Esser's Build

[Esser]

This was me and Natalie's first idea but we didn't come up with a good solution on how to adjust the bolts once it was covered. Maybe I will try to find John's post and read up on how he did it.

[jiott]

Just keep in mind that the rudder stop position CHANGES as you adjust the rudder hinge rod ends in and out for final clearance with fabric etc. If your rudder stops are fully adjustable after cover like Pitkin's it is no issue, but if not it is very much an issue. Ask me how I know.

Jim

[Esser]

Well, I was in the garage a lot this weekend but it doesn't feel like I got much done.

I was flirting with the idea of rigging up the wings this weekend but will the garage being as small as it is and it pouring rain half the weekend, I only got the strut attachments on. I almost finished putting on my trim actuator but I am missing the links from my prefab kit. I guess when you move, some parts go missing unfortunately. I guess I will end up fabbing them up myself.


My parts were labelled wrong and I had to end up switching the strut attach.


This called for a washer and then a nylon washer. I had no room so I just put in the nylon washer. I am assuming this is OK?


This bracket doesn't make sense to me. What is it for? And is this the correct installation for it?


The drawing called for 4 washers in between the mounting bracked and the rod end but I had room for zero washers as you can see. I am also assuming this is OK to install like this?


Wings ready to go. I am going to take off my gear again so it is easier to level.


This picture didn't turn out and is a little blurry but you can see I suffered a scrape on my spar. This must have happened at least 3 months ago when I was moving. What is everyone's thoughts on this? Is this ok? What do I need to do to fix? It looks like just the surface but I want to be sure.

[jiott]

That bracket on the lower part of the trim actuator strengthens the pivot joint to a greater degree than just the cast housing alone.

I would personally recommend really carefully considering that scrape on your wing spar. The "book" says any ding or scratch more than 0.005" deep is not acceptable. It also depends where the ding is; near the ends of the spar is not quite so critical. In the mid portion of the spar is the worst place because the bending moment stresses are highest there. Remember, those spars are the ONLY thing holding you up in the air.

Jim

[Esser]

I'll see if I can grab a pit gauge from work tomorrow and see the depth. To me it seems like perhaps just the anticorrosion coating is scuffed. I took a better picture for everyone to see.

[HighWing]

I would think the exact location might affect the decision. Example: If it is on the shear web portion and within the bounds of the insert, I think it wouild be fine. If it is on the bottom cap strip and outboard of the insert ???

[Esser]

I will get an accurate measurement tomorrow but it is about 10"-14" from the root on the top of the front spar.

[inzersv]

Esser, I talked to John McBean about the striker plate and he told me that it really doesn't apply to the Super Sport. So I didn't do it. I don't think he has it on his either if I remember right.

[Esser]

Thanks Stan,

I was wondering with the new door frames if it was not necessary...

[HighWing]

I will get an accurate measurement tomorrow but it is about 10"-14" from the root on the top of the front spar.

With the information given plus the photo, if it was my airplane, I would go with the spar. The location of the scuff - proximal to the fuel tank which will be providing some stiffness there, the nature of the scuff mark - doesn't look like a deep scratch that might act as a stress riser - I personally wouldn't have a problem with it. I am not an engineer, but I have seen a lot of the flexing of the wing in flight and with the location of the mark relative to the root end, the wing tank and the lift strut, not a problem to me.