PDA

View Full Version : STI Farm Fox Build Log



Pages : [1] 2 3

Kitfox Pilot
04-11-2020, 10:41 AM
Hello all, welcome to Farm Fox build log. My wife came up with the name since we see most name their planes.
I have enjoyed following the build logs on Teamkitfox.
This is our first build and we will have many questions and we hope to be corrected when you see mistakes we make.
Thanks for any and all help along the way.
We have not picked out engine, prop, or electronics yet. We will cover with Oratex is about the only solid decision we have made.
So far the truck has left a lot of parts that are suppose to be a plane someday hopefully and inventory has begun. Harlan and Susan Payne

efwd
04-11-2020, 11:50 AM
Awesome! Did they leave you a Cobra as well? I am Considering building one of those. Have a great time! One piece at a time and before you know it those parts will be an airplane.

SomeDay7
04-11-2020, 12:34 PM
Harlan, Thanks for posting and keeping us up to date. That same truck dropped off my cobra build in 2015. I will be only a couple of months behind you so the info is great. Jim

Kitfox Pilot
04-11-2020, 03:00 PM
Awesome! Did they leave you a Cobra as well? I am Considering building one of those. Have a great time! One piece at a time and before you know it those parts will be an airplane.


A cobra would have been nice. He had a couple rans left to deliver after he left me.

Kitfox Pilot
04-11-2020, 03:05 PM
Harlan, Thanks for posting and keeping us up to date. That same truck dropped off my cobra build in 2015. I will be only a couple of months behind you so the info is great. Jim

You will probably pass me on your build, we are coming into our busy season but will try to do a little when we can but winter will be here before you know it. :D
A couple of cobra pics would be ok too..

I got the rotisseries completed today and got the wings mobile.

SomeDay7
04-11-2020, 04:26 PM
Here is a couple. My car is parked in my future kitfox build garage and I have to make some plans to change up the build order. Can’t put the wing on inside, so I will have to do it outside when the weather is warm. Envious of your space. Jim

rv9ralph
04-11-2020, 08:31 PM
Congratulations. Enjoy the build.

Ralph

3 tracks
04-12-2020, 07:08 AM
If you decide to go with a airmaster prop. I have a 75" with whirwind blades 30 hrs. on it. For 6,000. Good luck on your build look forward to following.

mattkalin
04-12-2020, 02:09 PM
Looks great! Excited to follow along with you build!

Meyer
04-13-2020, 12:22 PM
Good luck! I have had a ton of fun with mine. Looking forward to finishing also though.

Shadowrider
04-13-2020, 01:33 PM
Nice! Welcome to the kitfox family.

Kitfox Pilot
04-13-2020, 03:46 PM
Thanks for all the comments.
We, my wife, one son and me finished taking inventory today. Everything is there except for a few back orders and items that are drop shipped.
Ready to build I assume.
I haven't read the eaa pamphlet that came with it but I have a question about logging the build. Is signing and dating the pages in the build manual when completed kosher or what am I suppose to do?

jiott
04-13-2020, 08:34 PM
I signed and dated each checkoff page in the build manual. I also kept a simple spiral notebook logging each day I worked on it and "roughly" how many hours. Also snapped digital photos of each major project stage and tried to show myself in some of them. The final inspection and application for a repairman's certificate went without a hitch.

Shadowrider
04-13-2020, 09:08 PM
I just took pictures with my phone along the way. I signed and dated as I completed task, but as you will find out many task don't apply. When applying for my repairman I referred to my phone more than I did the manual. When the inspector went through the manual I just wrote NA on a lot because with the STI, you have separate instructions for the wings, and lots of blank pages with the options you get. Inspector was fine with that because when he saw all the pictures on my phone that was proof enough for him. I didn't log any hours because honestly I didn't want to know. :)

Kitfox Pilot
04-14-2020, 05:27 AM
Thanks guys that's what I needed to know. I just had no idea what the inspector would expect to see. Thanks

Delta Whisky
04-14-2020, 06:01 AM
Harlan - another great source is: https://inspire.eaa.org/2020/01/02/what-should-be-in-your-builders-log-documenting-your-project/

Looks like you are off to a great start. Keep on keeping on.

efwd
04-14-2020, 11:00 AM
I did precisely what Jim did and had no problems with the FSDO. I will add though. I dropped my laptop off the coffee table, it landed upside down and destroyed the HD. 1/2 of all my build photos were lost. The only saving grace was I had downloaded many of my photos to Shutterfly and had made hard cover books of my build. So, I took the three books I had made through the build and plopped them down in front of the FSDO examiner who really liked how it was presented with little captions and all. BACK UP Pics somehow!

Kitfox Pilot
04-14-2020, 04:17 PM
I did precisely what Jim did and had no problems with the FSDO. I will add though. I dropped my laptop off the coffee table, it landed upside down and destroyed the HD. 1/2 of all my build photos were lost. The only saving grace was I had downloaded many of my photos to Shutterfly and had made hard cover books of my build. So, I took the three books I had made through the build and plopped them down in front of the FSDO examiner who really liked how it was presented with little captions and all. BACK UP Pics somehow!

I was just thinking about my last phone dyeing and losing all my pics that were on there when I read your post.

Kitfox Pilot
04-14-2020, 04:23 PM
Harlan - another great source is: https://inspire.eaa.org/2020/01/02/what-should-be-in-your-builders-log-documenting-your-project/

Looks like you are off to a great start. Keep on keeping on.

I have looked at your build log link and its really nice. Is that what you will show the inspector or do you us a written log?

jrevens
04-14-2020, 06:24 PM
Harlan,

I just used the build manual also, and like Dustin I didn't log my time either, for the same reason. I took a lot of pictures, and when time to apply for repairman's Certificate I handed the guy a thumb drive with pretty much all of them on it. He didn't need or want anything else but the FAA paperwork. He took it into his office for a little while, then came back, handed me the drive and said "good job". That was it.

PapuaPilot
04-14-2020, 06:50 PM
Like others, I dated and signed my build log and took a bunch of pictures. I made it available but my DAR didn't really look at it. I never thought much about it, but I didn't need the repairman's certificate.

Kitfox Pilot
04-14-2020, 06:50 PM
Harlan,

I just used the build manual also, and like Dustin I didn't log my time either, for the same reason. I took a lot of pictures, and when time to apply for repairman's Certificate I handed the guy a thumb drive with pretty much all of them on it. He didn't need or want anything else but the FAA paperwork. He took it into his office for a little while, then came back, handed me the drive and said "good job". That was it.

Thanks John, I'd like to keep it as simple as I can also like you guys did.
Got my first hour in tonight when I got home. Fixed the first two reamers to fit sockets and got the stabilizer and elevator reamed.
Just wondering how many reamers you guys went through so I can get some spares on the way?

Kitfox Pilot
04-14-2020, 06:56 PM
[QUOTE=PapuaPilot;91068]Like others, I dated and signed my build log and took a bunch of pictures. I made it available but my DAR didn't really look at it. I never thought much about it, but I didn't need the repairman's certificate.[/QU

Thanks Phil. Does anyone get the faa inspectors or whatever they are called out? It seams everyone uses DARs.

jrevens
04-14-2020, 07:11 PM
If you treat the reamers right, you will probably only need one... that's all I needed. Reamers should always be used well lubricated with oil. However, when 4130 chrome moly is welded and cooled fairly rapidly (I'm thinking of the tubes welded to the frames for the hinge bushings, with a MIG rig) it can get very hard, and that can be tough on a reamer. A cobalt reamer would be nice.

Shadowrider
04-14-2020, 07:11 PM
A DAR is not a FAA employee but a contractor. You can use a FAA inspector, they dont cost but my local fsdo told me its a 8-10 month wait. That is why most use a DAR.

Shadowrider
04-14-2020, 07:13 PM
Only needed one set of reamers and we built two airplanes! No lube either, so they held up nicely.

Kitfox Pilot
04-15-2020, 05:47 PM
Got reacquainted with mister Dremel tool for the last hour and a half.
Now I have to learn to mix and apply glue next time. Any advice is welcome.

Mark123
04-15-2020, 06:23 PM
I’m excited to see you begin your build. My STi kit is scheduled to arrive mid-September, maybe a bit later because of the virus. So for now, I’m organizing my workshop, and reading as much as I can about the build. I have been in contact with several builders, and they have all been very helpful and supportive. Dustin and Joe have given me some great tips and recommendations. Look forward to seeing your progress!



Mark

Delta Whisky
04-15-2020, 06:35 PM
I have looked at your build log link and its really nice. Is that what you will show the inspector or do you us a written log?

The program, besides producing the web site also produces a pdf or html output that can be handed to the FAA or DAR (paper or thumb drive) if s/he is interested in it. I'm also dating and signing the builder's manual and can use it with my pictures as well. (But I sign and date the manual as much as a check list of tasks accomplished and open items for my own use as for any FAA reason.)

Kitfox Pilot
04-15-2020, 07:00 PM
[QUOTE=Mark123;91089]I’m excited to see you begin your build. My STi kit is scheduled to arrive mid-September, maybe a bit later because of the virus. So for now, I’m organizing my workshop, and reading as much as I can about the build.


Mark you are way ahead of the game already organizing your workshop. I started on my
airplane factory in the corner of the barn a couple weeks before the kit was suppose to show up. Just a pickup load of board insulation and some 2x4s screwed together.


