screws securing the access panels to that fiberglass fairing. Trust me, they will soon strip out if they only have thin fiberglass to bite into. The aluminum will give the self-tapping screws something much more solid to bite.

[Geek]

Agree with Jim- awesome work Dave. Another suggestion I did on my console side panels was to bend a slight crease inboard at the front end. It moved the front of the console away from the rudder pedals just a bit but mainly did it to add some stiffness to the end of the panel. Doesn't take much. Apologize that the pic isn't really clear but the red line is where I creased it and you can see it's not much.

Keep on it man - great progress and outstanding job.

G

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[bbs428]

Those surface tips look really smooth and nicely shaped. I like how your project is going. Great workmanship!

Keep at it every day - eat that elephant one bite at a time. Lol.

You'll get to the finish line with a plane you'll be proud of!

[Pushboy]

Agree with Jim- awesome work Dave. Another suggestion I did on my console side panels was to bend a slight crease inboard at the front end. It moved the front of the console away from the rudder pedals just a bit but mainly did it to add some stiffness to the end of the panel. Doesn't take much. Apologize that the pic isn't really clear but the red line is where I creased it and you can see it's not much.

Keep on it man - great progress and outstanding job.

G

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Geek— thanks for the kind words.

Your console looks awesome— that’s the look I’m trying to get to.
I’ve been mulling over in my mind the front edges of the sides as you mention. I saw on the tropical tuba pages he cut them flush with the angled tube. Is this what you did but also added a bend for stiffness?

Is the heat shrink over the flap and pedal arms?

And what’s the black floor scuff pad? I have some 1/16 ABS I was thinking of using, but I don’t like how it leaves a lip on top of the floor.

Thanks again,

Dave.


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[Pushboy]

What you have done so far looks like very good craftsmanship to me.
One small suggestion: On the very aft part of the tail access panel opening I recommend bonding (Hysol) a thin aluminum strip to the back side of the fiberglass tailpost fairing. There will be several screws securing the access panels to that fiberglass fairing. Trust me, they will soon strip out if they only have thin fiberglass to bite into. The aluminum will give the self-tapping screws something much more solid to bite.

Hi Jim— thanks for the tip. You are describing exactly why I left that part of the project… I couldn’t decide how to attach the panel, use tinnermans, or nut plates, or the sheet metal screws.
Do you think 0.015 2024 aluminum would suffice in that location?
I have some of that left over.

Dave.


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[jiott]

Dave, I use tinnerman nuts; they don't strip, are self locking, are floating for self alignment, and quick to install or replace.
I would suggest something thicker than 0.015" aluminum, more like 0.032" or more. Of course anything is better than nothing.

[Geek]

Geek— thanks for the kind words.

Your console looks awesome— that’s the look I’m trying to get to.
I’ve been mulling over in my mind the front edges of the sides as you mention. I saw on the tropical tuba pages he cut them flush with the angled tube. Is this what you did but also added a bend for stiffness?

Is the heat shrink over the flap and pedal arms?

And what’s the black floor scuff pad? I have some 1/16 ABS I was thinking of using, but I don’t like how it leaves a lip on top of the floor.

Thanks again,

Dave.

Thanks Dave. I did not cut my panel fronts like topical tuba did (but that is a good resource to look at - lots of good ideas and tips in there). I just left them stock and put the crease in there for some stiffness. The flap and pedal levers are painted flat black. I thought about the shrink tubing route and tried it but the tubing rubbed against the console edge and the detent brackets underneath. Probably could have opened them up a bit but didn't. If I had it to do again I think I might do powder coat. The black floor panels are .032 aluminum that I painted and then put the lacquer sealer on the whole floorboard.

Geek

[efwd]

w ith regard to the center console side panels. I originally had those panels full length. Over the years it seems the leading edge near the fire wall was deformed inward toward the adjustable rudder pedal pulley. During a hard forward slip I felt the rudder pedal bind up then break free. I discovered that the leading edge had grabbed the Castle nut on the pulley and bent it backward as I pushed hard on the pedal. Due to the thin material it bent back 180 degrees when it let go of the nut. I would suggest trimming them back.

[olsonCCR]

Dave,
I have to comment, your craftsmanship looks amazing. Looking forward to watching your progress. I'm working on my wingtips trying to get wings ready to cover but at my rate, you'll probably surpass me in the build process ;). Thanks for posting your pics, and everyone great feedback and suggestions! After reading the posts, I went out to my plane this morning and took off my console panels put a crease in each of them, and hysol'd in a few aluminum backing plates on my vertical fairing.

