Oz build SS7

[DesertFox4]

Thanks for the photos and update Ross. Not boring!
I'm looking forward to covering my fuselage and tail feathers real soon.

[jiott]

When applying the finish tapes to rounded corners on the rudder and elevator, I found that using bias tapes (they do not come in the kit & must be purchased separately) were much easier to use and well worth it. When you stretch them around corners they lay flat no problem. Just remember that they shrink some in width when you stretch them.
It also works great on the concave curve where the vertical fin meets the top of the fuse.

[rosslr]

Hi Jim, yes , on onto it! I got boas tape and some 6" tape earlier on form advice on this forum - maybe yours!? Anyway, I agree that bias tape is magic!

It was more the challenge of brining the sheet of main covering cloth around the curves - I have found that working hard with the iron get a reasonable result. You can see in the pic below of my latest effort on the rudder that now I have it all flat, I plan to MEK the edge, lift it, and trim it to a nice curve ( marked by the pencil - My earlier efforts were a little less neat! Is that the technique you used? Thanks again Jim.

Ross
Mt Beauty
Aust

[Dave S]

Rosslr,

The Poly Fiber book calls for a minimum of 1" (2.54 cm) overlap between the two fabric panels on control surfaces......More is certainly OK, and, I found that if I limited my overlap to 1" (which includes the contact area around the tube) it made for less problems with ironing out the wrinkles on the curved tubes - also made covering the edges with the finishing tape a breeze.

Don't you just love the iron!.....it's a magic tool for this job!

Lookin' good

Sincerely,

Dave S
KF7 Trigear
912ULS Warp Drive
ST Paul, MN

[jiott]

I did not do any mek lifting of the edge after it was glued down. I would glue and wrap it about halfway around. Then mark the excess with pencil and trim to the line with scissors (it really helps eliminate fraying if you first brush on a light coating of the Polytak glue along the pencil line and then trim). After the edge was nicely trimmed, I would then work it down flat with the heat iron and then glue it down. This two step process worked well for me.

[rosslr]

thanks Dave and Jim, I think what you are both saying is what I am learning and refining my technique towards. I am happy with the result I am getting on the rudder. Thanks again.

Ross
Mt Beauty
Aust

[skbenson]

Check out Tom Waid's tropical tuba.com for his solution to the wing placement of his compass remote sensing. Genius!
Regards,
Stan

[rosslr]

Thanks Stan - yes, good solution. After talking with MGL about the installation of the SP6 Compass module, I have designed my own version of Tom's shelf (thanks Tom - only differences are that I am using alloy angle to support the plywood shelf and will use velcro straps to hold the unit in place.) Even with the new algorithm to compute magnetic influences, MGL recommend the install out in the wing away from steel fuselage.

More photos as it progresses.

cheers
Ross
Mt Beauty, Victoria
OZ

[rosslr]

Tail feather finished and top spray coats of Poly brush on - pretty happy with result. Today Gayle was back on deck and we started on the remote compass install in the right wing. While things were drying there, we decided to start covering the left wing. Bottom side done ( as far as initial 250 degree shrink).

cheers

Ross
Mt Beauty, Victoria
OZ

[Pilot4Life]

Looking good Rosslr, Looking Good!

I know you'd mentioned moving the Panel Config a bit...any updated photos of layout?