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Thread: clear one piece doors

  1. #1
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default clear one piece doors

    HI, I broke the bottom window on a classic model IV. the rivets at the center piece that divide the top and bottom halves of the windows are also loose. (it was my first time with a rivet gun)
    I want to lose the two piece door and make a one piece plexiglass door. I have the new door panels and a drill that I am not afraid to use.

    Who has done this and do you have any pix? I know I have to heat the poly to create the compound curve of the door. I know I need a special plastic bit for the holes so I don't crack the window. And I Know Kitfox sells a cool bubble door that I could buy if I had the money. But, ... I have some time instead.
    Any words of ...

  2. #2
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    If you are using polycarbonate (Lexan) you will not be able to heat it to make a compound curve without distorting it's clarity. Polycarbonate tends to bubble when it gets hot enough to bend.
    If you are using acrylic (Plexyglass) you will need to heat the whole sheet and form it at a temperature of around 350 degrees F. It is usually formed over a buck or by holding/clamping it at the edges and letting it sag with the heat.... good luck.

    Ralph

  3. #3
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    Hi Wheels
    Last winter as a project I removed both solid bottom panels from the doors on my Vixen and replaced them with one piece clear panels from the aviation department at Home Depot.
    Guess I should have kept the specs on the material,sorry. Anyway I was able to form it with a heat gun very carefully. I used self tapping stainless automotive screws and double faced automotive tape for attachment.
    I turned out well. Great visibility.
    I will try for a pic or two next time at the hanger.
    It was a fun project but takes some time and "patience" when compound bending. Don`t rush it!!
    Have fun
    Don

  4. #4
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    Thats the same place I got MY panels.
    I think they are lexan though. I"ll go slow and try the heat gun. I have time, The summer is a good time to fly without doors if things go badly.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    Don't take this as solid advice but I was under the impression that you can cold form lexan if you go slow.

  6. #6
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    I doubt that you can cold form a compound curve.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  7. #7

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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    I just finished both my doors with Polycarbonate. I tried using one piece but I just kept chasing the ripple at the bottom due to the compound curve. I made new door frames out of Aluminum but 4130 would be fine.
    I cut the the poly in half and made an aluminum strip to cover the seam. The 3" Aluminum strip helps to hide the seam and will help to carry the accent stripe from the cowl to the tail.
    Last edited by Lion8; 04-27-2016 at 04:24 PM.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    Find a scrap of lexan and abuse it. I have put it on concrete and hit it with a 12lb sledge hammer Folded it in half and hit the fold with the sledge hammer. I've twisted it in a vice. Etc. The stuff is really TUFF. You can scratch it but it's very difficult to break. I was using about 3/16" stuff cut into one inch strips. It's not a question of breaking the stuff the question is how much strain will the door frame tolerate?

  9. #9
    Senior Member TJay's Avatar
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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    this looks like a good spot to jump in and side track for a bit, For those of you who are making your own doors what are you using Aluminum or 4130 I would assume everyone is using 1/2" material since it seems to be about the cheapest,

  10. #10

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    Default Re: clear one piece doors

    I ordered my 1/2" Alum. tubing from A/S. To get the bends, Use something to fit into each end then filled with Play sand, packed it in real good. Put two pieces of big wood dowels or 1" steel pipe vertically in a vice about an inch apart. Lightly heat the tube where you want to bend then carefully make slight bends to you get the right shape. Where the seams are, I put solid Alum. inserts then welded them. I used s/s screws with nylon washers. Can't torque them down as the poly needs to move. I use 3m Marine 5200 on the screw tips so they won't loosen.

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