Kitfox Pilot
04-15-2020, 07:52 PM
I'm looking at superfil on Aircraft spruce website and they offer several different ones, which one do I need to order for wingtips and general fill work before covering?



superfil (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil)
poly-fiber superfil (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=poly-fiber%20superfil)
poly-fiber superfil epoxy (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=poly-fiber%20superfil%20epoxy)
superfil epoxy (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil%20epoxy)
superfil industrial (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil%20industrial)
superfil industrial gal (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil%20industrial%20gal)
superfil part (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil%20part)
superfil part gal (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=superfil%20part%20gal)

jrevens
04-15-2020, 09:38 PM
Harlan,

Your search links all bring up the same basic product. It's a 2 part kit. You should order the quart size kit.

Kitfox Pilot
04-16-2020, 05:21 AM
Thanks John.

Kitfox Pilot
04-19-2020, 04:32 PM
Flox question. Just finished gluing my steedster tail up and instructions said to add flox to stiffen the glue up. I never found any info to know how much to add so I added a little and all worked well. Is there a mixing ratio for flox when it is suppose to be added to the mix?

jrevens
04-19-2020, 05:17 PM
Hi Harlan,

I think it's just add & mix until you get the consistency that you want.

jiott
04-19-2020, 07:18 PM
Yep, I agree.

Kitfox Pilot
04-21-2020, 06:47 PM
Tonight I put in the elevator bearing and sanded down the bushings that fit inside. I dont have my belt sander yet but the drill and dremel worked pretty good. Polished them when I got them to size. Then spent 45 mins looking for the stabilizer mounting parts ,rods, bolts, nuts and washers.
Does anyone have a good method of how you found parts easier. These parts for mounting were in 3 different boxes.

I just watched kitfox latest video and John shows a packing list attached to each box with I assume part numbers of the content. Mine didn't have that but I think that would help find parts for sure.

airlina
04-22-2020, 02:37 AM
Harlan, when I got my Kit many years ago, as I did my inventory, I put items in categories(based on where the parts would go on the airplane) on pegboard that I had installed on every wall in my shop. made it easy to go to the , for instance empennage wall and find the necessary parts. Gets frustrating wasting time digging thru boxes for the gizmo. Good luck Bruce N199CL

Kitfox Pilot
04-22-2020, 04:17 AM
Thanks Bruce that was a good plan.

Kitfox Pilot
04-22-2020, 06:53 PM
Went as far as I could go on the tail till I get some back ordered parts so I switched to the fuselage. Do you notice anything wrong with pic #1? I was so happy when I got it pressed together and then went to drill and rivet the pin holder sleeve and it wasn't on there. Ha ha. I'm sure it wont be the last redo.
I was glad to get the dreaded right hand control pivot together, I have read about the troubles doing it and it was tough but its in and its a good feeling..

Kitfox Pilot
04-23-2020, 04:05 PM
Rained most of the day today so I got to work all afternoon on the plane. Sure don't have much to show for it. Reamed on the fuselage and finished the control sticks apparatus and mounted. Now I have to take it off and redo due to binding.

jiott
04-23-2020, 10:11 PM
Binding on the control sticks usuall comes from two areas-the right hand mounting block and/or the left hand plastic mounting block. The RH block may need to be shimmed with one or two thin washers where the block contacts the welded tabs on the airframe; those tabs are frequently not all on the same level plane. The plastic block is the more common problem; as the bolts are tightened the block distorts and binds much more than you would think. Go slow, but you may need to open up the large hole a surprising amount. Also go easy and don't over-tighten the bolts.

airlina
04-24-2020, 02:14 AM
This is just preparing you for when you install your rudder pedals! Bruce N199CL

jiott
04-24-2020, 10:31 AM
Oh yes, rudder pedals! Make sure they rotate nice and free before permanent installation. I have a sticky one on copilot side that has enough friction drag so that the return spring does not always return it. It has bugged me for years and there is no way to take the assembly out and rework it without a major amount of work. What happens is not a problem or dangerous, that cable just goes slack and lays on the bottom of the fuselage. It never jumps off the pulleys because of the keepers that are there (thank goodness) so it is not noticable, but it bugs me anyway. So heads up!

Kitfox Pilot
04-24-2020, 07:11 PM
Binding on the control sticks usuall comes from two areas-the right hand mounting block and/or the left hand plastic mounting block. The RH block may need to be shimmed with one or two thin washers where the block contacts the welded tabs on the airframe; those tabs are frequently not all on the same level plane. The plastic block is the more common problem; as the bolts are tightened the block distorts and binds much more than you would think. Go slow, but you may need to open up the large hole a surprising amount. Also go easy and don't over-tighten the bolts.


Ok I got it all shimmed/leveled up and a little sanding and all is good now. I got the hangers in going back to the elevator but all the ball joint connectors are on back order so I can't do anything on that. I will start on the flap/aileron assembly next looks like. Thank for the info.
Number one son was off work today so I got him in on a little build time this evening. Number two son has helped me several times but is camera shy so we avoid that. My wife is out almost anytime I am out there in the shop so its been good family time so far.

jiott
04-24-2020, 08:33 PM
I strongly recommend putting one of the round inspection covers on the belly as close as possible to that elevator pushrod hanger. It makes it super easy to inspect and lube the two rod ends during your yearly annual. You won't need to remove the cargo bag and floor to get access to those lube points. It really speeds things up.

Kitfox Pilot
04-25-2020, 06:22 AM
If I don't remember to do that when I get to that point in my build, please remind me.:D

efwd
04-25-2020, 09:53 AM
You said in your first post that you were covering with Oratex. You need not fear a forgotten panel. They can be put on easily, years later if you want.
I seem to experience a lot of things as Jim has. I have a sticky Right copilot pedal as well. It seems to happen intermittently in mine.

Kitfox Pilot
04-25-2020, 10:41 AM
Thats good to know Eddie that we can add inspection holes later. Thanks

Kitfox Pilot
04-25-2020, 02:10 PM
Give me all things to do before I drill and screw down the floorboards. We got them all fitted and ground the weld placement on the bottom of the rudder pedal board. Is there anything else to do before I line them up and drill? Do they look ok as they lay?

Delta Whisky
04-25-2020, 03:03 PM
Harlan - they look correct to me. BTW - If I remember correctly, I ended up epoxying one or two fender washers under the front panels in order to maintain a flat plane for the rudder pedals mounts. Also (more is coming back to me now), I purchased the prefab kit that included the mounting brackets for the brake pedals. If you did the same, I recommend that you verify the rudder mounting hardware against the templates that came in your manual. One of mine was manufactured incorrectly and caused a bit of an issue when drilling for one of the pedal brackets.

Kitfox Pilot
04-25-2020, 03:54 PM
At what point did you varnish the floor? Did you wait till all the holes were drilled for the rudder pedals also?

Delta Whisky
04-25-2020, 04:56 PM
I waited. Mostly because I like to seal the inside of the holes. I'm not sure it makes a huge difference.

Kitfox Pilot
04-27-2020, 09:56 AM
Question about floor attach point gaps. What did you do with these? Probably 3/16 gaps on 4 of them. Did you glue washers on or bend tabs up? I thought at first it must be welds but the wood sets down good on the pipe when pressed down.

jiott
04-27-2020, 10:48 AM
I did a combination of two things: I bent some of the tabs up as far as possible and still keeping them relatively flat; then I threw away the self-tapping screws and got some similar size machine screws and some Tinnerman clip-on nuts to go on the tabs. No worries about stripped threads and the tinnerman nuts acted as a thin washer to take up some of the excess space.

Kitfox Pilot
04-27-2020, 11:00 AM
I think that would be a better way to screw it down. Thanks

airlina
04-27-2020, 02:59 PM
Harlan, I found that over time and after many condition inspections, using self tapping screws into those metal tabs is a losing proposition, as they always strip after repeated use. Take the time now to either do as Jim mentions in his post or install nutserts (thats what I ended up doing eventually) or rivnuts and use machine screws (AN 526) to save you the aggravation down the road. There are several areas during the build that this can be accomplished. Bruce N199CL

jrevens
04-27-2020, 08:17 PM
I used nutserts (Tric-Nuts) also, and glued plywood spacers to the bottom of the floorboards. You can get nice plywood in various thicknesses at a hobby store.

jiott
04-27-2020, 08:20 PM
I also used Tinnerman nuts on the weld tabs back at the tail access covers.

PapuaPilot
04-28-2020, 06:19 AM
I started with AN3 bolts and self locking nuts and they were a pain to install when you were reaching down there blind. After a couple times of removing them I put Tinnerman nuts on the tabs and continued using the AN3 bolts, which are much easier to remove than the AN525 screws. FYI I don't remove the cargo floor for inspections, I just collapse the baggage sack on top of it.

Last year I added 4 D rings and a cargo net (Amazon). I put the D rings on the floor with these bolts.

alexM
04-29-2020, 09:45 PM
I also used Tinnerman nuts on the weld tabs back at the tail access covers.
I'm so glad I'm looking in other people's build threads before I get started. I read through the builders tips section and didn't find gold like this (it's good, don't get me wrong and a great resource)

I bought a project that has been rolled back a ways. In going through the parts I found some small plywood shims that I later recognized as being the size of the fuselage tabs. Later still I found evidence of them being de-bonded from the bottom side of the floor boards. The shims are of varying thickness and I wasn't looking forward to figuring out where each one must have come from.

