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Fallen
11-22-2020, 11:49 AM
Hey guys! Brandon and Heather dropped off my kit yesterday after Budget cancelled my truck reservation. Thanks again to those guys for making it work for me on their way down to St George! I've already started inventorying and am super excited to dig into building.

N840SF has been born and I'd love to bring anyone who wants along for the journey! In addition to posting here, I'm going to try something a little different, and live stream some at https://www.twitch.tv/salt_fox as well as uploading some normal youtube videos at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpFDKxV4Mj0ynmN6h1ZaJ8w

bbs428
11-22-2020, 04:02 PM
That is exciting! Glad to have you hear and look forward to your kitfox journey.
Glad the folks at kitfox could deliver after Budget threw you a curve ball in the dirt.

All the best!

Shadowrider
11-22-2020, 04:27 PM
Nice! Another Utah kitfox!! I think we need to put together a Utah fly in!

DesertFox4
11-22-2020, 06:43 PM
A big congrats on that special delivery. Enjoy your build.

Meyer
11-22-2020, 08:32 PM
Congrats and good luck!!!

Denalifox
11-23-2020, 08:58 AM
I spy extended wing tips, how much did those run you?

Fallen
11-23-2020, 03:00 PM
Nice! Another Utah kitfox!! I think we need to put together a Utah fly in!

I hear that! When I was at the rally in 2019 there was another person there from Park City that if I remember correctly put in an order as well!


I spy extended wing tips, how much did those run you?

I don't really know! hahah

Denalifox
11-23-2020, 03:07 PM
Well they just finished Beta testing so that must be a new standard tip for the STi. They weren't an option you selected?

Utah-Jay
11-23-2020, 03:53 PM
I hear that! When I was at the rally in 2019 there was another person there from Park City that if I remember correctly put in an order as well!


I bet that is Jay Henry, he owns the hanger that the Rans I fly is kept. Jay is coming along nicely and has his 915 mounted and working on the cowling and wings now

tdldedcd
11-26-2020, 06:57 AM
Welcome to the family. This site is an amazing resource. I'm a little ahead of you but moving slow. Hopefully we can lean on each other throughout our builds. So far, it's been a lot of fun.

Fallen
11-26-2020, 10:09 PM
Got the all the necessary holes reamed on the horizontal and elevator.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20yrOqX4abw

26239
I'm looking to do the ribs for the speedster tail and the directions say that stiffeners only need to be used on ribs that you feel need them. Is it pretty easy to tell which ribs need them? Is there anything specific I should look for when deciding which ribs get them?

Shadowrider
11-26-2020, 10:41 PM
IMO do them on all the ribs.

Fallen
11-26-2020, 11:02 PM
I was leaning that way, just wanted to confirm! Thanks!

Shadowrider
11-27-2020, 07:51 AM
Yeah does not add much weight and greatly stiffens them so when you cover, the ribs stay straight.

jiott
11-28-2020, 04:37 PM
All the ribs, except the ones that lay next to a steel structural piece.

Fallen
12-01-2020, 08:25 PM
Quick update, I got all the ribs for the elevator and horizontal stiffened and glued in place. Got a bit frustrated and learned a ton doing hysol.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyHJ7XVkpDk&t

26321

Now, I'm looking to Varnish, I'm guessing the instructions for the varnish come with the poly fiber covering kit, which I opted out of. I'm looking to find out directions on how to mix and then use the Poly Fiber epoxy varnish. I didn't see any detailed posts about it on here, and I'm not seeing any explicit directions in my manual. Thanks for the help guys.

Fallen
12-01-2020, 11:19 PM
Now, I'm looking to Varnish, I'm guessing the instructions for the varnish come with the poly fiber covering kit, which I opted out of. I'm looking to find out directions on how to mix and then use the Poly Fiber epoxy varnish. I didn't see any detailed posts about it on here, and I'm not seeing any explicit directions in my manual. Thanks for the help guys.

I was able to get ahold of the PF Manual from Stits' website. Looks like the directions show

Combine one part EV-410 Catalyst to two parts EV-400 Epoxy Varnish. Let this soup “cook” for 30 minutes. Filter through a 60 X 48 paint filter. Thin two parts catalyzed varnish to one part E-500 Epoxy Reducer.

