Esser's Build

[jiott]

I'm sure laser or some type of etching will look really nice, but I used a Brother P-Touch labelmaker for my panel and have been happy with it and no problems with labels coming loose. About a year or so after I completed my panel, I added a landing light with and without wig-wag (required two switches). It sure was easy to change the label strip and add the new items. The labelmaker has a feature for the black border. Just an option to consider.

[Esser]

It’s funny you posted this Jim, I was looking through the “Show me your Panel” thread looking at options and yours caught my eye as a nicely done self labelled. I still may go that route. I’m meeting someone on Tuesday that thinks he can do what I want.

Yesterday I installed the battery box which actually took me a good couple hours. I found it very hard to counter sink the holes inside the box and the SS strap kitfox supplied was about an inch short so I ended up riveting the back end of the strap to the firewall.

[Esser]

I ran all the brake lines yesterday and finally swaged the rudder cables.

I was never super happy with the friction of the rudder when I attached all three bolts. When two were in it was perfectly smooth but as soon as I put the 3rd bolt in it wasn’t as nice. I played A LOT with it, even tried bending the rudder to get the tabs to line up better because the middle one was slightly out from the other two. After playing with, I got it as close as I could get it. Not as smooth as the elevator but pretty good.

Now that my rudder cables are hooked up, when I press one rudder, the rudder does not push back to the centre position. Is this normal? Or should my goal be to have everything so loose the rudder pedal springs can pull it back to centre. I realize with the engine running it will centre the rudder. Also, before you ask, my pedals are friction free and very smooth.

[jrevens]

I don’t think the springs have enough power to completely center the rudder without any input on the pedals... especially if you have a tailwheel on the ground. They mostly just keep the cables relatively taunt.

[southwind32]

The pictures posted of the brake lines just installed reminded me of something I've been meaning to ask. Do the plastic brake lines and the associated fittings cause any problems over time? They don't look like the strongest tubing, plus plastic tubing usually gets brittle with time. They don't appear to be as sturdy as what's typically used on certified airplane brake systems.

[Dave S]

Brian,

Your question comes back to the same one I had during our build. (I know what kind of stuff I drag my wheels through)

Anyway, one A & P suggested using aluminum tubing on the wheel end of the gear - which I rejected knowing that a person would have to open up the hydraulics when swapping brake pads.

What I ended up with was Aeroquip braided hydraulic hose (3,000 psi) dash 3 size with the aeroquip fittings (which are quite pricey as well as the $$$ mandrel to put them in). These are more resistant to physical damage including heating and allow for separating the caliper without opening the hydraulic system.

I thought a little about heat buildup due to the fact that I have a nose gear craft where the brakes get a real workout taxiing in a stiff crosswind (I know! I know! tailwheel!) - not sure the nylon tubing is as resistant to heat as the aeroquip is.

Also - on the aeroquip fittings, they can be removed with the mandrel and reused on a new piece of hose if the hose is ever to be replaced.

I believe John R had a different type of metallic braided lines which are excellent - maybe he can chime in on what he did.

On the other hand - how many kitfoxes are working just fine withe the nyla flow brake tubing...lots.

[kitfox2009]

Hi guys
My Vixen first flew 1999 and now has 740 hours. Changed the pads at about 700 but I really shouldn`t have. Now really touchy to keep my size 13`s off the brakes when landing (ha ha).
Have had no issue with the plastic lines, although I operate mostly on pavement.
Cheers
Don

[HighWing]

The pictures posted of the brake lines just installed reminded me of something I've been meaning to ask. Do the plastic brake lines and the associated fittings cause any problems over time? They don't look like the strongest tubing, plus plastic tubing usually gets brittle with time. They don't appear to be as sturdy as what's typically used on certified airplane brake systems.

I was thinking of this when first flying my first Model IV. Then I was reassured when helping with the Lancair IV build when their plans called for exactly the same Nylaflow lines. This puppy is close to 100 kts on short final. Then I have always been a bit perplexed when looking at the typical installation on the Grove gear. When building my first IV, I was concerned with the Nylaflow tubing exiting at the termination - bottom - of the gun drilled gear legs. I called Hammerhead (Grove/Hammerhead = Something akin to Avid/Kitfox back in the day) and asked if there wasn't another way. I was told to cross drill the gear leg on the aft side starting between the upper and lower axle mounting holes into the gun drilled channel and tap to accept a Nylaflow fitting then plug the lower exit. This resulted in the brake lines exiting the legs aft of the leg structure and out of harms way. I had absolutely no issues in 900 hours and after the emergency landing (crash) the gear survived undamaged. In other words the drilled hole didn't result in a stress riser causing gear failure at the axle.

Not the best picture, but it does show nothing exposed below the gear in harms way and a hint of the tubing aft of the leg hidden and protected by the leg structure.

[Av8r3400]

I considered doing the same thing, Lowell, but decided that I would use a braided stainless line for durability and leave the gear as designed.


Brake.jpg


These are a pre-made 6" long stainless line from Summit racing.

[Esser]

Ok I don’t know if I am going to explain this properly but my tail wheel won’t lock in both directions all the time. In the first picture you can see the one arm isn’t sitting against the pin properly. On further inspection I noticed the square “bushing” with rounded corners circled in pink is moving relative to the pin. If I line it up in the centre the tail wheel locks in both directions but if I move it, that pin becomes unaligned with the bushing and the tail wheel only locks in one direction.

I’m guessing that bushing is not supposed to move relative to that pin. Is this correct and if so how do I stop it? Just tighten that large nut on top up?