Floorboards and Center Console.

[efwd]

Since were talking about the center console I recommend that the side panels be trimmed back so that the forward edge is even with the vertical tubes of the airframe at the firewall. Mine were not trimmed back and the forward edge was bent slightly into the centerline direction. As a result, I experienced a momentary binding in my rudder pedal as I applied full rudder during a hard forward slip. It was discovered that the slight inward bend of the thin aluminum caught on the pully bolt of the adjustable Rudder pedal pully. Thankfully the aluminum bent in and is flexible enough that the binding gave way. As a result of the deforming of the aluminum I was not able to reproduce the binding as the aluminum was deformed such that it "fixed" itself. I discovered the mishapen panel and the torn fabric during inspection.

[Pushboy]

Hi - do you have a photo of where or how you are advising to terminate the forward part of the console sides?


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[Brandon Petersen]

The side console covers are cut on the CNC to match the shape of the firewall once completed. It is a good practice to add a slight bend at the tubes to "tuck" them to the center to avoid the pedals.
B


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[Sink Rate]

I did a tiny modification here and simply bent the excess around the tube. This way the panel stays in place and out of the way of the pedal and pully. To remove it, just remove the screws and slide it slightly forward to clear the tube. Easy peasy. I also did not put fabric on it. Just a bit of paint; very light.
IMG_20210620_152252.jpgIMG_20210620_152244.jpgPXL_20230928_130753170.jpg

[jrevens]

I did mine similarly but a little different ...

[Pushboy]

I did mine similarly but a little different ...

Hi John — very cool!

Just curious what the middle screw on the bottom flange and on the angle flange screws into? Is it just the wood?

Dave


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[Pushboy]

I did a tiny modification here and simply bent the excess around the tube. This way the panel stays in place and out of the way of the pedal and pully. To remove it, just remove the screws and slide it slightly forward to clear the tube. Easy peasy. I also did not put fabric on it. Just a bit of paint; very light.
IMG_20210620_152252.jpgIMG_20210620_152244.jpgPXL_20230928_130753170.jpg

Hey Thomas — great looking center console, and exactly what I was thinking of doing.
Maybe you can help me though— I’m not much of a metal worker, and I cannot figure out how to do that bend around that tube with the lower flange bent in the opposite direction. I realize I can cut the lower flange back, but i would need to cut that lower flange back by several inches to clear on my small harbour freight brake. It looks to me like you almost have the lower flange and the bend around the tube intersecting?
Any tips on how to achieves this?

Dave.


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[jrevens]

Hi John — very cool!

Just curious what the middle screw on the bottom flange and on the angle flange screws into? Is it just the wood?

Dave


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Dave,

The screws are all machine screws, and they are mated with metal T-nuts that are inserted through the bottom of the wood floor panels, and Tric-Nuts on the metal tabs. I also installed those T-nuts with a little 5 minute epoxy. The center screws give a little support to the floor panels in the middle. The bottom & rear flanges are .063" 2024-T3 extruded angle that I riveted to the thin (.016") side panels.

That's what my floor panels look like underneath the nice carpet panel kit from Kitfox (that I didn't think I would use until I saw some of them!).

BTW, the heel scuff plates are .015" stainless steel.

[Sink Rate]

Hi Dave,
I too have that little brake from Harbor Freight. With enough clamps it works quite well. I also used it for various avionic related shelves and access panels.
Indeed, you need to trim the lip at the bottom a bit to make this work. You just have to trim it back to the first bend to be flush with the front of the tube. Then do the first bend there, the second one last as shown in the picture. Happy building!
IMG_20210620_152015.jpg

[Pushboy]

Hi Dave,
I too have that little brake from Harbor Freight. With enough clamps it works quite well. I also used it for various avionic related shelves and access panels.
Indeed, you need to trim the lip at the bottom a bit to make this work. You just have to trim it back to the first bend to be flush with the front of the tube. Then do the first bend there, the second one last as shown in the picture. Happy building!
IMG_20210620_152015.jpg

Ok -- awesome to know you did it with the same little bender. I'll have another look at that and see if I can figure out that first bend.
Thanks again,

Dave.