The last several posts clear up everything about what the previous builder did and what different paths others have taken. Tinnerman nuts are a forehead slapping obvious choice. In my life I have seen too many rivnuts spin to trust them, so they are my absolute last choice.

Carry on!

Kitfox Pilot
04-30-2020, 10:49 AM
I'm so glad I'm looking in other people's build threads before I get started. I read through the builders tips section and didn't find gold like this (it's good, don't get me wrong and a great resource)

I bought a project that has been rolled back a ways. In going through the parts I found some small plywood shims that I later recognized as being the size of the fuselage tabs. Later still I found evidence of them being de-bonded from the bottom side of the floor boards. The shims are of varying thickness and I wasn't looking forward to figuring out where each one must have come from.

The last several posts clear up everything about what the previous builder did and what different paths others have taken. Tinnerman nuts are a forehead slapping obvious choice. In my life I have seen too many rivnuts spin to trust them, so they are my absolute last choice.

Carry on!

I agree with you, this is the mega source for Kitfox building Knowledge.

Kitfox Pilot
04-30-2020, 04:12 PM
I got the floor varnished and mounted and have started on the center console. I need to trim about 1/4'' off the side sheets. What do you use if you don't have proper sheet metal equipment? I have right and left tin snips but not sure they would leave a good enough edge.

bumsteer
04-30-2020, 06:03 PM
On the thin aluminum sheets, I've gotten good results with a metal straight edge and a "STURDY" razor knife. The aluminum scores easily and after 10 -15 cuts the piece breaks off nicely. Use a thick straight edge to prevent the blade from jumping up and doing bodily damage. Go easy at first and BE CAREFUL!!

Rick

Frontier Fox
04-30-2020, 08:32 PM
Yep. Good way to cut aluminum bumsteer. That’s the only way to do it unless you have a sheer available.

rv9ralph
04-30-2020, 08:44 PM
Good suggestions. Also, you can use a pneumatic Angle die grinder. When using snips, don't cut on your final line. The snips will distort and mark the aluminum. Cut about 1/8" off line then use the die grinder to work to your final edge....

Practice on scrap!!!

Ralph

jrevens
05-01-2020, 12:31 AM
With a little practice & care you can make a second on-the-line cut (after the first, close to the line) with a good pair of duck-billed shears, then finish with a file &/or 320-400 grit aluminum oxide sand cloth. I’ve found that a Stanley Sure-Form plane (do they still make those?) work surprisingly well to take the edge down to the finish line. A fine-grit belt sander also works well, with care, to finish to the line, followed with file/sanding block. I built an entire all-metal airplane that way, without a big shear. Mostly 2024-T3 Alclad, .016 to .040” thickness. One of the tricks to using hand shears is to carefully stop each individual “bite” before reaching the end of the jaws, then taking another, etc. Typical “aviation shears” have little serrations on the cutting edge which make them unsuitable for a good finish cut. You need a smooth-jawed duckbilled one for nice smooth straight cuts. The other techniques mentioned by others also work. For the thinner stuff a paper cutter will work for small pieces too.

efwd
05-01-2020, 06:05 AM
Not sure what tooling you have but here is what will give you a nice edge. To start with, if you cover with fabric, your edge isn't all that important. I used aviation snips as John described. I used the belt sander to get the edge really strait, not that its a huge problem. It will be straight enough in all likelyhood if you cut on the line. I used an Avery Edge Rolling Tool to bend the edge over slightly. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/averyedgetool.php. You can use it again on the tail close out panels as well as the trailing edge of the stainless steel fire wall where it meets the bottom of the belly. Panels look so much nicer with the bent edge IMHO. I used closed foam on the top console before covering it with fabric. This then allows the side panels, whith the bent edge and fabric covering, to push into the soft material. All this makes the edge appearance basically invisible.

hairy_kiwi
05-01-2020, 11:00 AM
Hey Harlan,

Looking forward to following the build of FarmFox ahead of our own - arriving in the UK in around 10 months.

Great first vlog btw - you've got another follow! Don't sweat the video quality too much. Sure it is nice, but it'll come with time. Keeping it real and relateable is far more valuable to your key audience, who appreciate and care for the fact you're taking the time and effort to share the build experience and any lessons learned.

All the best,
Jim

Kitfox Pilot
05-01-2020, 12:40 PM
Thanks Jim for the kind review.
Eddie, how much did u roll on the top?
Thanks all for the different ways to end up with a good cut. I really appreciate the help.

SomeDay7
05-01-2020, 03:48 PM
Harlan, Thanks for the video.

Delta Whisky
05-01-2020, 06:34 PM
I'll weigh in here with my favorite edge finishing tool: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/scotchdeburrwheel.php?clickkey=4115. https://d29y7fsthxbb26.cloudfront.net/cache/400-400-/catalog/graphics/2/12-00875.jpg The 7A part number is hard enough to remove material pretty darn quick and still leaves a smooth edge. When using either snips or a band saw you can cut close to the line and finish to the line and debur fast. Or, just debur your own work or the myriad of parts that you'll receive with burrs. (No one charges extra for burrs or sharp edges. :cool:) Or, remove stress risers, or round corners or, cut a bolt to length and finish "polish" the cut and fine tune the lead-in thread. I first came across it when building an RV and now I wouldn't want to have a shop without one. (I'm on my third one in 25 years.)

Kitfox Pilot
05-02-2020, 11:00 AM
Harlan, Thanks for the video.

Thank you for watching.

Kitfox Pilot
05-02-2020, 06:25 PM
I got the consol fitted and drilled. I ended up using an old paper cutter board with the big blade to cut the thin aluminum. It worked really well.

My eldest son tried out the pilot seat. He said the same thing I did the first time I got in a kitfox, I need more room around my feet.
Has anyone narrowed up the center console? I am seriously thinking about it since I don't have the adjustable rudder pedals but I have to wait and see what all goes in there.
I'm thinking about running the console wall inside the front tubes , that would give a couple more inches for ones feet while at rest in cruise and for the passengers.
I'm probably just day dreaming...….

airlina
05-03-2020, 01:30 AM
One thing that will help in the foot area is the absolute thinnest lightest shoes you can find to wear . I have a special pair that I call my flying shoes to enhance rudder operation, we have a big controllable rudder that doesn't like stabs with work boots on. Even in the winter here in western NY , i wear my light shoes with a pair of boots that I changed out of once I got the airplane ready to fly. Bruce N199CL

Kitfox Pilot
05-03-2020, 06:17 AM
Bruce that my take on it when I flew at stick and rudder, I don't think I could fly this in my work boots. I wear work books a lot here on the farm. Guess I'll just have to have some flying shoes in the plane.

efwd
05-03-2020, 08:46 AM
I do precisely the same thing. I had bought a pair of shoes that are pretty minimalist in material and were very comfortable. I have made them my flying shoes and they remain in the hangar. I bought a second pair to wear everywhere else.

jrevens
05-03-2020, 03:30 PM
I do the same as Bruce & Eddie. I'd even fly barefoot if I wanted to. I had a friend who used to fly his Skybolt with cowboy boots... man, I couldn't live like that!

Kitfox Pilot
05-03-2020, 05:00 PM
Does the vertical stabilizer have a twist in it from the factory? I have had 3 people comment while looking at my build that the stabilizer was pointing left while looking at it from the front. It is just the top half.
I noticed it the first day but had not asked you guys about it.
I took pics of it the best I could to get the amount its off.
If it's not suppose to be that way I can straighten it pretty easy but I didn't want to if its built in for a reason?
I ran a string on it to the front and it points 4'' off center on the front of the wing attach big pipe.

rv9ralph
05-03-2020, 05:17 PM
From Eddie: I had bought a pair of shoes that are pretty minimalist in material and were very comfortable. I have made them my flying shoes and they remain in the hanga

In the November 2019 edition of Sport Aviation, an article in Budd Davisson's column, addressed the proper shoes for flying. He noted that most athletic type of shoes have sharp edges on the soles and heel. He recommended using the bench grinder to reshape the edges of the soles to make them fit in the cockpit and not catch on things. Driving shoes have rounded heels and soles. It is worth a read if you still have that edition or can access the archives online.

Ralph

Kitfox Pilot
05-05-2020, 07:06 PM
Its been as fun as everyone said it would be so far. I clamped it all down on the plane and had it all working good but when the bolts go in will be the true story.
Thanks for all the advice I've been reading on the rudder pedals.

Kitfox Pilot
05-06-2020, 08:00 PM
..... when the rudder pedals are done and work free.

aviator79
05-07-2020, 06:26 AM
Great progress Harlan! Looking good.

SomeDay7
05-07-2020, 07:34 AM
Thanks Harlan. Didn't see anyone comment on your alignment issue with the vertical stabilizer. I have been reading the build manual I got in 2012 a lot lately. Not sure it says anything about it being tweeked. Videos are great and you are making great progress.

bbs428
05-07-2020, 10:26 AM
Looks great, work smooth. Nice! :D

Kitfox Pilot
05-13-2020, 04:41 PM
We got rained out of the fields today so with no break downs to fix we got back on the plane.
Finished gluing up the speedster tail wood, most of it , I ran out of stiffener plywood and had to order some plywood.
Cut the alum angle that mounts for the inspection doors to attach to but can't mount it till I get the wood finished and the fiber glass filler in between the stabilizer and rudder.

Does anyone remember how long it takes to get rough in parts , autopilot servos, aoa pitot tube hoses , antennas and what ever else that needs to go in before covering? Just trying to stay ahead before I get behind.


