John's Build

[Cherrybark]

John, could you describe the slotted stick and how you formed the edges. I assume you rolled the edges 180 degrees but I can't picture the process or what the stick would look like.

[jrevens]

The edges aren't rolled 180 deg., Carl. They've just got a little bit of bend towards the surface of the skin in them. I just take a piece of wood - hardwood is good, but pine might work, depending on the thickness and type of metal you are trying to bend - maybe something like 3/4" x 3/4" x 6" or so for this particular job. I saw a thin slot in the face of one end to a depth of maybe 1/4" or 3/8" ( I only wanted to put a little bent "lip" all around the panels to get a little better/tighter fit with the surface of the airframe). I slightly round & smooth the edges of the slot, and it should be a loose fit with the thickness of the metal. Sometimes the width of a hacksaw blade is sufficient and sometimes a little wider might be needed. Put the edge of the metal in the slot and draw the stick along the edge while simultaneously applying a slight amount of "bend" to form the metal. Sometimes a little bit of lubricant, like maybe candle wax helps. You just go over it like that, maybe multiple times (a little bit of bend at a time) until it's what you want. You can go right around corners if the radius isn't too small. Smoothing the edges of the metal first with a file &/or 320 or 400 grit sandcloth is a good idea. It's just a poor man's edge-rolling tool. Practice on a piece of scrap first.

[N213RV]

Cleaveland Tool also makes a nice tool for this. I used it on every aluminum skin on my RV-4 and RV-10. If you know anyone building an RV, maybe they have one you can borrow.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/mobile.../#.WO4P74FMGaM

[Cherrybark]

YouTube has a demonstration of the edge rolling tool Mike posted. Shows the slight edge bend that makes aluminum plates match so neatly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbAEuFbFaco

[PapuaPilot]

That is a handy tool.

Another simple way is to insert the edges of your piece in a sheet metal brake about 3/16" - 1/4" and give it the slightest bend.

[efwd]

Edge rolling tool from AS&S is what I used. Half the price of the above but less precise. One thing about mine that is not ideal is that the thinner aluminum can actually slip a little bit behind the wheel since the wheel is not tight up against the base. If you look very close you can see what is a reverse bend in the opposite direction that is intended. Its very faint and probably wont be evident when paint is applied. If I had know Of John's technique I would have used it but I already owned my tool.
Eddie

[jiott]

I found that the slight edge bend was very necessary on the bottom and bottom rear angle to get a nice fit with the fabric. The front and top edges seemed to mate up with the fabric quite nicely without any bend.

[jrevens]

Thought I'd show where I added a panel to give me easy access to some of the components that I mounted on a shelf on the passenger side. With the door open and the glare shield removed, I should be able to see and service these items easily - capacitor, rectifier/regulator, OV relay, power busses, etc.

[jrevens]

I added some reflective/insulated heat-shield material directly under the muffler on the lower cowl. Very light and it conformed nicely to limited curves. It may or may not be useful to protect the fiberglass in that area, but it seemed a good idea to me.

[Dave S]

John,

I like the access panel. I know others have chosen to use screws rather than rivets on the boot cowl - I used rivets per the construction manual so the boot cowl is pretty much permanent.

I might have to add a panel like you have