Looks like I get to fly a IV- any tips??

[Az350x]

Was referred to a guy yesterday who has a 582-powered IV that he needs a checkout in. I'm a CFI with tailwheel (and tailwheel instructing) experience, although not recently. Was told I can get current/comfortable next week in the plane before instructing the owner (I'll be flying it with our mutual friend who referred me- he can't do it himself as he's busy and not a CFI). I'm not planning to teach the owner until I know the plane pretty well, but I've been wanting to get back into TW flying, so am excited about this opportunity both to fly TW and to get to know a Kitfox better.

I've flown a lot of TW models- Great Lakes, Citabrias, Super Decathlon, Piper Pacer, Stinson 108, Gull-wing Stinson, Cessna 120, 140, 170, Champ, J-3 Cub, Super Cub- can't think of more offhand. But, this will be my first experience with a Kitfox and also flying behind a 582 (the only Rotax I've flown was the Katana years ago when they came out with a 80-hp 912 and electric CS prop).

So, anybody have any good gouge to share?

Thanks!

[cgruby]

Yeah, just keep the pointy end forward and it'll fly just like a "real" airplane. Probably the biggest problem you'll have is slowing it down on the approach. Remember this thing stalls at 30, so you can't bring it in at 80. You should be rock solid on 50 during the approach. Do that and keep you feet moving once on the ground, and enjoy.

[HighWing]

Tony,
A story. I once used a CFI for biannual flight reviews who flew a lot in Alaska. he loved tail draggers and especially Kitfoxes. He would always ask if he could take it for a while and loved to fly along the runway touching first right wheel then left with a grin on his face. Problem - after every BFR, I had to change the tires. I couldn't convince him that he was not lined up properly to the runway and he would scrub the rubber to the cord on the outer edges of the tires.

The long axis on most airplanes will approximate the outer surface of the cowl. Not on a Model IV. The cowl tapers toward the spinner and if you line up using the cowl surface you are in a slight crab. When I was transitioning, I was advised to put a mark on the windshield that would indicate the center line of the plane. While on the ground, line the airplane up facing a landmark such as a distant tree. Get in the cockpit, wiggle a bit to find the comfortable position, then with a grease pencil or some other lexan compatible marker. - I used a strip of fine line masking tape - put a vertical mark over the tree or other landmark. When on approach while focused on the end of the runway, the marks will help with the line-up.

Another thought, the only horizontal structure within view of the pilot is the forward spar carry through. Kitfoxes are notoriously flown one wing low.

[t j]

Does the friend have experience flying a two stroke powered kitfox? Managing the engine temperatures...EGTs and water temp...requires some techniques different than a four stroke.

The one thing that has fooled many experienced pilots flying a kitfox for the first time is they touch down in a crab due to lining up the side of the engine cowl with the center line. That doesn't work as the cowl is tapered to the nose more than you realize.

On the ramp before you fly, line the airplane up with an object 1/4 mile or more away. Stand behind the plane and sight over the top to be sure it is lined up straight with the object. Now sit in the seat and use a grease pencil to make a short vertical line on the windscreen that lines up with that object. Use that line to line up on the center line when landing.

Do some slow flight and stalls before you land the first time. See where this one stalls on the ASI.

If at all possible find a copy of "How To Fly A Kitfox" by Ed Downs. The material has also been incorporated into the "kitfox Pilot's Guide" available from the factory. Page 7 in the catalog. http://kitfoxaircraft.com/Product_Ca...rtscatalog.pdf

Looks like I typed too slow, doubled down on the landing site line

[Slyfox]

I guess the only thing would be to make sure the tail wheel is operating properly. doesn't unlock with full left or right. this could mean you land with the tail wheel unlocked you will have a ride, a wild ride.

[Az350x]

The guy I'm flying with has been maintaining the airplane and has put some time on it- I'm assuming that means he's familiar with Rotax operation.

These have a locking tailwheel? The Gull-wing Stinson (BIG!) was the only TW I flew previously that had one of those!

Is there a good reference for me to read up on 582 engine management? I've been flying turbines for awhile! (push to go faster, pull back to go slower) I'm kidding some- I have a lot of piston engine background, but very little Rotax...

Thanks for the feedback all!

[Wheels]

My instructor taught me to fly a j-3 cub. Then when I got in the Model IV kit fox with him, he wrecked it while landing. I was technically the PIC, but lets be honest, I just bought it and he said he could fly it. oops.

I have 500+ hours in the rebuilt plane, it AINT NO J-3 CUB!
It flies fast, it lands slow, 47 mph on the nose at touchdown with flaps. Its roll rate is faster than an aerobatic decathlon and you can't learn it in a two or three hours.
go see Paul Leadebrand at Stick N Rudder or plan on getting some "experience."
Just saying.

[Av8r3400]

I'd second Wheels' advise and get yourself some training, first. I've known several experienced tailwheel flyers (and CFIs) who have wrecked Kitfoxes because they didn't know what to expect. These are very quick on the controls planes. That's what makes them fun. However, if you aren't ready for what the plane will do, it will bite you. I like to tell people that a Kitfox will do exactly what you tell it to do, very quickly. If you tell it to do something stupid, it will do something stupid, very quickly. It is a very, very rudder intensive airplane. It sure ain't no Cub or Champ. I've never flown one, but I'm told it's more like a Pitts.

After you get some type training, the next thing you should do without exception is to remove the unlocking cam on the Maul tailwheel. This keeps the tailwheel locked into the rudder cables preventing it from going full swivel. This is the main cause of ground looping these planes. It was recommended to me, and I agree with the advise, that this cam should stay off for at least the first 100 hours of pilot time in the plane.

I have over 500 hours in mine. It still tries to bite on occasion. And yes, I have ground looped it. Luckily, very slowly with no damage. It was due to tailwheel shimmy which unlocked the wheel, coupled with the brake peddle design.

As to flying a Rotax 2-stroke, you also need some training on that, too. I'm far from an expert on these, but what I do know is that you can't treat them like a 4-stroke engine. Cold seizing, shock cooling, proper EGT monitoring and interpreting what the EGTs are telling you is critical to not have the pilot cooling fan quit unexpectedly.