Edit. I also discovered the mixing tubes that go on the 50ml twin tubes that fit the glue guns. Wow they work great and it makes it very enjoyable to lay glue. I now have to figure how to refill those little tubes of glue because they are pricy.

Kitfox Pilot
05-13-2020, 04:52 PM
Thanks Harlan. Didn't see anyone comment on your alignment issue with the vertical stabilizer. I have been reading the build manual I got in 2012 a lot lately. Not sure it says anything about it being tweeked. Videos are great and you are making great progress.

It is aligned now. :D

Meyer
05-13-2020, 06:38 PM
I went full G3X, and got it all from Kitfox, mainly to support the mother ship.

I ordered the initial kit - had the GSU 25, OAT and GMU11 magnetometer. It took about 2 weeks. I ordered the rest when I was nearly ready to install. The rest took about 6 weeks.

Garmin does not drop ship, so it has to go through a vendor.

Looks good!!

109JB
05-13-2020, 08:05 PM
I ordered the Garmin stuff for my Kitfox IV rebuild through a local avionics shop. The order included a G5X EFIS, 2 GSA28 servos, a GMC507 autopilot control head, GMU11 magnetometer, and all the connector kits. I ordered on a Monday and got a call from them the following Monday that everything had arrived. Buying through my local avionics shop was cheaper than ordering through Aircraft Spruce.

Kitfox Pilot
05-14-2020, 05:08 PM
I went full G3X, and got it all from Kitfox, mainly to support the mother ship.

I ordered the initial kit - had the GSU 25, OAT and GMU11 magnetometer. It took about 2 weeks. I ordered the rest when I was nearly ready to install. The rest took about 6 weeks.

Garmin does not drop ship, so it has to go through a vendor.

Looks good!!


Scott I have enjoyed following your build pictures and explanations. Thanks

Kitfox Pilot
05-14-2020, 05:13 PM
I ordered the Garmin stuff for my Kitfox IV rebuild through a local avionics shop. The order included a G5X EFIS, 2 GSA28 servos, a GMC507 autopilot control head, GMU11 magnetometer, and all the connector kits. I ordered on a Monday and got a call from them the following Monday that everything had arrived. Buying through my local avionics shop was cheaper than ordering through Aircraft Spruce.

That was some good service time from your dealer. We are about 100 miles from our local radio dealer so its not so local. I do wish we had one closer to talk with.

Pushboy
05-24-2020, 01:13 PM
Really enjoying your build videos - I love the "can do" attitude. I'm curious about the mixing tips. Are you using the stepped ones you can cut to different diameter dispensing holes, or the tapered ones? How many tips do you figure for the whole build -- and are you re-filling the adhesive tubes from the cans? Also are you mixing in any flox?

I'm just asking as this seem to be a huge time saver...



We got rained out of the fields today so with no break downs to fix we got back on the plane.
Finished gluing up the speedster tail wood, most of it , I ran out of stiffener plywood and had to order some plywood.
Cut the alum angle that mounts for the inspection doors to attach to but can't mount it till I get the wood finished and the fiber glass filler in between the stabilizer and rudder.

Does anyone remember how long it takes to get rough in parts , autopilot servos, aoa pitot tube hoses , antennas and what ever else that needs to go in before covering? Just trying to stay ahead before I get behind.


Edit. I also discovered the mixing tubes that go on the 50ml twin tubes that fit the glue guns. Wow they work great and it makes it very enjoyable to lay glue. I now have to figure how to refill those little tubes of glue because they are pricy.

Kitfox Pilot
05-24-2020, 05:36 PM
[QUOTE=Pushboy;91911]Really enjoying your build videos - I love the "can do" attitude. I'm curious about the mixing tips. Are you using the stepped ones you can cut to different diameter dispensing holes, or the tapered ones? How many tips do you figure for the whole build -- and are you re-filling the adhesive tubes from the cans? Also are you mixing in any flox?

I'm just asking as this seem to be a huge time saver...


The tips I'm using are Loctite brand and have a small hole with the steps you can cut larger. I have some off brands coming that are a tenth of the price but they aren't here yet. I'm not done so 25 would be a guess?? I only use them when I have several to glue.

I am refilling the small tubes and I have not ran any flox through the tip. I doubt it would flow.

Kitfox Pilot
05-24-2020, 06:21 PM
I am a little confused on the rudder cables. Reading the book I didnt under stand, does the pilot cables both go to the rudder and the copilots attach at the mid point? Or different than that?

And anything special I need to watch/or do while installing them? Thanks

efwd
05-24-2020, 08:26 PM
You've got it correct.
Be certain all your cables are running appropriately before swagging. I thought mine were but in the end it came to be that they had an overlap that, from my perspective, was blocked from my view by part of the tubing of the airframe. That is how I came to replace my first ruined part in the build.

Kitfox Pilot
05-25-2020, 06:14 AM
You've got it correct.
Be certain all your cables are running appropriately before swagging. I thought mine were but in the end it came to be that they had an overlap that, from my perspective, was blocked from my view by part of the tubing of the airframe. That is how I came to replace my first ruined part in the build.


Thanks, its not as fun the 2nd time I've found. Ha ha

Kitfox Pilot
05-25-2020, 06:41 PM
Had a productive day today. Got the rudder cables in with the help/hinderance of 5 boys from 11 to 15 years old from our church that wanted to ride out on their bikes from town to see the plane and stayed all afternoon. We had a good time but progress slowed but all enjoyed a good rainy day.
We messed up our first swage by letting the cable tail disappear up the piece when we made our first crimp. After that we cut the tails after we made our crimp.
Still have to glue guides in place and trim copilot cables.

I hope the cables are in right, all pedals move the rudder the right way!

efwd
05-25-2020, 07:58 PM
Hmm, interesting to see that first image where you don't have the adjustable rudder pedals. Sure frees up some real-estate down there near the firewall.

jrevens
05-25-2020, 08:10 PM
It sure does, Eddie... that's what I did too.

efwd
05-25-2020, 08:18 PM
See, sometimes tall people do save money.
;)

Kitfox Pilot
05-26-2020, 05:27 AM
See, sometimes tall people do save money.
;)


The downside is we can't have as much padding in our seats! Ha Ha

Kitfox Pilot
05-26-2020, 05:35 AM
It sure does, Eddie... that's what I did too.


John would you have the info on where to get the hinge material that you used on your turtle deck? And why is it called a turtle deck? Thanks Harlan

jrevens
05-26-2020, 10:01 AM
Hi Harlan,

The details & a link to the supplier are posted on “John’s Build” posting #284. You can also buy a kit to do it from Kitfox now.

I’m not sure about the origin of “turtle deck”, but I assume because it’s a covered area, sort of like a turtle shell.

Kitfox Pilot
05-26-2020, 10:13 AM
Thanks John

Kitfox Pilot
05-28-2020, 06:29 AM
Which elt is the best priced when comparing unit and battery replacement costs? I have been looking as some with good prices but when I search batteries they are 150 to 250.
I thought some used reg d batteries but I'm not finding them?

PapuaPilot
05-30-2020, 09:11 AM
The D batteries were on some of the 121.5 ETLs, but not on any 406 ones. Hopefully you are looking at getting a new 406 ELT and not a used 121.5.

Anyways, the Artex 345 ELT has a 6 year battery and the ACK-04 has a 5 year battery; they cost about the same on a yearly basis. Do some research on these two 406 ELTs. If I had a choice I would have gotten the Artex 345, but it wasn't available at the time I built my plane. The Artex is easier to install, can use a shielded cable to connect the remote switch (the Artex uses an unshielded phone cable) and only has one battery (the Artex has 3).

I found the little battery on my ACK remote switch dead at the last condition inspection. This meant the remote was totally unable to test or activate the ELT. This battery was supposed to go 10 years, but it only lasted 5. Not a big deal to replace a battery, but it is extra maintenance. The big disappointment was knowing I could not activate the ELT in an emergency.

bumsteer
05-30-2020, 09:30 AM
Since I just purchased the Artex yesterday, I hope I didn't screw up, but I thought it was the ACK that used 3 batteries??

Rick

PapuaPilot
05-30-2020, 09:35 AM
Since I just purchased the Artex yesterday, I hope I didn't screw up, but I thought it was the ACK that used 3 batteries??

Rick

Yes, that is correct. I have an ACK-04 with the 3 batteries.

Kitfox Pilot
05-30-2020, 09:53 AM
The D batteries were on some of the 121.5 ETLs, but not on any 406 ones. Hopefully you are looking at getting a new 406 ELT and not a used 121.5.

Anyways, the Artex 345 ELT has a 6 year battery and the ACK-04 has a 5 year battery; they cost about the same on a yearly basis. Do some research on these two 406 ELTs. If I had a choice I would have gotten the Artex 345, but it wasn't available at the time I built my plane. The Artex is easier to install, can use a shielded cable to connect the remote switch (the Artex uses an unshielded phone cable) and only has one battery (the Artex has 3).

