Re: Building tips and hints
Wire rope is made from cold drawn strand. In the case of stainless the material's ultimate tensile strength increases from about 73ksi to about 197ksi through the drawing process. Heating the cable anneals it, returning it to it's unworked strength of about 73ksi, for a 63% reduction in strength. If you were using 3/32" stainless 7x19, you'd reduce the strength from 920# to about 341#.
Re: Building tips and hints
Not quite sure if it's worth posting here, but this ruler is super handy for marking out tape locations. It's two inches wide, flexible, transparent, and has the centerline marked. You can just line up the centerline with the seam between the fabric reinforcement tapes, and mark a line down each side.
On one side, there is a line at 1/2 inch in too, so you can mark end ribs and false ribs with only a little more effort. Purchase link.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TR...K3Lxhf1ACLTOLo
Re: Building tips and hints
I used something like that to layout the holes for my rib lacing also, Brian. I cut some strips out of very thin plastic and made my own... worked very well.
Re: Building tips and hints
I bought that very same ruler; very useful thru the whole project.
Re: Building tips and hints
Yes,very handy. I got mine at the sewing store my wife goes to.
Re: Building tips and hints
If you are going to install a 914, don’t install the intake in the cowl to the rear right as far back as you can like the instructions say. The new oil cooler mounting location interferes with the air filter. You will have to fibre glass over the old hole and move it forward about 2.5”. Ask me how I know....
Re: Building tips and hints
This may have been addressed before but, it works so well, I'm going to share. I use 5 and/or 10 cc syringes to make up small quantities of epoxy. I drill out the orifice of the syringe tip to a #40 bit or 1/8". I get the syringes that come individually encased. The case works to store them when not in use. I use one for part A and one for part B and then put them away for re-use.
I draw up the required glue parts in the syringes and then squirt it into a 30 cc medicine cup. These are calibrated by 5 cc increments. These medicine cups are also great for making up small quantities of SuperFil by volume.
Re: Building tips and hints
WARNING:
I just had another example of a terribly inaccurate Rotax analog tachometer. This example was reading very low causing the initial run and first flights for a friend of mine to over-rev the engine. No damage was done, but the tachometer was over 1000 rpm off.
IMO - Do not use a needle tachometer on a (CDI) Rotax engine without confirming that it is accurate.
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Re: Building tips and hints
The short version of this story begins with: I really don't like working in stainless. So, in a call to "Kitfox John" on another subject, I thought to ask him what he recommends for cutting the necessary holes in the firewall. His multi-part answer included reference to something called a Rotabroach. I'll admit that I've never heard of such an animal and thought that there just might be someone else in the hinterlands with my level of knowledge on such matters and I should share this tidbit. I'm telling you, this is one great tool!! I still have a love-hate relationship with stainless but am learning to live with her.