OK illustrious minds, I need help! I drilled the flaperon drain holes on the topside. Thoughts on correcting this bonehead mistake will be appreciated. I am thinking hysol the holes and then redrilling slightly offset from hinge centerline?
OK illustrious minds, I need help! I drilled the flaperon drain holes on the topside. Thoughts on correcting this bonehead mistake will be appreciated. I am thinking hysol the holes and then redrilling slightly offset from hinge centerline?
Stan Inzer
912 ULS
Dynon Skyview 10"
N599KF
Hi Stan, Here's one idea.....be kind to yourself and consider this might not be much of an issue...I am not sure that the hole in the top would be a problem even if it was left and just continued through the bottom to include both sides so you have a drain hole in addition to the first placed holes. The critical part is the drain being in the right spot horizontally from the flaperon ribs on either side and below/behind the upper slot for the flaperon bearing. A drain hole on the bottom is mandatory, an extra hole on the top above the drain hole is not necessarily bad. If a person is concerned about the topside hole letting any additional moisture in, remember there is a slot about 20X that big on the top to let moisture in where the bearing arm extends out of the flaperon on the topside....the existing slot is the reason for the required drain hole in the first place. A small extra hole on the top.....not a big deal. I don't see how the extra hole in the top would cause any kind of problem; as long as one is added in the right spot on the bottom for drainage. Anyone asking about it could be advised it is simply some extra ventilation added because of the possibility the plane will be used in some really, really moist environments and it needs all the ventilation it can get (certainly a legitimate claim in WA).....or....get really clever and glue a seaplane grommet on the top hole, vented to the rear, to really suck the void in the flaperon dry. Or tell people it is an experimental enhanced drainage system you are working on....what the heck! Trying to plug a hole like this and make it look like it didn't happen is hard. Filler has a pretty good chance of cracking right at the edge of the hole and becoming visible at a later date. By trying to plug the hole, a person could unintentionally create a moisture trap or prevent moisture from flowing across and out. A person might come up with something but it might look like a repair too. Here is my personal confession..... I have two drain holes in the fuselage bottom fabric.....one on each side so they match.....this started out as a single 1/4 inch round hole on the right side/bottom which some have speculated superficially appears to match the diameter of the phillips screwdriver I used in the cockpit......So I measured to put a matching 1/4 inch hole on the other side, glued in a grommet....and if anyone happens to notice and ask.....they are drain holes!....'ya gotta have drain holes! Sometimes camoflage/plan B is less complicated than trying to un-do something like this. Sincerely, Dave S KF7 Trigear - Flying 912ULS Warp Drive St Paul, Minnesota
Last edited by Dave S; 01-12-2013 at 02:34 PM.
Good thinking Dave. Ingenuity comes in all forms.
Dick B
Don't sweat it Stan. Like Dave said it's a small item that will bug you but very few folks will notice.
Who knows. Maybe we all need them.
DesertFox4
Admin.
7 Super Sport912 ULS Tri-gear
In Kanas, drain holes double as Wasp-house access holes.
Consider oversizing the holes and installing a mesh over them.
Roger
Anyone come up with a easier way to remove the glue and open up the drain in the flaperon drain holes?
I tried a dental pick and it worked somewhat but maybe there is an easier way without gouging the inside of the flaperon?
IMG_4009.jpg
Thank you Dave. You have eased my mind and given me a great laugh. Now I am relaxed enough to take my 41 year old son and his family out to dinner this afternoon. It has been a great 5 hours on my SS7 this fine snowy day.
Stan Inzer
912 ULS
Dynon Skyview 10"
N599KF
Thinking!
How to find where the adhesive stops, inside the aileron.
Could this be done? Push a welding rod into the space of the hinge until it stops.
Mark the rod / take a measurement and transfer this to the outer skin.
I remember, I went through the same thing when I was building.
Completed my Classic 4, May 2003. It had std wings. speedster tail.
912 UL Rotax. Sold to a person in Spain.
Completed a Skybolt December 2018
That's a good idea. The skin is really close together in that area. A really thin gauge wire would probably work. Seems like some of this stuff would be notated in the manual before you drill the holes into the glued section......just saying.
Suggestion, if this can be done.
If the structural adhesive is there then there is no water.
Drill where there is no adhesive.
Completed my Classic 4, May 2003. It had std wings. speedster tail.
912 UL Rotax. Sold to a person in Spain.
Completed a Skybolt December 2018