I found the little battery on my ACK remote switch dead at the last condition inspection. This meant the remote was totally unable to test or activate the ELT. This battery was supposed to go 10 years, but it only lasted 5. Not a big deal to replace a battery, but it is extra maintenance. The big disappointment was knowing I could not activate the ELT in an emergency.\\

Thanks, I will look into theses. I just thought the batteries were a two year deal, and yes everything going on the plane will be new for sure.

jiott
05-30-2020, 10:07 AM
I also have the ACK-04 with the 3 batteries. My remote switch battery also failed at about 5 years, but I was able to catch it right away. They recommend you so a simple self test every 3 months, which I try to do (you don't have to wait until top of the hour to test). It consists of simply pushing the test button on the remote switch and listening and watching for the LED to flash and a couple of beeps to sound. The number of flashes and beeps is a code that tells you if everything is OK or if there is a fault, such as a dead battery. This test is so easy and simple that I try to do it far more often than 3 months. Another recommendation to those of you installing the ACK-04; install those two small little boxes with the remote batteries in an easily accessible area for obvious reasons. I am very happy with the ACK-04, have had it for 7 years and replaced the big main battery once on schedule.

PapuaPilot
05-30-2020, 10:10 AM
\\

Thanks, I will look into theses. I just thought the batteries were a two year deal, and yes everything going on the plane will be new for sure.

Most of the batteries are lithium and have longer lives. The ACK-04 battery in my ELT is $170 at ACS ($34/yr.) and the Artex 345 battery is $$205 ($34/yr.).

Do some research.

Kitfox Pilot
05-30-2020, 10:28 AM
Most of the batteries are lithium and have longer lives. The ACK-04 battery in my ELT is $170 at ACS ($34/yr.) and the Artex 345 battery is $$205 ($34/yr.).

Do some research.

Thanks, I have flown planes for a long time but working on them brings a whole new set of books to study!
The avionics are taking most of my brain power right now and way to much of my pocket book for what I want.

Utah-Jay
06-08-2020, 06:26 PM
All read up to this point. Funny thing is I had subscribed to your YouTube channel build before reading this thread.

Gold luck and keep up the posting

Kitfox Pilot
06-08-2020, 07:35 PM
All read up to this point. Funny thing is I had subscribed to your YouTube channel build before reading this thread.

Gold luck and keep up the posting

Thanks. We should be able to get some night work in soon, almost got the crop in and will be back to normal hours for a couple weeks then wheat harvest for a couple weeks...…
When is your kit coming?

Utah-Jay
06-08-2020, 07:43 PM
Thanks. We should be able to get some night work in soon, almost got the crop in and will be back to normal hours for a couple weeks then wheat harvest for a couple weeks...…
When is your kit coming?

When??

I wish, oh how I wish. I will have to live through others for a while... A long while

Kitfox Pilot
06-09-2020, 05:44 AM
Keep the dream alive , your time will come..

Kitfox Pilot
06-14-2020, 04:00 PM
Working on the stabilizer tips and starting on the door frames. I have the rough balsa tips glued on and ready to start shaping. What did you guys cut the door frames pieces with? I'm not finding real good ways. So far I've used Dremel tool and tin snips to cut the door frame but not real happy with either.
Looking online at John Mcbeans post about how to joint the sections and I guess in the past the frames didn't wrap around the square tubing. Better fit now I'd guess but harder to cut. Looks like it all gets filled at the joints so small mistakes will be covered up...I hope.:)

bbs428
06-14-2020, 06:03 PM
I used a Dremel cut off wheel. Cleaned up the cut with a sanding drum. Super fill the joints and sand.

Kitfox Pilot
06-27-2020, 05:43 PM
Back to work this afternoon from a good wheat harvest. Finished cutting the door frames and glued them in place. Then we finished sanding the horizontal wing tips also. Doors are next.

Desertwndrr
06-27-2020, 11:23 PM
Looks fantastic!

bbs428
06-28-2020, 09:22 AM
Nice work! :D

Kitfox Pilot
07-05-2020, 06:29 PM
Doors are roughed in and hinges are cut. Really glad to have the doors cut and sanded.

Kitfox Pilot
07-20-2020, 06:43 PM
Did you attach the inspection cover to the fiberglass? What length did you cut them off at in the rear? Thanks

jiott
07-20-2020, 09:02 PM
Harlan, yes I attached the tail access covers to the fiberglass at the rear, but first I hysoled a thin strip of aluminum to the inside of the fiberglass flange. This gave the self-tapping screws something more solid to grip.

Kitfox Pilot
07-21-2020, 04:56 AM
Thank you for the tip.

jrevens
07-21-2020, 09:43 AM
Harlan,

I cut those off at the rear so that they overlapped the fiberglass the right amount for edge hole clearance - maybe 1/2”? I used Tinnerman “clip nuts” on the fiberglass for the screws.

Kitfox Pilot
07-21-2020, 10:00 AM
Thanks John ,did you roll the edges on this piece any?

jiott
07-21-2020, 10:38 AM
The top, back, or front edges didn't seem to need any rolling/breaking, but the bottom edges look much nicer with a slight 1/4" or so break.

Kitfox Pilot
07-21-2020, 11:26 AM
Thanks for the pic Jim, that helps a lot.

Delta Whisky
07-21-2020, 01:21 PM
Harlan - regarding the clearance opening(s) in in the elevator rear panel - I can't tell from your picture - but - make sure you are comfortable with the clearance between the moving parts and the panel. The most frequent mistake I made in building two planes (meaning: I'm a slow learner) was the belief that close tolerances are good. Not always true but that is another story. Anyhow, once the elevator was covered and painted I discovered a hard interference between the two. Depends on where you anchor the material of course but in any event, my tolerances needed to be opened up a bit. HTH. Darrel

Kitfox Pilot
07-21-2020, 02:30 PM
Thanks Darrel. I have learned with my short building experience that too close almost always gets redone later. HaHa

jrevens
07-21-2020, 06:11 PM
Thanks John ,did you roll the edges on this piece any?

Yes, similar to Jim's. There are pictures within my thread "John's Build".

rv9ralph
07-21-2020, 07:11 PM
was the belief that close tolerances are good.

It's not the close tolerance that looks good... It is the even clearance. As long as the gaps are consistent (without it being excessive), it will look good.

Ralph

Kitfox Pilot
07-26-2020, 11:32 AM
It's not the close tolerance that looks good... It is the even clearance. As long as the gaps are consistent (without it being excessive), it will look good.

Ralph


That is very true Ralph, thanks.

Kitfox Pilot
08-16-2020, 06:07 PM
I know they won't stay on long but everyone likes it better with the wings on...

Number 1 rib, filler rib and transition ribs are all on the wing and butt rib is on the fuselage. False ribs are on around the strut attach points. Most everything is varnished.
Work is taking a lot of my plane building time this time of year, we oil and chip roads in the summer...Winter will be here before we know it.

Kitfox Pilot
08-27-2020, 05:21 PM
We got the fuel tanks in and started covering them with false ribs last night. A truck came by today and dropped off several boxes labeled Garmin so I have started reading the 928 page downloaded install manual.............. I hope I don't need all these pages to make it work. LOL
Where did you guys source your wire and connectors? I have the Garmin connectors that came with the order is all at this time.

If you will, show me your favorite wiring tools to make the job a little easier. Thanks

Shadowrider
08-27-2020, 06:07 PM
Stein air and aircraft spruce. Seems like I ordered weekly for a couple months. Stein air has a bunch of YouTube videos that are very helpful. I dreaded wiring the most, but enjoyed it the most. Start reading that manual on everything that applies. Helps a ton. Take good notes!

Kitfox Pilot
08-27-2020, 07:39 PM
Stein air and aircraft spruce. Seems like I ordered weekly for a couple months. Stein air has a bunch of YouTube videos that are very helpful. I dreaded wiring the most, but enjoyed it the most. Start reading that manual on everything that applies. Helps a ton. Take good notes!


I've got the dreading part down, I hope the enjoyment will come later......... Haha

PapuaPilot
08-27-2020, 08:09 PM
I've got the dreading part down, I hope the enjoyment will come later......... Haha

Yes it will. On the first flight for sure!

Eric Page
08-27-2020, 10:55 PM
The best prices I could find recently for crimp style D-Sub connector bodies was at Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/cablecableaccessories_dconnectors.html), and that included searching the big name electronic component distributors.

D-Sub back shells come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, depending whether you want shielded or unshielded, plastic or metal, straight or angled. Digi-Key sells the exact part (http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=Assmann%20WSW%20Components%20A-FT) provided with Dynon harnesses and sold in their online store, at considerable savings.

B&C Specialty Products had the best deal on D-Sub crimp sockets in bulk (http://bandc.com/product-category/electrical-supplies/d-sub-audio-connectors/). D-Sub crimp pins were slightly cheaper at Digi-Key (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-deutsch-connectors/M39029-64-369/1506-1070-ND/4840049), but maybe not enough difference to overcome the shipping cost if that's all you're buying.

Don't forget a D-Sub pin insertion/removal tool. Available at B&C Specialty Products (https://bandc.com/product/insertion-extraction-tool-d-sub-pins/) or Digi-Key (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cinch-connectivity-solutions-aim-cambridge/40-9865/367-1097-ND/3830306).

MIL-W-22759/16 Tefzel wire is well-priced at Sky Geek (https://www.skygeek.com/military-specification-mil-w-22759-16-etfe-tefzel-wire.html) for the basic solid colors, but with a 100-ft minimum. For shorter lengths, look to Aircraft Spruce (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/unshieldlwire.php). If you want striped wire to match a factory harness, look at ProWireUSA (https://prowireusa.com/c-32-m22759-16-tefzel-wire.aspx).