I'm using balsa to do the airfoiled tips. I'm seeing most people using superfill to finish those instead of hysol+micro. Is this still the suggested solution?

efwd
12-02-2020, 06:30 AM
I built my flapperon tips with Balsa. I couldn't be happier with how they came out but.....
Given the amount of time I spent constructing them, and how susceptible they are to hangar rash, I would not do it a second time. In the end I would buy the inexpensive tips that Kitfox sells.
Whatever is used to cover the wood, make sure the balsa is not able to soak up any of your finish paint. I have spots where wood grain is still visible under the paint and then make sure you don't hit it on anything.

Jerrytex
12-02-2020, 09:33 AM
I also used balsa and superfil for the HS/ELEV/VS tips. After shaping and sanding, I used the same epoxy varnish that I used on the ribs. Worked well.

109JB
12-02-2020, 10:44 AM
On my Kitfox 4 project the fin and rudder top tips got buggered in the nose over. I haven't done the rudder yet but for the fin, I made a new plywood rib, and then squirted on Great Stuff expanding foam. After cure, I shaped it and applied 2 layers of bi-direction fiberglass cloth. Came out very well and is durable.

Frontier Fox
12-02-2020, 06:03 PM
I used balsa on the flapperons tips and the vertical and rudder. After sanding to a pleasing shape I coated them with hysol and sanded them smooth. The hysol leaves a hard shell and the paint does not soak through.

Fallen
12-05-2020, 09:14 PM
Making good progress. I've got up to the Trim Actuator done for the horizontal and all the bushings/bearings for the elevator set and ready. I didn't want to install it all only to take it all off due to how I'm going to have to fit the wings on. So, I set the elevator and horizontal stab aside and moved over to the fuselage for now, and got some done.

26357

I managed to get the pesky right control pivot arm in with some jimmying, begging, and only a slight amount of cursing!

26359

I took a page from flight chops book and built a small bench on casters with various power tools so I can move it around as needed.

26358

For the first question, I was wondering if I needed to actually grind down the prefab mounting bracket on the top side. There's no specific mention to do this in the worded directions but it is pictured and I've seen others do it.

26355
26356

My second question is how soon should I order the autopilot servos, now that I'm working on the fuselage. If I put in the pivot arms and linkages for the servos (I have the kits from kitfox) is that enough to get my by?

efwd
12-06-2020, 08:45 AM
Speaking on the Servo topic, I reflect back on my build. I had to remove and replace my autopilot servos due to inoperative servos. Carl just had to do the same. That process isn't too troublesome but it was a lot easier to do without fabric on the airframe. Then I had to remove one of the servo links to replace it with a new one that I had to build slightly longer. That was a different story. I was very uncomfortable leaning into the pilots space and twisting at the waist while trying to get the new link measured and installed. As long as you don't mind the trouble that the fabric adds during your installation then you will be fine installing later. If you have determined the exact location that you want to install the servo (maybe based on someone elses build) then I would say go ahead and install the mounts.

Delta Whisky
12-06-2020, 09:13 AM
re: your question on the prefab mounting bracket - this won't really help much because mine is cut per the drawing but I don't remember doing it. Go figure.

Others with the prefab kit might want to weigh in and report what they have, your piece might have missed a fabrication step along the way.

BTW - check your brake mounting brackets carefully against the drawings - a couple of mine were fabricated incorrectly and I discovered the issue by the mounting problems they caused. Easily fixed but . . . . . .

Meyer
12-06-2020, 04:35 PM
I would vote for put the servos in now.

Anything can be done in a sense. The time and PITA are factors though. The thought of doing that post covering is not appealing to me at least. I am 6'4" and 205 lbs. though.

Fallen
12-06-2020, 04:50 PM
Yea, I would definitely put them in before covering, just wondering if it's a pain to put them in after putting all the aileron and elevator control tubes in. Right now, I'm thinking about putting in the control linkages, then putting the wings on, and working with those for a bit. Then revisiting the fuselage later on.

Meyer
12-06-2020, 06:45 PM
That is not difficult to do what you mentioned. You can search my website for a pic or two. You would really just be removing a bolt at that point and inserting a different one.

efwd
12-06-2020, 09:19 PM
I would say that the controls all need to be installed and rigged. The reason I had to build the AP servo control rods a second time was the fact that I had installed everything before I had rigged the flapperons. Once I rigged everything, it changed the geometry on the control rods and servo pivot arm. You could install the servos, just don't build the custom control rods until rigged.

bbs428
12-07-2020, 07:33 AM
Agreed that fabricating it all up now and install the servos while access is good. It could be done after covering, depending on your contortion/bending ability but why beat yourself up and use colorful language? :D

Flybyjim
12-07-2020, 06:40 PM
I see a couple of you had to return some servos on the Garmin G3X. I bought my G3X 2 years ago with the AP, was there a recall I do not know about?

efwd
12-07-2020, 08:46 PM
Our servos were purchased nearly 5 years ago. Your Serial Numbers are well after those that had problems.

