Stabilizer Rib at 34 1/2"

[Cherrybark]

Looking at the picture in the manual, the horizontal stabilizer rib at 34 1/2" should, or might be, flush with one of the metal ribs. My layout of the listed dimensions has the rib 3/4" inboard of the metal rib. The corresponding elevator rib lays neatly along a supporting metal tube.

I realize the manual drawings might not be perfectly up to date. The stated measurements clearly state 34 1/2" and the ribs are nicely spaced. But, with this wonderful resource of builders, it seems silly not to ask. Am I putting too much into the drawing and the 34 1/2" is the correct placement?

Note, the ribs in the photo are just laying loosely near their positions.

[efwd]

I did mine per the instructions. My rib lays about an inch away as yours does. If you don't put it there then It's going to look funny out of line with the elevator rib In My opinion. Non structural, not a problem.
Eddie.

[jiott]

I remember the same dilemma, but can't be exactly sure what I did. My best recollection is that I installed the ribs per the specified dimensions to give nice even spacing and good line-up stabilizer to elevator. Then I believe I glued in some small wood blocks to fill in the gaps between those ribs that were close to a metal rib to give it more stiffness.

Don't forget to add the plywood stiffeners to each rib (not necessary on the ones glued to a metal rib) on both the stab and elevator. I didn't get enough stiffener material with my kit to do this, so had to go by some ply from the hobby shop and make some more. It is very important to do, because when you shrink the fabric (especially on the elevator) it pulls so hard that it slightly bows in the trailing edge tube on the elevator and will try to buckle the unstiffened wood ribs.

[colospace]

My recollection is that anywhere a wooden rib was close to but not against a metal "rib", I bonded a small tab/piece of scrap ply between them to stabilize the wooden rib.
Like Eddie said, you REALLY want to have your stab and elevator ribs aligned with each other or it will really look weird after covering.
I've been enjoying your build posts as it brings back memories (though some what painful when they highlight how long it is taking me). Getting closer all the time though.

[Cherrybark]

Thanks for the quick replies. The measurements give neat, fairly even spacing so I'll follow their layout. The manual mentions taking care to keep the matching stabilizer / elevator pairs lined up for appearances. That's the sort of detail I likely would not have thought of until doing the covering.

The ribs were very close to perfectly size so very little trimming is required.

[TahoeTim]

Like others, I put a horizontal stiffener on that rib. I put it on the tube side so I could glue the stiffener to the tube. I think I had to put a wedge on the elevator rib to line it up perfectly.

I was pretty anal on them and used a t square and 5 ft rule to line the pair of ribs up to each other and perpendicular to the hinge line. I glued a stiffener to every rib that wasn't stuck to a metal brace. As I recall there weren't that many. I know I added a few ounces but I skipped a milkshake the other day.

hang that thing on the fuselage. It will SO much easier...

have you discovered photos of the tape trick to keep glue joints pretty?

[Cherrybark]

Gave me a laugh because I have a 5' rule and long square to mark the layout lines on blue tape as I trim. Hanging it on the fuselage, to have room under the ribs, is a good idea. Not in a big rush and will spend time being accurate and "hopefully" neat.

I've seen the tape pictures and will use a Zip-Loc bag to run the beads. I'm use to working with West System epoxy and fast cures. It's nice that Hysol has a longer work time.

[TahoeTim]

Carl,
I meant the other way with the rule. butt it lengthwise against the stab ribs that are dry and line up the elevator ones perfectly.

So here is my glue technique:

attach stab and elevator to fuselage
clamp the elevator horizontal with two long sticks so it flat
mark the locations with a sharpie
wrap the tube with painters tape approx 3/8 inch from that mark on either side leaving a tail loose so the tape could be peeled easily while the hysol is still wet
set your rib between the tapes and on the mark
trowel on the hysol with a pate knife (the bag wastes too much)
smooth the joint with your finger dipped in solvent
pull tapes and admire perfect glue lines

I rarely mixed a pot of glue specifically for ribs. I had them all prepped and used extra glue from other glue jobs. I seemed to find out that 30 oz of each was a good size batch.

I still have half a can left and only a couple of things left on the fuse.

Ok, you're probably wondering what the heck a pate knife is.

https://www.amazon.com/Norpro-5447-S...rds=pate+knife



I started with popsicle sticks and tongue depressors. These knives are the right size, the right price, and they clean up in a second. They are strong enough to stir your mix. (I had to take a heat gun to my glue to get it soft in Tahoe at 30 degrees. My set time was two days so that was a plus.)

[Cherrybark]

I'll have to admit, a pate knife looks like the perfect tool for stirring and playing with epoxy. Our mail lady is going to wear a path between Amazon and our door.

Thanks for the instruction summary. I also liked John Pitkin's idea to use a piece of cut milk jug to shield the rib while applying epoxy.

The stabilizer and elevator went on the fuselage today.

[efwd]

Keep going Carl! By the time I finish this Hawaii trip, one week of work and Two weeks on my Oshkosh Vacation with the boys you should be caught up to me and I can just read your posts and follow along as you've shed light on a couple things already that I wish I had been enlightened about. Lol
Eddie