Engine Bolts

[Geek]

Mounted the engine the other day and torqued the bolts to spec. Went to install the cotter pins and the hole in the bolt isn't exposed enough to install the key. I would estimate there is only 2/3rds of the hole showing. Love tapping the pin with a hammer just deforms the pin. The install uses two standard AN6 washers - one at the bolt head and one on the nut side. I am thinking if I were to change those to the thin version of the AN6 washer that enough of the hole would open up to install the key. Much cheaper than buying four AN6 bolts. Any good reasons that the washers can't be thins?

Thanks

Gary

[Delta Whisky]

Assuming the washer lays on top of metal no reason the thin can't be used. I'd start with changing out only one of the thicker washers first. BTW - there is usually a range for the torque setting - have you tried varying that within the range?

[Geek]

Assuming the washer lays on top of metal no reason the thin can't be used. I'd start with changing out only one of the thicker washers first. BTW - there is usually a range for the torque setting - have you tried varying that within the range?

Yup I torqued them to the max side of the spec (more of the hole exposed) and it just wasn't there. Both washers butt right up against nice flat metal so in my tiny mind thick versus thin shouldn't make any difference. But I did mention tiny mind so I would have to admit to being wrong previously.

[Brandon Petersen]

Thin washer....


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[Geek]

Thanks Darrel and Brandon. Appreciate the inputs. I'll get a man right on it.

Gary

[patrick.hvac]

How long are your bushings inside the rubber mounts?

[Geek]

How long are your bushings inside the rubber mounts?

Whatever was specified in the instructions. Memory says 1 7/16" but don't take that to the bank. One thin washer on the nut side and torqued to the 190 in/lbs was just what it needed to work.

G