Esser's Build

[jiott]

I believe you should Hysol the stringer to the backside of the door frame. It will stay in position by itself due to the tension.

The door latch strike plate is not in the kit and you are on your own. I did mine like the factory SLSA- After you have covered and painted the fabric that wraps over the bottom door frame, make a thin aluminum channel that snugly fits over the bottom door frame and clamp and Hysol it on. Make it the full length of the bottom frame and leave it unpainted. It acts as a scuff plate for getting in & out of the cabin and also serves as a strike plate for the door latch. The factory also puts a similar piece of channel over door frame that angles up from the bottom alongside the seat for extra scuff protection. It looks good done this way.

Jim

[AirFox]

Esser,

I think the part number you are looking for is 11152.602. I plan on doing what Jim and the Factory do. Fabricate some aluminum c channel that gets hysoled to the door fram on the bottom and the rear angle of the door frame. Looks pretty good when finished.


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On another subject. Anyone have any idea what this part is. It is powdercoated, but I haven't seen where it goes?

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[jrevens]

I used a rivet & Hysol. For the bottom door frame, I made a "cap" or channel out of thin stainless steel. I think that is what the factory uses. I had a piece of 0.015" shim stock that I used, It's hard to bend that narrow channel without a press brake & the proper tooling, but I got it done with my 4' pan brake. I didn't seem to have the striker plate material either, but Debra sent me a couple. I don't think that I will use it now.

[Esser]

Hey Airfox, I haven't run into that part yet but I will keep my eyes peeled.

Yesterday we decided to put the landing gear on so we could easily pull the plane out of the garage onto the driveway so we can work on it in the sunshine. It took a little longer than I anticipated but it wasn't too bad. We packed the bearings with grease and carefully assembled the spilt rim so that we didnt pinch the inner tube. My 220v compressor is not hooked up in this garage so I roughly put about 5 or 6 psi in the tires.

Next we went to the tail wheel here is my problem. The mounting hole on the fuselage and the hardware supplied is much bigger than the whole on the macto tail wheel. See the picture below, but do I just drill the matco tailwheel to a larger hole? Or do I have the wrong tailwheel.

Any help would be great.


Matco Tailwheel bolt hole and large bolt. Do I just drill this out?


We have wheels! Now it look like we can go places haha.

[kmach]

Hi, I put a Matco tailwheel on my model 5 . I drilled out the hole you pictured to match my tail spring, I have not had any issues in 200 hrs.

[Esser]

Thanks Kevin, will do. You ever fly Edmonton way? Bit of a haul from your neck of the woods but if you are ever in the area let me know. Do you keep your plane in Regina?

[Esser]

So today we put the rudder on to the plane and this is the first time I have had the rudder on at the same time as the elevator. As you can see in the pictures, there is a conflict with the rudder and the elevator. I had not previously touched the rudder stops. No filing has been done. Also, the stop to the right is worse than the stop to the left. The stop to the left is almost passable. It may just be too much when it is covered. Does anybody have any ideas to what I can do to the rudder stops preferably that doesn't involve welding? Let me know your ideas.

Thanks,


Rudder swinging too far to the right.

Full deflection left doesn't seem as bad.

Rudder stops.

Rudder Stops from the top

Rudder cables swaged together. Wish I had some shrink sleeves. I will see what I can put on after. Maybe a heat shrink tape.


Also, I enlarged my tailwheel hole and seems great so far. Thanks for the info Kevin.

[jrevens]

I had the same issue. I like the idea John Pitkin had, where he added bolts & nuts to make the stops adjustable, but my left stop was just right, & I didn't have to cut off any of the material on the fuselage. I just added a small stainless steel shim, riveted & bonded to the stop on the rudder itself. They are now both identical in travel & clearance with the elevator.

[kmach]

Thanks Kevin, will do. You ever fly Edmonton way? Bit of a haul from your neck of the woods but if you are ever in the area let me know. Do you keep your plane in Regina?

Hi,
I haven't been into Alberta yet with the fox, did go to Kindersley flyin breakfast last fall, lots of people from Alberta were at it including Wannafly from Lethbridge in his Model 4 Speedster.
I plan on doing some more of the flyins.Who really knows where I might be headed
I keep my model 5 on my small ranch on Loon Creek, 26 NNE of Regina, field is registered,CLC4 , LOON CREEK AIRFIELD , in the CFS. Small aircraft always welcome.

[kebopa3]

Esser,
Here is the picture John P. posted showing his solution. His text indicates it can be adjusted as needed after covering. It seems to be the simplest solution.


Kebo