Center Console Top Installation

[Idahoflyer]

When fitting the center top console in my Super Sport build, I found that the flap lever installation leans right so far that it rubs against right side of the flap detent bracket over it's full range of travel. Will this be a problem? Can the lever be straightened/bent to center it inside the detent bracket?

[dginok]

I have this same issue. Did you come up with a good solution?

[HighWing]

I can't imagine bending it a bit would be a problem. My rocket scientist neighbor reminds me often that 4130 can handle 60% elongation. I think I would try to bend it above the pivot bushing to avoid using the weld as the hard point for the bend, though.

I am helping with a V which I think is similar, and also in the process of finishing my IV. I bent the flap handle on mine, curving the top a bit aft so I can reach it without having to lean so far forward - not a problem.

Lowell

[dginok]

Thanks Lowell. The idea of cutting into that nice console slot did not appeal to me!

[jtpitkin06]

Straighten the handle if you are able to do so. However, there are a few things you can try.

If the flap handle has a slight bend, try reversing the direction. Rotate the handle so the left side is on the right. If that fails, try grinding a small amount off the pivot on the loose side and install the handle using a 960-10L washer on the tight side.

The clearance is pretty close on the flap and rudder adjust handles. It take a bit of shimming to get them perfect.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[Av8r3400]

My flap handle is "U" shaped. This is a model IV. I don't know if this helps, but maybe offers some ideas...

[MotReklaw]

I had/have the same problem. From what I understand, the metal draws when welding and this is causing the problem. I made pictures and sent them to Kitfox. I ended up "making it work."

Perhaps when John Mc reads this thread he will see that it is a common problem and can introduce a slight left angle before it is welded. It is a good system though and I really like it.

I didn't know the handle could be reversed.
See my pic below

[jtpitkin06]

There are so many variables when installing the flap handle or rudder adjustment handles that a tiny warp from welding is a minor thing to deal with.

If you suspect the handle is bent or welded slightly off it is easily checked. Place a 3/16 rod or bolt in a vise. Slide the handle on the bolt and measure from the tubing to a fixed spot on the work bench. Slide the handle off the bolt, turn it over and measure again. Allow for any offset of the pivot tube. Make an adjustment bend half the distance of the error.



However, your handle could be perfect and you can still have problems. Some builder induced problems are:


The pivot tabs on the airframe could be drilled or reamed crooked. The console cover could be installed offset.
The detent brackets could be installed too close together on the console top.

If you reamed the pivot holes a bit crooked, the handle may clear at one end, but rub at the other. You will need to adjust the console slot, or replace the pivot tabs. Adjusting the slot is much easier.


If the detent brackets are riveted too close together they can pinch the handle. Drill out the rivets and reposition the brackets. as needed. Drill new holes and rivet in place. Cosmetically, you can fill the old holes with Hysol which will make them nearly invisible.


I checked the handle clearance with the console top with a dry fit before I riveted the brackets in place. I noted the clearances were just too tight. I opened the slots in the console a tiny amount and mounted the detent brackets a bit further apart to have a more clearance. Now my handles do not rub the sides at all.


The instructions were OK; but, as always, there is room for improvement. A note to check the handle clearance and alignment before installing the detent brackets would help.


This assembly is done fairly early in the build. If you are just starting a kit, I can't over emphasize doing dry fitting before riveting or bonding anything. It will certainly make you build much easier.



John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[Dave S]

Steve,

My series 7 had a similar deal - a little tweeking on the flap handle tube between the welds and holes easily took care of it. 4130 alloy, as has been indicated - can take some bending and keep its strength - just stay away from welds and holes - it is like bending electrical conduit. I don't think I had to bend much more than a few 10/1000 0f an inch to make everything operate smoothly.

Just one of those little things that distinguishes us a builders from the rest of the world......part of the deal.

Sincerely,

Dave S

[dginok]

My flap handle appears to be very straight, though I have not done any detailed measurement of it. I've just begun dry-fitting the console, so no holes have been drilled yet. I was just surprised by the difference between the slot and the handle.

I'll pursue the tweaking option, and possibly opening up the slot if necessary.

I'm just beginning this adventure. Thanks for everyone's comments.

[szicree]

I ran into a bit of this myself, but just opened up the slot a very little bit. When I clecoed the detent bracket in place I found a slight rub on one side with the handle forward and a little rub on the other side with the handle aft. I took the detent bracket apart and ground the inside surfaces down in the areas that were rubbing. It only required a few seconds work with my pneumatic disc sander (super handy tool for this type of thing) and all was good. I notice that there is a very tiny bit of side to side play in the flap handle and consequently the potential for rubbing if I push to one side or the other. I think I'll probably put some thin UMHW tape on either the inside of the bracket or wrap the handle with it so that nothing gets beat up over time.

[dginok]

Dave, what did you use to bend the flap tube?