Do yourself a favor and buy an Ideal Stripmaster 45-097. It's the King of wire strippers and will save you a lot of frustration over using a cheapo automotive wire stripper. Tefzel insulation is tough stuff and this stripper just works, without nicking wires. Available on Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/Ideal-Industries-Stripmaster-Wire-Stripper/dp/B000RFSWF8/) for a good price new, or on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Ideal+Stripmaster+45-097&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15) for less if you're OK with a pre-owned set.

To crimp D-Sub pins and sockets at reasonable cost, the crimper sold by B&C Specialty Products (https://bandc.com/product/d-sub-machined-pin-crimp-tool/) is a good choice, and Amazon sells the same tool (https://smile.amazon.com/Greenlee-PA1460-D-sub-Indent-Crimpers/dp/B004H96T7I) with different colored handles for $10 less.

For general purpose heat shrink tubing, I'd recommend this Qualtek Q5-3X series at Digi-Key (https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/heat-shrink-tubing/483?k=Qualtek+Q5-3X&k=&pkeyword=Qualtek+Q5-3X&sv=0&sf=0&FV=-5%7C9957%2C7%7C3%2C-8%7C483%2C77%7C204055&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25). It's flame retardant, has a 3:1 shrink ratio and is adhesive-lined to seal out moisture. Dirt cheap in 4-foot lengths.

For wire marking, the clear heat shrink sold by B&C Specialty Products (https://bandc.com/product/clear-heatshrink/) is hard to beat. Read their product description for an idea how to use it.

Eric Page
08-27-2020, 11:08 PM
BTW, here's a pro tip for gaming the system on free shipping at Aircraft Spruce. Develop a list of items you're going to need at some point in your build, both high-cost and low (parts, tools, avionics, etc.), but don't order them all at once. Instead, put them in a Wish List and add them to your cart for purchase one at a time, as needed to get each order over the $350 threshold for free shipping. You can save a lot on shipping over the course of a build by ordering this way.

Kitfox Pilot
08-28-2020, 05:58 AM
Eric, Thanks for taking the time posting this good info!

Kitfox Pilot
09-13-2020, 05:31 PM
We got the leading edge on and am glad to have it on. Lots of glue left the cans on this one.
I was pleased with the way they came out. I tried some tape like the book says to tape them on but it would make the fiberglass warp a little somewhere it seemed so I ended up just using scrap plywood and clamps and Cleco's, this worked good.
Now if I just don't warp them with too much heat when I cover them..

Shadowrider
09-13-2020, 07:47 PM
Looks good! Unfortunately they warp just with heat as the wing expands and cools and contracts. This really bugged us at first, but now you really can even see it.

Make sure to save some scraps to make your wings cuffs with.

Kitfox Pilot
09-13-2020, 07:59 PM
I was guessing the summer heat would make them grow. Did you have any trouble covering them?

Shadowrider
09-13-2020, 08:48 PM
We used Oratex and no problems covering them. Just take your time and go slow so you don’t get air bubbles.

Kitfox Pilot
10-18-2020, 07:53 PM
Planted the runway this week. Just wheat for now. Have a few more trees to remove behind the drill. 1320 is the field length with a 20 ft tall power line on east end which is in front of the tractor hood so I just seeded 1000x60. Will add or subtract as needed in the future.
I never thought I'd have a runway at home 33 years ago when I got my pilots license but I'm getting pretty excited about using it now!

Shadowrider
10-18-2020, 07:57 PM
Oh wow! That's awesome! That is my dream! I would have 500 hours on my plane if I could walk out and go flying.

Kitfox Pilot
10-19-2020, 05:45 AM
That is my hope to fly more. I'm close to 20 miles to my airport now and the older I get the farther that seems to be to take an evening flight.

Geek
10-19-2020, 08:32 AM
Planted the runway this week. ......

https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25812&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1603075483


You win "Having the Right Tool For The Job" contest Harlan!!

Kitfox Pilot
10-19-2020, 09:40 AM
HaHa. It didn't take long to plant....

Delta Whisky
10-19-2020, 05:00 PM
Looking good Harlan - not a bump in sight.

Kitfox Pilot
10-19-2020, 06:20 PM
Looking good Harlan - not a bump in sight.


well....maybe a couple you can't see but its not too bad. I will roll it when the weathers right and try to keep it smooth. thanks

bbs428
10-21-2020, 12:01 PM
Mighty fine machinery you have there! Really top notch results and so smooth... :D

Kitfox Pilot
10-22-2020, 06:03 AM
Thanks, 21 year old tractor and 8 year old drill but I try to keep them in top condition.

Kitfox Pilot
10-27-2020, 04:38 PM
Glad to have the flaperons mounted. Had slight wing movement that I corrected in one hinge on each wing. I could do another pair better now I know what I'm doing but to redo is better than to have it done wrong. HaHa

Special thanks to Darrel and Dustin. I appreciate your help.
Thanks to Susan too. She puts a cleco in most of the holes that I drill.

I guess the next thing is to get the wings back on the plane so I can complete the rigging then disassemble again and start prepping for covering. I order my covering last week. I still have lots to do before it gets here. Harvest is over so I'm hoping to get more time on the plane.

Kitfox Pilot
11-19-2020, 04:51 PM
Doing some Finishing work before cover can go on the wings. Also got the pitot mount installed. Slow stuff going on for sure right now.

Kitfox Pilot
12-01-2020, 06:54 PM
Got the first wing bottom on, sure feels good to see something big for a change! Thanks for all the help guys!

Jerrytex
12-01-2020, 07:04 PM
Looks awesome!

What Pitot Tube Mast did you use?

Kitfox Pilot
12-01-2020, 07:31 PM
I got a Garmin one from Kitfox.

Kitfox Pilot
12-12-2020, 05:40 PM
We got the top put on one wing today. It was more difficult because you have to come out on a line where the bottom half you just trim to fit when done. Nice to see a wing looking like a wing!

DesertFox4
12-12-2020, 07:41 PM
Very nice looking cover job on your wing Harlan. You’ll have a beautiful Kitfox with workmanship like that.

Kitfox Pilot
12-12-2020, 08:08 PM
Thanks Steve. As my friend says about his paint jobs, its like fine art, best viewed from 10 ft. haha

efwd
12-13-2020, 08:13 AM
Yeah Harlan, it looks great at that stage right?. I look forward to, one day, seeing Justin and his brothers planes. They didn't use tapes and or lacing. I bet it looks awesome in person. I didn't have the guts to venture off the beaten path as they did.

Kitfox Pilot
12-13-2020, 12:04 PM
I'm still doing testing on the glue and fabric but it's looking like I will follow their lead on the tapes and lacing since the book says you don't need them on one inch cap strips. They will have several hours on theirs too by the time I fly.

yocum137
01-13-2021, 09:50 PM
It is aligned now. :D

I notice that my vertical stab has this same twist. How’d you straighten yours? Just muscles and perseverance?

Thanks!

Kitfox Pilot
01-14-2021, 06:58 AM
I sent you a PM.

Kitfox Pilot
01-16-2021, 04:02 PM
Started on the fuselage covering today. Just like a tightening pass to finish the bottom up and a little more trimming.

Kitfox Pilot
01-20-2021, 08:39 PM
One side is done, well almost. It was a lot of work but it all came together in the end. Oratex is really stiff stuff when trying to pull/shape it.

jrevens
01-20-2021, 10:41 PM
Yes it is. That sure looks very good Harlan!

Delta Whisky
01-22-2021, 08:18 AM
Nice job Harlan.

tdldedcd
01-26-2021, 10:49 PM
Looking good Harlan!

Shadowrider
01-27-2021, 08:05 AM
Looking good! Spend lots of time shrinking it good now, or when it gets cold you will have lots of loose spots. Cory spend hours going over every square inch. I did not spend as much time and now have gone back going over it and probably spent more time then he did initially.

bbs428
01-28-2021, 08:07 AM
I'm really warming up to the Oratex. Looks real nice!

Kitfox Pilot
02-05-2021, 08:40 PM
Got the rudder done, by far the hardest part so far.
Finished the horizontal stabilizer with no problem.
I was putting the covering you see below on the elevator and it was probably my best work yet if I say so my self.
I went to turn it over and do the other side and Opps, I did the top first instead of the bottom.:mad::o
Let me tell you that you can't pull oratex off of steel after the glue has been set properly. I used 700 degree heat to melt the glue bond to get it off and then acetone and lots of elbow grease to get it cleaned off the metal.
All ready to start again....

efwd
02-06-2021, 12:21 PM
You sure look to have mastered the application around corners. The rudder was my first part I did and you can tell. It flies and I had no intention of having judges look at my plane so....
Nice job Harlan

Kitfox Pilot
02-06-2021, 03:31 PM
Thanks Eddie but mastered is not the word to use at all. Had to cut a few wrinkles but the finish tape covered it well.

jrevens
02-06-2021, 06:02 PM
I think it looks good too, Harlan! It's pretty darn hard to avoid those small wrinkles with Oratex... possible, but hard. I had often thought of cutting my own finish tape at a bias for those tight curves but never tried it.

Kitfox Pilot
02-06-2021, 06:53 PM
Just when I think I've made it those small little wrinkles won't shrink anymore.
Now that I'm about done I have figured out to take the masking tape off after placing the glue and lay new clean tape and pull the covering all the way over the corner to your inch overlap and stretch/tack down back to the new tape.
It won't stick to the new tape and trim lines are much better.
I had been tacking on the flat side pulling over and tacking as I go then the last bit was full of already stretched/wrinkled material that I was putting down for the inch overlap.
Clear as mud I'm sure.
Oh well I hope I can help others like you guys have helped me.

