Reasonably Priced USB-C Outlet

[desertdave]

I bought a new iPad and it requires a USB-C outlet for inflight recharging. Garmin makes a nice unit but it is expensive. Since I will soon be redoing my panel I started hunting for a less expensive alternative.

Here is what I found:

Molex 79540-5067 USB/USB-C Combo $40.95
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/79540-5067?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0NwlthflBi8uG1WDDoiQrqZOJWahGj2 0%3D

Rear Power Plug 34791-0040 $.78
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/34791-0040?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhFqlPeb1z85oxPGtPpzYnqep5RLvbr Npk%3D

Pins 560023-0421LP $.10 each (Need 2)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/560023-0421-Loose-Piece?qs=%2FH84ApbqrvO5bomaNrDXXg%3D%3D

I am 3D printing a bracket that will mount this on the side tray behind my panel and can send a .stl file if needed.

2928229283

[Redline]

Thanks! Been looking for the same thing and hadn't found an option I was happy with.

[FoxbuilderWill]

I've read a number of things about the cheap usb chargers causing noise in the radios. Will you please let us know how this works out for you?

[MikeMarkota]

I know this is about USB-C but in response to the poster asking about a cheap noise USB charger that isnt noisy - this worked for me

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJ4JSM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Danzer1]

One caution with those: They are not switched, so the led will eventually drain your battery if not externally switched. I used these that have an internal switch for the LED:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Charge-Charger-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B0891WJDW5?th=1

They have singles too, and you can always get a usb to usb-c adapter for a few bucks.

[desertdave]

One caution with those: They are not switched, so the led will eventually drain your battery if not externally switched. I used these that have an internal switch for the LED:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Charge-Charger-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B0891WJDW5?th=1

They have singles too, and you can always get a usb to usb-c adapter for a few bucks.

The USB to USB-C adaptors won't power an iPad. Also, if it is hooked up to a switched power source (which you want on an airplane) it isn't going to drain anything. Everything electrical on my airplane is unpowered unless the master switch is on.

[Danzer1]

The USB to USB-C adaptors won't power an iPad. Also, if it is hooked up to a switched power source (which you want on an airplane) it isn't going to drain anything. Everything electrical on my airplane is unpowered unless the master switch is on.

Suit yourself, just trying to provide some alternatives. You're not the only one that reads your thread. There are plenty of adapters/cords that will provide the required amps/watts to charge IPads. If the adapter/cord was designed on the older USB 2.0 std. they definitely won't cut it. The port I recommend will support up to an Ipad Pro which needs up to 18 watts which requires the highest charge rate of any Ipad I know of.

Have fun!

[desertdave]

Suit yourself, just trying to provide some alternatives. You're not the only one that reads your thread. There are plenty of adapters/cords that will provide the required amps/watts to charge IPads. If the adapter/cord was designed on the older USB 2.0 std. they definitely won't cut it. The port I recommend will support up to an Ipad Pro which needs up to 18 watts which requires the highest charge rate of any Ipad I know of.

Have fun!

Thanks! Happy Thanksgiving!!

[mike92104]

That looks like a great alternative. My experience with Molex has been good in the past.

Thanks for sharing.

https://www.mouser.com/images/molex/images/79540-5067_DSL.jpg

[VictorV]

Looking at the datasheet for the charger it says it needs a 16v input. My guess is that 12v will work
OK but you can give it a try.

Victor

[Eric Page]

Looking at the datasheet for the charger it says it needs a 16v input.
The document linked from Mouser is a product specification sheet. The actual datasheet (https://www.content.molex.com/dxdam/literature/987651-6673.pdf) shows an input range of 9-16V. See the middle column on page 3.

[VictorV]

Thanks for the correction Eric!

[Flybyjim]

Try SteinAir for the ports

[desertdave]

A quick update for those who are purchasing newer iPads that need a USB-C. This Molex USB-C outlet has the capacity to run my iPad and charge its battery at the same time. Definitely a worthwhile purchase.

[umberto.orlandi]

Thanks for the update. Any news about possible noise in the radio headset?

[desertdave]

No noise so far. It has been a good purchase.

[Av8r_Sed]

I hope nobody is actively looking for one of these nice Molex USB outlets. Mouser and Digi-Key are showing 99+ weeks lead times for these.

[FoxbuilderWill]

Digi-key shows same but also lists 698 in stock.

[PapuaPilot]

Digi-Key is showing 698 in stock currently. Mouser is out of stock.

