I had a few like that. Just use a dremel tool and make a little notch on the edge below the hole so the tinnerman can slide a little farther up. It will not show at all.
I had a few like that. Just use a dremel tool and make a little notch on the edge below the hole so the tinnerman can slide a little farther up. It will not show at all.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
I had the same problem too. I really didn't want to cut the fabric by using a Dremel tool. I found some tinnerman nuts that were deeper and used them, but I did have to trim off some to make them shorter because they would not insert far enough.
Sounds like most of us have had this happen. Did we miss something in the build manual?
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016
Some great ideas but I think I will go with the rivnuts as I never really liked nutplates.
Yeah I don't think we missed anything in the instructions but something people should be aware of.
------------------
Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
Will Rivnuts hold in that really thin aluminum? Just asking, never used Rivnuts myself.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
I've used them with success on other projects. The biggest issue is they can turn in their hole which can be avoided if you file a small notch in the hole before you pull the rivnut. I'll use a 6-32. I would say they are sturdier than the nut plates.
------------------
Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
Also another thing to think about, nutplates can be really tight with their deformed thread and I have had issues with stripping the philips head on these small screws. Do Rivnuts also have a deformed thread; if not what will keep the screw tight? I really like the Tinnerman nuts because they have some frictional holding power, but are not too tight for small phillips screws. In almost 500 hours I have never had a single screw vibrate loose in my tail access panels. Just my 2 cents worth.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
Sorry, in my previous post I said they were sturdier than nutplates, I meant the tinnerman nuts. The rivnets are similar to the nut plates in which they are deformed at the bottom. At least the ones I have used
------------------
Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
apply green loctite (strongest) before crimping to prevent rotation.
Well bad news about all my pictures. Photobucket who I have been using as a photo sharing service for years decided to pull the rug out without any warning on photo sharing unless I pay $$$. Considering the service has gotten extremely poor over the years and them giving me 0 warning that this was an upcoming change in service I decided not to pay and find another service. So basically it means all my photos off this thread are mostly gone which is extremely unfortunate to anyone looking to use this thread for info. If I could edit that far back into my posts I would try to update the ones that I could.
Edit: You can click on the picture placeholder to be taken to Photobucket if you want to see an old referenced picture.
Sorry everyone!
On the plane side, I built a temporary paint booth in my garage to paint my struts and misc items tomorrow. What's the consensus? Should I hook up my fans for positive pressure or negative?
I like the idea on the loctite Bill
Is there anyway to get more reasonable shipping from ACS? I want to buy $7 worth of rivnuts and they want to charge $15 for a courier service. That small and light of an item would cost $2 with Canada Post...
Last edited by Esser; 06-28-2017 at 06:08 PM.
------------------
Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
Sorry to hear about your photos. Check for a P.M. Josh.
DesertFox4
Admin.
7 Super Sport912 ULS Tri-gear