Geek
02-08-2021, 11:21 AM
Oh well I hope I can help others like you guys have helped me.

Harlan your vids on the Oratex covering of your plane have gone a LONG way towards my understanding of the effort and thinking it is possible to do the deed.

Thanks for all the time you have spent doing the videos and the good tips you have provided!!

Geek

Kitfox Pilot
02-08-2021, 08:28 PM
Thanks Geek, it helps to keep me building when it helps others. There are days I say what have I got into!

Kitfox Pilot
02-28-2021, 07:17 PM
Looking good! Spend lots of time shrinking it good now, or when it gets cold you will have lots of loose spots. Cory spend hours going over every square inch. I did not spend as much time and now have gone back going over it and probably spent more time then he did initially.


I am going over everything with the final shrink I hope. Looking good but won't know til next winter I guess.

Kitfox Pilot
02-28-2021, 07:21 PM
I making my can bus wire now and my question is does it matter what order nodes/LRUs are connected on the line at or can I just hook them up in the shortest order as I come to them?
I can't seem to find this answer online.
Thanks for any info.

PapuaPilot
02-28-2021, 07:27 PM
The order doesn't matter. Just pick the shortest run and make sure the ends are properly wired or have the termination connector.

Kitfox Pilot
02-28-2021, 08:07 PM
Thanks Phil, I didn't think it did but this is all new to me.

Kitfox Pilot
03-04-2021, 08:05 PM
Still trying to learn everything before I do it on this wiring. Does this diagram mean the 28 servos and the 507 share the same power wire and 5 amp service?

109JB
03-04-2021, 09:27 PM
Yes it does.

Flybyjim
03-05-2021, 04:38 AM
My drawing showed a 5amp breaker also but talking with the folks at Stein Air they recommend if all three are sharing a breaker to use a 7.5

Kitfox Pilot
03-05-2021, 06:28 PM
That's interesting, I can see why if you use all the trim options your getting close to that 5 amp load.

Geek
03-06-2021, 09:40 AM
My drawing showed a 5amp breaker also but talking with the folks at Stein Air they recommend if all three are sharing a breaker to use a 7.5

Note too that the Garmin drawing shows 22 gauge wire. Going to a 7.5A breaker exceeds the 5A spec for 22 gauge wire so if you went the 7.5A route, you need to bump the wire up to 20 gauge. BUT.....

Looking at the loads page of the Garmin manual (page 2-16), the servos are max rated at 1.8A and the 507 is a rip roaring 0.2A so the max pull is 3.8A. Yeah I see the other number of 2.8A per servo but that spec is used when using auto trim and driving the trim motor directly through the servo. You can't do that with the Kitfox trim motor cause it pulls more amps than the servo can supply. You can look at page 27-10 and see the hook up for trim motors that pull more than 1A.

I understand why Stein would be overly cautious about the breaker (I am actually using Stein for my system and they have been nothing but really great). If someone tried to hook up a high current trim motor and operate it through the servos, then the total current pull to the breaker would be 4.8A (2.8A pitch trim + 1.8A roll (no trim) + 0.2A) and that's too close to the breaker level and the max current rating of the wire. They will error to the side of caution. But in this case I think you are OK with your 5A breaker and 22 gauge wire as long as you don't try to operate the trim motor directly.

Geek

Delta Whisky
03-06-2021, 09:48 AM
For what little it might be worth, I'll add that I don't use 22g wire - for handling and strength issues. E.g., tougher to remove the insulation without nicking at least one strand, tougher to solder and not over solder, etc. It is probably just me (may be age related :o) but I don't get along well with 22g.

109JB
03-06-2021, 09:56 AM
I don't think 20ga wire will fit in the crimp pins for the DB connector, so be careful what you pick for wire.

Kitfox Pilot
03-06-2021, 11:47 AM
I have already used the 22 gauge to wire the 2 autopilot servos so I could finish the covering. I notice the Vp-x I'm using for power only uses 20 gauge for min size wires. It shows 20 gauge for 5 amps. So I'm not running trim through the servos so I will be fine. Thanks Guys.

Kitfox Pilot
03-11-2021, 04:27 PM
Glad to get the covering finished up this evening. I will do the landing gear at some point probably but its so good to be 99% covered!

Mark123
03-11-2021, 04:56 PM
Looking good! Now you can jump fully into your favorite part: Wiring! ;)

SomeDay7
03-11-2021, 08:46 PM
Really looking like a plane now Harlan! Fantastic job.

Shadowrider
03-11-2021, 09:36 PM
Looks great. Love the silver! Of course I may be a little biased.

lbrunet
03-12-2021, 04:18 PM
Project is really looking good. I follow your youtube videos and love everyone. Thanks for the post and videos

Kitfox Pilot
03-12-2021, 05:01 PM
Project is really looking good. I follow your youtube videos and love everyone. Thanks for the post and videos

Thanks for watching, it helps me keep building!

Kitfox Pilot
03-12-2021, 05:34 PM
Followed the directions on Oratex finishing tapes on doing the razor back by removing the glue off the tape and reapplying a 1/4'' glue strip on both sides and shrinking the middle. I would have bet against it when I got it first mounted but it came out fine. Glad to have the finishing tapes done..

Delta Whisky
03-12-2021, 07:39 PM
Looks nice Harlan.

Kitfox Pilot
03-12-2021, 07:45 PM
Thanks Darrel. How's your plane doing?

tdldedcd
03-14-2021, 05:06 AM
The plane is really coming together great. Looking good Harlan!

Kitfox Pilot
03-14-2021, 06:47 AM
Thanks for the encouragement Todd!

Delta Whisky
03-14-2021, 02:50 PM
Thanks Darrel. How's your plane doing?

We're getting alone fine. Took the first, fairly long cross county to upstate New York two days ago. With that under my belt, I'm seriously considering Sun-n-Fun. Also scouring the charts for fly-out locations in VA, WV and PA. Any and all recommendations will be appreciated.

airlina
03-15-2021, 03:15 AM
Darrell, Don't know if they will have it this year but Sentimental Journey in Lock Haven, Pa. is always fun to check out in early June. Its a multi day, low key,vintage Piper fly in and even though with my Kitfox I am the red headed stepchild , all are welcome and there are usually a few of us Kitfoxes there. Tent camping under the wing is allowed and the Piper museum on the field is a must see. Bruce N199CL

Delta Whisky
03-15-2021, 03:24 PM
Bruce - thanks for a great input. I've read about the museum for years and this is a good chance to see it. I found their website and it appears, as of now, to be on. I'm penciling it in. We can be red headed stepchild cousins!

Kitfox Pilot
03-17-2021, 11:06 AM
I clear coated the bottom of the fuselage to seal it against exhaust staining and WOW does that make the oratex pop!
I used 7 oz of clear, makes me want to do the whole plane....but I probably won't.

Shadowrider
03-17-2021, 11:35 AM
Looks good! That should help with the exhaust stains. Unfortunately the stains do come up the side with the prop wash/slip stream. Gear legs get stained also.

jiott
03-17-2021, 12:10 PM
Harlan, just curious why the Oratex system does not put finish tapes over all the places where the fabric contacts underlying structure, tubing, ribs, etc. Polyfiber does do this.

Kitfox Pilot
03-17-2021, 01:29 PM
Its up to the builder to or not to some do, I chose not to. Mine are all glued so shouldn't be any wear.

Kitfox Pilot
03-17-2021, 01:31 PM
Looks good! That should help with the exhaust stains. Unfortunately the stains do come up the side with the prop wash/slip stream. Gear legs get stained also.

Yes I knew it would but I'm wanting to make sure my tightening job is good before I do any more and I will tone down the shine if I put it on the side.

Shadowrider
03-17-2021, 01:58 PM
Oratex says if it touches you glue it. Only places you run finishing tape are on seams of two sections of fabrics. Even there you have the option if the overlap is big enough. Oratex stresses not to follow anything prior or "other" manufacturers instructions as their system are completely different. If you want to add finishing tapes for looks you can but it is not needed.

alexM
03-17-2021, 05:03 PM
I think the most amusing part about Oratex is the way it blows everyone's mind how differently it is applied.

efwd
03-17-2021, 06:30 PM
Of interest to me is how Dustin suffered the exhaust deposit problem. His stained yellow if I recall correctly but my experience has been different. I have a dusting of exhaust as if the engine was coughing up a bit of baby powder. It does deposit at least halfway down the airframe, including the side beneath the pilot door. Mine wipes off nearly effortlessly and no stain. Possibly a different fuel formulation? I use 100LL exclusively.

Eric Page
03-17-2021, 08:52 PM
Are you using Decalin Runup? I'm no chemist, but I presume that stuff binds with the lead and carries it out the exhaust. That might be the powdery deposits you're seeing.