[Doggitz]

Let me start by saying that I am not an electrical engineer. I looked at a buck converter to move 12 V down to five for my iPad. I took it over to a friend of mine who has an electronics lab with an elaborate Hewlett-Packard Noise and spectrum monitor. It was amazing how much noise the inexpensive buck converters produce in the radio spectrum that we use namely between 118 and 136 MHz. I looked at the specifications for the Molex adapter that you mentioned, and did not see anything about the electrical noise that it produces. A simple test would be to connect the Molex product to a battery and put a handheld radio next to it, and tune, through the aviation COM spectrum With the squelch turned down so that the receiver is continually admitting noise. You may be amazed at what you find when you bring it close to the USB plug. Just a word of caution before you spend a lot of time, installing it only to discover that you have an unwanted and unexpected noise in your radios.

[desertdave]

I just spotted this much more economical alternative for a USB-C. I have no idea about noise or reliability.
https://powerwerx.com/panel-usb-qc30-typec-qc40

[umberto.orlandi]

Let me start by saying that I am not an electrical engineer…

I roughly did this test with a USB charger that I am thinking to mount on my wanna-redo-the-panel of my KFIV1050. I used a handheld radio only on 130.000 which is the frequency I use 99% of the time. The noise appears when I take the radio/antenna closer than 20cm (8" circa), and suddenly disappears when I move it away, in any direction. It seems that the charger emits lot of noise but with limited power so that it can't reach too far away.
The question now is whether installing it fairly far away from the radio set and antenna cable would save from interference. Let say finding a spot on the firewall right end giving around 15" of distance from the antenna/radio set, (not on the panel, not easy to reach, but...) would be enough?
In alternative, is there a way to screen the usb as it doesn't send frequencies out?
Or any other trick someone has adopted to make this USB converters work properly (including buying one of a specific brand and doesn't cost a fortune).
As the working alternative is still a good power bank.

P.S. The USB Plug emits noise only when a device is actually connected and charging; if it is just powered but empty, it doesn't radiate. If you tried yours with no device, it doesn't count ;)

[SilverFox5]

Hi Dave
I purchased 2 of these chargers with the plugs and pins. I’m not much of an electrician but do understand 12 volt system’s. Can you tell me what size wire you used to install yours? What size fuse are you using? Should I wire the 2 lm installing with one fuse or keep them separate? Also what pin positions did you use? I see the data sheet dwg lists pin position #1 and 4. Does it matter which one is positive or negative? Thanks for any suggestions from anyone.

Joe
Building Kitfox5 Taildragger
912uls

[Eric Page]

See this drawing (https://www.molex.com/content/dam/molex/molex-dot-com/products/automated/en-us/salesdrawingpdf/795/79540/795405067_sd.pdf?inline). It shows that pin 1 is positive and pin 4 is ground (see the small chart just above the title block, near the lower-right corner). It also shows that maximum current is 3.8A.

22AWG wire is adequate from a safety perspective and the crimped contacts that fit in the Molex Mini50 connector are designed for 22AWG. If the total wire length is 6 feet, you'll see a ~0.37V drop using 22AWG; not a problem while the charging system is holding the bus at ~14V.

I would fuse them separately at 5A each.

[SilverFox5]

Thanks for the info Eric!
I missed the pin chart on the dwg showing pin1 being positive.
Curious if you installed one of these chargers and what thickness your panel was.
Did it snap in and fit ok?
Thanks again for all the other info.

Joe

[Eric Page]

Curious if you installed one of these chargers and what thickness your panel was.
Did it snap in and fit ok?
No, I haven't used the Molex charger. Instead, my airplane will have the most expensive USB charger known to man! It's a bit of a story; feel free to skip to the text below the line...

Back when EFBs were first getting popular in aviation, there were only a couple of eye-wateringly expensive TSO chargers, and one very amateurish offering for the experimental market (it used a linear regulator, essentially a 20-watt heater behind the panel).

I naively thought I could do better, so I spent about a year and a pile of cash developing a charger for airplanes that would identify and rapid-charge two tablets from any of the popular brands, automatically shut off if the alternator quit, not make any noise in radios or headsets, and that I could sell for a reasonable price. I worked with chip-makers' application engineers, made multiple prototypes, created an LLC, designed a website and reserved a URL for it, wrote a datasheet and installation instructions -- the whole works.

The product development was a successful effort but it was overtaken by the market. There are now at least a dozen other options with slick packaging and big marketing budgets. There's no way I could compete, so I cut my losses and folded up my tent.

I don't regret doing it -- I leaned a ton and had a good excuse to buy electronic test equipment -- but I got a little over my skis WRT setting up the business side of things before I had anything to sell. That wasted a LOT of time.

Anyway, to make a long story short, I'm going to use my final prototype charger in my airplane.


To address your question about panel thickness, the Molex drawing (https://www.molex.com/content/dam/molex/molex-dot-com/products/automated/en-us/salesdrawingpdf/795/79540/795405067_sd.pdf?inline) indicates that it'll accommodate panels that are 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 or 4.0mm thick. It looks like there are discrete steps on the little side clips that hold the unit in place.