Kevin
Building KitFox STi

[Pushboy]

Dave,
I have to comment, your craftsmanship looks amazing. Looking forward to watching your progress. I'm working on my wingtips trying to get wings ready to cover but at my rate, you'll probably surpass me in the build process ;). Thanks for posting your pics, and everyone great feedback and suggestions! After reading the posts, I went out to my plane this morning and took off my console panels put a crease in each of them, and hysol'd in a few aluminum backing plates on my vertical fairing.

Kevin
Building KitFox STi


Hey Kevin - thank for the nice words. I've been watching your updates (short videos) online. I'm impressed with all the carbon you've done. I had big plans to do some similar items, but in the end I feel I'll never get in the air if was to do that. My new plan is to use some carbon vinyl wrap on various parts (maybe...) then I can call my plane "the counterfeit carbon".
Anyway -- it's aways good to see photos of parts of builds, I find it very helpful to envision how things go together and fit. The manual is very very good... but a few more photos never hurt.
Good luck with the wing tips.

Dave.

[Pushboy]

This won’t be a full update post, but I’m working on the rudder pedals and I have a quick question.

Like others I have resorted to shimming the outer rudder pedal brackets - in order to get good alignment and free movement.

My question is - how much asymmetry in the thickness of shims is acceptable?

The passenger side has a shim of approx 7/32” thick.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240215/e0d15da4e8b85e321b5be686e813f030.jpg

The pilot side is approx 3/32”
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240215/7d46ea473109bc01a5022d807f895233.jpg

The center is flat on the floorboard.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240215/ecb5e62f0f195273c9e86eef3d010450.jpg

In this configuration all the pedals flop around freely.

Have others had this much of a difference side to side?

Is it worth it to make an angled shim for the center mount to the raise the pilot side and lower the passenger side?

Any advice would be great - Thanks.

Dave.


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[Kitfox Pilot]

Dave the number is different for each build. If 1/4" is what it takes to level it, that is what you need to use.

[efwd]

I don't know, how spongy is that shim on top of yet more laminate wood floor board? I know I have done some hard braking in my SS7 and I wonder what the longevity of that stack would be? Maybe metal would be more trustworthy. I fear if the shim should collapse a bit in due time, you may begin to feel binding in the pedals. Trouble shooting anything that might be going wrong, anywhere up in that space, is not fun. And to fix any binding in the pedals, it's going to require some work, boot cowl removal to start. So far I have escaped that but others have not. A lot of us have experienced problems installing this component and when its all tightened down binding develops. I can't help but think that the problem in part, is due to the wood substrate.

[Pushboy]

Hi Eddie… do you have a link or photos of how to do this with metal shims — and how to make them?


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[Dave S]

One option that has been used to correct minor alignment of the rudder pedal torque tubes is to make the end bearings slightly barrel shaped with the major dimension very close to the ID of the torque tube and a slight rounded taper to both sides. The material removed does not reduce the strength of the end bearing and it does not create any slop.

[Pushboy]

I continue to work on the rudder pedals --

Does anyone know what the exact material is for the pulley retention straps that are builder fabricated and install on the torque tube pulleys?

I don't like to admit it, but I have one that needs to be redone.

Dave.

[Dave S]

Dave,

According to my inventory listing. The straps are stainless steel - the supplied stock is pieces 0.5" X 10" by 0.025" thick.

Having said that, there are numerous formulations/alloys of stainless steel; buy I doubt that it would make any difference in this application.

[Geek]

Dave,

According to my inventory listing. The straps are stainless steel - the supplied stock is pieces 0.5" X 10" by 0.025" thick.

Having said that, there are numerous formulations/alloys of stainless steel; buy I doubt that it would make any difference in this application.

What Dave said. But hey - welcome to the "My Straps Look Like Hell" club!!! I too am a member. I had to build a jig where I cut slots in plywood and then glued them together so that the distance between the slots was the right width to clear the roller. Allowed me to bend and drill mine while they were clamped into the jig. Bent them, drilled them and then cut the ends off to make them the right length. But trust me I had four REALLY ugly straps before I did this.

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[Pushboy]

Hey Gary - I had seen your jig for drilling prior and I had copied it mostly... however, my dado/slot for the SS strap was just a tiny bit too wide and the hole ended up off of center on the strap. I re-adjusted the jig and it's better now, but I have one ugly ducking strap. I'm a decent woodworker, but I'm still getting used to the tolerances required for metalwork.

I'll see if I can source some SS material, I just wasn't sure if a specific type was nesc for this application.

Thanks for your help.

Dave.

[Pushboy]

Dave,

According to my inventory listing. The straps are stainless steel - the supplied stock is pieces 0.5" X 10" by 0.025" thick.

Having said that, there are numerous formulations/alloys of stainless steel; buy I doubt that it would make any difference in this application.

Thanks Dave -- appreciate the specs. I'll see what I can source around here.

Dave.