Oz build SS7

[Esser]

I'll take a picture of mine and send it to you tongiht.

[rosslr]

thanks Josh - I should have done likewise, picture worth a thousand words! - I'll do it this afternoon after I dry fit the other edges. Appreciated.

r

[rosslr]

hi all. Well today we dry fitted all the LLE fibreglass edges. My concerns expressed in the post last night no worry me. I have posted a pic below of what I was talking about but I reckon it is inconsequential really.
I am off to work for a week so wont get get much done but will be visiting the factory that makes the Jabiru engines here in Australia. CAMIT. DYOR.

Will be back in a week or so and onto the flapperons.

cheers

ross

[jrevens]

Ross,
I think the LLE should conform tightly to the plastic leading edge material. It is thin & flexible, and can be pulled up tight against it. The shape of the leading edge is very important on an airfoil. I'm not sure if what you're showing is the finished product or not. If it's just in a small section it may not be too big a deal. I don't want to worry you unnecessarily... I wonder what others think?

[rosslr]

Thanks John. The pic shown is against #1 rib and is not pulled in tight. All the others out to #10 rib conform exactly to the shape of the leading edge material. It is just this one where the spar reinforcement brackets add about 5 mm on top and bottom of the spa, therefore the LLE has to take that shape. when pulled down tight it only a little gap. I can't see how this is avoidable and hence, I was not worried to much. Unless I hdone something weird with the #1 rib and tank installation!?

Thanks again.

Ross

[SkyPirate]

I think the camera angle is decieving, at first glance it looks like a gap on the plastic to fiber connection, but agter enlarging the image it looks tight

[jrevens]

Thanks John. The pic shown is against #1 rib and is not pulled in tight. All the others out to #10 rib conform exactly to the shape of the leading edge material. It is just this one where the spar reinforcement brackets add about 5 mm on top and bottom of the spa, therefore the LLE has to take that shape. when pulled down tight it only a little gap. I can't see how this is avoidable and hence, I was not worried to much. Unless I hdone something weird with the #1 rib and tank installation!?

Thanks again.

Ross

I think you're right, Ross.

[Esser]

Sorry I never got a picture to you yet. I would just trim the LLE and fill any gaps with super fill after the fact. If the LLE wasn't on you would just have the extruded piece anyway.

[rosslr]

Hi all. Back into it after a week or so away working. And in contrast the majority of posts on this site, we are having another heatwave with plus 40 c temps - hoping for relief and no fires!
Anyway, the LLE are done and I have got the alloy strips for the wing tips drilled and ready. So this morning I started on the wingtips. I have the new style wing tips and was wondering how different the install is from that in the manual. so I looked through the posts here as there doesn't appear to separate instructions. I am a bit confused as the manual refers (as do to posts on this site) to scribe lines on the wing tips. I cannot see any on the ones I have. I am reluctant to cut anything until I am clear what I am doing so any suggestions would be appreciated. Josh, I see you started a thread and asked the exact Q I now have (regarding the end of the front spar protruding to the light attachment moulding) but it wasn't clearly answered as far as I can see. Should I be trimming the spar end to be level with the outboard edge of the #10 rib capstrip or cutting the fibreglass light moulding to fit around the spar??

I have added a couple of photos on the wingtips that show (don't show actually) any scribe marks.
thanks in anticipation.

ross - Also, I visited an interesting engine factory in Bundaberg, Queens'land last Friday and will start a thread on the engine forum for anyone interested called Camit Engines.

cheers

ross

[neville]

The scribe line is very faint sometimes. I had to use a magnifying glass to
see it and then lay masking tape next to it to have a workable line.