Shadowrider
03-17-2021, 09:34 PM
Oratex told me, and it made sense to me, they think the difference is the turbo. Turbo engines leaves more stains. Because the exhaust gases are much hotter and they burn a little more oil, and the turbine housing also spits of some oxides when hot. They build rust and soot until you get them hot again. All that combined causes more staining than a normally aspirated engine.

efwd
03-18-2021, 01:09 PM
From Decalin Chemicals

"Some white deposits may be seen on the plugs and in the exhaust pipe during use; this is normal with RunUp since the lead in the fuel is being converted to non conductive lead phosphate. When no additive is used, lead oxide is formed. It is lead oxide which causes plugs to misfire due to its partial conductivity shorting out the plug. In addition, lead oxide tends to form in large clumps or clinkers whereas the lead phosphate is crumbly and if any is left behind in the combustion chamber it deposits in even layers."

jrevens
03-18-2021, 01:29 PM
Oratex says if it touches you glue it. Only places you run finishing tape are on seams of two sections of fabrics. Even there you have the option if the overlap is big enough. Oratex stresses not to follow anything prior or "other" manufacturers instructions as their system are completely different. If you want to add finishing tapes for looks you can but it is not needed.

Interesting discussion about the Oratex. I was one of the very first users, and finish tape was definitely “required” at that time. There was also no talk about gluing to anything that it touched. I don’t know if not using it is the position of the company itself now, or if that is strictly the opinion of Lars, the dealer in Alaska. Finish tape is one of those time & experience proven things based on fabric covering systems that don’t necessarily apply with something different like Oratex. There are many things that are done in “approved” ways when building an airplane that are not necessarily “needed”. There is also advantage in selling a product if you can make it quicker and easier to use & install. It will probably take many years of field experience to determine with certainty that there is no need to copy what has been the recognized standard with other cloth covering systems, but that’s just my opinion.

Shadowrider
03-18-2021, 09:11 PM
John, I think there where users years before you using oratex. I would not recommend installing polyfiber after reading the oratex manual, and I would not recommend installing oratex after reading the polyfiber manual. I went off of the opinions of those that have installed it and had experience with the product and not first time users.

jrevens
03-18-2021, 10:46 PM
Of course there were, Dustin. I was referring to Kitfoxes, and those on this forum, when I said I was ONE of the first, as I've commented before. I bought my Oratex stuff and started early in 2014. For the record, I've never said that what you've done is wrong - just different from what was told to me when I started, and if I've come across that way I apologize. Recommendations from Lars have changed about several things over the years since I started - regarding application of additional glue, or not, on the fabric surface beneath finish tapes, rib lacing was highly encouraged, etc. I'm not certain that all of the recommendations from Lars jive completely with the guys in Germany, but that's just a guess based on past history and conversations I have had with the company... could be wrong. I was just trying to present a little history and what the prevailing "wisdom" was when I started using it... direct from Lars, and the owner of the company from Germany who I spoke with at Oshkosh. I felt the Poly-Fiber manual was helpful in several ways, but of course they are two different animals, and anyone smart enough to build an airplane can probably figure that out pretty quickly. Never did I confuse the two.

Kitfox Pilot
03-26-2021, 05:54 PM
Hopefully it this side up from now on!

yocum137
03-26-2021, 10:19 PM
Very nice! I'm jealous! I'll be there soon enough, I suppose. :D

Kitfox Pilot
03-29-2021, 07:34 AM
I've got the gmu 11 and wingtip lights in one wingtip. Can these share power and ground wires or do I need to run power and ground to each? lights are 2amp, gmu 11 is .5 amp. I assumed the gmu 11 needed separate power but thought I'd ask. I can't find in the garmin book anything about it. thanks

PapuaPilot
03-29-2021, 08:36 AM
You need to keep them separate. The GMU-11 should get power through its own 2 amp circuit breaker. The problem could be that you get interference/noise from the lights.

I don't know if I have the current revision of the manual, but here is a picture of the wiring diagram. Make sure you are using the most current version.

27725

https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/blob:https://teamkitfox.com/2166598e-546d-409c-b60f-d8bbdf1cb535https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/blob:https://teamkitfox.com/3f69b818-7e41-4113-907e-e10f3d2591dd

Kitfox Pilot
03-29-2021, 10:10 AM
Thank you very much!

Kitfox Pilot
04-07-2021, 05:01 PM
I bought these 20 amp switches to use on my panel and they were advertised 3/4'' hole.
I was ready to mount some today and I drilled a 3/4'' test hole and it wouldn't fit, 13/16'' is what they measure.
Is this unusual or normal mounting hole? I guess I'm just lucky..
My rotabroach hole cutters go up to 3/4'' and the next step is 44dollars to get to the 13/16 because the pilot hole is bigger and you have to buy the pilot too.
So if anybody knows for sure where to get 3/4 round switches I would appreciate the listing.
I'm not sure is a 13/16 drill bit will up size the holes acceptably. Any ideas welcome. Thanks


I know I should just order the tool.....

Delta Whisky
04-07-2021, 05:22 PM
Unibit #4 might do the 13/16" trick for you if you can't find switches the desired size.

Kitfox Pilot
04-07-2021, 05:55 PM
I've never used step drills do they drill better than large drill bits? The blair rotabroach you told me about do the cleanest holes I've seen.

Delta Whisky
04-07-2021, 06:35 PM
In this application I'd sure use one if smaller switches aren't available. We are talking about your favorite instrument panel so I'd practice on a scrap piece. The only problem I've had is accidentally moving the center of the hole as the bit goes thru each step getting to the final size. If it is critical I center with a smaller size on the drill press table and clamp in place before final drilling. You only have to move one step so it shouldn't be an issue but a little work in a scrap piece will tell you everything.

Eric Page
04-07-2021, 06:52 PM
3/4" is 19.05mm. I couldn't find any rocker switches with exactly that hole size, but here are 11 choices (https://www.digikey.com/short/pw70rp99) that use 18mm and 18.2mm holes. All are secured with a back-side nut, so the difference in hole size shouldn't be critical. If you have a row of switches, just use a straight edge to line them up as you tighten each nut.

The E-Switch RR3130 Series look like a good match for what you have, but with slightly smaller wire lugs. They use a small alignment keyway that has a 1.1mm radius, so the fit should actually be really close. Click the little PDF document symbol just to the left of the photos to see the datasheet.

Kitfox Pilot
04-07-2021, 07:22 PM
Thanks Eric, looks like they have a nice selection.

Kitfox Pilot
04-10-2021, 07:15 PM
Wings went on last week and I got a couple boxes this week! Freight was 895! Wow.
Prop is on the way and I'm all paid up on this build I think. Only thing left to buy is the miscellaneous stuff....you know the stuff that just keeps coming up. HaHa

lbrunet
04-13-2021, 04:22 PM
I have been watching your youtube channel from the beginning. Really enjoy it. What engine will you go with. I don't remember if you mentioned it before.

Shadowrider
04-13-2021, 04:33 PM
Looking good! Now you are about to the fun part.

Kitfox Pilot
04-13-2021, 06:03 PM
Dustin, I'm hoping it gets fun. haha

Lawrence, I will be using a 915, thanks for watching.

yocum137
04-26-2021, 09:40 AM
Wow Harlan! You're really cooking! Looks great and I'm jealous. :D

Kitfox Pilot
04-26-2021, 07:50 PM
Had a box in the shop when I got in this evening. Opened it up and was surprised to see the interior. It wasn't due for another month or so. Maybe things are getting more back to normal from this covid deal. I just had to put the seat pan in and sit in those comfy seats!

Geek
04-27-2021, 03:40 PM
Question me an answer Harlan..... When you did your Laker leading edge, how many Hysol cartridges did you use to fasten it? I am thinking the gun is a better means to do that step and want to start getting stuff together. Did you use the 50ml cartridges?

Thanks

Gary

Kitfox Pilot
04-27-2021, 05:19 PM
I didn't use the 50 ml for the leading edge.
I used the cans that came with the build.
I mixed and dispensed out of 60ml syringes from amazon.
I really don't remember the amount at this time.
It seems to me the 50 ml twin tubes are a more runny consistence than the big cans were and a stiff mix works better for the leading edge IMO.

Geek
04-28-2021, 08:38 AM
Thanks Harlan. Good to know about the consistency of the 50ml tubes. Appreciate the info for my planning

Gary

Kitfox Pilot
04-28-2021, 07:46 PM
I like the firewall all pre drilled! Saves lots of drilling in stainless.

Delta Whisky
04-29-2021, 04:23 PM
What?? Missing the fun of drilling in stainless? How can that be?

Kitfox Pilot
04-29-2021, 06:54 PM
HaHa, I really hate missing out on that Darrel especially with a hand drill.

yocum137
05-01-2021, 01:52 PM
Hey Harlan,

How long was the lead time on your Oratex order? I’m just looking ahead and the number of “todo” pages in my book is getting thinner and thinner.

Thanks!
Dan

Kitfox Pilot
05-01-2021, 03:59 PM
Dan I believe they told me 6 weeks but it took 4.
Good feeling when the todo list shortens up! Harlan

yocum137
05-01-2021, 05:18 PM
Thank you, sir! 👍🏻👍🏻

Kitfox Pilot
05-02-2021, 07:09 PM
Next page in the manual says mount the engine!

Kitfox Pilot
05-08-2021, 07:03 PM
Thanks to all who gave advice its really appreciated.
I will change out the 90 in the second photo to a straight fitting and finish the hookup and tie things down to finish.

Kitfox Pilot
05-19-2021, 05:53 AM
Last Friday was the end of 36 years of public service. I retired from being Highway Commissioner for 36 years, started when I was 22 years of age. I have enjoyed maintaining roads and for the most part dealing with the public, most people are still good no matter what the news shows. I look forward to continuing farming and working on/flying a Kitfox as long as the Lord allows.

Now on the plane, we hung the engine and it didn't tip over forward, this is a good thing? Haha