First, Build a Shed

[Cherrybark]

I considered my 4" edge grinder. But I'm a wild child with that tool and it will buzz through anything that gets in it's way. The Dremel isn't always the right tool for the job, but it's slower to cut and seems like I have more control.

[jiott]

Sorry to hear about your bubble trouble Carl. I agree with AV8r that a jig saw is the worst thing to use on acrylic. Apparently you didn't read the multi-page information sheet that comes with the LP Aero acrylic doors and windows-you should. In there it warns about not using reciprocating saws among other very important tips. A band saw is OK.
Acryic requires kid-glove handling. I created a very small 1" crack on one of my bubble doors by using a standard (non-acrylic) drill bit to slightly enlarge a hole-turning the bit BY HAND if you can believe it. Fortunately the crack didn't run and has been stable for 3 years now, but I keep an eye on it.

[colospace]

I used the Dremel with cutoff wheels to get close, and then used a 3" portable belt sander to finish. Worked well, but the sander was really messy. It's dust collection was negligible.

[Cherrybark]

Because it's all to easy to be misunderstood on forums, I want to be clear that it is absolutely my fault for using the wrong tool, a reciprocating saw, on the acrylic. The thought of using a jig saw with fine tooth plastic blade came from exploring the web. And clearly, the internet doesn't know everything!

Happily, this is a mistake that can be corrected by writing a check. I haven't miss-drilled holes in the fuselage, cut off a finger or anything serious. And I'm very happy with the cuts and fit on the second bubble.

The shipment from LP Aero was beautifully packaged with foam and lots of paper to support and protect the acrylic. However, and I just double checked, there wasn't a multi-page sheet of instructions.

[jiott]

I did the same as Gary-Dremel to get close, then belt sander to get to the line.

Carl, maybe that multi-page instruction set came in the windshield box. Have you checked there?

[Cherrybark]

I haven't open the windshield box but will take a look. Thanks for the tip.

[Dave S]

Hey Carl....never let a little oop..oop deter you! I recall the comment by a good friend of mine who was a manager.....he said he would never hire anyone who hadn't made a mistake because that probably meant they haven't done anything!

Anyway - to confess a bit....my little boo-boo was getting overly enthusiastic about progress on the wing build....... neglected to secure one of the loose spars for the other wing, which curiously started to roll beyond the builders reach and dented itself beyond any hope of salvage when the floor interrupted its trajectory.......like you said - That's what the checkbook is for!

Somewhere in the culture of building and flying there is a concept that there will be deals....so we deal with them.

Looking forward to more reports of progress on your build. Keep the faith

[Esser]

I used a 4" angle grinder with cutoff wheel to cut mine. Worked very well.

A reciprocating jig saw is probably the most dangerous tool on these.

I second using a grinder. I made on the cuts on my wind shield. You can actually get very straight lines with a grinder. I used a 6" because it's what I had handy. I then took an 80 grit sanding block to smooth and profile. If I needed something tighter, it was a 1" dia small sanding drum on a dremel.

You will be amazed at how fast the grinder works. I had my wind shield trimmed, in under 30 minutes and that was after a couple on and offs to check stuff.

[Cherrybark]

The Christmas holidays were a great distraction from building. I did make progress but it was sporadic.

Lots of small jobs including sloshing and installing the fuel tanks, #2 rib and lower false ribs. My biochemist daughter explained why sloshing acetone and gasoline releases a gas and quickly builds pressure but I was too overcome by fumes to remember the details. The #2 ribs and false ribs were fairly simple.

Kitfox does offer an optional banjo fitting for the fuel line. The photo shows how little material had to be removed from the rib so the finger strainer can be cleaned in the future.

Used plenty of Hysol when installing the piece of trailing edge between ribs #1, 2 and 3. Then, when it came time to install the reinforcing flaperon brackets on the ends of those ribs, it took lots of careful work with a Dremel to remove the rock hard epoxy.

[Cherrybark]

I wasn't happy with how the fuel sight guage plates turned out so I picked up some thin stock from a BigBox store and made new ones. Did a great job matching the airfoil shape of the rib and spotting the fuel line holes in just the right position. Used a step drill to size the holes so a single layer of anti-chafe tape could be wrapped around the fuel line. Even painted the plates before installing them.

When it came time to install the plate and fuel line, it dawned on me that future maintenance was going to be a real chore with the solid plate preventing access to the zip ties securing the fuel lines to the tank. So that's why Kitfox sheared the plates! A few minutes with the Dremel and a shot or two from the rattle can and I was back in business. It wasn't until a couple of days later I noticed the lettering runs right across the face of the fuel tube. At some point I'll remove the plate, cut the zip ties and rotate the hose. Already the sheared plate has served its purpose.

All part of the fun of doing the best job one can.