Flybyjim
12-08-2020, 04:40 AM
Thanks Eddie, good to know

Fallen
12-13-2020, 10:00 AM
Hey Guys,

Getting quite a bit done on the flight controls. Cracked a couple bushings on the mounting bracket couldn't believe it, but at least they came out clean when it happened. Waiting on replacements now so I can mount the assembly in the plane.

26440

Had a couple questions with the aileron bell crank assembly. I am fitting the aileron bell crank to the Idler bell crank and step 56 on page 24 in Section B of the Flight Controls. The directions specify a minimum amount of side to side play, and I was curious if that meant zero or one washer from zero play. I attached a picture of the current gap, and a washer will fit there with no extra binding, but also zero lateral play. I know that bell cranks typically have some play, so I just wanted to confirm.


26438

Second, the idler crank is extremely tight, it moves freely, but takes a good amount of pressure to move it around. It seems like the tabs are a bit too close together, should those be bent slightly apart to make it loose, or is it fine as it is?

26439

Shadowrider
12-13-2020, 10:29 AM
For controls you want as loose as you can get without slop. Yes you want that to move freely, as in it falls to one side on its own. All the friction adds up and you will have stiff controls, so make sure all the components move easily. Are the tabs bent in slightly? Make sure they are straight and then make sure power coating is not built up.

Fallen
12-20-2020, 03:09 PM
Hey Guys,

Making some good progress. Got nearly all the base controls in and started on the floor boards. I ruined the first phenolic block by over enlarging the hole, so I had to order a new one from kitfox.

26539
26540
26541


Now, I'm overly worried about over sanding this new one, and even with about 1/32" of an inch removed. If I torque down the front bolt, and leave the back one loose, there's no tightness on the elevator axis. With both torqued it's extremely tight, and doesn't seem to change as I remove material. At this point, I'm wondering if I switch to castellated nuts and split pin the bolts, and if I'm getting different bolts I could get ones with heads drilled and safety wire the bolts together as well. This would allow the block to remain tight and prevent play.

26542

Wondering if anyone else has had a large amount of issues getting zero tightness on the elevator axis.

jiott
12-20-2020, 06:12 PM
Yes I also had to do a lot of work to get that plastic block to fit right when torqued down. Seemed like a lot of sanding took place without much change in tightness. Then fairly quickly it started to get better. One thing to check: the block mounting may not be perfectly square to the control shaft. Put some marking material on the shaft and bolt down the block and rotate the shaft. Then remove the block and see where the shaft was rubbing. You may have to sand off material in a slightly non-symmetrical way to get a good fit without too much looseness.

JayHenry
01-03-2021, 10:40 AM
I had the same issues and went nuts installing ,removing, and re-installing over and over. turns out the mounting tabs were not on the same plane and a trip to Aircraft Home Depot for some SS washers in varying thickness to shim the blocks did the trick. No tension at all now.

Fallen
10-05-2021, 12:07 PM
I'm getting really close to putting in the pitot tube. I was wondering if there was a different solution available than the one kitfox suggests. I'd like to do 2 color line for the Garmin pitot+aoa. I ordered parts of the stein air kit, but I'm not a huge fan of the tubing and I won't use the push type connectors, from what I've heard people have more problems than the kitfox solution. So, I was wondering if this was an acceptable solution, or if I should just do it the way the manual suggests with different tubing.

28967

Further, I was curious what kind of tubing these guys are using, as the nylon tubing from stein is rather rigid.

28966

From Geeks build above and below is from Kitplane Enthusiast's build.

28968

Geek
10-05-2021, 04:40 PM
Here's a link to the tubing kit I used.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/averytookforskyview.php

Geek

Delta Whisky
10-05-2021, 05:07 PM
Fallen - I'm with you and don't use any standard connectors in a pneumatic line. From the first problem I encountered 40 years ago I've used silicon tubing from a medical/laboratory supply house to make all tubing connections. (If is isn't expensive it isn't the right stuff.) It is very elastic, has a broad temp range, and doesn't age. (I have some over 30 years old that is indistinguishable from new.) Since it kinks easily (and, did I mention, expensive), I don't use it except for direct connections. Almost any high quality tubing will work for the long runs; I used what came in the kit. If a tight bend or turn is required I use high quality plastic right angle connectors available at lots of good hardware stores or ACS.