Oratex Drain Vent Holes

[SilverFox5]

I am curious as to how others have created and completed drain vent holes in Oratex.
I know BAF (Lars) recommends using seaplane grommet’s on every hole but I have seen VERY few Oratex covered planes with these grommets. Until now I just did not look at how they were finished off.
Does anyone have pictures of your holes and how they were finished.
I have wings and all tail parts completed except for a few tapes left to put on.
Fuselage is also almost complete.
.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Joe Leeman
Wisconsin
Kitfox 5
912uls
.

[jiott]

I would suggest regular grommets (flat) rather than seaplane grommets which have a little scoop on them.

[jrevens]

Drain holes, or holes for grommets are easily made with a soldering iron, just like with Poly-Fiber. I have a few different soldering irons, but I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight for a couple bucks that has a real pointy tip about 3/16” dia. I don’t know if anyone else does this, but I used a thin Exacto blade to carefully trim off the little melted ridge that forms around the hole, inside & out. If you use grommets, they can be securely attached to Oratex with a spot of super glue.

[Kitfox Pilot]

I used what John said just a soldering iron. It makes self-sealing holes.

[efwd]

Just as John and Harlan. I didn't have a problem with a melted bead around the hole.

[SilverFox5]

Thanks for the tips guys!
Question to all, did any of you use any type of grommet?
Or did you just melt the hole thru the patch and fabric and call it good?
l know Lars recommends a seaplane patch on every drain hole but I don’t remember ever seeing these on any of the Oratex covered planes I’ve looked at.
If I did decide to use flat grommets do they come in clear or will they need to be sandwiched in between the fabric and the patch? The ones I see on Aircraft Spruce do not say if they are clear.
Thanks again!
Joe Leeman

[bumsteer]

Joe

The grommets I got from Wag-Aero are clear.

Rick

[PapuaPilot]

I used seaplane grommets on my plane using the Poly Fiber system.

[jiott]

The flat grommets I got from Kitfox are clear. They also have the seaplane grommets.

[Denalifox]

My plane lives outside year round. I used seaplane grommets to help pull the moisture out in each flight. If you plan on leaving your plane out over night and there is a hint of it getting rained on, consider holes in your rear fuselage, rudder, and elevator. Ask me how I know lol. Water will find a way. Even a humid day and interior condensation can pool up.

[Greg79]

Where and how many drain holes should be put in? I have covered everything but my wings and had not thought about drain holes just inspection holes. Thanks!

[PapuaPilot]

Basically you want one at any low point where water could gather. For wings you want a drain hole in every rib bay at the inboard aft corner. I put two on each elevator, rudder and horizontal stabilizers. I can't remember how many are on the fuselage bottom, but you want one as far back as possible near the tailwheel mount area.

Like DenaliFox said, seaplane grommets create suction and will draw out the moisture and humidity. That's why I like them and recommend their use over the flat washers.

[alexM]

Where and how many drain holes should be put in? I have covered everything but my wings and had not thought about drain holes just inspection holes. Thanks!

Thanks for asking that, and thanks to Phil for the answer.

I'm finally covering my wings now so I could use all the idiot proof instructions I can get.

[Denalifox]

i did every rib bay in the wings and lowest points in the drooping elevator and rudder. Beauty of Oratex is you just poke a hole and glue whatever grommet of your choosing to the spot and you are done. I would not just poke holes (cauterized or not) without some form of reinforcement (that being a grommet). The amount of drain holes sort of depends on your area. Up here having water in your airplane is near impossible to avoid. So water mitigation is more the name of the game here. After figuring out all my little hidden spots water liked to creep I have yet to have any issues. Another thing to note, Water doesnt effect Oratex glue nor does subzero temps. Not a single issue through out the winter.

[alexM]

Where and how many drain holes should be put in? I have covered everything but my wings and had not thought about drain holes just inspection holes. Thanks!

On the subject of inspection holes, where did you put those? So far the only one I can see needing is by the pitot tube.

[Denalifox]

On the subject of inspection holes, where did you put those? So far the only one I can see needing is by the pitot tube.

Alex I didnt put any inspection holes. If I ever need to get into a certain place, I plan to glue a ring and then add a cover. Gotta love Oratex!

[PapuaPilot]

I have two on each wing, one of the outboard ones is for accessing the pitot tube. The inboard ones are between the lift strut attach point and fuel tanks (bay 4?). At times I wish I had more for the sake of internal inspection or the possibility of getting debris or a dead critter, but I can see a lot by pulling the wingtips and two covers.

For Oratex planes this isn't an big issue because you can always add a ring and fabric patch later if you want to cut more holes. With any of the other covering processes you need plan ahead and put the rings and fabric patch on before the finishing coats. During covering you can put as many rings as you want and never cut them open; it only costs the weight of the plastic rings. FYI I didn't even cut out my wing inspection holes for a couple years. I painted the inspection covers (plus a couple spares) and had them waiting for that day.

[jiott]

I recommend putting two in the very back of the tailcone, one on each side of the trim jackscrew mounting. Also one right underneath the rear elevator pushrod swing arm; then you don't have to remove the baggage sack and crawl back there to inspect/lube the rod ends at annual time.

[alexM]

All responses greatly appreciated. Good tip about considering them by the stab trim jack screw. I'm tentatively planning to put my ELT just aft of the jack screw. I've gone through the ergonomic exercise of seeing if I can get it in/out through the openings around the stabilizer. I can, but not by a wide margin. Certainly easier than crawling in the tail cone though.

I'm building a series 5 so I don't have that other pivot point on the elevator push-pull tube.

[airlina]

All responses greatly appreciated. Good tip about considering them by the stab trim jack screw. I'm tentatively planning to put my ELT just aft of the jack screw. I've gone through the ergonomic exercise of seeing if I can get it in/out through the openings around the stabilizer. I can, but not by a wide margin. Certainly easier than crawling in the tail cone though.

I'm building a series 5 so I don't have that other pivot point on the elevator push-pull tube.

Alex, on my Series 5 (IO-240) my ELT is aft of the empennage mounted battery (CG) probably where you are looking to place yours. I am able to remove the ELT for battery install thru the stock empennage panels. As you say its a tight squeeze but doable. Another areas to consider for inspection ports is the aft greaseable plastic bushing for the elevator torque tube . I have 2 ports on the bottom of the fuse here to get one hand in each for this task. Going flying this morning so I'll take a few pics and post later. Bruce N199CL

[PapuaPilot]

I have an IO-240 and did the same as Bruce, here is a picture. I made the mount and used stainless steel adel clamps. It is a tight fit, but I can get it out.


30090

30091

[airlina]

took a bunch of pictures that show where i put inspection and access panels on my Series 5. You will note that you can get creative with access to critical areas without using a full round inspection panel. In the last 19 years i have made many mods to my plane long after covering was final and found i needed access to areas that weren't required when I first finished my Outback (in reality you're never finished but that's the fun of growing your own). These areas included rudder trim, the ability to remove the bolt and nut at the elevator trim motor base (mine lasted 16 years before replacement) the 2 small black caps on each side of the empennage allow this , added a battery tender power port on aft right side (bat in tail for CG) tailwheel leaf spring bolt access (had to change a few of those over the years). For annual maintenance, I always boroscope in the standard access panels under the wings for jury and lift strut attach points and have to grease the elevator torque tube bushing through those two side by side panels on the fuse bottom. sorry for the long winded post but I thought this might stimulate some thoughts on access to areas you think you don't need but will need if you keep your plane long enough. My cover system is polyfiber and adding a "after the fact" panel is not a big deal later if none was placed there during initial cover . Bruce N199CL